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A THOUSAND AND ONE 
FORMULAS 

The Laboratory Handbook for the Experimenter 

With an Appendix of Useful Tables 



BY 



5IDNLY GLRNSBACK 




FULLY ILLUSTRATED 



EXPERIMENTER PUBLISHING COMPANY, Inc. 

233 FULTON STREET. NEW YORK CITY. N. Y. 



r IRST EDITION 



1920 






COPYRIGHT 1920 BY 

EXPERIMENTER PUBLISHING COMPANY. Inc. 
NEW YORK 



Gift 

Publisher 
AUG . \ »2C 



CHAPTER-INDEX 



Page 
Cements and Glues 5 

Compositions of all kinds 8 

Glass and Glass Working 13 

Inks 20 

Leather Polishes, etc 27 

Metal-Craft 30 

Perfumery, Soaps and Extracts 47 

Photography 51 

Blue-Print and other Papers 56 

Plating 60 

Pyrotechny 67 

Polishes and Stains 76 

Varnishes and Paints 80 

Various Cleaning Formulas 82 

Wood-Craft 83 

Laboratory Hints and Experiments (Chemical) 87 

" " " (Mechanical) 117 

" " " (Electrical) 130 

Miscellaneous Formulas 135 

Appendix and Tables 137 

Index 157 



EXPERIMENTER'S APHORISMS 

In the following, we wish to give to the experimenter 
some hints as to the use of the different ingredients and 
how to work them : 

(1) Always bear in mind that exact working of a 
formula requires ACCURACY, CLEANLINESS, 
PATIENCE, and SKILL. 

(2) Know what you are about, before you start 
to experiment. 

(3) "THE HISTORY OF FAILURES IS THE 
HISTORY OF SUCCESS" goes an old adage, and it 
applies well to the experimenter. 

(4) Many times impure, wrong or deteriorated raw 
materials, spell FAILURE instead of SUCCESS. 

(5) A great many of the chemicals and ingredients 
required, cannot be obtained from drug stores; buy them 
at a reputable supply house. 

(6) BEFORE CONDEMNING A FORMULA, be 
sure the fault does not lie with the manner of handling it, 
or the purity of the ingredients. 

(7) Be sure to mix the materials comprising a cer- 
tain formula in the proper sequence. 

(8) When starting to prepare a mixture, especially 
one containing liquids, ask yourself: "IS THE SPECIFIC 
GRAVITY CORRECT, AS INDICATED BY A HY- 
DROMETER? IS THE TEMPERATURE RIGHT? 
IS THE QUANTITY OR WEIGHT RIGHT?" 

(9) Acids and water, when mixed, should be manip- 
ulated in the proper manner, i. e., THE ACID SHOULD 
BE POURED INTO THE WATER, and not vice versa, 
as the solution is liable to be forcibly ejected from the 
containing vessel and into the mixer's face. 

(10) For any kind of SYSTEMATIC WORK, a 
floating THERMOMETER and HYDROMETER, as well 
as measuring glasses and scales, should always be provided, 
as GUESS-WORK is EXPENSIVE and SOMETIMES 
FATAL. 

(11) Put labels on ALL bottles, boxes and packages 
with FULL INSCRIPTION as to their contents, it will 
avoid troubles and mistakes. 

(12) Remember that a beginner cannot expect to 
make articles AT FIRST, which will compare with regular 
manufactured products. S.G. 



Cements and Glues. 



CEMENTS FOR WORK SHOP. 

Leather Belting Cement. — Take 1 part 
of Common Glue; 1 part of American Isin- 
glass, Place them in a boiler and add 
water sufficient to just cover the whole. 
Let it soak 10 hours, then bring to boiling 
and add pure Tannin until the whole 
becomes ropy or appears like the white of 
egg. Apply it warm. Buff the grain off 
the leather where it is to be cemented, rub 
the joint surfaces together; let it dry for 
a few hours, and it is ready for use. It 
will not need riveting, as the cement is 
nearly of the same nature as the leather 
itself. 

Cementing Brass to Glass. — 16 parts of 
Copal Varnish; 5 parts Drying Oil; 3 parts 
Turpentine; 3 parts Oil of Turpentine; 5 
parts Liquid Glue; 10 parts Stucco. 

Cement for Glass and Porcelain. — 1 part 
of Casein; 6 parts of Sodium Silicate. Dis- 
solve ; apply at once and dry in the air. 

Chemical Cement. — Mix together 5 lb. 
of Resin; 1 lb. of Wax; 1 lb. of Red Ocher; 
2 oz. of Plaster of Paris. Melt the whole 
with moderate heat. 

Cutler s Cement. — 4 parts of Resin; 1 
part of Beeswax; 1 part of Plaster of Paris. 

Electrical Cement. — 5 oz. of Resin; 1 
oz. of Beeswax; 1 oz. of Red Ocher. Dry 
the ocher on a stove. Melt the wax and 
resin together and stir in the powder till 
cold. Best cement to fasten brass on glass 
tubes, etc. 

Iron Cement. — 7 lb. of Iron Borings; 2 
oz. of Sal Ammoniac; 1 oz. of Sulphur; 
Water in sufficient quantity. 

Stone Cement. — 25 parts of Linseed Oil; 
boil with 35 parts of Litharge and 250 parts 
of fine powdered Burned Lime. Use hot. 

Waterproof Cement. — 1 part of Glue ; 1 
part Black Rosin; ]4 part Red Ocher. 
Mixed with least possible quantity of 
Water. 



Cement for Wood. — Melt in an iron 
pan 1 oz. of Resin; 1 oz. of pure Yellow 
Wax, and stir in 1 oz. of Venetian Red. 
Use while hot. When cold it is as hard as 
stone. 



LIQUID GLUE. 

Chloral Hydrat, 250 grams, Gelatin, 400 
grams ; Water, 1 ,000 grams. The solution 
is ready in 48 hours. 



HARD CEMENT. 

A hard cement is made from plaster of 
paris, 6 parts ; 2 parts silex or fine sand and 
2 parts dextrine. Mix with water until 
soft, then work with a knife. 



CEMENT FORMULA. 

Powdered Casein — 4 ozs. 

Powdered Slaked Lime — 5 ozs. 

Powdered Barytes — 20 ozs. 

Mix thoroughly. 

In use pour a little of the powder into 
any convenient vessel, and sufficient water 
to form a stiff paste, and work or stir with 
a small stick until thoroughly mixed. 

Let this mixture stand for 20 minutes be- 
fore using. This is important. The article 
to be mended should be free from all dirt 
and grease before applying the cement, and 
should be perfectly dry. 

For Mending Holes in Pots, Pans, etc.: 
— Fill the hole with the paste, applying to 
both inside and outside surfaces, allow it 
to dry for four hours, then fill the vessel 
with water, place on the fire and let boil, 
pour out the water, wipe dry and let stand 
in the air for two to six hours longer. If 
desired, after the cement is thoroughly 
hardened, the place may be smoothed up 
witli sand paper. For extremely large holes 
place the vessel to be mended on a pica- of 
paper, ami fill hole with the paste from the 
inside. Let the paper remain until the 
cement is thoroughly hardened, then burn 
off. Do not tear off. 



6 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



For Mending Marble, Glass and Bric-a- 
brac: — Apply the paste to both broken sur- 
faces in a thin layer, press closely together 
and allow to harden in the air for six to 
twelve hours. 

Do not omit letting the mixture stand 
for twenty minutes after mixing with wa- 
ter. This is essential for the casein to be- 
come thoroughly dissolved and amalgamated 
with the remaining ingredients. 



GLUE RECIPES. 



Glue to Resist Moisture — One pound 
good flake glue, melted in two quarts of 
skimmed milk. 

Glue-Cement to Resist Moisture — Four 
parts good glue, 4 parts black resin, 1 part 
red ochre; mix with least possible quantity 
of water. 

Marine Glue — One part of India rubber, 
42 parts of mineral naphtha or ocal tar ;heat 
gently, mix and add 20 parts of powdered 
shellac ; pour out on a slab to cool. When 
used, it should be heated to about 250° 
Fahr. 



BAKED SHELLAC FOR CEMENTING 

GLASS TO GLASS, GLASS TO 

METAL AND CHINA. 

In my work as a laboratory assistant I 
have tried many cements, but have found 
that none work as well as ordinary baked 
shellac used as follows : 

Use an ordinary shellac and alcohol mix- 
ture, boil it down over a flame until the 
shellac becomes fairly thick, warm the ar- 
ticles to be mended a little and apply the 
shellac to the parts. Apply pressure to the 
parts by tying with wires or weighting 
them. Put the whole in an oven of con- 
stant temperature and bake for about 
twelve to twenty-four hours. The tempera- 
ture of the oven is /very important; it 
should not exceed 200° F. and by no means 
212°F. Too much heat only chars the 
shellac and makes it bubble up. 



This method of cementing is so effective 
that pieces will break at other places rather 
than at the point. The shellac, once baked 
well, as directed, is proof to most all acids; 
H 2 S0 4 , HC1, HN0 8 , and chromic acid do 
not seem to affect it in any way. It is also 
waterproof. In fact I can find nothing so 
far that will dissolve or soften it. I have 
used an electric sterilizing oven when bak- 
ing the shellac. 

Another good cement, sometimes called 
aquarium cement, is a mixture of litharge 
and glycerine, made into a paste and al- 
lowed to set for two days after applying. 



CEMENT FOR ATTACHING GLASS TO 
METAL. 

Take about 2 ounces of a thick solution 
of glue and mix with it 1 ounce of linseed 
oil varnish and J^ ounce of pure turpen- 
tine. This mixture is next boiled in a cov- 
ered crock and is then ready for use. The 
articles after being cemented should be 
clamped together for several days to allow 
the cement to set properly. 



FORMULA FOR GUM THAT U. S. USES. 

Dissolve 2 ounces of dextrin in 5 ounces 
of water and 1 ounce of acetic acid and 1 
ounce of Spirit of Wine. 



CEMENTING BRASS TO PORCELAIN. 

Use thoroly dry litharge and pure 
glycerine. To avoid trouble see that no 
water is in the glycerine or the litharge 
damp. If the litharge or glycerine contains 
water it should be carefully dried at a low 
temperature and the glycerine heated over 
a slow flame until the water is driven off. 
The litharge and glycerine should then be 
thoroughly mixed, using as little glycerine 
as possible. After this preparation has been 
applied it requires five to seven hours to dry. 



CEMENTS AND GLUES. 



SILICA FILLING CEMENT. 

Pour one gill of Silicate of Soda or Pot- 
ash in a large tumbler (the Silicate of Soda 
or Potash is commercially known as Soluble 
Glass and can be bought at any wholesale 
druggist). 

Now add one gill of Water to the Soluble 
Glass and mix the two liquids with a wood- 
en stick. In another glass tumbler pour 
another gill of Water, to which is added 
one gill of Hydrochloric Acid (called also 
Muriatic Acid). 

Now slowly pour the Muriatic Acid and 
Water into the tumbler containing the 
soluble glass solution and a gelatinous sil- 
ica will be thrown to the bottom of 
the glass, pour off the excess liquid left 
in the glass. Wash the gelatinous silica 
in a little water, allow to dry. When dry 
the silica will be in the form of powder. 
This powder is pure silica. 

Mix the pure silica with soluble glass to 
which no water has been added, until it 
forms a creamy paste. Apply quickly. 
This forms a very hard cement, suitable 
for repairing and filling in holes, cracks, 
seams in marble, stone, and wood, also 
glass and almost any place where a hard 
stone-like cement is needed. 



AN ACID-PROOF CEMENT. 

A cement which is proof against boiling 
acids may be made from India rubber, tal- 
low, lime and red lead. 



The India rubber must be first melted 
by a gentle heat and then 6 to 8 per cent 
by weight of tallow is added to the rubber 
while it is kept well stirred ; next dry slaked 
lime is applied until the fluid mass assumes 
a consistency similar to that of soft paste ; 
lastly, 20 per cent of red lead is added in 
order to make it harden and dry. 



CEMENT FOR CELLULOID. 

Small celluloid articles can be repaired 
with this simple cement. Dissolve one part 
of camphor in forty parts of alcohol and add 
an equal quantity of shellac. The cement 
is applied hot to the parts to be mended and 
the parts are held together until cooled. 



WATERPROOF CEMENT FOR CELLU- 
LOID. 

Celluloid is becoming increasingly popular 
as a material for making a great many 
articles. Broken parts are sometimes ce- 
mented with a form of glue, made by melt- 
ing gelatine in sufficient glacial acetic acid 
to cover it by means of gentle heat, after 
first standing for 24 hours in the cold. TJhis 
cement, while strong, is not waterproof. A 
better cement, and one that will withstand 
the action of water, can be made by dis- 
solving small cuttings of celluloid in acetone 
to the consistency of a thick syrup. After 
applying this solution to the parts that are 
to be united the work must be placed under 
pressure and left for some time until the 
cement is quite hard. 



2* 



Compositions of all kinds. 



COMPOSITION OF ALL KINDS. 

1. Flexible Insulating Mass. — Forty parts 
of Shellac; 40 parts of dry, finely pulver- 
ized Asbestos, Flax Cotton, Wood or 
Paper; 25 parts of Wood Tar; \% part 
of Paraffine. Mix together in a vessel at 
100 to 200 degs. F. 

2. Gutta Percha Composition. — Six parts 
of Gutta Percha; 2 parts of Bone Dust; 
1 part of Pipe Clay. 

3. Insulating Compound. — One part of 
Stockholm Tar; 1 part Resin; 3 parts of 
Gutta Percha. 

4. Composition for Mouldings, Frames, 
Etc. — Twelve parts of Whiting; 6 parts 
of fine sifted Sawdust; lj^ parts of Lin- 
seed Oil Cake. Knead this mass to a paste 
with a strong solution of glue. 

5. Another. — Eight parts of Pulverized 
Litharge; 16 parts of White Lead; 2 parts 
of fine Sawdust; 20 parts of Plaster of 
Paris. Stir these ingredients into 26 parts 
of glue dissolved in sufficient water. 



RECIPES FOR JEWELERS' ENAMELS. 

Melt together the combinations of mate- 
rials as given below to make the various 
colors of enamel. Portions by weight. 

Transparent Red. — Cassius gold purple, 
65 parts; crystal glass, 30 parts; borax, 4 
parts. 

Transparent Blue — Crystal glass, 34 
parts ; borax, 6 parts ; cobalt oxide, 4 parts. 

Dark Blue — Crystal glass, 30 parts ; 
borax, 6 parts; cobalt oxide, 4 parts; bone 
black, 4 parts; arsenic acid, 2 parts. 

Transparent Green — Crystal glass, 80 
parts ; cupric oxide, 4 parts ; borax, 4 parts. 

Dark Green — Crystal glass, 30 parts; 
borax, 8 parts; cupric oxide, 4 parts; bone 
black, 4 parts; arsenic acid, 2 parts. 

Black — Crystal glass, 30 parts; borax, 8 
parts; cupric oxide, 4 parts; ferric oxide, 
3 parts; cobalt oxide, 4 parts, manganic 
oxide, 4 parts. 



White, 1 — Crystal glass, 30 parts; stannic 
oxide, 6 parts; borax, 6 parts; arsenic acid, 
2 parts. 

White, 2 — Crystal glass, 30 parts; sodi- 
um antimonate, 10 parts. The glass used 
for this one must be free from lead. 



A SUBSTITUTE FOR WAX COMPOUND. 

When wax compound has gone up from 
20 to 40 cents a pound it is not easy for the 
"lean-pocketbook experimenter" to encase 
large high frequency coils in the same. Be- 
low is a thoroughly tried out system which 
is guaranteed to work well. 

Thoroly shellac the coil three times 
with orange shellac. Let each coat dry 
well, and when the last one is ready rub 
well with linseed oil, place in a snug box 
and pour a mixture of plaster of paris and 
water (thick) into the box, so that it is 
thoroly encased. When hard it may be 
left in a box or taken out and polished with 
oils and varnishes. This idea, if followed 
out correctly, makes a neat and compact 
and truly invulnerable coil. 



STENCILS FOR CHEMISTRY STUDENTS. 

All students of chemistry, whether they 
attend a residential school or not, have un- 
doubtedly often wished for some form of 
transparent stencil with which they could 
artistically, yet rapidly draw diagrams; and 
especially sectional diagrams of the various 
flasks, test tubes and retorts used in such 
work. 

Such stencils have recently been brought 
out by an English scientific house, and they 
are described herewith. This excellent set 
of stencils, which have been approved and 
permitted to be used by students taking 
chemistry in English schools and colleges, 
have been officially approved by the faculty 
of the University of London and also by 
the Indian Education authorities. 



COMPOSITIONS OF ALL KINDS. 



9 



Undoubtedly, instructors in chemistry in 
high-schools and colleges will be pleased to 
have their students obtain such stencils, as 
the examination papers will then lend them- 
selves to a much quicker perusal by the 
teachers. Moreover, they help the student 
to keep first-class notes in his data book 
and not a mixture of harum-scarum 
sketches, which are often so poorly executed 
that they are absolutely unintelligible when 
referred to at some future date. 



HEKTOGRAPHS. 



What are they, do you ask? The Cen- 
tury Dictionary defines it as follows: "A 
copying process in which the writing or 
drawing to be copied is made on smooth 
paper in aniline ink, and is then pressed 
upon a slab coated with gelatin, to which a 
part of the ink is thus transferred, and from 
which a number of duplicate impressions 
can be made; also, the special appliances, 
collectively, by means of which this is done." 
The chance, however, is that you do not 
want any definition, but might like some 
directions for simplifying the process, which 
some teachers and students who want a 
number of copies of text or drawing, are 
using successfully. Agreeable to this con- 
tingency, we have: 

Receipt No. 1. — Soak an ounce of fish 
glue in cold water. Drain off the water; 
put the softened glue into a double boiler 
and melt it, but do not bring it to a boil. 
Obtain six ounces of glycerin, warm it and 
add it to the melted glue. Add a few 
drops of carbolic acid. Mix thoroly 
and pour into your Dan. A caramel pan 
is best. 

Receipt No. 2. — Add 3 ounces of water 
to 1^2 ounces of white glue. Heat in a 
double boiler until glue is melted. Then 
add six ounces of glycerin and pour into 
pan. If too hard, add glycerin. If too 
soft, add glue. 



Receipt No. 3.— Dissolve 4 ounces of 
gelatin in one pint of cold water; then add f 
one pint of glycerin. Pour into a double 
boiler, and when it comes to a boil pour 
into your pan. 

If bubbles appear on the surface, gently 
draw an edge of a sheet of writing paper 
over the surface before it cools. This will 
remove them. 

General directions for use. — Use noth- 
ing but unglazed paper, which can be pur- 
chased at any store where typewriter paper 
is sold. In ordering, be sure to state that 
you wish to use it for hektography. 

Use hektograph ink and a coarse stub 
pen. See that every stroke of the pen 
leaves a metallic luster when dry, else the 
work will not take. 

When the ink is dry, lay the face of the 
sheet which you have written or drawn, 
down on the hektograph; press gently over * 
the whole surface with the hand or soft 
cloth. After from two to five minutes (ac- 
cording to how many copies are desired) 
gently peel the paper off. 

From the impression thus made, repro- 
duce all the copies desired, laying one sheet 
on the hektograph at a time. 

Hektograph ink all prepared may be 
bought, or your druggist will put it up foi 
you. The following is the receipt: 

Ink — Dissolve one dram of purple aniline 
in one ounce of water. 

The hektograph solves the supplemen- 
tary reading question. Each teacher, or any 
one who desires a number of copies of any 
text or drawing, can thus prepare as many 
as needed, at a very small cost. 



10 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



ANOTHER FORMULA FOR MAKING A 
HECTOGRAPH. 

As the price of a good printing set is 
usually beyond the means of the average 
experimenter, the following device will not 
be found amiss as an excellent substitute: 

First obtain a shallow tin dish (the cover 
of a bread box will answer the purpose 
well), an ounce bottle, an ounce of gela- 
tine, 1 ounce of brown Demerara sugar, 
6 ounces of glycerine and 2^2 ounces of 
barium sulphate. Break the gelatine into 
small pieces and place in a sauce-pan with 
3 ounces of water and let this steep over- 
night. Next pour in the glycerine and heat 
over a fire. Put in the sugar and let it 
heat until dissolved. Then take the barium 
sulphate and mix with 1 ounce of water in 
a separate cup. Pour this into the sauce- 
pan, and when thoroughly mixed pour it 
into the flat tin dish (which should be well 
cleaned) and then allow the mass to harden. 

Buy some hectograph ink, or make it at 
home by filling an ounce bottle with 2 
drachms of methyl-violet aniline and 2 
drachms of spirit and dissolve it in 1 ounce 
of water. Write on a piece of paper what- 
eer you want to reproduce, and place the 
paper, face downward, on the rubber-like 
surface, rubbing same gently on the written 
matter. After one-half to one minute, pull 
the paper off. Then take another paper 
and press upon the hectograph, and it will 
be reproduced as many times as you repeat 
this operation. 

To clean the hectograph wash it first 
with water, mixed with an eighth part of 
hydrochloric acid, also known as spirit of 
salt ; then clean the surface with pure water. 
Let it stand for 12 heurs before using 
again. 



STILL ANOTHER HEKTOGRAPH. 

Gelatin, 1 part; Glycerin, 4 parts; 
Water, 2 parts. 

No. 1. — Ink for same: Methyl Violet, 1 
part; Water, 7 parts; Alcohol, 1 part. 

No. 2. — Rosaline, 2 parts; Water, 10 
parts; Alcohol, 1 part. 



SEALING WAX. 



(Red). Take 4 pounds shellac, 1J4 
pounds turpentine, 3 pounds finest cinnabar 
and add 4 ounces Venetian red. Mix the 
whole well together and melt over a very 
slow fire. Pour it on a thick smooth sheet 
of glass or any other flat surface and make 
it into sticks. 

(Black). Take the best black resin, 3 
pounds; beesw T ax, Yz a pound and finely 
powdered ivory black, 1 pound. Melt the 
whole together over a slow fire and mould 
into sticks. 



WATERPROOF COMPOUND. 

Suet, 8 ounces; linseed oil, 8 ounces; 

neatsfoot oil, \y 2 ounces; lampblack, 1 

ounce; litharge Y* ounce. Melt together 
and stir till cold. 



A FACSIMILE RUBBER STAMP. 

The following is a simple method where- 
by amateurs can make their own rubber 



Z/ncp/Qfe mth nomeef cried 




•MOU/Gf- 



P/ajter of par/6 



Mould for making: Facsimile Rubber Stamp. 



COMPOSITIONS OF ALL KINDS. 



11 



stamps. Place a piece of carbon copying 
paper face up upon a smooth table. On 
top of this place a piece of paper and write 
the desired name on same. The design 
will then be found traced upon the back 
of the paper and will read backwards. 

Then place the carbon paper face down 
upon a smooth piece of zinc and the writ- 
ing paper also face down on the carbon 
paper. 

Now go over the reversed name on the 
back of the paper, thereby tracing the same 
design upon the zinc. After this go over 
the lines on the zinc with an acid-proof 
ink, made by mixing equal parts of pyro- 
gallic acid and sulphate of iron. When dry 
apply hydrochloric acid to the face of the 
zinc, and after it has eaten deep enough 
wash off in running water. 

A plaster cast is then made by pouring 
plaster of paris, mixed with water, upon 
the zinc, which is laid face up in a mould 
similar to that shown in illustration. When 
hard remove the cast and the impression 
will be found in same. 

For those who are not experienced at 
vulcanizing rubber, or who do not care to 
go to the trouble, they can employ the 
following method: 

India rubber, cut up in small pieces, is 
dissolved in highly rectified spirits of tur- 
pentine until semi-fluid. This mixture is 
then poured into the plaster cast, which has 
been previously dusted with powdered 
graphite. When hard it is removed and 
mounted. 

The zinc can also be mounted type-high 
on a block of wood and used in a printing 
press. 



ARTIFICIAL AMBER. 

Dissolve shellac in an alkaline lye; then 
mix with a solution of chlorin until the 
shellac is entirely precipitated. Wash in 
water and heat gently till it runs clear. 
It can then be molded. 



ARTIFICIAL IVORY. 

Four parts sulphuric acid, 50 parts water. 
Macerate peeled potatoes in the solution 
36 hours. Dry the mass between blotting 
paper and subject to great pressure. 



WAX FOR BOTTLE SEALING. 

Mix rosin or cheap sealing wax with an 
equal amount of beeswax in a water-bath. 
Dip bottles in hot solution and lay on side 
until dry. 



REMOVING HARD RUBBER SCRATCHES. 

To remove scratches from hard rubber 
pass a heated soldering copper over a thick- 
ness of paper laid on the surface of the 
rubber. 



BATTERY WAX. 

A black wax for use in plugging up the 
top of dry cells and coating the tops of car- 
bons is composed of paraffine, 8 parts ; pitch, 
1 part; lampblack, 1 part. Heat the com- 
pound and stir until thoroughly mixed. 
Then apply with a brush or dip the parts 
into the warm fluid. 



MOULDING COMPOSITION. 

To produce a cheap composition for 
moulding frames, ornaments, etc., take 12 
parts of whiting, 6 parts of fine-sifted saw- 
dust and \y 2 parts of linseed oil cake. 
Knead all to a stiff paste with a strong 
solution of glue. 



WAX FOR METAL PATTERNS MAKING 
PLASTER CASTS. 

The following is a very good wax for 
metal patternmakers use. Rosin, 1 part ; 
beeswax, 1 part; plaster of paris, \y 2 parts. 
Heat the wax and rosin and stir in the 
plaster of paris, then add lampblack to 
make the desired color. Apply this wax 
with a heated knife. 

After taking an impression of a casting 
with plaster of paris, and by pouring 
vinegar around the edges, the plaster will 
loosen so that the cast can be removed with- 
out injuring it. If you want the plaster to 
set slow add some vinegar while mixing it. 



12 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



ASPHALT COMPOSITION. 

Mineral pitch, 1 part; bitumen, 11 parts; 
powdered stone or wood ashes, 7 parts. 
Asphalt Mastic is composed of nearly pure 
carbonate of lime and about 9 or 10 per 
cent of bitumen. When in a state of powder 
it is mixed with about 7 per cent of bitumen 
or mineral pitch. The powdered asphalt is 



mixed with the bitumen in a melted state 
along with clean gravel, and consistency is 
given to pour it into moulds. The asphalt 
is ductile, and has elasticity to enable it, 
with the small stones sifted upon it, to re- 
sist ordinary wear. Sun and rain do not 
affect it, wear and tear do not seem to in- 
jure it. It is also a most excellent roofing 
material when rightly applied. 



s: 



Glass and Glass Working. 



USEFUL GLASS WORKING FORMULAS. 

1. Glass Polishing Paste — Prepared chalk, 
9 oz. ; white bole, T / 2 oz. ; jewelers' rouge, 
y 2 oz. ; water, 5 oz. ; alcohol, 3 oz. Mix 
into a paste. To clean and polish windows 
or mirrors, moisten a cloth with alcohol, 
place a quantity of the paste about the size 
of a bean on the glass and rub over the sur- 
face with the cloth until dry and powder 
is removed. 

2. To Cut Glass Without a Diamond. — 
Glass may be cut under water with a strong 
pair of scissors or shears. Mark the part 
that is to be cut away with a heavy black 
line, then sink it with one hand under water 
as deep as you can without interfering with 
your view of the line and with the other 
hand use the scissors to cut away the part 
that is not required. 

3. To Drill Holes in Glass. — Bank the 
spot with a wad of putty. Make a hole into 
the putty down to the glass and of the size 
wanted. Into this pour melted lead and the 
piece will drop out. Use broken drill and 
turpentine. 

4. To Engrave on Glass. — Apply a thin 
coating of wax to the glass with gentle heat. 
When cool draw the design on the wax 
with a hard-pointed instrument so it pene- 
trates through to the glass. Apply an 
aqueous solution of hydrofluoric acid to the 
design with a soft brush. Apply several 
times to get deep outlines. Finally wash 
the acid off and remove the wax by heat. 

5. Imitation of Ground Glass. — A paint 
for imitating ground glass is made by rub- 
bing down some zinc oxide with linseed oil 
on a slab to a thick cream. Apply to the 
glass thinly and stipple with a stiff brush. 

Another method is the following: Paint 
the glass with the following varnishes: 
Sandarac 18 drams, mastic 4 drams, ether 
24 drams, benzine 6 to 18 ounces. The 
more benzine the coarser the grain of imi- 
tation glass will be. 



6. To Make Window Glass Sun Proof. — 
Pulverize gum tragacanth and let it dis- 
solve for 24 hours in the white of eggs, well 
beaten. Lay a coat of this on the window 
panes with a soft brush, let it dry, and you 
will have a coating the rays of the sun can- 
not penetrate. 



CEMENTING GLASS TO METALS. 

(1) A cement of great adhesive prop- 
erty, particularly serviceable in attaching 
the brass mountings on glass lamps, as it is 
unaffected by petroleum, may be prepared 
by boiling 3 parts of rosin with 1 part of 
caustic soda and 5 parts of water, thus mak- 
ng a kind of soap which is mixed with one- 
half of its weight of plaster of paris. Zinc 
white, white lead, or precipitated chalk may 
be used instead of the plaster, but when 
they are used the cement will be longer in 
hardening. 

(2) A cement for such purposes as fix- 
ing metal letters to glass windows consists 
of copal varnish 15 parts, drying oil 5 parts, 
turpentine 3 parts, oil of turpentine 2 parts, 
liquefied marine glue 5 parts. Melt in a 
water bath and add 10 parts dry slaked lime. 

(3) Brass letters may be securely fast- 
ened on glass windows by the following rec- 
ipes: Litharge 2 parts, white lead 1 part, 
boiled linseed oil 3 parts, gum copal 1 part. 
Mixed just before using this, forms a quick 
drying and secure cement. 

(4) One pound of shellac dissolved in 
a pint of strong methylated spirit, to which 
is to be added 1-20 part of a solution of 
india rubber in carbon bisulphide. 

(5) Take 2 ozs. of a thick solution of 
glue and mix with 1 oz. of linseed oil var- 
nish, or ?4 oz - °f Venice turpentine. Boil 
together, agitating until the mixture be- 
comes as intimate as possible. The pieces 
cemented should be fastened together for 
a space of 48 to 00 hours. 



13 



14 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



(6) One of the best cements for uniting 
glass to other substances is prepared by put- 
ting the best and purest gum arabic into a 
small quantity of water and leaving it till 
next day, when it should be of the con- 
sistency of treacle. Calomel (mercurous 
chloride or subchloride of mercury) is then 
added in suitable quantity, enough to make 
a sticky mass being well mixed on a glass 
plate with a spatula. No more is to be 
made than that required for immediate 
use. The cement hardens in a few hours, 
but it is wiser to leave it for a day or two. 
To insure success it is necessary to use only 
the very best gum; inferior sorts are abso- 
lutely useless. 

(7) Before glass can be soldered to 
metal it must be "quicked" upon the side 
that is to be soldered. The "quicking" 
process is similar to, if not identical with, 
the method of silvering a looking glass. 
When the glass is "quicked" it may be 
readily soldered to the metal, using Venice 
turpentine or chloride of zinc as a flux. 

(8) Sixty parts starch, 100 finely pul- 
verized chalk are made into a mixture with 
equal parts of water and spirit, and the 
addition of 30 parts Venice turpentine, tak- 
ing care to agitate the mass with a stick, 
so as to insure its homogeneity. 

(9) Four parts glue melted with the 
least possible quantity of water, 1 part 
Venice turpentine will resist moisture. 

(10) That solder in some form adheres 
to glass is well known and practised by the 
makers of fictitious jewelry. These are 
made up of pieces of black glass, cut and 
polished, and fairly soldered on to metal 
plates. By breaking one of these across it 
will at once be seen how strong the ad- 
herence really is. If the work has been 
well done the pieces of glass do not fly off, 
but are difficult to remove except in frag- 
ments. This soldering is done as follows: 



The shields, or metal plates, are coated 
with the appropriate pieces of glass, are 
laid on an iron plate, heated to the melting 
point of the tin. The piece of hot glass 
The shields, or metal plates, are coated 
with a thick layer of tin; these, together 
to be soldered is then picked up with forceps 
and its edge introduced under the surface 
of the melted stratum of tin and slid for- 
ward so as to carry some of the metal be- 
fore it, thus skimming off the oxidized sur- 
face so as to bring clean glass and clean 
metal in absolute contact. No glue must 
be used; the least trace of oil or resin will 
spoil the operation. When the piece of 
glass is fairly in place it is pressed down in 
order to squeeze out the surplus solder. 
It is this sliding action that insures success ; 
if the glass were to be directly pressed down 
upon the tin solder no adhesion would take 
place at all from the presence of a trace of 
oxide and the existence of an air film. The 
glass, of course, must be polished and per- 
fectly clean. 

(11) Beeswax and Venetian turpentine 
in varying proportions, depending upon con- 
sistency desired. 



A GOOD GLASS CEMENT. 
Formula No. 1. 

Pulverized glass, 10 parts; powdered 
fluorspar, 20 parts; soluble silicate of soda, 
60 parts. Both glass and spar must be of 
finest powder; the mixture must be made 
by quick stirring, and when incorporated, 
must be used at once. 

Formula No. 2. 

This is used for mending valuable articles 
of glass. A strong solution of gelatine, to 
which is added for every 5 parts of gelatine 
1 part solution acid chromate of lime. The 
mixture becomes insoluble in water under 
the action of light. In consequence of the 
partial reduction of the solution, cover the 
surfaces to be united as evenly as possible; 
press them together and tie them. Expose 
the glass to the sun a few hours. Boiling 
water has no effect on the oxidized cement, 
and the fracture can scarcely be recognized. 



GLASS AND GLASS WORKING. 



IS 



MAKING MIRRORS BY ELECTRICITY. The broken test-tube was lowered into 

A rapid and admirable method for de- ., t> a j u • j 

positing suitable metals on the surface of the BunSen flame and the J a ^ ed ed 2 es > 

glass so as to produce mirrors consists of when soft enough, (still held in the flame) 

decomposing the metal by means of a high . . 

potential electric current. It is thus de- were P ulled out Wlth the aid of an ordinary 

scribed in the Physikalische Zeitschrift by pa f r f p ii ers# when the walls seemed 
G. Rumelin. 

A metal plate is placed in juxtaposition thin enough, the jagged edges were drawn 



with the glass plate which is to receive the 



together thereby closing the end of the tube 



test-tubes is described herewith : 



coating. The two plates are then placed 

flat on a table beneath the receiver of an as in Fig. 3. The heat was concentrated 
air-pump suitable for producing a high de- „, „ «. « . , , . . 

gree of vacuum, such, for example, as the on b > Fl & 3 > and when soft enou e h the 

rotary molecular pump of Gaede. tip "a" was drawn out {while held in the 

A small quantity of an inert gas, such as 

hydrogen, is introduced into the vacuum flame)» 
and a high potential current is then turned 

on by means of the negative pole of a suit- ,_,. . «. . p . t1 , . . 

able source of electricity, this pole being The result a PP ears at Fl * 4 « Stdl hold " 

attached to the metal plate. Thirty seconds i ng the tube in the flame, the bottom was 
duration of this cathodic flow is sufficient 

to obtain a properly silvered mirror. heated untl1 soft when lt was Quickly re- 

Besides silver such metals as gold, cop- moved) the open end placed t0 the mouth> 
per, platinum, nickel, iron, paladium and 

iridium may be employed. and the breath forced into it. This was 

done several times until the bottom as- 
REP AIRING TEST-TUBES. 

A very good method of repairing broken sumed the sha P e of that at Fi g« 2 « Then 

it was annealed well in the luminous flame 

and set aside to cool. The result is a 
test-tube that may be used for all ordi- 
nary purposes not requiring heat. The tube 
may also be used in the flame if the tip of 
thick glass "d," Fig. 2, is removed with the 
aid of a grinding wheel or an oil-stone and 
the tube re-heated and annealed again. 



The jaws of the pliers must be hot when 
it comes in contact with the hot glass ana 
preferably one with narrow jaws and in- 
sulated handles. Before introducing the 
broken test-tube in the flame it must be well 
heated in the air above the flame to prevent 
further cracking. 




Don't Throw Away Your Brol«m T>fit-Tune#». Yon 
Can Repair Them KanUy. Junt Try! 



16 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



PENCILS FOR WRITING ON GLASS. 

Stearic acid, 4 pts. ; mutton-suet, 3 pts. ; 
wax 2 pts.; melt together and add 6 parts 
of read lead and 1 pt. purified carbonate of 
potassa, previously triturated together; set 
aside for an hour in a warm situation, stir- 
ring frequently; then pour into glass tubes 
or hollow reeds. 



A GOOD CLEANING SOLUTION FOR 
GLASSWARE. 

A good cleaning solution (chromic acid) 
may be made by dissolving potassium or 
sodium chromat in concentrated sulphuric 
acid, until a saturated solution results. Ap- 
paratus to be cleaned should be covered 
with a thin layer of this solution, and 
rinsed with water. 



HOW TO CUT LARGE BOTTLES. 

Here is a novel way to cut large 
glass bottles so as to make jars. Pro- 
cure a large bottle. If the top is not level 
or tapers it can be cut by the following 



Heated /'ron 



Where g/o$$ 
tv///6reaA ■. 




Wofer 



A Simple Way to Cut Off Large Glass Bottles, 

by Plunging a Red-Hot Iron Into an Oil and 

Water Solution Filling the Bottle Up to the Line 

Where the Cut Is to Be Made. 

means: Pour water into bottle within 1 
inch of line where you want to cut. Then 
slowly pour linseed oil in up to the level 
of proposed cut. Then a red-hot iron 
plunged vertically into the oil will cause 
the glass to crack at the level of the liquid 
and leave an open top jar. 



REMOVING GLASS STOPPERS. 

Take a piece of wood about 12 inches 
long, 1 inch wide and l /% inch thick (an 
ordinary light ruler is just the thing), hold 
the bottle upright, either on the bench or 
in the hand, tap the under side of the 
shoulder of stopper a few minutes with the 
edge of the piece of wood or rule, first one 
side and then the other, says The Amateur 
Photographer s Weekly. It will then be 
found that it is quite easy to remove the 
stopper with the fingers. 



HINTS ON DRILLING GLASS. 

Drilling glass is a difficult proposition 
and very few amateurs possess tools suit- 
able for this purpose. The following ap- 
paratus will drill holes, varying in size from 
the smallest up to an inch or more. 

First procure a brass tube the outside 
diameter of which measures the same size 
as the desired hole. Revolve this on the 
surface of the glass, either by hand or bet- 
ter by means of a small hand drill. The 
drilling must be started by allowing the 
lower end of the tube to be guided by a 
wooden block, with a hole cut in it the size 
of the tube. After the tube has passed 
through the glazing this guide can be re- 
moved. An excellent abrasive for this drill 
is emery dust and turpentine. It is an ex- 
cellent idea to drill from both sides, since 
this results in a clean, smooth hole. 



ELECTRIC GLASS JAR CUTTER. 

Procure two brass or iron rods, 7 in. long 
by J4 i°- diameter. Flatten them out slight- 
ly at both ends and drill holes, just large 
enough to pass a battery bolt, %. in. from 
the ends as shown. 



GLASS AND GLASS WORKING, 



17 



Notice that at one end the rods are flat- 
tened for about ^4 m - so tnat tnev can De 
almost closed. The rods are fastened to- 
gether at A with a battery bolt and two 
nuts. A third nut serves to hold the wire 
lead. The arms should work smoothly. 
Battery bolts are inserted at B and C and 
a piece of German Silver or other resistance 
wire, connected at B, forms a loop and in 
turn is connected at C. The length of wire 
and size remains with the experimenter, de- 
pending upon the current available. No. 
22 German Silver wire will suffice for use 
on a step down transformer of about 8 volts. 

To cut a glass jar, grip the instrument 
in the right hand with the two fingers be- 
tween the two arms so that they can be 
spread further apart if necessary. The loop 
of wire is placed around the jar at the point 
at which it is to be cut and held taut. One 
lead from the source of current is connected 
at A and the other is held in the left hand 
and touched at point E on the wire for a 
few seconds. For best results the wire 
should almost reach a red heat. After be- 



HOW TO CUT GLASS TUBES. 

A good way to cut glass tubes with the 
ordinary glass cutter is to bore a hole in 



1 ' 




I 


I'll 


1 g^C 




/WJ_Jj 


\C D ^*** am ***** 


— ">—- A 


inf = 




1 i n 




If 




© 





An Electric Glass Tube and Jar Cutter — Current 
Is Past from "E" to "A", Heating Wire, when 
Glass Is Wetted at the Point where Wire En- 
circled It. 

ing left in place for a few seconds dash a 
little cold water against the heated glass. 
A clean break should result. 




Cutting Glass Tubes Is Always a Problem to 

the Amateur. Here's a Simple Method Using 

an Ordinary Glass Cutter. 

your work bench and fit a glass cutter in 
it with the handle down, so that the wheel is 
about one eighth of an inch above the level 
of the bench. Lay the tube to be cut against 
the cutting wheel of the glass cutter and 
turn with the hand as shown in the illus- 
tration. This scores the glass so that the 
tube may be easily broken with the hands. 



THE WHEEL GLASS-CUTTER. 

Many experimenters have at some time 
or other occasion to cut glass, and no doubt 
most of them use the wheel-cutters, wh'ich 
are soon thrown away as of no use. Per- 
haps the following tip will be of service to 
them. I had occasion to cut some glass a 
few days ago, and had only an old, and, as 
I thought, worn-out wheel to do it with. 
I tried dipping it in a drop of paraffin, and 
was astonished to find that it cut as well as 
when new. I experimented with two others 
which I had discarded, and found that they 
cut equally well. Turpentine seems to 
answer the same purpose. 



18 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



HOW TO CUT GLASS TUBING. 

To many, or rather most experimenters, 
it is a difficult thing to cut glass tubing 
larger than a half inch in diameter. Sizes 
under this can be broken after being cut or 
nicked slightly with a file. The method ex- 
plained here is that used in most chemical 
laboratories. To illustrate, say the tube is 
about an inch and a half or so in diameter. 
The required length of tubing is measured 
oft and then a groove is cut around the 
tube with the corner of a file. This must 
be rather deep. Then a piece of filter paper 
is folded so as to be about two inches wide 
and long enough to go around the tube. 
The paper is then moistened. This and a 
similar piece are placed one on each side 
of the groove, leaving about a quarter of an 
inch between the two. A flame from a bun- 
sen burner or blow pipe is then applied to 
the groove and it will be found that the 
tube breaks evenly along the file cut. An- 
other method that can be used on smaller 
tubing, about half inch in diameter, is to 
make a cut as described and then apply a 
red hot piece of iron to one spot on the cut. 



A sharp, even break of the tube is the re- 
sult. We have thus "cut" off the necks of 
large bottles.) 



Dompened fitter pope/? 
Groove ■ 

J Illllii 

6 Vg 'jj tube. 




Easy Way to Cut Glass Tubing. 

(A very simple method to accomplish the 
above is the following: Take a thick piece 
of string and soak it well in alcohol. Tie 
it around the part where tube is to be cut. 
Now light the string. The second it ex- 
tinguishes dash a drop of cold water on it. 



AN EFFICIENT PLATE GLASS DRILL. 

In making a static machine, it is prefer- 
able to have the glass plates drilled in the 
exact center to allow passage of the spindle 
or axle, but the accomplishment of this task 



P/umb bod^\ 




lm ? elt 






<v> / f^gp *r jT\ 


Box 




£■"■■ "\ 




,..' = -::---... -i=^ ' 


Shelf- 


f. [ CjF^?Si^ .. 






€lasspfofe J ^-Spoaf 


® 



Simple Home-made Apparatus for Drilling Holes 
in Plate Glass for Static Machines, Etc. 

is a stumbling block to the amateur con- 
structor and even difficult for those more 
skilled in workmanship. However, the 
simple drill apparatus shown herewith will 
do the trick very nicely and, while a little 
patience is necessary, the excellent results 
will more than compensate for the time and 
energy expended. 

First procure a wooden box, size about 
17" x 10" x 7" and force out the top and 
bottom of the same, after which construct a 
shelf as shown. Then drill through both 
the top piece and this shelf a hole, size of 
which should be of such a diameter as to 
allow the tube of an ordinary curtain rod 
to revolve freely and not too loosely. Take 
the brass rod that was inside of this tube, 
cut oft a piece about 6" in length and insert 
one extremity- into the bore of a carpenter's 
plumb bob. This latter should be as large 
as possible and weigh at least one pound. 
Now, saw oft both ends of an ordinary 
thread spool and then glue together in such 



GLASS AND GLASS WORKING. 



19 



a manner as to form a pulley, after which 
fasten rigidly to the top of the drill, directly 
underneath the plumb bob. To give 
greater speed to the drill, make a larger 
pulley as shown and connect together by 
means of a leather belt. However, this 
method will not be found very satisfac- 
tory, as the stretching tendency of the 
leather will in a short time cause the belt 
to slip and thus prevent motion entirely. 
A better and simpler way is to merely hold 
the belt at both ends, fit into the groove of 
the small pulley, and then pull forward 
first with one hand and then the other, 
which action will give a continual alternat- 
ing circular motion to the drill. 

When everything has been completed, 
insert the rod, to which the plumb bob is 
attached, into the drill or tube, being care- 
ful beforehand to pour in a small quantity 
of emery. In as much as this substance is 
difficult to get in a loose form, it is suggested 
that the reader buy a few sheets of regu- 
lar emery paper. These should first be 
torn up in small pieces, then put in a 
metal pot or pan and finally set fire to. 
The paper will burn away, leaving the 
emery grains, which can be easily sep- 
arated from the paper ash by sifting through 
a fine strainer. For the purpose of raising 
the glass plate upward so that the full 



weight of the plumb bob is brought to bear, 
glue a large thread or cotton spool to its 
center. As the hole of the latter can be 
seen through the glass, this will also act as 
a guide in drilling. 

From time to time, in operating this 
drill, add a little machine oil to the emery 
in order to provide a lubricant and thus 
prevent the glass from cracking. Also 
roughen the end of the drill with a file, 
so as to give it a sharper and therefore better 
cutting edge. 



HOW TO CUT THE TOP OFF A BOTTLE. 

Cut a piece of filter or blotting paper in 
two narrow strips, moisten same and paste 
around the bottle, each piece of paper paral- 
lel to the other, leaving between them a 
narrow space, marking the place where you 
want to cut the bottle. Now hold the bottle 
over the flame of a spirit lamp and turn 
slowly so that the bare space is heated 
evenly; after about a minute the glass will 
break quite clean and will only need to be 
filed smoothly to take off the sharp edges. 



HOW TO FROST OR COLOR LAMP BULBS. 

Dip the bulb in a thin solution of white 
shellac and alcohol, which gives it a frosted 
appearance. Add diamond dyes of the de- 
sired shade to the solution for colors. 






Inks. 



INK FORMULAS. 

1. Ink for Porcelain : — Colophony resin, 
20 parts; Borax. 35 parts; Alcohol, 150 
parts; Water, 250 parts. Xigrosine in suf- 
ficient quantity. Dissolve the resin and 
nigrosine in the alcohol and the borax in 
the water and mix both solutions. 

2. Stamping Ink: — Manganese phos- 
phate, 30 parts; Hydrochloric acid, 60 
pans; Anthracence, 15 parts; Potassium 
chromate, 7.5 parts ; Gum acaia in sufficient 
quantity; Water, 7.5 parts. Dissolve the 
manganese phospate in the hydrochloric 
acid, make a mixture of the anthracence, 
potassium chromate and water, and shake. 
Mix the whole vigorously, adding sufficient 
gum acaia to maintain suspension. 

3. Typewriting Ink: — Transparent soap, 
1 part; Glycerine, 4 parts; Water, 12 parts; 
Alcohol, 25 parts; Aniline dye, sufficient 
quantity. Dissolve the soap in a mixture 
of the glycerine and water by aid of heat, 
and finally the aniline dye dissolved in the 
alcohol. 

4. Red Typewriting Ink : — Bordeaux red, 
1 part; Aniline red, 15 parts; Oelic acid, 
45 parts; Castor oil, sufficient quantity, ap- 
proximately 1,000 parts. The coloring mat- 
ters are triturated with the oelic acid. The 
castor oil is then added and the whole heated 
at 100 to M0 degrees, under constant agi- 
tation. 

5. Red Copying Ink: — Extract of log- 
wood, 80 parts; Water. 1,000 parts. Dis- 
solve with the aid of heat under constant 
stirring and add Potassium bichromate, 10 
parts. .After solution is effected add nitric 
acid, 30 parts. After shaking thoroughly 
add to thicken dextrin, 60 parts; water, 60 
parts; salicylic acid, 1.5 part. 

6. Universal Ink: — Extract of logwood, 
16 parts: Hot Water, 200 parts. To the 
solution add Chrome alum, 16 parts; Po- 
tassium chromate, 660 parts. 



7. Black School Ink: — Extract of log- 
wood, S parts; hot water, 180 parts. To the 
solution add Potassium bichromate, 1.3 
parts; hot water, 20 parts; Hydrochloric 
acid, 3.5 parts. 

8. Indelible Ink: — Extract of logwood, 
20 parts; boiling water, 280 parts. After 
solution has been effected, mix it with a 
liquid composed of solution of Pot.': 
bichromate, 3.5 parts; hot water, 20 parts; 
Hydrochloric acid, 8 parts. 



INK RECIPES. 

Everlasting Black. — Tannic acid, 1 oz.; 
crystal gallic acid, 77 grs. ; sulphate of iron, 
5 drs. ; gum arabic, 100 grs. ; dilute muriatic 
acid, y 2 oz. ; Carbolic acid and water (acid 
10 drs.; water, 1_ T 4 pints). Mix the acid 
and water and dissolve the other ingredi- 
ents therein. This ink will not fade. 

Red Ink {Bright). — Dissolve 25 parts of 
saffron in 500 parts of warm glycerin, then 
stir carefully in 500 parts of alcohol and 
500 parts acetic acid. It is then diluted 
with 9,000 parts of water, to which a little 
gum arabic may be added. 

Gold Ink. — Fine bronze powder is mixed 
with a little sulphate of potash and water; 
the precipitate is mixed with water and a 
sufficient amount of gum. 

Green Ink. — Rub 3 drs. of Prussian blue 
and 6 drs. gamboge with 4 ozs. mucilage 
and a pint of water. 

Silver Ink. — Silver leaf ground with a 
little sulfate of potash is washed from the 
salt and mixed with water and a small 
amount of gum acacia. 

White Ink. — Triturate together one part 
honey and two parts of dry ammonia alum. 
Dry thoroughly and calcine in a shallow 
dish over a fire until perfectly white. Cool, 
wash, rub up with sufficient gum and add 
water for use as ink. 

Vanishing Ink. — This ink consists of an 
aqueous solution of iodide of starch. Char- 
acters written with it completely vanish in 
about four weeks. 



20 



INKS. 



21 



GOOD INK FORMULAE. 

These two formulae obtained through 
original experiments, have been found to 
produce excellent inks. The ingredients are 
easily obtained and at little expense. Rain 
water may be used in place of distilled 
water thus removing the need of having 
any chemical apparatus. The resulting inks 
are each of a beautiful color, make a per- 
manent record, flow easily, and do not cor- 
rode the pens. The blue ink can be used 
successfully and safely in the most delicate 
of fountain pens. 

Blue Ink : — Dissolve one ounce of soluble 
Prussian blue in one quart of cold distilled 
(rain) water. Add to this solution, 5 
grams of oxalic acid. Then filter the solu- 
tion through filter or blotting paper. 

Black Ink : — Dissolve one ounce of ex- 
tract of logwood in one quart of boiling 
water. When cold, add one-fourth ounce 
of potassium bichromate and one gram of 
sodium carbonate. The addition of one- 
fourth ounce of prussian blue improves the 
solution. This ink will cost about 5 cents. 



A FEW USEFUL INK FORMULAS. 

Blue ink: 

3 parts Prussian blue. 
1 part Oxalic acid. 
30 parts water. 
When dissolved add 1 part of gum arabic. 

Green ink: Sap green dissolved in very 
weak alum water. 
A good ink eraser: 

A. Oxalic acid mixed with citric acid 
may be used. 

B. Equal parts of cream of tartar and 
citric acid in solution with water. 

Inks that appear through heat: 

A. A weak solution of nitrat of copper ; 
when heated it becomes (Red). 

B. With a solution of sulphuric acid 
(Black). 

C. With lemon, onion, leek, cabbage 
or milk and will be visible when 
paper is heated. 



D. With a weak solution of nitrat of 
mercury (Black). 
Invisible ink: 

A. Write with pure dilute tincture of 
iron and develop with a blotter 
moistened with strong tea. 

B. Linseed oil 1 part 

Ammonia 20 parts 

Water 100 parts 

Mix well before using. 

Vanishing ink: 

To make an ink black at the time but 
that will disappear in 24 hours: Boil nut- 
galls in alcohol, add copper sulphate and 
sal ammoniac, let cool and then dissolve a 
little gum in it. 



BLUE INK FOR USE ON GLASS. 

A blue fluid for writing on glass which 
is not attacked by water is made as follows : 
Bleached Shellac, 10 parts; Venice Turpen- 
tine, 5 parts; Oil of turpentine, 15 parts; 
Powdered Indigo, 5 parts. Mix the shellac, 
oil of turpentine, and place in water bath 
under gentle heat until solution takes place. 
Then add the indigo. 



INK POWDER. 



A good ink powder to be thinned with 
water can be made from the following: 
Malachite Green Crystals, one part ; Fuch- 
sine, one part ; Lump Gum Arabic, one part. 
The Gum Arabic should be partly pul- 
verized. 



INK RECIPES. 



( 1 ) Black Writing Ink. — Take 6 ounces 
of the best gallnuts and pound them in a 
mortar or otherwise. Take 4 ounces of 
logwood and let it be cut or ground into 
very small pieces ; these, mixed with 4 
quarts of rain water, must be boiled to- 
gether until half diminished. Then take 
2 ounces of copperas made into a powder, 
and 3 ounces of gum arabic; let these be 
also mixed and strained through a linen 
cloth. After this mixture has stood a few 
hours it may be written with. 



22 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



(2) Green Writing Ink. — Dissolve 1 
ounce of Hoffman's Permanent Malachite 
Green in 1 gallon of hot water ; add a little 
gall and alcohol. Reduce with cold water 
to the required shade. 

(3) Sympathetic Ink. — An ordinary solu- 
tion of gum camphor in whiskey is said to 
be a permanent and excellent sympathetic 
ink. The writing must be done quickly, as 
the first letters of a word have disappeared 
by the time the last are written. Dipping 
the paper in water brings it out distinctly, 
and it becomes invisible again when the 
paper is dried. It can be brought out re- 
peatedly without affecting its vividness. 



SILVER AND GOLD INK. 

A beautiful gold ink may be made as 
follows : 

Honey and gold leaf, equal parts; add 
turpentine until the gold is reduced to the 
finest possible state of division. Agitate 
with thirty parts hot water and allow to 
settle; decant the water and repeat the 
washing several times and finally dry the 
gold leaf and mix it with a little gum water 
for use. 

Silver Ink. — For silver ink the process 
is the same as for gold, substituting silver 
leaf for the gold leaf. 

Luminous Ink. — The following ink is 
luminous or shines in the dark: Phosphor- 
ous, y 2 dram, oil of cinnamon, y 2 ounce. 
Mix in a vial, cork tightly and heat slowly 
until mixed. 

A letter written in this ink can only be 
read in a dark place, when the writing will 
have the appearance of fire. 



A GOOD WRITING FLUID EASILY MADE. 

A good writing fluid, of a rich, dark 
black, can be put up by following this 
formula : 

Two and four-tenths grams of logwood 
extract, should be mixed with 100 cubic 
centimeters of distilled water. 



Heat should be applied until the sub- 
stance is dissolved. After it is cooled potas- 
sium chromate should be added, until the 
desired shade is attained. From 2 to 3 c.c. 
is usually sufficient. A little gum arabic, 
or gelatine, may be dissolved in the matter 
to give it a good consistency, or "body." 

If this method is followed the solution 
should then be filtered through silk. This 
finishes the fluid, and it is ready for use. 
For Users of Fountain Pens. 

There is always a great difficulty in un- 
screwing a fountain-pen for refilling. You 
will find, however, that if the threaded 
piece of the pen is slightly greased with a 
little vaseline the parts will unscrew much 
easier, and the contained ink cannot leak 
out, thus eliminating soiled fingers. 



VIOLET INK. 

Primula Violet, 1 1/6 ounce. Distilled 
boiled water, 3 quarts. This can be con- 
verted to copying ink by adding 4 ounces 
glycerin. 

Primula violet is known as Hoffmans 
violet. The finest shade is No. 6. Other 
shades can be made from other colors. Add 
about 5 per cent alcohol and 1 to 4 per cent 
glycerin to keep. 



INK-ERASING BLOTTER. 

Take an ordinary sheet of thick blotting 
paper and steep it several times in a solution 
of oxalic potassium, and dry. While the 
ink spot is still moist apply the blotter, and 
the ink will be entirely removed. If the 
ink is dry moisten and apply the blotter. 



INK THINNER. 

If your drawing ink clots or gets lumpy 
from standing open, add some aqua-am- 
monia and shake well. 



INKS. 



23 



SYMPATHETIC INKS. 

(1) Rub Out Ink. — This ink is named 
"Rub Out" Ink because it can be rubbed 
out more easily than it is written with on 
paper. Take common starch and dissolve 
it in water and then add some iodine. 
Shake well before using and write as with 
regular ink. When dry, it has a purple 
color and can be erased by simply passing 
a clean cloth lightly over the paper and 
leaves no trace on the paper. 

(2) A dilute solution of sulphuric acid 
when heat is supplied, produces fine black 
characters. Use H 2 S0 4 ( 1 ) Part to H 2 
(20) parts. 

(3) Combine (1) and (2) and you have 
the "disappearing reappearing" ink. Use 
in this way. First write on paper with the 
mixture of (1) and (2). Then rub out. 
The writing is not to be seen any more but 
you can immediately cause it to appear by 
slightly heating the paper. 

(4) If you have not any sulphuric acid 
at hand to make (2) with, use lemon juice 
or acetic acid, or citric acid or any harm- 
less acid. 

(5) A dilute solution of chlorid of copper 
used for writing is invisible until the paper 
is heated, when the letters are seen of a 
beautiful yellow, disappearing with the heat 
which develops them. 

(6) Weak solutions of nitrat of silver 
and gold chlorid when exposed to the sun 
become dark brown and purple respectively. 

(7) Potassium ferrocyanid, one part, is 
dissolved in distilled water, twenty-five 
parts. When dry lay over the writing a 
blotter moistened with a dilute solution of 
ferric chlorid (tincture of iron will an- 
swer). 

(8) Solutions of cobalt chlorid or the 
nitro-chlorid yield tracings which become 
green or blue when heated and disappear 
again as the paper cools. 



(9) Boil some gall-nuts in aqua-fortis 
and to the infusion add some gum arabic 
and a little sulphuric acid. However plain 
the ink may be at first, it will entirely dis- 
appear from the paper in a few days. 



SYMPATHETIC INKS. 

Below are given the formulae for making 
sympathetic inks: 

Formula No. 1. 

Take some pure lime juice, or lemon will 
do, and write with it on a paper. Then 
heat over an alcohol lamp and the writing 
will come out brown. 

Formula No. 2. 

Dissolve some sulphate of iron in water 
and write with it. Heat and the writing 
will come out dark brown or black. 

Formula No. 3 

Dissolve some chlorate of potash in water. 
Write with it and heat. The writing will 
come out brown. 

Formula No. 4. 

For purple invisible ink. Take some 
salicylate of soda and dissolve in water; 
don't make the solution too strong, or it 
will turn brown where you write with it. 
Reagent. About 50 per cent solution of 
tincture of iron applied with a brush. The 
writing will come out purple. 



"HANDY" WATER PEN. 

Take best quality violet aniline, reduce to 
a thick paste with water, then add mucilage 
and mix thoroughly; apply the paste thus 
made to the pen and let it dry 12 hours. 
Any steel pen may be prepared in this way. 
Directions for using: Start action by dip- 
ping in water up to filling. If pen should 
be greasy, wet point with the tongue. To 
make the ink flow thick, dip to the filling, 
if wanted thin or pale, dip only to the eye 
of pen after starting. After using throw 
water off, but don't wipe it, for it will 
dry in a minute. 



24 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



ACID INK ERADICATOR. 

An ink eradicator quite as good as those 
manufactured is given below: 

Add 110 grams of chloride of lime to 1 
liter of water; let the solution stand for 24 
hours, then strain through fine cloth and 
add 10 parts acetic acid to each 25 parts of 
solution. 

To erase ink, apply with reverse end of 
a penholder, and dry with a blotter. 



FORMULAE FOR INVISIBLE INKS. 

No. 1. — 20 parts water, 1 part sulphuric 
acid. Add the acid to the water and not 
the water to the acid. Unless care is taken 
that this is done, the heat developed by 
the dissociation of the acid may break the 
vessel. Use with a clean steel pen, and 
when writing is dried it will become in- 
visible, unless the pen has scratched the 
surface. To read, hold the paper for a 
moment near a red-hot stove or before a 
gas flame. 

No. 2. — 1 oz. citrate of potash, 5 oz. 
water. Make a complete solution and use 
same as No. 1. 

Sympathetic Ink. 

Dissolve chloride or nitrate of cobalt in 
water. When warmed slightly before a 
fire the writing will show; on exposure to 
moist air it will disappear. 



/ 



FINE INK AND MAGIC PAPER. 



Fine Ink. — This experiment is most effec- 
tive in a dark room. Dissolve Yz teaspoon- 
ful of potassium nitrat in a little water 
(about \y 2 teaspoonfuls). Now use this 
liquid as an ink, writing on unglazed paper 
any design, making broad and heavy strokes 
and be sure to connect all lines. When 
the paper is thoroughly dry, apply a light 
to the end of the writing — putting out any 
flame that arises. If all directions have 
been carefully followed a glowing spark 
will travel the length of the design. 



The effect is most mysterious and best 
results are obtained by using soft paper and 
writing all lines broad and heavy. 

Magic Paper. — If some people don't be- 
lieve you can write black lines with plain 
water show them this experiment: 

On a sheet of writing paper rub this mix- 
ture — equal parts of tannic acid (powder) 
and tannic ammonium sulphate thoroughly 
mixed. After the mixture has been rubbed 
into the paper blow off all remaining par- 
ticles. The paper is now ready. Write 
with a clean pen, dip in water and black 
lines will appear. 



INVISIBLE INK RECIPES. 

Recipe No. 1. — Writing fluid: 1 drachm 
potassium iodide; enough water to make 1 
ounce. Reagent: A strong solution of bi- 
chloride of mercury; apply with a brush 
and the writing will come out red. 

Recipe No. 2. — Writing fluid: 1 drachm 
potassium ferrocyanide ; enough water to 
make 1 ounce. Reagent: 1 drachm per- 
chloride; enough water to make 1 ounce, 
or 50 per cent solution of tincture of iron; 
apply with a brush and the writing will 
come out blue. 

Recipe No. 3. — Writing fluid: 1 drachm 
cobalt chloride; enough water to make 1 
ounce. Reagent: Heat, and the writing 
will be blue. 

A small amount of acacia gum added to 
the writing fluids will improve the writing 
quality. Number one is preferred because 
it is easier to get, the paper is unstained 
and the writing can be erased by simply 
heating. 



INK FOR WRITING ON METALS. 

Formula : 

Muriatic Acid 1 oz. 

Nitric Acid V2 oz. 



INKS. 



25 



Cover the portion of the metal you wish 
to write upon with melted wax and allow 
to cool. Write the inscription plainly with 
any sharp instrument through the wax to 
the metal. 

Apply the mixture with a feather or rag, 
carefully filling each letter, and let it re- 
main from 1 to 30 minutes, according to 
the depth desired ; after which wash off the 
wax and mixture, and rub over with a little 
sweet oil to prevent further tarnish or rust. 



MAGIC INK RECIPES. 

Red Ink. — One drachm potassium thio- 
cyanate to one-half ounce of water. Re- 
agent — One-half ounce of ferric chloride to 
one ounce of water. Apply with a mop 
or brush and writing will appear red. 

Blue Ink.— One drachm potassium ferro- 
cyanide to one ounce of water. Reagent — 
Fifty per cent solution of ferric chloride 
or other ferric salts. 

Blue Ink. — One drachm potassium ferro- 
cyanide, otherwise called red prussiate of 
potash (note, not ferrocyanide, which is 
yellow prussiate of potash), to one ounce 
of water. Reagent — Strong solution of 
ferrous sulphate. 

Black Ink. — Tannin (strong solution) 
for the writing solution. Reagent — Very 
strong solution of ferrous sulphate. 

Glycerine gives the ink more "body." 



INDIA INK. 

Grind fine lampblack and gelatine, scent 
with camphor or musk essence and mold in 
sticks. It can be improved by washing the 
lampblack with a solution of caustic soda 
and then straining off the solution or dry- 
ing it out. 



J FLUORESCENT WRITING. 

If we dissolve some sulphate of quinine 
in water and then draw a design or write 
some motto or sentence on a piece of white 
paper with the solution and allow it to dry 
the drawing or design will be absolutely in- 
visible. 



But if this same piece of paper be il- 
luminated by the light of a Geissler or 
vacuum tube then the design or writing 
will at once appear as if written or drawn 
with a beautiful blue ink. 



INDELIBLE INK FOR GLASS OR METAL. 

Borax, 1 oz. ; shellac, 2 oz. ; water, 18 
fluid oz. ; boil in a covered vessel, add of 
thick mucilage, 1 oz. ; triturate it with levi- 
gated indigo and lampblack q. s., to give it 
a good color. After 2 hours' repose, decant 
from the dregs and bottle for use. It may 
be bronzed after being applied. Resists 
moisture, chlorine, and acids. 



TICKETING INK. 

Dissolve 1 oz. of gum arabic in 6 oz. 
water, and strain ; this is the mucilage ; for 
black color, use drop black, powdered, and 
ground with the mucilage to extreme fine- 
ness; for blue, ultra-marine is used in the 
same manner ; for green, emerald green ; for 
white, bake white ; for red, vermilion, lake, 
or carmine; for yellow, chrome yellow. 
When ground too thick they are thinned 
with a little water. Apply to the cards with 
a small brush. The cards may be sized with 
a thin glue, and afterwards varnished, if 
it is desired to preserve them. 



INDELIBLE STENCIL-PLATE INK. 

One lb. precipitate carbonate of iron ; 1 
lb. sulphate of iron; 1^4 lbs. acetic acid. 
Stir over a fire until they combine ; then 
add 3 lbs. printer's varnish and 2 lbs. fine 
book ink, and stir until well mixed. Add 1 
lb. of Ethiop's mineral. 



LITHOGRAPHIC INK. 

Venice turpentine 1 part, lampblack 2 
parts, hard tallow soap parts, mastic in 
tears 8 parts, shellac 12 parts, wax 16 parts; 
melt, stir, and pour it out on a slab. 



HORTICULTURAL INK. 

Copper, 1 part; dissolve in nitric acid, 10 
parts, and add water, 10 parts; used to 
write on /inc, or tin labels. 



26 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



INVISIBLE INK. 

Dissolve equal parts of copper sulphate 
and ammonium chlorid in water until it 
becomes light green. When heated it will 
turn yellow. 



DRAFTING HINTS. 

Tracings may be very readily cleaned 
and pencil marks removed by the use of 
benzine, applied with a cotton swab. It 
may be rubbed freely over the surface with- 



out fear of injury to the lines drawn in ink, 
or even water colors, but pencil marks and 
dirt will quickly disappear. The benzine 
evaporates almost immediately, leaving the 
tracing unharmed. The surface, however, 
will be somewhat softened and should be 
rubbed down with a little powdered talc or 
chalk before drawing more ink lines. 

Always sprinkle chalk or talc on surface 
(dull side) of cloth, rub in with fingers, 
and wipe off before starting to draw ink 
lines. 






Leather Polishes, Etc. 



BLACKINGS FOR BOOTS AND SHOES. 

1. French Paste for Patent Leather. — 
Take 6 drm. of Pure Wax, 2 oz. of Olive 
Oil. This wax has to be melted in a water 
bath. Mix thoroughly by stirring; heat 
moderately. Add J4 oz. of Oil of Turpen- 
tine and Yi oz. of Oil of Lavender. The 
mixture will form a paste, which should be 
put in boxes before it becomes cool. Apply 
with a linen rag. A very good paste, which 
keeps the leather soft and restores the gloss. 

2. Dressing for Tan Shoes. — Take 1 oz. 
of AnnattOj 1 oz. of Gamboge, 1 oz. of 
Acacia, 2 oz. of Catechu, 2 oz. of Hydro- 
chloric Acid. Add water enough to make 
40 ounces. 

3. Polish for Tan and Russet Shoes. — 
1 oz. of Dark Yellow Wax, 3 oz. of Oil of 
Turpentine, 1 oz. of Palm Oil, 15 min. of 
Oil of Mirhan. Melt the wax and oil to- 
gether, add the turpentine, and, when 
nearly cool, the oil of Mirban. 

4. French Boot Blacking. — Dissolve 150 
parts of Wax and 15 parts of Tallow in a 
mixture of 200 parts of Linseed Oil, 20 
parts of Litharge, 100 parts of Molasses at 
a temperature of 250° F. After this add 
103 parts of Lampblack. When cool dilute 
the mixture with 280 parts of Spirits of 
Turpentine, and finally mix with a solution 
of 5 parts of Gum Lac and 2 parts of Ani- 
line Violet in 35 parts of Alcohol. 

5. German Boot Blacking. — Melt to- 
gether 90 parts of Ceresine (or Beeswax), 
30 parts of Oil of Spermaceti, 350 parts of 
Asphalt Varnish. Add 10 parts of Borax, 
20 parts of Lampblack, 10 parts of Prussian 
Blue, 5 parts of Nitro-Benzol. 

6. Self-Shining Blacking. — Dissolve 8 oz. 
of Gum Arabic in 8 oz. of best Black Ink; 
add 2 oz. of Olive Oil. Mix thoroughly 
and then add 4 oz. of Strong Vinegar, 3 
oz. of Brown Sugar, 2 oz. of Alcohol. 

27 



7. Waterproof Blacking. — Melt together 
3 oz. of Beeswax and 3 oz. of Black Resin; 
then stir in 1 pt. of Boiled Oil. When it 
has cooled a little add 3 oz. of Oil of Tur- 
pentine. 

8. Russian Waterproof Boot Blacking. — 
Melt 1 oz. of Beeswax, ]/ 2 oz. of Suet, 2 oz. 
of Olive Oil. Add ]/ 2 oz. of Lampblack 
and stir until cool. Warm the boots and 
apply the blacking. 

9. Liquid Shoe Blacking. — 5 oz. of Ani- 
mal Charcoal, 4 oz. of Molasses, ^4 oz - 
Sweet Oil. Triturate until the oil is thor- 
oughly incorporated, then stir in % pint of 
Vinegar and % pint of Beer Lees. 

10. Finishing Blacking. — Mix together 
y 2 oz. of Gelatine, Yz oz. of Indigo, 1 oz. 
of Logwood Extract, 2 oz. of Crown Soap, 
8 oz. of Softened Glue, 1 qt. of Vinegar. 
Heat the whole over a slow fire and stir 
till thoroughly mixed. Apply with a soft 
brush and polish with a woolen cloth. 



LEATHER PRESERVATIVES. 

One hundred parts Sweet Oil, 100 parts 
Mutton Suet, 2 parts Turpentine. Melt 
together and apply to the leather, which 
has been sufficiently warmed so that it will 
liquefy and absorb the fat. Another formu- 
la is as follows: 10 oz. Linseed Oil, 10 oz. 
Mutton Fat, 1 oz. Venice Turpentine 
melted together. Apply to the leather when 
dry and warm and it will preserve it against 
wet or snow. 



LIQUID JAPAN FOR LEATHER. 

Molasses, 8 lbs.; lampblack, 1 lb.; sweet 
oil 1 lb. ; gum arabic, 1 lb. ; Isinglass, 1 lb. 
Mix well in 32 lbs. water; apply heat; 
when cool, add 1 quart alcohol ; an ox's 
gall will improve it. 



28 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



WATERPROOF OIL-BLACKING. 

Camphene, 1 pint; add all the India- 
rubber it will dissolve; curriers' oil, 1 pint; 
tallow, 7 lbs.; lampblack, 2 oz. Mix thor- 
oughly by heat. 



TO REMOVE OIL STAINS FROM 
LEATHER. 

Cover the spot with Spirits of Sal-ammo- 
niac; allow it to act for a short time, clean- 
ing with clear water; repeat until the spot 
is removed, taking care not to afreet the 
color of the leather. 



BLACKINGS AND POLISHES FOR 
LEATHER HARNESSES, ETC. 

1. Harness Blacking. — Melt together 2 
oz. of Mutton Suet, 6 oz. of Beeswax. Add 
6 oz. of Sugar Candy, 2 oz. of Soft Soapj 
2y? oz. of Lampblack, J^ oz. of Pondered 
Indigo. Mix thoroughly and add 34 pint 
of oil of turpentine. 

2. Harness Blacking. — Melt together 4 
oz. of Gelatin, 3 oz. of Gum Arabic, y!\ 
pint of Water. Add when dissolved 7 oz. 
of Molasses, 5 oz. of Fine Powdered Ani- 
mal Charcoal. Heat gently, stirring all the 
time until the compound is of proper con- 
sistency when cold. Must be kept corked. 

3. Polish for Carriage Harness. — Dis- 
solve 3 sticks of black sealing wax in y 2 
pint of Alcohol and apply with a sponge. 

4. French Blacking to Restore Soiled 
Harness. — Take 4^ lb. of Stearine in thin 
sheets. Mix with 6^J lb. of Turpentine. 
Heat in a water bath, during continual 
stirring; then add 3 oz. of Animal Char- 
coal, place the whole in another vessel and 
stir so as to prevent its crystallization. It 
must be warmed when using and rubbed 
on with a cloth as quickly as possible, giv- 
ing it a very thin coat, and when nearly 
dry polish with a silk cloth. 



5. Waterproof Harness Paste. — Put into 
a glazed vessel and melt over a fire 28 oz. 
of black resin, when dissolved add 3 oz. of 
Beeswax. When this is melted remove 
from the fire and add T / 2 oz. of fine Lamp- 
black, Yz drm. of Prussian Blue in Powder. 
Stir well together and add Turpentine, 
enough to form a thin paste. Allow to 
cool. Apply with a sponge and polish with 
a soft brush. 

6. English Ball Blacking for Harness. — 
1 oz. of Lard, 1 oz. of Beesivax, 8 oz. of 
Ivory Black, 8- oz. of Sugar, 4 oz. of Lin- 
seed Oil, 2 oz. of JVater. Melt the wax 
and stir in the other ingredients, and when 
cold roll into balls and use. 

7. ] 7 aseline Harness Composition. — ^4 oz « 
of Prussian Blue in Powder, 4 oz. of Lamp- 
black, 2 oz. of Molasses, 2 oz. of Soft 
Castile Soap. Warm and mix together in 
a mortar. Then add 6 oz. of Vaseline, 5 
oz. of Ceres, J^ oz. of Yellow Resin. Melt 
together and add sufficient turpentine to 
give proper consistency. Mix thoroughly. 

8. Oil for Farm and Team Harness. — 
Melt 3 lb. pure Tallow, but do not heat it 
up to a boil; then pour in gradually 1 lb. 
neatsfoot oil, and stir until the mass is 
cold. If properly stirred, the two articles 
will become thoroughly mixed and the 
grease will be smooth and soft ; if not well 
stirred, the tallow will granulate. Add a 
little bone black for coloring. 



TO RESTORE SHABBY LEATHER. 

Shabby leather can be much improved 
by either Linseed Oil or the well-beaten 
Whites of Eggs mixed with suitable color- 
ing matter. The surface can be brought 
to a gloss by the use of a soft duster. 



LEATHER POLISHES, ETC. 



29 



BRILLIANT FRENCH VARNISH FOR 
LEATHER. 

Spirit of wine, }i pint ; vinegar, 5 pints ; 
gum Senegal in powder, y 2 lb.; loaf sugar, 
6 oz. ; powdered galls, 2 oz. ; green copperas, 
4 oz. Dissolve the gum and sugar in the 
water; strain, and put on a slow fire, but 
don't boil; now put in the galls, copperas, 
and the alcohol ; stir well for five minutes ; 
set off; and when nearly cool, strain 
through flannel, and bottle for use. It is 
applied with a pencil brush. 



HOW TO POLISH HARD FIBER. 

Hard fiber is used to a larger extent by 
amateurs in making wireless and electrical 
apparatus, but it has the disadvantage of ab- 
sorbing moisture and soon becoming a poor 
insulator. To overcome this difficulty I 
used the following method: After the fiber 
had been cut to size, sand-papered smooth 
and all holes drilled, soak a piece of waste 



in thin white shellac and place on the center 
of a piece of cloth which has been soaked 
in boiled linseed oil. Then bring the edges 
of the cloth up around the waste and twist 
up tight until the shellac begins coming 
through the cloth. Then rub the fiber 
firmly but rapidly with a circular motion, 
and continue rubbing until the shellac be- 
gins to get sticky. Do not stop with the 
cloth resting on the fiber as it is apt to leave 
a spot. Before the polish is put on the fiber 
should be left in a warm dry place for a 
day or so to expel all moisture. After one 
layer has dried, the fiber may be rubbed 
with fine steel wool and another coat of 
polish put on. About three or four coats 
should give a fine mirror-like polish. This 
is the way the finish is put on pianos, etc., 
and if the experimenter is careful, he should 
be able to attain good results after a few 
trials. To keep the moisture out the fiber 
should of course be covered completely with 
the polish. 






Metal-Craft. 



BLACKING OF METALS. 

( 1 ) Dead Black on Brass. — Take two 
parts of Hydrochloric Acid and one part of 
Nitric Acid. Mix in a glass bottle and put 
in as much platinum foil as the acid will 
dissolve, when placed in a warm sand bath. 
The solution obtained is Chloride of plati- 
num. Dip the article, after cleaning, in 
this soluton. This formula is of course 
expensive as ^2 oz. nitric and 1 oz. hydro- 
chloric acid will dissolve about 30 gr. of 
platinum, but a little of it will do a great 
deal of work. Very recommendable for 
optical instruments. 

(2) Dead Black on Brass. — The follow- 
ing formula is much cheaper and mostly 
used for inside of tubes, instruments, etc. 
Take 1 part of Alcoholic Shellac Varnish 
and 1 part of Lampblack. Mix and thin 
with enough alcohol to make it flow freely 
with the brush. 

(3) Dead Black on Brass. — A very per- 
manent and beautiful black used in the 
French manufacture of arms is obtained as 
follows: Take a strong solution of Nitrate 
of silver and another solution of Nitrate of 
Copper. Mix the two together and plunge 
the brass in it. Remove and heat the in- 
strument evenly until the required beautiful 
shade is obtained. 

(4) Blue Black Coating on Brass. — Dis- 
solve 7 oz. of copper carbonate in 1^ qt. 
of very strong ammonia. Dilute the solu- 
tion with 1 quart of rain water and dip the 
article in it. 

(5) Dull Black on Copper.— Take a 
solution of Platinum chloride and dilute 
same with five times its volume of distilled 
water (or pure rain water). Brush over 
the copper article with this solution and 
when thoroughly dry, rub off with an oiled 
flannel rag. 

(6) Gun Metal. — The process for black- 
ing gun barrels is the following: Take 2 
oz. of Solution of Nitric Acid; 4 oz. of 



Tincture of Iron, 3 oz. of best grade al- 
cohol, 3 oz. of sweet spirits of nitre, 1 oz. of 
Blue Vitriol, \y 2 pt. of distilled or rain 
water and mix together. Clean the gun 
barrel, remove all grease, then coat freely 
with the mixture, using a piece of sponge. 
Let dry in a cool place for about 10 hours; 
remove to a warm place and let stand until 
quite dry. The barrel must be dry and 
not sticky or the result will be a red color. 
Now rub the barrel firmly with lard, then 
boil for about 10 minutes in water, wipe 
thoroughly and let cool. Scrape to remove 
the dead rust, wipe with a clean rag, then 
begin the whole process over again for six 
times. The barrel requires six coats before 
it can be finished by oiling. 

(7) Black Polish for Iron and Steel. — 
Boil together 15 parts of oil of turpentine, 
\y 2 parts of sulphur. Coat the article very 
thinly with the mixture and heat over the 
flame of an alcohol lamp. 

(8) Stove Blacking {Paste). — A very 
permanent coating is obtained in mixing 5 
parts black lead, 5 parts bone black, 10 
parts iron sulphate. Use sufficient quan- 
tity of water to form a paste. 

(9) Stove Blacking {Liquid). — Mix to- 
gether 2y2 parts of bone black, 2^ parts 
of pulverized graphite, 5 parts of copperas, 
water in sufficient quantity to form a liquid, 
creamy substance. Shake bottle before 
using. This is an excellent polish produc- 
ing a jet black enamel adherent to the 
iron. 

(10) Black for Grates.— The Berlin 
stove grate makers use this formula: Melt 
5 lbs. Asphaltum and add 2 lbs. of boiled 
oil, 1 gal. of Spirits of Turpentine. Mix 
and apply with a brush. 



BLUING (COLORING STEEL). 

Small articles made of steel are very often 
blued. A very convenient method for the 
experimenter is to place the articles in an 
iron pan containing a quantity of clean dry 
sand over a fire. 



30 



METAL-CRAFT. 



31 



Move the pieces around constantly until 
the desired color is achieved, then remove 
and plunge into clean oil. It is very neces- 
sary that the metal to be colored is clean. 



TO GIVE STEEL A BLUE-BLACK COLOR. 

At times a blue-black color is preferable 
to a blue. Melt together in an iron dish 
10 parts of saltpeter and 1 part black oxid 
of manganese, and heat until a pine shav- 
ing thrown on the surface will catch fire. 
DO NOT ALLOW IT TO BOIL. 
Wire each piece of work and suspend in the 
mixture. Be sure that each article is com- 
pletely covered. Do not let them touch 
the container at any point. When the 
desired color is obtained, wash in hot wa- 
ter, dry in clean sawdust and oil. 



TO COLOR BRASS A STEEL-BLUE. 

Dissolve 3 drams antimony sulfid and 4 
oz. calcined soda in \y 2 pints of water. 
To this add 5j^ drams kermes. Filter and 
mix this solution with 5^4 drams tartar, 
11 drams sodium hyposulfite and 1^ pints 
of water. Polished sheet brass placed in 
the warm mixture will assume a steel-blue 
color. 



TO GIVE APPEARANCE OF CASE 
HARDENING. 

To 20 parts water add 1 part nitric acid. 
Immerse the piece in the solution for about 
30 seconds, remove and wash in clean wa- 
ter and oil. 



BLUINGS FOR METALS. 

Blue Finish. — Clean the article very care- 
fully. Make a mixture of 1 part of Nitric 
Acid, 10 parts of Water. Apply the liquid 
with a sponge until a blue film is produced. 
Wash with warm water ; dry with a flannel 
and wipe with Linseed Oil. 

Bluing Brass Like Steel. — Take a leaden 
vessel, put in sonic Hydrochloric Acid and 
very little of Arsenic Acid. 



The brass article is laid in this vessel and 
soon assumes iridescent tints. Remove 
when the desired shade is obtained ; wash 
with water and dry. 

Bluing Gun Barrels. — Dissolve 4^ oz. 
of Hyposulphite of Soda in 1 qt. of Water. 
Also dissolve \% oz. of Acetate of Lead in 
1 qt. of Water. Mix the two solutions 
and bring to a boil in a stone pot. After 
having thoroughly cleaned the barrel coat 
with the hot solution, using a piece of 
sponge tied to a stick of wood. When 
color develops, wash with water, dry with 
a piece of flannel and finish with Boiled 
Linseed Oil. 

Oxidizing Silver. — Boil the article in a 
mixture of 5 oz. of Bromine, 120 grains of 
Bromide of Potassium, 10 oz. of Water, 
in an earthenware pot for three to five 
minutes. Remove, dry and polish. 

Bluing of Steel. — Heat the steel over a 
flame of alcohol and varnish with a mix- 
ture of Prussian Blue and Alcoholic Shellac 
Varnish. Use a thin varnish. Of course 
this is only an imitation of bluing, and the 
article has to be lacquered to make it wear. 

Real Bluing of Steel. — This formula is 
used to blue revolver parts, vibrators, steel 
knives, etc. Mix carefully together 25 
parts of Trichloride of Antimony, 25 parts 
of Fuming Nitric Acid, 50 parts of Hydro- 
chloric Acid. Tie a rag to a stick and 
apply the mixture freely. After rubbing 
the article with a flannel it may be polished 
on a polishing head with a green oak wheel 
until an even, clear blue is obtained. 

Revolver Barrel Bluing. — Clean the bar- 
rel with emery cloth ; remove all grease 
with lime and polish the surface. Take 
fine and clean wood ashes in a muffle, put 
the barrel in the middle and heat the muffle 
to a temperature of cherry red. With a pair 
of tongs, remove the article from time to 
time to see if a dark blue can be obtained 
when cooled in the air. When the desired 
color is obtained take the barrel out and 
let it cool in the air. Finish with Boiled 
Oil and polish. 



32 



A THOLSASD A.SD OSE FORMULAS. 



Bluing Steel. — A mple process is 

the following : peter in an iron 

pot- Clean and polish the steel article and 
dip in the saltpeter until sufficiently blued. 
Remove and cool at once in Paraffine Oil. 
e with a flannel rag and dry in saw- 

Bluing Silver. — The oxidizing of silver 
is produced by placing the articles in a 
solution of Liver of Sulphur, diluted with 
Spirits of Sal Ammoniac. Allow to re- 
main until die desired dark bine-Ubdk lone 
is produced; then wash in water, dry and 
polish. 

Durable Blue on Iron and Steel without 
Heat — Fake a stone pot and mix together 
1 part of a J£% solution of Red Pms- 
siate of Potash, 1 part of a y 2 % solution 

:: J 7 .---:.- l ; :.V:.:V. Z .: rite ir:;:ies until 
the desired effect is produced. When dry, 

:..r irteies ~iy :e iniuere: 



COLORINGS FOR BRASS. 

Far.; — C : :ive 4 oz. of HyP&- 

sulphite of Soda in \% pts. of Water, then 
add a solution of 1 oz. of acetate of lead 
in 1 oz, of water. Place the article to be 
colored in the above mixture, and heat 
sZ.—'.y mi zriiuilly :: tie ::..:.: 
point. The brass articles become succes- 
.r red, deep blue, bluish white and 
finally white, with a tinge of pink. 

Steel Blue. — Dissolve 3 arms, of ants- 
mony sulphite, 4 oz. of calcined soda, \% 
pt. of water; add 5}4 drms. of Kermes. 
Filler mi nix this >;lu:::r. "tti ; : : iruii. 
of Tartar, 11 drms. of Hyposulphite of 
Soda, 1J4 pt. of water. Polish your brass 
article, heat your mixture lightly and then 
warm, place it in it. The brass article 
will take a beautiful steel blue color. 

Iridescent Broun Color. — Take the fol- 
lowing, and dissolve : 4 oz. of Hyposulphite 
of Soda, 1J4 pts. of water. Add to mis 
a solution of 1 oz. of Sulphate of copper in 
1 oz. of water. 



Heat gradually to the boiling point and 
place the object in the mixture. The brass 
article becomes first a fine rosy tint, then 
green, and finally iridescent brown. 

Beautiful Greenish Color. — Dissolve 30 
gr. of Hydrochlorate of Ammonia, 120 gr. 
Jpkate of Copper in 1 qt. of water. 
Boil the solution and put the brass articles 
into it. The duration of the immersion is 
responsible for the intensity of die shades. 

Patina. — To give brass articles an imita- 
: m ;: :i: :r:r.ze "mi- - :eiut:ul mem 
patina, use the following method : Dissolve 
1 oz, of copper in 2 oz. of Nitric acid, add 
:z. of ordinary Vinegar, and J£ oz. 
Ammonium chloride. The brass object is 
placed in this mixture for at least 4 or 5 
::.; 5 Retime ifter litis lime my etrerullv 
.v. : •' me " iti i rm mi . 

Red Gold Coloring. — The red gold imi- 
tation used by the French workmen on 
brass articles is obtained as follows: Mix 
together 30 parts of Alum, 30 parts of 
Nitrate of potassium, 30 parts of Red 
Ochre, 8 parts of Zinc, 1 part of Table 
salt, 1 part of Sulphate of iron. This mix- 
ture is applied with a soft brush and the 
article is placed over a clear charcoal fire, 
until tie villi ire rneliei mi ir:ei mi lite 
object assumes a brown aspect. It is then 
suddenly cooled in a weak solution of nitric 
acid and water containing 3 per cent of 
Hydrochloric acid. Wash afterwards 
abundantly in water, and dry in sawdust. 

Gilding Brass. — With the following 
method brass may be gilded so perfectly 
:; resis: lite rmrime miim :: :::::.: i:ii: 

Dissolve Mercury in Nitric Acid and 
dilute with rain water. Dip the article to 

: e z - 1 e i .:; :n : > mm r. :;.; ~ ~~. e : j t irie r - 
wards in a weak solution of Chloride of 






The philosophy of the action is as fol- 

The film of mercury, which is elec- 

:::-::■ iiive :: zi'.i : , i i : 1 es :r. :i".e :itim:ie 

of gold solution, and a film of gold is elec- 

trolytically deposited in its place. 



METAL-CRAFT. 



33 



Dull Brass. — The German process to 
produce an artistic dull on brass is very 
easily obtained : Mix together 1 oz. of Iron 
Oxide j 1 oz. of white arsenic, 12 oz. of 
Hydrochloric acid. Apply with a brush 
after having cleaned the article thoroughly. 
Oil well, dry and lacquer. 

Orange Gold Color on Brass. — Clean 
and polish the object and plunge it for less 
than a minute in a warm neutral solution 
of Crystallized copper-acetate. The brass 
should be heated previously to a degree 
just tolerable to the touch. 

Bronzing Brass. — To bronze a brass ar- 
ticle very quick and durably take a strong 
solution of Nitrate of copper. Boil the ob- 
ject in it. The shade to be attained varies 
with the length of boiling. 



careful to prevent formation of lumps. Ap- 
ply with a rag or waste, and when prac- 
tically dry rub with another rag or waste. 



BRASS CLEANING PASTE. 

The following makes a good cleaning 
paste: Rotten Stone, 6 oz. ; Oxalic Acid, 1 
oz. ; equal parts of Whale Oil and Spirits 
of Turpentine sufficient to make a paste. 

A general metal polishing paste may be 
made as follows, the quantity of the parts 
being by weight: Petroleum Jelly (white), 
90 parts; Kieselguhr, 30 parts; Refined 
Paraffine Wax, 10 parts; Refined Chalk or 
Whiting, 10 parts; Sodium Hypophosphite, 
8 parts. A little Citronelle can be added to 
cover up disagreeable odors and scent to 
paste. 

A polishing powder may be made as fol- 
lows, the quantities being by weight: Putty 
Powder, 14 parts; Pipe Clay, 14 parts; 
Kieselguhr, 42 parts; Tartaric Acid (pow- 
dered), \ l / 2 parts. 



BRASS POLISH. 



This formula consists of the following: 
16 lb. Crude Oleic Acid, 5 lb. Kieselguhr, 
4 lb. Tasteless Mineral Oil, lj4 oz. Lemon 
Oil. Mix the powders into a paste and 
gradually thin with the mixed fluids, being 



BRONZING COMPOSITIONS. 

Silver White Bronzing Powder. — Melt 
together 1 oz. each, bismuth and tin, then 
add 1 oz. quickened, cool and powder. 

Gold Colored Bronze Powder. — Verdi- 
gris, 8 ozs. ; putty powder, 4 ozs. ; borax 
and nitrate, of each 2 ozs. ; bichloride of 
mercury, y 2 oz. ; make into a paste with oil 
and fuse them together. Used in japanning 
as a gold color. 

Beautiful Red Bronze Powder. — Sul- 
phate of copper, 100 parts; carbonate of 
soda, 60 parts; apply heat until they unite 
into a mass. 

Antique Bronze Paint. — Sal ammoniac, 
1 oz. ; cream of tartar, 3 oz. ; common salt, 
6 ozs. ; dissolve in 1 pt. hot water ; then 
add nitrate of copper, 2 ozs. ; dissolve in l /> 
pt. of water; mix well and apply it to the 
article in a damp place with a brush. 

Blue Bronze on Copper. — Clean and pol- 
ish well, then cover the surface with a fluid 
obtained by dissolving vermillion in a warm 
solution of sodium, to which some caustic 
potash has been added. 

Bronze Dip. — Sal ammoniac, 1 oz. ; salt 
of sorrel (binoxolate of potash), *4 oz - - 
dissolved in vinegar. 

Parisian Bronze Dip. — Sal ammoniac, J a 
oz. ; common salt, y 2 oz. ; spirits of harts- 
horn, 1 oz. ; dissolved in an English qt. of 
vinegar. A good result will be obtained by 
adding l / 2 oz. sal ammoniac instead of spts. 
of hartshorn; the piece of metal when well 
cleaned is to be nibbed with one of these 
solutions, then dried by friction with a fresh 
brush. 

Green Dip. — Wine vinegar, 2 qts. ; verdi- 
gris, 2 o/s. ; sal ammoniac, 1 oz. ; salt, 2 
o/s. ; alum, T j oz. ; French berries, 8 o 
boil the ingredients together. 



34 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Aquafortis Dip. — Nitric acid, $ ozs.; 
muriatic acid, 1 qt. ; sal ammoniac, 2 ozs. ; 
alum, 1 oz. ; salt, 2 ozs. 

Olive Bronze Dip for Brass. — Nitric 
acid, 3 ozs. ; muriatic acid, 2 ozs. ; add titan- 
ium or palladium, when the metal is dis- 
solved add 2 gals, pure soft water to each 
pt. of the solution. 

Brown Bronze Paint for Copper Vessels. 
— Tinct. of steel, 4 ozs.; spts. of nitre, 4 
ozs. ; blue vitriol, 1 oz. ; water, J / 2 pt. ; mix 
in a bottle, apply it with a fine brush, the 
vessel being full of boiling water. Varnish 
after the application of the bronze. 

Bronze for All Kinds of Metal— Muri- 
ate of ammonia (sal ammoniac), 3 drs. ; 
oxalic acid, 1 dr. ; vinegar, 1 pt. ; dissolve 
the oxalic acid first; let the work be clean, 
put on the bronze with a brush, repeating 
the operation as many times as may be 
necessary. 

Green Bronze. — Dissolve 2 ozs. nitrate 
of iron, and 2 ozs. hyposulphate of soda in 
1 pt. of water; immerse the article until 
the required shade is obtained, as almost 
any shade from brown to red can be ob- 
tained according to the time of immersion, 
then wash well with water, dry and brush. 

Pale Deep Olive Green Bronze. — Per- 
chloride of iron, 1 part; water, 2 parts. 
Mix and immerse the brass. 

Dark Green. — Saturate nitric acid with 
copper and immerse the brass. 

Dead Black for Brass Work. — Rub the 
surface first with tripoli, then wash it with 
a solution of 1 part, neutral nitrate of tin, 
with 2 parts, chloride of gold, after 10 
minutes wipe it off with a wet cloth. 

Best Bronze for Brass. — Take 1 lb. of 
nitric acid, and y 2 lb. of white arsenic, put 
them into an earthen vessel and then pro- 
ceed in the usual manner. 

Another Bronze for Brass. — 1 oz. muri- 
ate of ammonia, y 2 oz. alum, y± oz. arsenic, 
dissolve together in 1 pt. of strong vinegar. 



Black Dip for Brass. — Hydrochloric 
acid (commonly called smoking salts), 12 
lbs. ; sulphate of iron, 1 lb. ; and pure white 
arsenic, 1 lb. This dip is used in all the 
large factories in Birmingham, but the dip 
used in the London trade is 2 ozs. corrosive 
sublimate, in 1 pt. of the best vinegar, cork 
both in an air-tight bottle, let it stand 24 
hours; then it is fit for use. 

Quick Bright Dip for Brass. — Use strong 
nitric acid in sufficient quantity, dip your 
brass in the liquid for an instant, withdraw, 
and immediately immerse it first in cold 
water, and then in boiling water, for a short 
time only in each bath, then allow it to dry ; 
repeat the process if necessary. 

Application of Bronze Powder. — The 
proper way is to varnish the article and then 
dust the bronze powder over it after the 
varnish is partly dry. 

Black Color for Brass Work. — Make a 
strong solution of nitrate of silver, and nit- 
rate of copper separately. Mix the two to- 
gether and plunge in the brass. Now heat 
the brass evenly till the required degree of 
blackness is acquired. Unrivalled as a beau- 
tiful color on optical instruments. 



ORMOLU COLORING LACQUERS, ETC. 

Ormolu coloring. — Alum, 30 parts; nit- 
rate of potassa, 30 parts; red ochre, 30 
parts; sulphate of zinc, 8 parts; common 
salt, 1 part ; sulphate of iron, 1 part. It is 
applied with a soft brush. The articles are 
placed over a clear charcoal fire until the 
salts, melted and dried, assume a brown as- 
pect. They are then suddenly cooled in 
nitric acid water, containing 3 per cent of 
hydrochloric acid, afterwards, washed in 
abundance of water and dried in sawdust. 

To Prepare Brass Work for Ormolu Dip- 
ping.— It the work is oily, boil it in lye, 
and if it is finished work, filed or turned, 
dip it in old acid, and it is then ready to 
be ormolued, but if it is unfinished and 



METAL-CRAFT. 



35 



free from oil, pickle it in strong sulphuric 
acid, dip in pure nitric acid, and then in 
the old acid, after which it will be ready 
for ormoluing. 

To Repair Old Nitric Acid Ormolu 
Dips. — If the work after dipping appears 
coarse and spotted, add vitriol till it answers 
the purpose; if the work after dipping ap- 
pears too smooth, add muriatic acid and 
nitrate till it gives the right appearance. 
The other ormolu dips should be repaired 
according to the recipes, putting in the 
proper ingredients to strengthen them. 
They should not be allowed to settle, but 
should be stirred often while using. 

Directions for Making Lacquer. — Mix 
the ingredients, and let the vessel contain- 
ing them stand in the sun, or in a place 
slightly warmed, 3 or 4 days, shaking it 
frequently till gum is dissolved, after which 
let it settle from 24 to 48 hours, when the 
clear liquor may be poured off for use. 
Pulverized glass is sometimes used in mak- 
ing lacquer to carry down the impurities. 

Lacquer for Dipped Brass. — Alcohol, (95 
per cent) 2 gals.; seed lac, 1 lb.; gum co- 
pal, 1 oz. ; English saffron, 1 oz. ; annatto, 
1 oz. 

Lacquer for Bronzed Brass. — To 1 pt. 
of the above lacquer add gamboge, 1 oz., 
and, after mixing it, add an equal quantity 
of the first lacquer. 

Deep Gold Colored Lacquer. — Best alco- 
hol, 4 ozs. ; Spanish annatto, 8 oz. ; tur- 
meric, 2 drs. ; shellac, J / 2 oz. ; red sanders, 
12 grs. ; when dissolved, add spts. of turpen- 
tine, 30 drops. 

Deep Gold Colored Lacquer for Brass 
Not Dipped. — Alcohol, 4 gals. ; turmeric, 3 
lbs. ; gamboge, 3 ozs. ; gum sandarac, 7 lbs. ; 
shellac, \ l / 2 lbs.; turpentine varnish, 1 pt. 

Gold Colored Lacquer for Dipped Brass. 
— Alcohol, 36 ozs. ; amber, 2 ozs. ; gum 
gutta, 2 ozs. ; red sandal wood, 24 grs. ; 
dragon's blood, 60 grs. ; oriental saffron, 36 
grs. ; pulverized glass, 4 ozs. 



Gold Lacquer for Brass. — Seed lac, 6 
ozs.; amber or copal, 2 ozs. ; best alcohol, 4 
gals.; pulverized glass, 4 ozs.; dragon's 
blood, 40 grs. ; extract of red sandal wood 
obtained by water, 30 grs. 



LACQUER FOR DIPPED BRASS. 

Alcohol, 12 gals; seed lac, 8 lbs.; tur- 
meric, 1 lb. to a gal. of the above mixture ; 
Spanish saffron, 4 ozs. The saffron is to 
be added for bronzed work. 



GOOD LACQUER. 

Alcohol, 8 ozs. ; gamboge, 1 oz. ; shellac, 
3 ozs. ; annatto, 1 oz. ; solution of 3 ozs. of 
seed lac in 1 pt. alcohol. When dissolved, 
add y 2 oz. Venice turpentine, % oz. drag- 
on's blood, will make it dark. Keep it in a 
warm place 4 or 5 days. 



PALE LACQUER FOR TIN PLATE. 

Best alcohol, 8 ozs.; turmeric, 4 drs.; 
hay saffron, 2 drs.; dragon's blood, 4 drs.; 
red sanders, 1 dr. ; shellac, 1 oz. ; gum san- 
darac, 2 drs.; gum mastic, 2 drs.; Canada 
balsam, 2 drs.; when dissolved, add spts. 
turpentine, 80 drops. 



RED LACQUER FOR BRASS. 

Alcohol, 8 gals.; dragon's blood, 4 lbs.; 
Spanish annatto, 12 lbs.; gum sandarac, 13 
lbs. ; turpentine, 1 gal. 



PALE LACQUER FOR BRASS. 

Alcohol, 2 gals.; cape aloes, cut small, 3 
ozs.; pale shellac, 1 lb.; gamboge, 1 oz. 



BEST LACQUER FOR BRASS. 

Alcohol, 4 gals. ; shellac, 2 lbs. ; amber 
gum, 1 lb. ; copal, 20 o/^. ; seed lac, 3 lbs. ; 
saffron to color; pulverized ^lass, 8 ozs. 



COLOR FOR LACQUER. 

Alcohol, 1 qt. ; annatto, 4 ozs. 



J 



36 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



GILDER'S PICKLE. 

Alum and common salt, each, 1 oz. ; 
nitre, 2 ozs. ; dissolved in water, y 2 pt. 
Used to impart a rich yellow color to gold 
surfaces. It is best largely diluted with 
water. 



QUICK BRONZING LIQUIDS. 

For Immediate Action on Copper, Brass, 
or Zinc. — Broivn or Dark Bronze for Cop- 
per, Brass or Zinc. — Dissolve 5 drachms 
nitrate of iron in 1 pt. of water; or, 5 drs. 
perchloride of iron in 1 pt. water. A black 
may also be obtained from 10 ozs. muriate 
of arsenic in 2 pts. permuriate of iron, and 
1 pt. water. 

Brown or Red Bronzing for Brass. — Dis- 
solve 16 drs. nitrate of iron, and 16 drs. hy- 
posulphate of soda, in 1 pt. water, or, 1 dr. 
nitric acid may be substituted for the nitrate 
of iron. 

Red Brown Bronzing for Brass. — Dis- 
solve 1 oz. nitrate of copper, and 1 oz. ox- 
alic acid in 1 pt. water, brought to the boil 
and then cooled. 

Dark Brown Bronzing for Brass. — Mix 
1 oz. cyanide of potassium, and 4 drs. nitric 
acid, with 1 pt. water. 

Red Bronzing for Brass. — Mix 30 grs. 
tersulphate of arsenic, 6 drs. solution of 
pearlash, and 1 pt. water. 

Orange Bronzing on Brass. — Mix 1 dr. 
potash solution of sulphur with 1 pt. water. 

Olive Green Bronze for Brass. — Dissolve 

1 pt. permuriate of iron in 2 pts. water. 

Slate-Colored Bronzing for Brass. — Dis- 
solve 2 drs. sulphocyanide of potassium, and 
5 drs. perchloride of iron, in 1 pt. water. 

Steel Grey Bronzing for Brass. — Mix 1 
oz. muriate of arsenic with 1 pt. water, and 
use at a heat not less than 180 degrees Fahr. 

Bright Red Bronzing for Copper. — Mix 

2 drs. sulphide of antimony and 1 oz. pearl- 
ash in 1 pt. water. 

Dark Red Bronze for Copper. — Dissolve 
1 dr. sulphur and 1 oz. pearlash in 1 pt. 
water. 



Copper Colored Bronzing for Zinc. — 
Agitate the articles in a solution of 8 drs. 
sulphate of copper, and 8 drs. hyposulphate 
of soda in 1 pt. water. 



BRONZING FLUID. 

(For brown). Iron filings or scales, 1 
pound, arsenic 2 ounces, hydrochloric acid, 
1 pound; metallic zinc, 1 ounce. The ar- 
ticle to be bronzed is dipped in this solu- 
tion till the desired effect is produced. 



BRONZING COPPER. 

Castor oil, 20 parts; Alcohol, 80 parts; 
Soft soap, 40 parts ; water, 40 parts. After 
copper has been scoured, cover with the 
above mixture until the desired color is ob- 
tained. Then dry in hot sawdust and coat 
with dilute varnish. 



A GOOD SILVER POLISH. 

Mix together one-half ounce of fine salt, 
one-half ounce of powdered alum and one- 
half ounce of common cream of tartar. 
Put them into a large porcelain pitcher and 
pour on two quarts of water and stir till 
entirely dissolved. Now transfer the mix- 
ture to clean bottles and cork tightly. Be- 
fore using, shake well. Pour a little of 
the liquid out into a bowl and wash the 
silver all over with it, using an old linen 
cloth. Let it stand for 10 or 15 minutes, 
and rub off dry with a buckskin. The silver 
will look like new. 



METAL POLISH. 



A good metal polish may be made as 
follows: Take wood alcohol, 3 parts; aqua 
ammonia, 1 part; prepared chalk, J^ part. 
Apply the polish with a flannel and when 
dry wipe off. Shake the polish before using 
to get the chalk stirred up. 



ALUMINUM POLISH. 

An emulsion of equal parts of Rum and 
Olive Oil can be used for cleaning 
aluminum. 



METAL-CRAFT. 



37 



Potash Lye j not too strong, is also ef- 
fective in brightening aluminum; Benzol 
is also used. 

A good polish for aluminum consists of 
a paste formed of Emery and Tallow, the 
finish luster being obtained by the use of 
Rouge Powder with Oil of Turpentine. 



Composition of Alloys (Cont.) 



ALUMINUM LACQUER. 

For aluminum dissolve 100 parts Gum 
Lac in 300 parts Ammonia, heating for 
one hour over a Water bath, paint the 
thoroughly cleaned aluminum with the var- 
nish and heat it to about 570 degrees Fahr. 



COMPOSITION OF ALLOYS. 

The number of alloy compositions such 
as bronze, brass and babbitts which are 
now placed on the market by various com- 
panies are almost innumerable, each con- 
taining various proportions, and some hav- 
ing special ingredients but nearly all con- 
tain practically the same combination as a 
basis. In almost every case the composi- 
tion is varied slightly according to the uses 
to which the part cast from the alloy is to 
be put. 

In general the composition of the most 
common alloys is as given in the accompany- 
ing table: 

Table of Composition of Common Alloys 



Alloys 



2? C3 % rt 

U N < k1 



Babbitt's metal 10 1 .. 

Bell-Metal 5 16 .. 

Brass, engine bearing. 13 112 T /i 

Brass, locomotive 

bearings 7 64 1 

Brass, for straps and 

glands 16 130 1 

Flanges to stand braz- 
ing 32 1 

Muntz's 6heathing 6 4 



% S => 

§• .1 a si 



Alloys .3 o .3 

m* i _, . H U N < 
Metal to expand in 

cooling 2 9 1 

Pewter 100 . . . . 17 

Spelter 1 1 

Statuary Bronze 2 90 5 .. 2 .. 

Tough brass, engine 

work 15 100 15 

Tough brass, for 

heavy bearings 25 160 5 

Yellow Brass, for 

turning 2 1 

Solders 

For brazing (hardest) .. 3 1 

For brazing (hard).. .. 1 1 

For brazing (soft)... 1 4 3 

For brazing (soft) 

or 2 . . . . 1 . . 

For lead 1 lY 2 .. 

For pewter 2 1 

For tin 1 2 



A GOOD TEST FOR COPPER. 

First take the solution supposed to con- 
tain copper and put it in a shallow vessel. 
When the solution is ready immerse a piece 
of iron or steel that has been cleaned of 
all rust. If the solution contains copper 
the iron or steel will be coated with metal- 
lic copper. Should copper not show in this 
test, pour in the so) Aion a little ammonia ; 
if copper is present a light blue precipitate 
will form and the solution will take on a 
blue color. 



ALLOYS. 



German Silver, First Quality Castings — ■ 
Copper 50 lbs. ; zinc 25 lbs. ; Nickel 25 
lbs. 

German Silver for Rolling — Copper 50 
lbs.; zinc 20 lbs.; nickel 25 lbs. 

German Silver for lulls and other Cast- 
ings — Copper (>0 lbs.; /inc 20 lbs.; nickel 
20 lbs.; lead 3 lbs.; iron, (that of tin plate 
LS the best) 2 lbs. 



38 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Alfenide — Contains a trace of iron, cop- 
per 60 parts; zinc 30 parts; nickel 10 parts. 

Fine Silver Colored Metal— -Tin 100 
lbs. ; antimony 8 lbs. ; copper 4 lbs. ; bis- 
muth 1 lb. 

Genuine German Silver — Iron 2^ 
parts; nickel 31^2 parts; zinc 25 l /2 parts; 
copper 40 parts. 



RELATIVE ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY 

OF DIFFERENT METALS AND 

ALLOYS. 

Relative 
Metals Conduc- 

tivity 

Pure silver 100. 

Pure copper 100. 

Refined and crystallized copper 99.9 

Telegraphic silicious bronze 98. 

Alloy of copper and silver (50%) 86.65 

Pure gold 78. 

Silicide of copper, 4% Si 75. 

Silicide of copper, 12% Si 54.7 

Pure aluminum 54.2 

Tin with 12% of sodium 46.9 

Telephonic silicious bronze 35. 

Copper with 10% of lead 30. 

Pure zinc 29.9 

Telephonic phosphor-bronze 29. 

Silicious brass, 25% zinc 26.4 

Brass with 35% zinc 21.59 

Phosphor-tin 17.7 

Alloy of gold and silver (50%) 16.12 

Swedish iron 16.4 

Pure Banca Tin 15.5 

Antimonial copper 12.7 

Aluminum bronze (10%) 12.6 

Siemens steel 12. 

Pure platinum 10.6 

Copper with 10% of nickel 10.6 

Cadmium Amalgam (15%) 10.2 

Dronier mercurial bronze 10.14 

Arsenical copper ( 10% ) 9.1 

Pure lead 8.88 

Bronze with 20% of tin 8.4 

Pure nickel 7.89 

Phosphor-bronze, 10% tin 6.5 

Phosphor copper, 9% phos 4.9 

Antimony 3.88 



SUNDRY COMPOSITIONS. 

Organ Pipe Metal — Consists of lead al- 
loyed with about half its quantity of tin to 
harden it. Lead 100; tin 33 parts; or lead 
100 and tin 20 parts answer very well. The 
mottled or crystalline appearance so much 
admired shows an abundance of tin. 

Cannon Metal — Tin 10 parts; copper 90 
parts. 

Gong Metal — Copper, 78 parts; tin, 22 
parts. 

Alloy for Cymbals — Copper, 80 parts; 
tin, 20 parts. 

Cock Metal — Copper 20 lbs. ; lead 8 lbs. ; 
litharge 1 oz. ; antimony 3 ozs. 

Metal for taking Impressions — Lead 3 
lbs. ; tin 2 lbs. ; bismuth 5 lbs. 

Electrum — Copper 8; nickel 4; zinc 3^ 
parts. This compound is unsurpassed for 
ease of workmanship and beauty of appear- 
ance. 

Alloy, for Mechanical Instruments — 
Copper 1 lb. ; tin 1 oz. 

Fusible Metals — Melt together: 8 parts 
of bismuth; 3 parts of tin; 5 parts of lead. 
This mixture becomes liquid at 212 deg. 
Fahr. 

Another — Melt together: 2 parts of Cad- 
mium; 2 parts of lead; 4 parts of tin. Melt- 
ing point 187 deg. Fahr. 



AMALGAM RECIPES. 

Tin and mercury combine readily at or- 
dinary temperatures. If 3 parts mercury 
be brought into contact with 1 of tin 6- 
sided crystals of tin amalgam are formed. 
Tin amalgam is used for silvering looking 
glasses. When pulverized and rubbed on 
the polishing stone it forms a kind of mosaic 
silver. Electric amalgam may be made by 
melting tin and zinc together in various 
proportions in a porcelain crucible. The 
mixture is well stirred up, and when on the 
point of solidifying the mercury is added 
and worked into the mass. The whole is 



METAL-CRAFT. 



39 



next transferred to a mortar warm enough 
to keep the amalgam soft, while it is well 
worked together, after which a piece of tal- 
low or lard, not quite equal in bulk to the 
mass, is kneaded in until the amalgam at- 
tains the proper consistency. 



HOW TO MAKE ALLOYS. 

For Cliches or Printing Plates. — Tin, 48 
parts; lead, 32.5 parts; bismuth, 10.5 parts; 
antimony, 9 parts. 

For Candlesticks, Spoons, Vessels. — Tin, 
80 parts; lead, 20 parts. 

For Imitation Silverware. — Tin, 92 
parts; lead, 8 parts. 

For Pieces of Jewelry; or Substitute for 
Silver. — Tin, 80 parts; antimony, 20 parts. 

For Fusible Metal. — Bismuth, 50 parts; 
lead, 30 parts; tin, 20 parts. 

Brass for Medals. — Copper, 95 parts; 
tin, 4 parts; zinc, 1 part. 

Brass for Cymbals and Kettledrums. — 
Copper, 80 parts; tin, 20 parts. 

Brass for Bells— -Copper, 77 parts; tin, 
23 parts. 

Substitute for Gold. — Copper, 94 parts; 
antimony, 6 parts; magnesium carbonat, 
1/3 part. 



IMITATION GOLD. 

Take 16 parts of platina, 7 parts copper, 
1 part zinc, put in covered crucible, with 
powdered charcoal and melt together till 
the whole forms one mass and all are thor- 
oughly incorporated. Or take 4 oz. platina, 
3 oz. silver and 1 oz. copper. 



SUBSTITUTE FOR GOLD. 

A substitute for gold is obtained by com- 
bining 94 parts of copper with 6 parts of 
antimony and adding a little magnesium 
carbonate to increase the weight. It is 
said that this alloy can be drawn, wrought 
and soldered very much like gold, and that 
it also takes and retains a gold polish. It 
is worth 25 cents a pound. 



A GOOD SOLDERING SOLUTION. 

Procure about 5 cents' worth of muriatic 
acid and add as much pure zinc as it will 
dissolve. If a little rain-water is added it 
will somewhat improve the mixture. The 
articles to be soldered should be thoroughly 
cleaned of every trace of dirt. The solder- 
ing solution is next applied with a wire 
brush to the cleaned surface. With this 
solution the solder will stick every time. 



SOLDERS. 

1. Plumbers Solder. — Lead, 2 parts; 
Tin, 1 part. 

2. Tinmen s Solder. — Lead, 1 part; Tin, 

1 part. 

3. Zinc Solder. — Tin, 1 part; Lead, 1 to 

2 parts. 

4. Spelter Solder. — Equal parts Copper 
and Zinc. 

5. Glazier s Solder. — Tin, 3 parts; Lead, 
1 part. 

6. Solder for Copper. — Copper, 10 parts; 
Zinc, 9 parts. 

7. Brass Solder. — Copper, 61.25 parts; 
Zinc, 38.75 parts. 

8. Brass Solder, White.— Copper, 57.41 
parts; Tin, 14.60 parts; Zinc, 27.99 parts. 

9. Black Solder. — Copper, 2 parts; Zinc, 

3 parts; Tin, 2 parts. 

10. Cold Brazing Without Fire or Lamp. 
— Fluoric Acid, 1 oz. ; Oxy-muriatic Acid, 
1 oz. ; mix in a lead bottle. Put a chalk 
mark each side where you want to braze. 
This mixture will keep about six months 
in one bottle. 

11. To Solder Iron to Steel or Either to 
Brass. — Tin, 3 parts; Copper, 39j/j parts; 
Zinc, 7*/ parts. When applied in a molten 
state it will firmly unite metals first named 
to each other. 

12. Plumbers' Solder. — Bismuth, 1 part J 
Lead, 5 parts; Tin, 3 parts; is a first-class 
composition. 

13. Solder for Brass That Will Stand 
Hammering* — Brass, 78.Jt> parts; Zinc, 
17.41 parts; Silver, 4.33 parts; :u\d a little 
chloride of potassium to your borax for 
a flux. 



40 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



14. Solder for Steel Joints. — Silver, 19 
parts ; Copper, 1 part ; Brass, 2 parts. Melt 
all together. 

15. Hard Solder. — Copper, 2 parts; 
Zinc, 1 part. Melt together. 

16. Solder for Brass. — Copper, 3 parts; 
Zinc, 1 part; with Borax. 

17. Solder for Copper. — Brass, 6 parts; 
Zinc, 1 part ; Tin, 1 part ; melt all together 
well and pour out to cool. 

18. Solder for Iron. — The best solder for 
iron is good tough brass with a little borax. 

N. B. — In soldering, the surfaces to be 
joined are made perfectly clean and smooth, 
and then covered with sal-ammoniac, resin 
or other flux, the solder is then applied, 
being melted on and smoothed over by a 
tinned soldering iron. 

Soldering Fluid. — Take 2 oz. Muriatic 
Acid; add Zinc till bubbles cease to rise; 
add Yz teaspoonful of Sal- Ammoniac. 



COLD SOFT SOLDER. 

Everyone at some time or other has had 
occasion to solder two 'pieces of metal, 
which because of their composition, or be- 
cause of attached parts, could not be raised 
to the temperature that even soft solder 
flows at. The following solder meets that 
demand, as it can be used without heat. 

Precipitate some copper from a copper 
solution, such as copper sulphate or copper 
nitrate by means of zinc or iron filings. 
Into a mortar pour some mercury and the 
copper precipitate. Add a few drops of 
dilute sulphuric acid and grind until the 
copper has united with the mercury. Wash 
the amalgam with water till bright and 
clean. Put into a cloth to dry and by means 
of a twisting motion, like grapes are 
strained, squeeze out the excess of mercury 
until the copper amalgam is just workable 
by the fingers. Rub well into the surfaces 
to be joined, and press together over night. 



Some of the mercury penetrates the sur- 
faces, and some of the copper crystalizes 
out, and the compound becomes very hard. 
Strange to say, this compound is silver 
white. By using more mercury, a pliable 
metal is obtained that hardens slowly. If 
the solder is too hard, grind up with more 
mercury. Keep gold and silver jewelry, 
etc., out of the way, as mercury destroys 
them. 



SOLDERING IRREGULAR PIECES. 

To solder accurately irregular pieces of 
metal or the parts of a broken piece, press 
the parts into a lump of putty, placed on 
a piece of tinplate. Having thus formed a 
mould, remove and dry the putty with a 
gas jet. This burns the oil in the putty. 
When the mould is ready replace the pieces 
and also some solder in small pieces. Use 
a gas jet or blow-torch to heat same and 
do not remove the parts until quite cool. 



"SOLDER" FOR METAL, GLASS AND 
PORCELAIN. 

A soft alloy ' which adheres to metal, 
glass and porcelain and can be used in the 
same manner as soft solder is prepared from 
powdered copper (copper dust) which may 
be obtained by stirring a solution of blue 
vitriol with granulated tin. The solution 
becomes considerably heated and a fine 
brown .powder is precipitated. ' Of this 
copper dust, 20 or 36 parts by weight, ac- 
cording to the desired hardness of the solder, 
are mixed in a cast-iron or a porcelain mor- 
tar with sulphuric acid of 1.85 specific 
gravity to the consistency of paste, and 70 
parts of mercury added with constant stir- 
ring. 

When the amalgam is thoroughly mixed 
it is carefully washed with water to remove 
all traces of acid, and then cooled off. In 
10 or 12 hours the mass becomes very hard. 



METAL-CRAFT. 



41 



When the solder is to be used it should be 
heated to about 400 degrees Fahrenheit, in 
which condition it can be kneaded like wax 
in an iron mortar. In this plastic state it 
is applied to the broken surfaces, which 
are then pressed together, and when cooled 
the amalgam adheres very firmly. 



SOLDERING FLUXES. 

AN EXCELLENT SOLDERING FLUX. 

This may be made by saturating a solu- 
tion of zinc chloride in water and adding 
by weight one-tenth part of ammonium 
chloride. It is claimed that with this flux 
it is possible to solder enamel ware. This 
is impossible with most other fluxes. 

A GOOD FLUX FOR SOLDERING TINFOIL. 

This flux can be made by mixing sal- 
ammoniac (ammonium chloride) with vase- 
line and parafEne so as to form a paste. 
When soldering tinfoil it is advisable to 
lay the tinfoil on a sheet of copper, which 
conducts the heat away from the tinfoil. 
Otherwise the foil would be likely to melt. 



SOLDERING WRINKLES. 

Following are several hints on solders and 
soldering fluxes. A Valuable Soldering 
Liquid: Cut zinc into small pieces, dissolve 
in hydrochloric acid, add one-fourth part of 
the solution of ammonia and dilute with 
water. Dissolve in twelve parts of water 
one and one-half parts of glycerine and one 
and one-half parts lactic acid. 

Soldering Paste: Make a syrup of starch 
paste with a solution of chloride of tin. 

Fluxes for Welding: A secret well worth 
knowing is as follows: Take 6 ounces of 
common salt, 1 ounce of black oxide of 
manganese, 2 ounces of copperas, 1 ounce 
of saltpeter, 1 ounce of prussiate of potash ; 
pulverize and mix with 3 pounds of weld- 
ing sand. 

Solders— How They Are Made. Soft 
spelter is made of 1 part copper, 1 part 
zinc. 



Hard spelter, 2 parts copper, 1 of zinc; 
plumbers' coarse solder, 1 part tin, 3 lead; 
plumbers' seal solder tin 1, lead 2; tin- 
ners' solder, tin lj^, lead 1 ; hard solder for 
copper; brass and iron, copper 2, zinc 1; 
silver solder for jewelers, silver 19, cop- 
per 1, brass 1 ; silver solder for plating, sil- 
ver 2, brass 1 ; silver for silver brass and 
iron, silver 1, brass 1 ; gold solder, gold 12, 
silver 2, copper 4; bismuth solder, lead 4, 
tin 4, bismuth 1. 



HOW TO SOLDER ALUMINUM. 

There are various compounds on the mar- 
ket for soldering aluminum, but this opera- 
tion depends more on the workman than 
on the solder and unless considerable ex- 
perience has been had it is probably better 
to purchase solder than to attempt making 
it. Zinc can be used but does not form a 
very strong joint. Tin can also be used, 
is more nearly the color of aluminum, is 
stronger than zinc, but is very difficult to 
work. A small proportion of phosphor tin 
added to pure tin makes it work more 
readily and is the basis of most aluminum 
solder. 

The chief difficulty in soldering alumi- 
num is that the heat is dissipated so rapid- 
ly that it cools the soldering iron and fur- 
thermore aluminum oxidizes instantly upon 
exposure to the air. This extremely thin 
film effectually prevents a perfect union 
being made. If the parts are well heated 
and melted solder kept hot while the iron 
is allowed to stand on it, the surface can 
be scraped beneath the melted solder by 
the point of the soldering iron, thus pre- 
venting to a certain extent the oxidization. 
In this way the metal can be tinned. When 
both parts to be brought together are well 
tinned, the parts can be united with some 
chance of success, nitrat of silver, resin, or 
zinc chlorid being used as a flux. A solder- 
ing tool of nickel gives more satisfactory 
results than a copper one as the latter al- 
loys with the tin and soon becomes rough. 



42 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Cleaning the Metal: If the surface is 
of such a shape that it cannot be readily 
cleaned by scraping, it can be cleaned by 
dipping it into a solution of nitric acid in 
three times its bulk of hot water contain- 
ing about 5 per cent of commercial hydro- 
fluoric acid. This causes a slight action 
on the surface of the metal as shown by 
bubbles. Rinse the metal after removing 
from the acid bath and dry in hot sawdust. 



ALUMINUM SOLDER. 

The following formula, in the hands of 
a competent man, can be used to unite 
aluminum or aluminoid parts: 

Tin — 10 parts. 

Cadmium — 10 parts. 

Zinc — 10 parts. 

Lead — 1 part. 
These parts to be united must be thor- 
oughly cleansed and allowed to stand two 
to three hours in a strong solution of Hypo- 
Sulphate of soda before being operated 
upon, or cleaned in the acid bath described 
above. 



SOLDER FOR ALUMINUM. 

Consists of zinc, tin, aluminum phos- 
phorus. The first two containing the bulk 
of the alloy. This solder can be used either 
with the blow pipe or the iron. If the 
former is used a little silver can be added 
to it without making it melt and giving it 
a better color. The surfaces to be soldered 
are first scraped clean then tinned with 
the solder itself, no flux being needed. Silver, 
2% ; Aluminum Phosphorus, 9% ; Tin, 
34%; Zinc, 50%. 



WELDING. 

Welding Composition. — Dissolve in 
water 30 parts of Borax, 4 parts of Sal Am- 
moniac, 4 parts of Cyanide of Potash. 
Evaporate the water at a low temperature. 



Welding Flux. — Pulverize the following 
ingredients: 2 oz. of Copperas, 1 oz. of 
Saltpeter, 6 oz. of Salt, 1 oz. of Oxide of 
Manganese, 1 oz. of Cyanide of Potash. 
Mix together with 3 lbs. of good Welding 
Sand. 

Welding Powders. — Calcine and pulver- 
ize together 50 parts of Iron Filings, 5 
parts of Sal Ammoniac, 3 parts of Borax, 
2]/ 2 parts of Copaiba Balsam. 

To Weld Cast Iron.— Take of good, 
clear White Sand, 3 parts ; Refined Solton, 
1 part; Fosterine, 1 part; Rock Salt, 1 part; 
mix all together. Take the two pieces of cast 
iron, heat them in a moderate charcoal fire, 
occasionally taking them out while heating 
and dipping them into the composition un- 
til they are of a proper heat to weld, then 
at once lay them on the anvil and gently 
hammer them together. 

To Weld Cast Iron. — The best way of 
welding cast iron is to take it at a very 
intense heat, closely approaching the melt- 
ing point. In this state it will be found 
sufficiently malleable to stand welding by 
the hammer. 

Composition Used to Weld Cast Steel. — 
10 parts Borax, 1 part Sal Ammoniac. 
Grind or pound them thoroughly together, 
then fuse them in a metal pot over a clear 
fire, taking care to continue the heat until 
all spume has disappeared from the surface. 
When the liquid appears clear the composi- 
tion is ready to be poured out to cool and 
concrete; afterward being ground lo a fine 
powder, it is ready for use. To use this 
composition the steel to be welded is raised 
to a heat which may be expressed as "bright 
yellow." It is then dipped among the weld- 
ing powder and again placed in the fire 
until it attains the same degree of heat as 
before. It is then ready to be placed under 
the hammer. 



METAL-CRAFT. 



43 



Composition for Welding Cast Steel. — 
Pulverize borax, any quantity, and slightly 
color it with dragon's blood. Heat the 
steel red hot, shake the borax over it ; place 
it again in the fire till the borax smokes on 
the steel, which will be much below the 
ordinary welding heat, and then hammer it. 

German Welding Powder. — 4 parts Iron 
Turnings, 3 parts Borax, 2 parts Borate of 
Iron, 1 part Water. 

Welding a Small Piece of Iron Upon a 
Large One, with Only a Light Heat. — It 
is often desirable to weld a small bit of 
iron upon a large bar, when the large piece 
must be heated equally hot as the small one. 
To save this take Borax, 1 lb., Red Oxide 
of Iron, 1 to 2 oz. Melt them together in 
a crucible, and when cold pulverize it and 
keep the powder dry for use. When you 
want to perform the operation, just bring 
the large piece to a white heat, having a 
good welding heat upon the small slip ; take 
the large one from the fire and sprinkle 
some of the powder upon the place, and 
bring the other upon it, applying the ham- 
mer smartly, and the weld will be as good 
as could be made with the greater heat 
without the powder. 



CASTING BARS OF SOLDER. 

In the drawing herewith (a) is a gong 
from an electric bell with a dent (c) bent 
in one side of it with a pair of pincers; (b) 
is a rivet passed through the hole in the 
gong, while (e) is an iron rod riveted to 
(a)at(d). A pea shooter makes an ad- 
mirable substitute for the iron rod. Here 
(f ) is a wooden handle, (g) a block of hard 
wood in which grooves (hh) are made. 
The solder is poured from the ladle into 




Simple Outfit for Casting Your Own Bars of 

Solder. A Handy Ladle Is Made from a Bell 

Gong Fitted with a Handle. 

these grooves. Sandpaper the grooves well 
and the solder can be easily removed. 



BELGIAN WELDING POWDER. 

1,000 parts Iron Filings, 500 parts Borax, 
50 parts Balsam of Copaiba or other resin- 
ous oil, 75 parts Sal Ammoniac. Mix all 
well together, heat and pulverize com- 
pletely. The surfaces to be welded are 
powdered with the composition and then 
brought to a cherry-red heat, at which the 
powder melts, when the portions to be 
united are taken from the fire and joined. 
If the pieces to be welded are too large to 
be introduced into the forge, one can be 
first heated with the welding powder to a 
cherry-red heat and the other afterward to 
a white heat, after which the welding may 
be effected. 



RUST REMOVER. 

Powdered Alum in strong Vinegar, Oil 
of Tartar or fine Emery are often used to 
remove rust. Kerosene or Turpentine, if 
left on the stained or rusted portions over 
night, will sufficiently soften the rust so 
that it may be removed by the use of fine 
emery cloth followed by a polishing powder. 



TO CLEAN BRASSWARE. 

Mix one ounce of oxalic acid, six ounces 
of rotten stone in a powder, one ounce of 
sweet oil and enough water to make a paste. 
Apply a small amount and rub dry with a 
flannel. This is a lot better than most of 
the polishes, as it will not corrode the brass 
as do polishes that contain nitric or other 
acids. 



44 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



TO CLEAN BRASS. 

Rub it with a mixture of Vinegar and 
Salt , or Oxalic Acid, then wash with Water 
and polish with Tripoli and Sweet Oil. 

Another liquid polish for metal is as fol- 
lows : Jewelers' Red, 25 parts; Oil of Tur- 
pentine, 15 parts; Oil of Stearine, 25 parts; 
Animal Charcoal, 45 parts; Alcohol suffi- 
cient to make the mass practically liquid. 
Apply with a brush. After the alcohol has 
evaporated rub with a cloth. 



TRANSPARENT FOR TOOLS. 

Best alcohol, 1 gal. ; gum sandarac, 2 
pounds; gum mastic, l / 2 pound. Place all 
in a tin can which admits of being corked ; 
cork it tight, and shake it frequently, oc- 
casionally placing the can in hot water. 
When dissolved it is ready for use. This 
makes a very nice varnish for new tools 
which are exposed to dampness, etc. 



RUST SPOTS ON NICKEL. 

Rust spots on nickel can be treated with 
Grease, and after several days rubbed with 
a rag saturated with a few drops of Hydro- 
chloric Acid in Ammonia. Parts should be 
thoroughly rinsed, dried and polished. 



RUST PREVENTIVE. 

The following is a good rust preventive 
for steel; 16 parts Turpentine and 1 part 
Caoutchouc dissolved by a gentle heat. To 
this add 8 parts Boiled Oil, stir and at the 
same time bring to the boiling point. Apply 
with a brush after the manner of varnish- 
ing. This coating can be removed by the 
use of Turpentine if desired. 



ETCHING FOR METALS. 

(1) Brass Signs — Paint sign with as- 
phalt varnish, leaving the parts to be etched 
unpainted. Raise a border around the out- 
side, made of soft Beeswax. Take 1 part 
of Nitric Acid diluted in 5 parts of Water. 
Pour this solution on to the sign about l /± 
inch deep. When the letters are etched 
deep enough, pour acid off, clean plate by 
heating and wiping with turpentine. 

(2) Copper Etching. — 1 part of Nitric or 
Sulphuric Acid; 2 parts of Potassium Bi- 
chromate (Saturated solution) ; 5 parts of 
Water. 

(3) Etching on Cutlery — Take 1 part of 
Asphaltum; 1 part of Burgundy Pitch; 1 
part of Beeswax. Melt together and mix. 
Warm the piece of cutlery, take a ball of 
cotton and smear a small quantity of the 
above wax on the blade, evenly all over the 
surface. When cold, scratch the required 
design or name on the article and touch the 
parts with a solution of one part of Nitric 
Acid in five parts of Water, using a camel's 
hair brush. 

After a few minutes dip in hot water 
and wipe the blade with benzine. 

(4) Etching on Glass — Mix together in 
a receptacle of lead: 3 parts of Sulphate of 
Barium; 1 part of Fluoride of Ammonium 
with Sulphuric Acid sufficient to bring the 
mixture to the consistency of rich milk. 
Cover the glass with a small quantity of 
hot beeswax. To etch proceed as for cutlery. 

(5) Etching on Silver — Same as copper 
or brass. 

(6) Etching on Bronze — 100 parts of 
pure Nitric Acid at 40° ; 5 parts of Muri- 
atic Acid at 20°. 

(7) Etching on Brass — Take 60 parts of 
Nitric Acid at 40°; 160 parts of Water. 
Dissolve 6 parts of Potassium Chlorate in 
100 parts of Water. Mix the two solutions 
together. 



I 
4 



METAL-CRAFT. 



45 



(8) Etching on Steel — 62 parts of Nitric 
Acid; 125 parts of Water; 187 parts of 
Alcohol; 8 parts of Copper Nitrate. 

(9) Zinco graphic Etching — 2 parts of 
Sulphate of Copper; 3 parts of Chloride of 
Copper; 64 parts of Water; 8 parts of 
Muriatic Acid. 

(10) Different Grounds for Etching — 
(a) 30 parts White Wax; 30 parts Gum 
Mastic; 15 parts Asphaltum. (£)3 parts 
White Wax; 1 part Block Pitch; 4 parts 
Asphaltum; 1 part Rosin, (c) 4 oz. soft 
Linseed Oil; J4 oz. Gum Benzoin; Yz oz. 
/FA*7* Wax. Boil together. 



ETCHING ON STEEL. 

Cover the article with a film of paraffin 
wax (or candle grease) and with a scriber 
write or mark on the surface whatever is 
required, making sure to cut clean through 
the wax. Sprinkle some salt over this and 
then cover with strong nitric acid. The 
etching should be continued for an hour or 
so, depending upon the depth of the etched 
part. Then clean off with hot water and 
grease the article to prevent any rusting. 



HOW TO FILE SOFT METALS. 

The teeth of a file are soon filled when 
the file is used on lead, tin, soft solder or 
aluminum. It cannot be cleaned like the 
wood rasp by dipping it into hot water, but 
if the file and the work are kept wet with 
water, there will be no trouble as the al- 
ready wet particles of lead, soft solder, etc., 
do not readily adhere to the file. 



TO PREVENT LEAD EXPLODING. 

Many mechanics have had their patience 
sorely tried when pouring melted lead 
around a damp or wet joint to find it ex- 
plode, blow out, or scatter from the effects 
of steam generated by the heat of the lead. 
The whole trouble may be stopped by put- 
ting a piece of resin the size of the end of 
a man's thumb into the ladle and allowing 
it to melt before pouring. 



HOW TO CUT BRASS. 

With a quill pen dipped in a strong solu- 
tion of alcoholic corrosive sublimate {care- 
ful; strong poison) draw a line on the 
brass. After letting this dry, go over the 
line with the pen dipped in nitric acid. 
Then the metal may be broken as glass is 
cut with a diamond. 



TO BORE A HOLE IN HARDENED STEEL. 

Melt a small quantity of wax and pour 
it on to the steel. Make a hole in the wax 
of the dimensions desired. 

Then put a few drops of nitric acid in 
the hole and leave it for some time. If 
not eaten through in 15 or 20 minutes wash 
the acid off and apply another dose. Con- 
tinue this until the hole is eaten through. 

Non-rusting soldering fluid: — While the 
zinc chloride soldering flux works nicely 
on steel, so far as soldering goes, it should 
not be used where there is danger of rust. 
A solution that will not cause rust, is made 
by mixing 

6 oz. alcohol 

2 oz. glycerine 

1 oz. oxide of zinc 



HOW TO PREPARE PURE SILVER FROM 
COIN SILVER. 

Silver coins are not pure silver, but con- 
tain copper to make them harder. Can- 
adian silver coins contain 925 parts of sil- 
ver and 75 parts of copper to each 1,000 
parts, and the metal is called Sterling 
Silver. United States silver coins contain 
900 parts silver and 100 parts copper to 
each 1,000 parts, and the metal is called 
"900 fine." 

In order to prepare the pure silver and 
to get rid of the copper, a silver coin is 
dissolved in dilute nitric acid (UNO.). 
The solution is then diluted with hot water 
to 200 or 300 cubic centimeters (approxi- 
mately 7 or 10 ounces). 



46 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



To this add a solution (hot) of sodium 
chlorid (common salt) which will throw 
down an insoluble precipitate of silver 
chlorid. Wash the precipitat thoroughly 
by decantation ; that is, by successively pour- 
ing on hot water and allowing the precipi- 
tat to settle, then pouring off the clear 
liquid. After a thorough washing in this 
manner, filter the solution through filter 
paper and dry it carefully in warm air. 
Remove the precipitat from the filter paper 
and place it in a porcelain crucible. Heat 
gently with a small flame until the silver 
chlorid is melted then let it cool. 

Cut out a piece of sheet zinc large enough 
to cover the bottom of the crucible and lay 
it on the silver chlorid. Now add a little 
water and a few drops of dilute sulphuric 
acid (H 2 S0 4 ) and let the whole stand for 
twenty-four hours. The silver chlorid will 
be reduced to silver and zinc chlorid is 
formed. Take out the piece of zinc and 
wash the silver with a little dilute sulphuric 
acid and then with water. This finely di- 
vided silver may be fused in a crucible by 
drying it and mixing with half its weight 
of sodium carbonat and apply sufficient heat. 



SHOP KINKS. 

Lay dull files in diluted sulphuric acid 
until they are eaten deep enough. 

Chasing Threads in Aluminum : When 
cutting threads on aluminum use a little 
oil with coal oil, about ( 1 ) one teaspoon 
of oil to (1) one pint of coal oil, and the 
threads will not clog up, but will take a fine 
finish as if cut in steel. 



A GOOD SILVER WASH. 

Take 1 ounce of pure nitric acid, 1 silver 
dime (or, better, a Canadian five-cent piece, 
which is also silver) and 1 ounce of quick- 
silver. These ingredients are now placed 
in a glass vessel and left until they are 
completely dissolved. Then add a pint of 
water and next enough powdered whiting to 
make the whole into a powder. This silver 
wash may be used on brass, copper, German 
silver, etc. 



TO PROTECT POLISHED STEEL OR IRON 
FROM RUST. 

Go over the surface with paraffin, or steep 
the iron for a few moments in a solution 
of soda acidulated with muriatic acid. The 
result is a blue-black coating, not affected 
bv air or water. 



SHOP KINKS. 



In drilling wrought iron or steel, always 
use plenty of oil. Lard oil is commonly 
used for such work. The oil helps to carry 
away the heat. 'When drilling or boring in 
cast iron, no oil is necessary. Light drill- 
ing in brass requires no oil, but fairly heavy 
drilling should have oil. Copper is one of 
the toughest materials and should receive 
plenty of oil. To drill large holes accurate- 
ly-, use a small drill first. 



HOW TO PREVENT PEN POINTS FROM 
GETTING RUSTY. 

To prevent pens from becoming rusty 
place a few old pen points (or some pieces 
of iron wire) in your ink supply. The pens 
eat up the acid in the ink and thereby keep 
your pen free from the acid. 



MARKING TOOLS WITH ACID. 

We recommend the following etching 
fluid for marking tools: Mix one part of 
muriatic acid, one of nitric and four parts 
of water. The tool is coated with wax and 
the design is then scratched in. 



:* 



Perfumery, Soaps and Extracts. 



PERFUMERY. 

In all the following formulas secure the 
best ingredients regardless of price. Qual- 
ity is of the first importance. Procure the 
best spirits of deodorized alcohol obtain- 
able. When the perfumes are mixed they 
should be frequently agitated and allowed 
to stand two or three weeks before filter- 
ing. Age improves all perfumes, if kept in 
a moderate atmosphere and in a dark place. 

French Jockey Club Bouquet. — Esprit de 
Rose, 1 pt. ; Esprit de Tuberose, 1 pt. ; Es- 
prit de Cassie, y 2 pt. ; Esprit de Jasmine, 
y pt. ; Extract Civet, 3 oz. 

The Guard's Bouquet. — Esprit de Rose, 
2 pts. ; Esprit de Neroli, y 2 pt. ; Extract Va- 
nilla, y 2 pt. ; Extract Orris, y 2 pt. ; Extract 
Musk, y^ pt. ; Otto of Cloves, y 2 dr. 

Yacht Club Bouquet. — Extract of Santal, 
1 pt. ; Extract of Neroli, 1 pt. ; Extract of 
Jasmine, y 2 pt. ; Extract Triple Rose, y 2 
pt. ; Extract Vanilla, J4 PM Flowers of 
Benzoin, y oz « 

Japanese Perfume. — Extract of Triple 
Rose, y 2 pt. ; Extract of Vitivert, y 2 pt. ; 
Extract of Patchouly, y 2 pt. ; Extract of 
Cedar, y 2 pt. ; Extract of Santal, J4 pt. ; 
Extract of Verveine, y pt. 

Lavender Extract. — Oil of Lavender 
(English Mitcham), 4 drs. ; Essence of 
Rose, 2 oz. ; Best Alcohol, 14 oz. 

Lily of the Valley. — Essence of Tube- 
rose, 8 oz. ; Essence of Jasmine, 1 oz. ; Es- 
sence of Orange Flowers, 1 oz. ; Essence of 
Cassie, 2 oz. ; Essence of Rose, 2 oz. ; Spirit 
of Rose, 1 oz. ; Tincture of Vanilla, 1 oz. ; 
Oil of Bitter Almonds, 2 drops. 

New Mown Hay. — Tincture of Tontka, 
4 oz. ; Tincture of Musk, 1 oz. ; Tincture 
of Benzoin, 1 oz. ; Spirit of Rose, 1 oz. ; 
Oil of Rose Geranium, 40 min. ; Oil of 
Bergamot, 40 min. ; Rectified Alcohol, 1 oz. 

Moss Rose. — Spirit of Rose, 9 oz. ; Es- 
sence of Orange Flowers, 3 oz. ; Essence of 
Rose, 2 oz. ; Tincture of Civet, 1 oz. ; Tinc- 
ture of Musk, 1 oz. 



White Rose. — Oil of Turkish Geranium, 
2 oz. ; Oil of Bergamot, 2 oz. ; Extract of 
Benzoin, 2 oz. ; Extract of Vanilla, 2 oz. ; 
Alcohol, 2 gals.; Water, 2 pts. 

Violet Extract. — Essence off VPolet, 4 
oz. ; Essence of Cassie, 1 oz. ; Essence of 
Rose, 3 drs.; Tincture of Orris, 1 oz. ; 
Tincture of Ambergris, 2 drs. ; Tincture of 
Civet, 2 drs.; Spirit of Almond, 20 min. 

Ylang-Ylang. — Spirit of Ylang, 8 oz. ; 
Spirit of Rose, 4 oz. ; Essence of Jasmine, 
2 oz. ; Tincture of Civet, 2 oz. 



SOAPS. 



Transparent Soap. — Slice 6 lbs. nice Yel- 
low Bar Soap into shavings; put into a 
brass tin or copper kettle, with Alcohol, 
y 2 gal., heating gradually over a slow fire, 
stirring till all is dissolved ; then add 1 oz. 
Sassafras Essence and stir until all is mixed ; 
now pour into pans about \y 2 inches deep, 
and when cold cut into square bars the 
length or width of the pan as desired. 

English Bar Soap. — Six gal. Soft Water, 
6 lb. good Stone Lime, 20 lb. Sal-Soda, 4 
oz. Borax, 15 lb. Fat (Tallow is best), 10 
lb. Pulverized Resin and 4 oz. Beeswax; 
put the water in a kettle on the fire, and 
when nearly boiling add the lime and soda ; 
when these are dissolved, add the borax. 
Boil gently, and stir until all is dissolved ; 
then add the fat, resin and beeswax. 

Best Soft Soap.— Mix 10 lb. Potash in 
10 gal. Warm Soft Water over night; in 
the morning boil it, adding 6 lb. Grease: 
then put all in a barrel, adding 15 gal. 
Soft Water. 

German Yellow Soap. — Tallow and Sal- 
Soda, of each 112 lb.; Resin, 56 lb.; Stone 
Lime, 28 lb. ; Palm Oil, 8 oz. ; Soft Water, 
28 gal. Put soda, lime and water into ;i 
kettle and boil, Stirring well ; then let it 
settle, and pour off the lye. In another 
kettle melt the tallow, resin and palm oil ; 
having it hot, the lye being also boiling hot. 
mix all together, stirring well, and the work 
is done. 



47 



48 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



German Yellow Soap. — Small quantities. 
— Tallow and Sal-Soda, each 1 lb. ; Resin, 
7 oz. ; Stone Lime, 4 oz. ; Palm Oil, 1 oz. ; 
Soft Water, 1 qt. 

Hard Soap with Lard. — Sal-Soda and 
Lard, each 6 lb. ; Stone Lime, 3 lb. ; Soft 
Water, 4 gal. ; dissolve the lime and soda 
in the water by boiling, stirring, settling 
and pouring off; then return to the kettle 
(brass or copper) and add the lard, and 
boil it till it becomes soap; then pour into 
a dish or moulds; and, when cold, cut into 
bars and dry_it. 

Camphor Soap. — Curd Soap, 28 lb. ; Otto 
of Rosemary 1% lb. Reduce the Camphor 
to powder, add 1 oz. Almond Oil, then sift 
it; when the soap is melted and ready to 
turn out, add the camphor and rosemary. 

Sand Soap. — Curd Soap, 7 lb.; Marine 
Soap, 7 lb.; Sifted Silver Sand, 28 lb.; 
Oils Thyme, Cassia, Caraway and French 
Lavender, of each 2 oz. 

Shaving Paste. — 4 oz. of Naples Soap, 2 
oz. of Powdered Castile Soap, 1 oz. of 
Honey, 5 drops each of Essence of Am- 
bergris, Oil of Cassia, Oil of Nutmegs. 
Melt the soap in water bath, add honey 
and when nearly cool add the oils and es- 
sence. 



CARPET SOAP. 

Carpet soap can be made as follows: 
Three small bars of good white soap, 2 gal- 
lons of water, 1 10-cent bottle of household 
ammonia, y 2 box of borax and 10 cents 
worth of tartar. Dissolve the soap in 
water on top of stove; then add other in- 
gredients. Let boil 10 minutes and then 
remove from the stove. 



SALVES AND LINIMENTS. 

Court Plaster. — Brush silk over with a 
solution of isinglass, in spirits or warm 
water, dry and repeat several times. For 
the last application apply several coats of 



balsam of Peru. Used to close cuts or 
wounds, by warming it and applying. It 
does not wash off until the skin partially 
heals. 

Artificial Skin. — For Burns, Bruises, Ab- 
rasions, etc. Proof against Water. — Take 
gun cotton and Venice turpentine, equal 
parts of each, and dissolve them in 20 times 
as much sulphuric ether, dissolving the cot- 
ton first, then adding the turpentine; keep 
it corked tightly. 

The object of the turpentine is to prevent 
pressure or pinching caused by evaporation 
of the ether when applied to a bruised sur- 
face. Water does not affect it, hence its 
value for chapped hands, surface bruises, 
etc. 

Adhesive Plaster, or Salve, for Deep 
Wounds, Cuts, etc., in Place of Stitches. — 
White Rosin, 7 ozs. ; bees wax and mutton 
tallow, of each y 2 oz. ; melt all together, 
then pour into cold water and work as wax 
until thoroughly mixed, then roll out into 
suitable sticks for use. 

It may be spread upon firm cloth and cut 
into narrow strips. In case of deep wounds, 
or cuts, it will be found to firmly hold them 
together, by first pressing one end of a strip 
upon one side of the wound until it adheres, 
then draw the edges of the wound closely 
together, and press down the other end of 
the strip until it adheres also. The strips 
should reach three or four inches upon each 
side of the cut, and run in different direc- 
tions across each other, to draw every part 
of the wound firmly in contact. It will 
crack easily after being spread until ap- 
plied to the warm flesh, yet if made any 
softer it cannot be depended upon for any 
length of time, but as it is, it has been worn 
as a strengthening plaster, and remained in 
place over a year. 

Burns. — Salve for Burns. — Equal parts 
of turpentine, sweet oil, and beeswax; melt 
the oil and wax together. 



PERFUMERY, SOAPS AND EXTRACTS. 



49 



When a little cool, add the turpentine, 
and stir until cold, which keeps them evenly 
mixed. Apply by spreading upon thin 
cloth — linen is the best. 

It is good for chaps on hands or lips, or 
for any other sore. If put on burns Before 
blistering has taken place, they will not 
blister. 

Chilblains. — To Cure. — Mutton tallow 
and lard, of each ^4 1°- > me ^ m an i ron 
vessel and add hydrated oxide of iron, 2 
oz. ; stirring continually with an iron 
spoon, until the mass is of an uniform black 
color; then let it cool and add Venice-tur- 
pentine, 2 oz. ; and Armenian bole, 1 oz. ; 
oil of bergamot, 1 dr. ; rub up the bole with 
a little olive oil, before putting in. Apply 
several times daily by putting it upon lint 
or linen- — heals the worst cases in a few 
days. 

(Chilblains arise from a severe cold to 
the part, causing inflammation, often ulcer- 
ating, making deep, and very troublesome, 
long continued sores.) 

Warts and Corns. — To Cure in Ten 
Minutes. — Take a small piece of potash 
and let it stand in the open air until it 
slacks, then thicken it to a paste with pul- 
verized gum arabic, which prevents it from 
spreading where it is not wanted. 

Pare off the seeds of the wart or the dead 
skin of the corn and apply the paste, and 
let it remain on ten minutes; wash off, and 
soak the place in sharp vinegar or sweet oil, 
either of which will neutralize the alkali. 
Now do not jam nor squeeze out the wart 
or corn, like "street-corner peddlers," but 
leave them alone, and nature will remove 
them without danger of taking cold, as 
would be if a sore is made by pinching them 
out. Corns are caused by pressure ; in most 
cases removing the pressure cures the corn. 
Nine of every ten corns can be cured by us- 
ing twice daily, upon it, any good liniment, 
and wearing loose shoes or boots. 



Shaking Liniment. — Turpentine and sen- 
ca oils, of each 7 1/3 ozs. ; sweet oil and 
tincture of arnica, of each 3 2/3 ozs.; oils 
of organum, hemlock, juniper, amber, and 
laudanum, of each 1 1/3 ozs.; spirits of 
ammonia, J / 2 oz. ; and gum camphor, ^ 
oz. ; which makes a little less than 1 qt. 



oz. 



FORMULA FOR DISINFECTANT. 

1 oz. 6 drams Guaiacol 

3 drams Eucalyptol 
6 drams Menthol 

Carbolic Acid 
3 drams Thymol 
Yz dram Oil Clove 
Enough Alcohol to make 2 lbs. 
To be sprayed about with water. 



1 oz. 



EXTRACTS. 

Cocoa. — Dissolve 1 lb. of Chocolate in 1 
qt. of Boiling Water, let it cool, take out 
the Cocoa Butter and add to it 4 oz. of 
Glycerine and bottle. 

Compound Coffee (for Dispensing). — 8 

oz. best (ground) Java Coffee; 2 drm. 

sliced Vanilla Bean; add diluted Alcohol 
in sufficient quantity. 

Plain Coffee Extract. — Pour upon 1 lb. 
of best fresh roasted Coffee 1 qt. of Cold 
Water, heat gently for half an hour then 
let it come to a boil, cool for 2 hours, strain 
and add 4 oz. of Glycerine. 

Ginger (for dispensing). — Take 1^ pt. 
of Fluid Extract of Ginger, 3 pts. of 
Water, 3 oz. of Carbonate of Magnesia; 
mix, shake often for 24 hours; filter, evap- 
orate to 24 P^ an d add «;4 P^ °f Alcohol. 

Mead. — Oil of Lemon, 1 oz. ; Oil of 
Cloves, 2 drm.; Oil of Cinnamon, 2 drm.; 
Oil of Nutmeg, 1 drm.; Oil of Allspice. 30 
drops; Oil of Sassafras, 40 drops; Oil of 
Ginger, 1 drm. 

Cut the Oils with Pumice and Sugar; 
dissolve in 16 or }2 oz. of Alcohol. 



Add gradually 
Water; clarify. 



an equal quantity of 



so 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Liebig's Meat Extract. — 1 oz. Lean 
Meat, very fresh, chopped very small; add 
8 oz. Cold Water; shake well together for 
10 minutes; heat gradually to boiling, let 
simmer gently for a few minutes, strain 
through a hair sieve while still hot; evap- 
orate to a soft substance. 

Sarsaparilla Extract. — Take 16 oz. Ja- 
maica Sarsaparilla, cut transversely, 280 oz. 
Distilled Water (160° F.) macerate in 
half the water for 6 hours and decant the 
liquor. Digest the residue in the remainder 
of the water for six hours more, mix the 
liquors, press and filter. 



Evaporate by a water bath to 7 oz. when 
cold, add 1 oz. of Rectified Spirit. 

Peach. — 3 drm. Oil of Almonds, 3 drm. 
Oil of Pineapple, 3 drm. Tartaric Acid, 
\y 2 pt. of Alcohol, 80° 

Pineapple. — 2 oz. of Pineapple Essence, 
1 oz. of Citric Acid, 2 pts. of Alcohol, 80°. 

Strawberry. — \ l / 2 oz. of Pineapple Oil, 
24 oz. of Tincture of Orris, ^4 oz « °f Tar- 
taric Acid, \y 2 pts. of Alcohol, 80°. 






Photography. 



AN ELECTRIC FILM DEVELOPER. 

Many of us enjoy taking pictures but 
there are few who can afford a film tank, 
and we have to develop by hand in a stuffy 
dark room. To obviate this difficulty the 
following instrument was developed. All 
the materials can be obtained around the 
house and can be put together in a few 
minutes. 

First the wheel B is assembled on rod 

C, which rotates through a hole in rod 

D. The rod C is turned by belt E (a rub- 
ber band can be used) which is made to 
rotate by a small battery motor F. Care 
must be taken that the motor does not run 
too fast while you are developing a film. 
To overcome this trouble a rheostat G is 



Abeostaf 

/ 
/ 




Useful Scheme Employing: Battery Motor for Mov- 
ing Photographic Film Thru Developing Bath. 

put in the battery circuit. The starting 
switch I, binding-posts H and one or two 
batteries complete the outfit. 

It is clear how the film drum is made. 
When the dish A is removed the wheel B 
can be revolved at high speed. This will 
dry the film very quickly. This device is 
also good for amateur motion picture de- 
veloping. 



PHOTOGRAPHIC BATHS. 

(developers). 
Eikonogen Developers. — No. 1. 20 oz. 
Distilled Water, 2 oz. of Sulphite of Soda 
(cryst.), l /2 oz. of Eikonogen Crystal. 



No. 2. 20 oz. Distilled water, J4 oz. 
Carbonate of Potash. Mix No. 1 and 2 in 
equal parts, and to each ounce add 2 to 4 
drops 10 per cent solution Bromide of 
Sodium. 

Hydrochinon Developer. — No. 1. 10 oz. 
of Distilled Water, 2 oz. of Sulphite of 
Sodium in cryst. chem. pure, 1 oz. of Hy- 
drochinon. Dissolve and keep in a yellow 
bottle. No. 2. 10 oz. of Distilled Water, 

2 oz. of Carbonate of Potash, 1 oz. of Car- 
bonate of Soda. Mix 2 drm. of No. 1 and 
I 1 /* drm. of No. 2, then add 3 oz. of 
Water (dist.). 

Combined Hydrochinon and Eikonogen 
Developers. — No. 1. 60 parts of Sulphite 
of soda (cryst.), 40 parts of Crystal Soda, 
1,000 parts of Distilled Water. After solu- 
tion filter. No. 2. 50 parts of Eikonogen, 
50 parts of Hydrochinon. Place together 
in a mortar, grind down to fine powder and 
keep dry in well stoppered glass bottle. 
For use take one part of No. 2 and dissolve 
it in 100 parts of No. 1. This developer 
is one of the best known; it possesses all 
the advantages of the other developers, with- 
out their disadvantages. 

Iron Developer. — No. 1. 120 gr. of 
Citric Acid, 88 gr. of Carbonate of Am- 
monia, 1 oz. of Distilled Water. No. 2. 
140 gr. of Sulphite of Iron, 1 drop of Sul- 
phuric Acid, 1 oz. of Distilled Water. To 

3 parts of No. 1 add 1 part of No. 2. 
Ferrous Cttro-Oxalate Developer. — No. 

1. 1 oz. of Neutral Oxalate of Potash, 2Yi 
oz. of Bromide of Potassium, 5 oz. of Hot 
Distilled Water. No. 2. 2 drm. of pure 
Proto-Sulphate of Iron, 2 oz. of hot Dis- 
tilled Water. Mix together 2 parts of No. 
1 and 1 part of No. 2. 

Pyro Developer. — Dissolve and keep in 
tight fitting stoppered bottles. No. 1. 50 
grn. of Pyrogallic Acid, 150 gr. of Sodium 
Sulphite, 10 gr. of Citric Acid, 1 oz. of 
Distilled Water. No. 2. 50 gr. of Potas- 
sium Bromide, 1 oz. of Water. No. 3. 2 
drm. of Ammonia (0.880), 2 T i oz. of Dis- 
tilled Water. Take 1 part of each and mix. 



SI 



52 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Tintypes Developer. — 1 oz. of Distilled 
Water, 14 grn. of Sulphate Iron, 10 gr. of 
Saltpeter, 30 min. of Acetic Acid, 2 min. 
of Nitric Acid. 



BROWN OR SEPIA TONES ON BROMID 
AND GASLIGHT PAPER. 

Photographic Printing Paper: — 

Solution No. 1.— Bleaching Solution. 

Bromid of Ammonia 1 oz. 

Water 16 oz. 

Solution No. 2. 

Ferricyanid of Potassimu 1 oz. 

Water 12 oz. 

Solution No. 3. — Browning Solution. 

Sulfid of Soda 1 oz. 

Water 12 oz. 

(Do not confuse Sulfid with Sulfite.) 

Directions for Brown or Sepia Tones on 
Bromid or Gaslight Photographic paper: — 
Take a print from the negative in the usual 
manner, develop and fix; when thoroughly 
washed, place in developing tray, and de- 
velop till image becomes faint in : — 

Solution No. 1 4 oz. 

Solution No. 2 4 oz. 

Mix together in container bottle; label 
bleaching fluid. 

Wash once only, ( too much washing will 
spoil the work) ; the solutions will 
keep indefinitely. After washing the print, 
fill the developing tray with water, placing 
the print in the tray with the water, and 
add a teaspoonful of browning solution). 

Solution No. 3 — Develop till the de- 
sired tone is acquired, and wash well in 
running water. 

Solution will noi keep. 



A SIMPLE WEIGHING BALANCE. 

A fairly sensitive scale can be made in 
a few minutes as follows: Take a test-tube 
A of about 1 inch diameter by 8 inches 
long, and put into it some melted paraffine 
G so that the tube floats upright in water. 



Fit a cork stopper B into A and glue to B 
a round tin or brass disc D of about 4 
inches diameter. Put the tube A in a glass 
F containing water. Next put known 
weights, say }i, y 2 and 1 ounce, on D and 
mark the waterlevel for these different 
points on the tube. Prepare a strip of 
drawing paper and graduate it to suit these 
marks oi %, y 2 and 1 ounce. Paste this 
paper scale inside the tube A, taking care 
to get it in the right place, and the balance 
is completed. A balance of this type has 



Puraff/ne 




Small Weighing Balance Made from Test-tube 
and Vessel Containing Liquid. 

no parts to get out of order and will serve 
very well for weighing photographic chem- 
icals, etc. 



VALUABLE HINTS FOR PHOTO 
WORKERS. 

Bottles. — Better to send the unknown 
contents of a bottle down the sink than 
risk spoiling a formula with it. Do not 
wait for labels to drop oft; give the lot an 
inspection every three or six months, and 
replace any which are becoming illegible. 
Don't wait till this has happened. 

Labels on Bottles Containing Solu- 
tion. — Place the label in such a position 
that you can indicate by an arrow point on 
the label just how far up in the bottle the 
stock solution comes when making up a 
fresh lot. 



PHOTOGRAPHY. 



S3 



Waste Box.— Do not throw spent 
matches, plate-box wrappers, bits of string, 
or anything else (not even cigarette ends) 
on the floor, but in the waste box (a large- 
size biscuit tin is just the size and shape). 
Everything on the floor makes for dust. 

Seconds Pendulum. — A little over a 
yard of fire string, the bob of an old clock, 
a long bit of brass chain. This clinks 
against the rim of a half-pound tobacco- 
box lid every second swing. The pendulum 
hangs from a nail in the wall. The pendu- 
lum is forty inches long. 

Cotton-Batting Bottle. — This bottle 
contained caustic potash solution. The 
stopper being fixed resisted "firmly but 
gently" every persuasive invitation to move 
it. It was tapped off at the neck. The 
shoulder of the bottle was cut with a file 
scratch and hot wire. The sharp edge 
taken off with a hard pebble. It now stands 
on the sink shelf, and holds cotton batting 
with which to swab the surface of a nega- 
tive or use as a quick filter. 

Toothbrush Bone Handle.— -Filed 
down to make a finger-nail shaped end, 
which acts admirably as a plate lifter. 



IMPROVED BICHROMAT DARK-ROOM 
LAMP FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 

Some time ago there appeared a descrip- 
tion of the above type lamp which shows a 
battery and rheostat connected in the ex- 
ternal circuit to light the lamp within the 
red solution of Bichromat of Potash. 

Here is described an improvement which 
is more convenient, less expensive and yet 
one which will give good service. Place a 
carbon and zinc within the bottle and con- 
nect them to the lamp. Put the following 
solution in the bottle; dissolve 24 ounces 
of Bichromat of Potash in 1 gallon of water 
and then slowly add 72 ounces of Sulfuric 
Acid. If only one-quarter of solution is 
desired use one-quarter of the above 
amounts. 



For the lamp procure one of the lamps 
now used in operation with a one or two 
cell dry battery flash-light; they can be 
bought in the 5 and 10 cent stores for a 
dime. 



Zmc K 



G/cjs /es/ /v£e 



So/uf/or? 




Improved Idea for Making 1 a Photographer's Dark 
Room Lamp Which Incorporates the Battery, 
Lamp and Red Coloring Solution All in One Jar. 

This battery will give about 2 l / 2 volts 
and can be used for constant service. The 
zinc will last much longer if first dipped 
in sulfuric acid solution and rubbed quickly 
with mercury. To open the lamp circuit 
remove the zinc rod. 



HANDY PRINTING AND DARK ROOM 
LIGHT. 

The ordinary light used in a photographic 
dark room has several disadvantages, name- 
ly: it does not allow one to print by the 
same light and when used as a dark room 
lamp does not throw the necessary illum- 
ination on the developing trays. 

This one, however, has neither of the 
above objections in the idea outlined here 
as will be seen from diagram. The top, 
which works in groove G, has either a 
wooden frame holding a piece of red glass 
or red celluloid. A handle may be fastened 
to the red glass by a compound. The from 
piece A is pivoted on screws K, at end of 
the frame. By pulling out the lower edge, 
the sheet of ground glass R, between the 
printing frame and lamp may then be in- 
serted after the bulb has been screwed into 
socket. 



54 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



When printing, the slide of red glass on 
top is closed and the printing frame placed 
on top with light turned on ; the negative 
or paper can be seen by placing them so 
that the light will shine through them. 




Home-made Electric Printing and Dark Room. 

Lamp Combined, Which Will Prove Extremely 

fseful to the Amateur Photographer. 

All corners and edges of the case should 
be made light-weight. Z is a sheet of red 
glass through which the developing light 
falls. The glass may be either held in 
small grooves rabbeted in or by small 
grooved moldings. 



A SIMPLE WAY TO MAKE YOUR OWN 
VELOX PAPER. 

Take any smooth piece of paper about 
4" x 4" (glossy paper is best) and cover 
with a coating of silver nitrat (Ag N0 3 ), 
using a camel's hair brush. If this is ex- 
posed under a good negative toward the sun 
a fine print will be obtained of a delightful 
dark brown. It can be fixed in sodium 
thiosulfate (hypo.) about 5 grams to 200 
c.c. of water. Do not leave in solution 
over three minutes, as it will take the color 
out of the print. Then wash. 



TO PRINT A PICTURE FROM THE PRINT 
ITSELF. 

The page or picture is soaked in a solu- 
tion, first of caustic potash and then of tar- 
taric acid. This produces a perfect diffu- 
sion of crystals of bitartarate of potassa 
through the texture of the unprinted part 
of the paper. As this salt resists oil, the 
ink roller may now be passed over the sur- 
face without transferring any part of its 
contents except to the printed part. 



EMERGENCY BLUE-PRINTING. 

Recently there was occasion to make a 
blue-print drawing in a hurry, but found 
neither a frame nor the blue-print paper 
large enough for the work at hand, so the 
following kinks came in handy. To make 
a frame take down a picture from the wall 
and remove even-thing except the glass 
and frame. Then screw four pieces of 
spring copper on it as shown in the draw- 
ing. The size of the picture frame was 
16x20 and, having two backs for the regu- 
lar 8x10 photographic frames, fix them up 
as shown. This frame proves to be very 
serviceable and fills the requirements which 
are needed. 

To make the blue-print paper proceed as 
follows: Obtain a fairly good grade of 
drawing paper (Rives or Saxe paper, if it 
can be obtained), and cut down to the re- 
quired size. Next make up a blue-print 
solution as follows: 

Solution A. — Water, 2 ounces ; potassium 
ferricyanide (red prussiate), 120 grains. 

Solution B. — Water, 2 ounces; ammonia 
citrate of iron, 140 grains. (Any propor- 
tion of the above can be made.) 

When they are thoroughly dissolved, mix 
and filter, and always keep in a clean bottle. 
Be careful not to let too much strong light 
act upon this solution. 



PHOTOGRAPHY. 



55 



The best way to sensitize the paper is to 
work by an orange light similar to the light 
used in bromide printing in photography. 
Float the paper on this solution until it lies 
perfectly flat. Do not take it out of the 
solution carelessly, but slide it out by grasp- 
ing two corners, sliding it over the surface 
of the water. If it is desired to keep some 
of the paper for future use this can be done 
by rolling it up, with the sensitized surface 
on the inside, and keeping in a tin box free 
from light. 



iv-X. 



Brass^ 
Spring 



6''/o" Gac/r of frame 




® {-Pic/ore frame 



Making an Emergency Blue-Printing Frame of 
L,arge Size. 



.TV*. 



Blue-Print and Other Papers. 



BLUE PRINTING. 

To obtain white lines on a blue ground: 

Solution No. 1. 

Ammonia Citrat of Iron 1 oz. 

Water 4 oz. 

Solution No. 2. 

Ferricyanid of Potassium 1 oz. 

Coating Solution : 

Directions — Mix equal portions of solu- 
tion No. 1 and No. 2. Coat the paper with 
a camel's hair brush (like painting) or rub 
on solution with a tuft of absorbent cot- 
ton. Any good bond paper will do, a mat 
surface writing paper is good. Paper 
should be dried after coating in a dark 
room, develop in water. 



HOW TO COUNT PAPER SHEETS 
RAPIDLY. 

Below is given a formula for the rapid 
counting of paper sheets. This method has 
been used and found to be very accurate: 

First, the thickness of one sheet of pa- 
per is measured in thousandths of an inch 
with a micrometer, then measure the to- 
tal thickness of the sheets of -paper to 
be counted. The total thickness is divided 
by the thickness of one sheet. 



BLUE PRINTS AND BLUE PRINTING. 

Since the making of plans is so closely 
allied with practical work it is thought 
that a few words on the manufacture 
and use of a blue print paper, which 
can be made and used by the ordinary 
amateur with excellent results, would not 
be amiss. 

Solution 1. — Citrate of iron and am- 
monia, 1 part by weight ; water, 5 parts by 
weight. 

Solution 2. — Red prussiate of potash, 1 
part by weight; w r ater, 5 parts by weight. 

Mix the two solutions in the dark or 
subdued light, and apply to the paper, with 
a camel's hair brush or, failing this, a 
sponge. 



The paper is coated by passing the sponge 
lightly over the surface three or four times, 
first lengthwise and then crosswise, giving 
the paper as dry a coating as possible con- 
sistent with an even coating. The treated 
paper is then hung up to dry. 

The above paper will require about five 
minutes to print. For a quick printing 
paper use a larger proportion of the citrate. 

A blue print is made in a printing frame 
similar to that for printing pictures. The 
process is, briefly, to expose the tracing, 
with the blue print paper under it for a 
proper length of time, and then remove the 
paper and wash it in water. To print place 
the tracing with its face against the glass 
of the frame. Then lay the paper with its 
sensitized side next the tracing. The back 
of the frame is then clamped in position 
and the frame turned over so that the glass 
is up and the rays of the sun will fall on 
it at right angles. The above operations 
should be carried out in the dark or dim 
light. 

When the exposure is finished remove 
the print, wash it in clear water and hang 
up to dry in the dark. 

Should any lines or dimensions have been 
left out of the tracing they may be put in 
the print, using a solution of baking soda 
in water and an ordinary pen. 



THE PREPARATION AND USE OF BLUE- 
PRINT PAPER. 

The following describes the manufac- 
ture of blue-print paper in terms that can be 
easily understood by any one. No difficulty 
should be experienced in either the making 
or the use of the paper. 

In order that the best results be obtained 
it is necessary that good material be used. 
All vessels in which the solution is made 
should be kept clean and when not in use 
should have water in them as far as pos- 
sible. Do not use soap when washing the 
trays, as the least trace will do harm to 
the solution. 



56 



BLUE-PRINT AND OTHER PAPERS. 



57 



Where ordinary work is to be done, any 
kind of well sized paper will answer, if 
tough enough to be washed. Different 
grades of unsensitized papers can be bought 
at engineers and photo supply houses. 

The following formula is for a good so- 
lution that will give excellent results to the 
amateur; this solution is made up of two 
salts, dissolved in water and applied to the 
surface of the paper : 

Solution No. 1. 
Ferrocyanid of potassium .... 1 oz. 
Pure or distilled water 6 oz. 

Solution No. 2. 
Ammoniocitrat of iron .... 1 oz. 
Pure or distilled water .... 6 oz. 

When solutions are to be used mix equal 
parts of 1 and 2 and filter through cotton 
or filter paper. This solution we will call 
No. 3. 

The solutions should be applied to the 
paper in a dark and dry room with a very 
subdued light — just enough to barely see by. 

Small sheets of the paper may be best 
covered by floating upon the surface of No. 
3. This is done by taking a sheet by two 
diagonal corners and laying it gently on the 
surface of the solution. This method does 
away with the possibility of air bubbles 
forming. 

One minute or less will be sufficient for 
sensitizing. Remove the paper by drawing 
over the edge of the tray to remove any 
surplus liquid. Take care to prevent any 
solution from getting on the back of the 
paper. 

Large pieces are best sensitized by tack- 
ing down upon a smooth table with thumb 
tacks and painting the solution on with a 
wide camel's hair brush Take care to get 
it on quickly and evenly. Dry the paper by 
hanging up by its corners to a wire so that 
it will swing free. Before sensitizing a 
batch of paper it would be best to make a 
trial sheet and print it. The solution may 



not be mixed properly or the paper may be 
too absorbent, in which case the solution 
will go into the paper and will not come out 
when washing, thus causing the print to 
fade in a short time. 

After the paper has dried hard and with- 
out the slightest trace of dampness it should 
be rolled up and put into an airtight (tin 
or cardboard) tube and kept in a dark and 
dry place. 

Printing is the exposing of the sensi- 
tized paper to the action of a powerful light 
with the copy to be printed placed over the 
paper. The direct rays of the sun are best 
for printing, but the electric arc is nearly as 
quick and has the advantage of being al- 
ways constant — regardless of weather. 

The drawing, tracing or negative is 
placed in the frame next to the glass with 
the paper under it, having its sensitive side 
up. Exposure will vary from two to ten 
minutes, according to the light and tracing. 
The correct time is only found by experi- 
ence. 

After the paper is sufficiently exposed, it 
is taken from the frame and immersed in 
a bath of clean running water. A print 
should be washed for not less than fifteen 
minutes or it will fade when placed in the 
light. 

Excellent prints may be made in the fol- 
lowing manner: Slightly expose the print 
so that when it is washed the white lines 
are not clear but appear bluish. Take the 
print out of the bath and lay it on a table 
and sponge it with a solution made up of 
one pound of bichromate of potash ami two 
gallons of water. The lines will come out 
pure white and the background an intense 
blue. Wash print thoroly ami dry. 

White lines may be added to blue prints 
by the use of a solution made of soda and 
water to which a small quantity of prepared 
chalk has been added to thicken it. This 
solution may be applied with a ruling pen. 
Engineers generally use a white, red or 
yellow pencil for making corrections. 



58 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



EXPLOSIVE PAPER. 

Dissolve some Iodine crystals in aqua- 
ammonia; the amount makes no difference 
and the crystals should not be entirely dis- 
solved for best results. Then pour the so- 
lution in a filter paper to filter. The pre- 
cipitate should then be put on different 
pieces of paper and left to dry. When dry 
the paper will explode if touched; the 
thicker the precipitate has been put on the 
paper the louder the report. A joke can be 
played by anyone by placing it, when al- 
most dry, where they will touch it when it 
is dry. Don't handle when dry because it 
will explode very easily. The explosions 
are harmless to anyone but they cause heat 
and for this reason care should be taken 
where they ignite. The correct proportion 
can best be found by experiment, since it 
differs with the material. I found 1 part 
of Iodine to 5 parts of ammonia to give 
good results. 



POLE TEST PAPER. 

Undoubtedly many amateur electricians 
have been annoyed by the trouble in find- 
ing which was the positive, and which was 
the negative of the two wires, especially 
when the source of current could not be 
reached or where the wires were twisted so 
as to make it difficult to distinguish one 
from the other. In storage cells and bat- 
teries the poles are frequently not marked 
and to find the positive and the negative 
poles one will have to resort to a polarity 
indicator, which is an expensive instrument 
for most experimenters. 

A simple method of getting rid of this 
annoyance with but little expense is as 
follows : At a drug or chemical store pro- 
cure some red litmus paper and thoroughly 
soak it in a solution of one tablespoonful 
of salt in a tumbler full of water. When 
thoroughly soaked remove the paper from 
the solution and carefully, so as not to tear 
it. 



Hang it up to dry in such a manner that 
it will not touch anything but the means of 
support. 

Note: — Do not try to dry the paper 
between sheets of blotting paper as this will 
absorb some of the salt solution and render 
the pole test paper insensitive to small 
voltages. 

When dry the pole test paper is ready 
for use. It is used as follows: Take a 
strip of the paper measuring about one- 
half inch by one and one-half inches and 
moisten it slightly with water. Then place 
the ends of the wires to be tested on the 
paper in such a position that they will be 
about three-quarters of an inch apart. 

If there is a potential difference (volt- 
age) between the two wires, a deep red spot 
will appear on the paper at one of the wires 
and a blue spot will appear at the other 
wire. The wire at which the blue spot 
appears is the negative and the one at which 
the red spot shows up is the positive. 

When the potential difference between 
the wires is low the red spot will some- 
times not show. As the blue spot, however, 
will appear, it will indicate the negative 
wire; the other, therefore, being positive. 

If you cannot obtain red litmus paper, 
use blue litmus paper instead. The blue 
spot, however, will not show up very no- 
ticeably in this case, but the red spot will 
indicate the positive wire and the other wire 
will therefore of necessity be the negative 
one. 

If unable to procure litmus paper, it can 
be prepared as follows: Boil some red cab- 
bage leaves in water until a concoction of a 
deep reddish purple is obtained. Treat this 
concoction with a few drops of white vine- 
gar until it turns to a brighter red color. 
Into this solution dip pieces of filter, blot- 
ting or unglazed paper. When dry the 
color of the paper should be a deep pink. 
If it is lighter the red cabbage solution 
should be boiled longer. 



BLUE-PRINT AND OTHER PAPERS. 



59 



The paper thus treated can then, after 
drying, be treated with the salt solution to 
make the pole test paper as previously de- 
scribed. 

After using pole test paper it can be dried 
and laid aside to be used over again. Af- 
ter it is worn out it may be renewed as fol- 
lows: Dip into vinegar until all blue spots 
disappear, then dip into water so as to re- 
move the vinegar, then soak in salt solution 
as described above and the paper will be as 
good as new. This can be repeated any 
number of times until the paper tears. 



AN ACID THAT SETS FIRE TO PAPER. 

Perchloric acid is one of the most ener- 
getic oxidizing agents known. The con- 
centrated acid contains 63.68 per cent of 
oxygen, with a portion of which it parts 
most readily in contact with combustible 
materials. If a drop of the acid is allowed 
to fall upon a piece of paper, the latter is 
ignited. It explodes with charcoal, and also, 
but more violently, with ether. In appear- 
ance, perchloric acid resembles sulphuric 
acid, being a colorless oily fluid, 1.78 times 
as heavy as water. 



MAGIC PAPER. 

Take lard oil, or sweet oil, mixed to the 
consistence of cream, with either of the fol- 
lowing paints, the color of which is desired : 
Prussian blue, lampblack, Venetian red, or 
chrome green, either of which should be 
rubbed with a knife on a plate or stone until 
smooth. Use rather thin but firm paper; 
put on with a sponge, and wipe off as dry 
as convenient ; then lay them between un- 
colored paper, or between newspapers, and 
press by laying books or some other flat 
substance upon them until the surplus oil 
is absorbed, when it is ready for use. 

Directions. — For taking off patterns of 
embroidery place a piece of thin paper over 
the embroidery to prevent soiling; then lay 
on the magic paper, and put on the cloth 
you wish to take the copy on, to embroider; 



pin fast, and rub over with a spoon handle ; 
and every part of the raised figure will show 
upon the plain cloth. To take impressions 
of leaves on paper, place the leaf between 
two sheets of this paper, and rub over it 
hard, then take the leaf out and place it 
between two sheets of white paper; rub 
again, and you will have a beautiful im- 
pression of both sides of the leaf or flower. 



STICKY FLY PAPER. 

Resin, 1 lb. ; Molasses, Z]/ 2 ounces, 
until thick enough. 



Boil 



' TRICK CIGARETTE PAPERS. 

Take common cigarette papers and dip 
them into a solution of saltpeter and water ; 
be sure they are thoroughly impregnated, 
then lay them out to dry. When they are 
dry replace them in their original package 
and hand them to a friend. He will re- 
ceive the surprise of his life. 



ARSENIC IN WALL PAPER. 

The following simple test, for arsenic 
in wall paper, which will answer all pur- 
poses is given: Take some of the coloring 
matter from the suspected paper and dis- 
solve it in a little ammonia hydroxide. Pour 
off the solution on a piece of glass and drop 
into the liquid a crystal of silver nitrate. 
A yellow color around the crystal will in- 
dicate the presence of arsenic. 



TO TRANSFER ENGRAVING OR PRINTS. 

Place the engravings or prints for a few 
seconds over the vapor of iodine. Dip a slip 
of white paper in a weak solution of starch 
and when dry in a weak solution of oil of 
vitriol. When again dry lay the paper on 
the engraving and place both for a few 
moments under a press. 



TO MAKE WATERPROOF PAPER. 

Paint with equal parts copal varnish 
boiled linseed oil and turpentine. 



-*& 



Plating. 



A HAND ELECTROPLATING OUTFIT. 

The plating outfit consists of a : 
L, A. fitted at one end with a glass : 
B, which carries a small sponge. Rod D 
passes through the rubber ball into the glass 
tube, B, and carries at that end the anode 
E. A small glass tube, F, also connects 
the rubber ball with the larger tube. B. The 
connections from the battery to the cathode 
G. the object to be plated, and to the pro- 
jecting end of the anode carrying rod D are 



Rubber M 




Bat 



© 



A Neat System of Electroplating. Eliminating the 
Usual Muss and Trouble. 

made as in the diagram. T:;e rubber ball 
is filled with the electroplating fluid and is 
squeezed so as to force the fluid through the 
U tube. F, into the larger tube, B, rilling 
it and soaking the sponge. 

The current is then turned on and by 
moving the wet sponge over the cathode. G, 
the latter will be plated. 



SILVER PLATING WITHOUT A BATTERY. 

Dissolve about an ounce cf silver in two 
ounces of nitric acid. After the silver is 
all dissolved throw into it a pint :: water 
and four ounces of common salt. The salt 
will precipitate a powder which is pure 
silver. 



Filter erf the water, or if there is 
no filter paper handy, pour off the water 
and repeat until all the effects oi the salt 
have disappeared. To this white powder 
add two ounces of cyanide of potassium* 
and three ounces of hypsosulphate of soda. 
Now add to all this two quarts of pure 
rain water and the silver mixture is com- 
plete. 

The plating is done in the following man- 
ner. Hang the article to be plated in the 
solution at the end of a strip of lead or if 
more convenient, immerse the article in the 
solution and boil it for ten or twenty min- 
utes, according to the thickness of the sil- 
vering desired. To obtain best results the 
articles to be plated must be free from 
grease and oil or dirt 



SILVER PLATED PENNIES. 

In a solution of mercuric nitrate place a 
cent so that the coin will be completely 
covered by the liquid. A chemical reaction 
immediately takes place; the copper, having 
a greater affinity- for the nitrate than the 
mercury, forms a copper nitrate, causing 
the mercury to be deposited on the cent, 
which gives it a silver-plated appearance. 

I: mercuric nitrate cannot be bought it 
can easily be made by dissolving a small 
globule or mercury in a little concentrated 
nitric acid, warming, if necessary, to start 
::.e reaction. . 



A GOOD SILVER-PLATING SOLUTION. 

This solution will be found of excellent 
use in silver-plating different parts of elec- 
trical apparatus, jewelry, etc. Copper, 
Brass and German silver articles oni 
be plated. 

Cut 2 silver quarter into small pieces and 

place in a porcelain or glass dish. Place the 

dish, uncovered, in a pan of warm water 

Id J 2 ounce of nitric arid :: the metal. 



chemical is a deadly poiacn and must be 

handled with rhe most care. 



60 



PLATING. 



61 



Let dish stand in the water until metal is 
all dissolved. Now add Yz gill of water 
and one teaspoonful of fine salt. Let the 
precipitate settle; and filter. Add more 
salt to the filtrate, and if any more precipi- 
tate falls filter again. Wash the precipitate 
on the filter paper until the water shows no 
acid when tested with filter paper. Add 
one pint of water to the precipitate and 
four scruples of potassium cyanide. Great 
care must be used in handling the cyanide, 
or the solution after it is added, as it is a 
deadly and almost instantaneous poison. Put 
a piece of zinc about 2xlx^ inches in the 
solution and it is ready for use. 

No electric battery is needed. Simply 
clean the articles to be plated in a hot 
potash solution and rinse good in boiling 
water. Immerse in the solution for about 
Yz minute, allowing the article to rest on 
the zinc. Wipe dry with a cloth and re- 
peat. Heavier coatings can be given by 
repeating. Articles will take a high polish 
and wear fine. 



SILVER PLATE. 

Dissolve in silver nitrate (AgNO s ) 
enough ammonium chlorid (NH 4 C1) to 
bring about precipitation; cream to a light 
paste by adding cream of tartar 
(HKC 4 H 4 O e ). A little of this paste rubbed 
briskly on clean metal with a soft cloth 
will give the desired effect. 



SILVER-PLATING GLASS. 

To silver-plate glass first have the glass 
clean. To clean it well wash it first with 
an alkali and then with distilled water. 

Now dissolve 7.8 grammes of silver ni- 
trat in 60 c.c. of water and divide the solu- 
tion in two equal portions. Dissolve also 
3.11 grammes of Rochclle salt in 1180 c.c. 
of water and heat the solution to the boiling 
point. Add to it gradually, so as not to 
stop the boiling, one of the portions of the 
silver solution, boil 10 minutes longer, cool 
and decant the clear liquid. 



To the other half of the silver solution 
add just sufficient ammonia water to dis- 
solve the precipitat which is formed, or only 
leave a faint cloudiness; then add 360 
c.c. of water and filter. Equal portions of 
these two solutions, when mixed and poured 
on glass, will deposit a brilliant coating of 
silver in about 10 minutes, depending on 
the temperature of the room. 

The coating of silver should then be well 
washed, dried and varnished. 



TO SILVER BRASS OBJECTS. 

Mix 3 parts chloride of silver, 20 parts 
powdered cream of tartar, 15 parts pow- 
dered common salt. Moisten a suitable 
quantity of the mixture with water, rubbed 
in with a piece of blotting paper. Take 
the blotter, which should be moist, and 
rub the article (brass) to be silvered. Wipe 
off any dust on the article and rub with a 
piece of cotton which has been dusted with 
precipitated chalk. Then wash in water 
and polish with a cloth. 



Silver-plating steel. 

A silver plating for steel can be made as 
follows: Lunar caustic, 11 parts; sodium 
hyposulphit, 20 parts; sal ammoniac, 12 
parts ; whiting, 20 parts, and distilled water, 
200 parts, mixed together. Before applying 
the silver plating to the article clean off all 
grease. 



ELECTRO ZINC PLATING. 

To zinc plate steel and other metallic 
objects mix together about 4 drams of zinc 
sulphate with 4 ounces of water. Place 
this solution in an ordinary glass jar; next 
fasten a wire to the positive pole of a bat- 
tery. Let this wire lay submerged In the 
solution. The wire which you have fast- 
ened to the negative pole of the battery 
should be arranged so that it will hold some 
metal object which is to be /inc plated. 



62 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Drop the wire with object to be plated in 
the solution. Care must be taken not to let 
the two wires touch, for this will cause a 
short circuit of the battery. Using a 4-volt 




It's Easy Enough to Zinc Plate an Article, as 

You Will Find in Following the Instructions 

Herewith. 

60-ampere hour storage battery the action 
of the solution will be much quicker and 
the quicker will the zinc deposit itself on 
the object connected to the cathode. 



LINING FOR PLATING TANKS. 

In pickling, plating and other metal treat- 
ing processes the lining for the acid-hold- 
ing tanks requires certain qualities to resist 
the corrosive action of the acids. A mix- 
ture consisting of 75 parts (by weight) of 
pitch, 9 parts plaster-of-paris, 9 parts ochre, 
15 parts beeswax and 3 parts litharge is 
said to form an efficient lining for this pur- 
pose. 



COPPER PLATING WITHOUT 
ELECTRICITY. 

With this copper-plating solution an ar- 
ticle can be plated in two minutes without 
any electric current: 

Formula: Add to 350 C.C. of water 25 
C.C. of pure sulphuric acid, 1 tablespoonful 
of copper sulphate crystals, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of ammonium chloride (Sal Ammo- 
niac). 



One small teaspoonful sodium bicar- 
bonate (baking soda). This solution will 
not copper-plate silver, zinc, aluminum, lead 
or carbon, but gives tin, tool steel and 
nickel a fine plating. Clean the article thor- 
oughly, then dip in the solution for about 
two minutes. Remove and wipe off the 
solution. Dip in again for two minutes 
and after wiping, polish the article. 



COPPER PLATING. 

To copper plate a small steel object pro- 
ceed in this way: Put y 2 teaspoonful of 
sodium bisulphate in 1/5 glass of water. 
Now add % teaspoonful of azurite. Heat 
gently to dissolve the substances. Dip the 
article that is to be plated into the solution 
and leave for about one-half minute, and 
dry on a cloth. 



DIRECTIONS FOR WHITE METAL 
PLATING. 

A number of firms have advertised white 
metal plating outfits, for plating knives, 
forks, spoons, etc., for which they charge 
from ten to twenty dollars. By following 
the instructions given below, you can, with 
the assistance of a blacksmith in making 
the crucible and hood, set up this outfit 
complete for about two dollars and a half 
or less. 



Weld iron t>ond to crudbfe ; ms ^r^fs 




How Crucible is Made for White Metal Plating. 

To make the hood — Make a flaring 
gas-pipe 4x6 inches, weld a bottom in it, 
and a band around the top from which it 
hangs inside the hood. 



PLATING. 



63 



To make the hood — Make a flaring 
cylinder of sheet iron, the small end the 
proper size to fit under the ring of crucible ; 
the other end about one-fourth larger in 
diameter, and sufficiently long to hold cru- 
cible upright with bottom just clear of the 
stove or gas plate. 

To make the White Metal — Pure tin, 
10 lbs., lead 4 ozs., antimony 2 ozs. Melt 
and mix thoroughly. A better grade is 
made by using 2 ozs. of pure silver in place 
of the antimony. 

Jar No. 1 (Pickle Solution) — For iron 
or steel is composed of muriatic acid only. 

Jar No. 2 (Dip Bath)— Dissolve 2 
pounds refined zinc in 2 quarts fluid hydro- 
chloric acid C. P. When dissolved and 
cold, add half a teacup of clear rain water 
or filtered water. (This is a dangerous 
solution to mix, as it is very violent when 
the zinc is being consumed, and great care 
should be taken.) 

Jar No. 3 (Chill Bath)— Dissolve 6 ozs. 
di-ammonia carbonate in 3 pints of filtered 
water. Use at a temperature of 120 de- 
grees F. 

Jar No. 4 (Pickle Solution) — For Irish 
silver and brass, dissolve 12 ozs. granulated 
nitratum in 2 quarts of filtered water ; then 
add slowly 2 quarts commercial sulphuric 
acid. (Note — Unless you are going to do 
a great deal of plating, Jar No. 4 is un- 
necessary, as Jar No. 1 answers as a pickle 
solution for all metals.) 

Stripping Solution — Is composed of 1 

pound granulated kali; or potash and 2 

scruples of French rouge; dissolved in 1 
gallon commercial sulphuric acid. 

(The Flux) — Mix thoroughly 5 lbs. 
granulated white ammonia hydrochlorate 
with 4 drams French rouge. For conveni- 
ence in using, put a portion in an ordinary 
tin pepper box. 

Directions for Plating — Place the sheet 
iron hood on the stove or gas plate, the 



small end up, then set the iron crucible pre- 
viously filled with the white metal, inside 
the hood, so edge will rest on top of same. 
But little heat is required to melt the metal, 
which forms a thin metallic solution. Care 
should be taken not to get it too hot. If 
after an article is plated it shows a yel- 
lowish color, it is because of too much heat, 
which should be partly turned off. Pro- 
ceed to plate as follows: 

First, put articles to be plated in Jar 
No. 1, allowing them to remain ten minutes 
to remove all rust, etc., then rinse in clear, 
cold water. Next take one piece at a time 
and rinse in Jar No. 2 for a few seconds; 
then immerse the article slowly in the cru- 
cible containing the melted metal; raise 
slowly up and down once or twice, sprinkle 
a little flux on the article, letting some of 
the flux fall on the melted metal. Then 
draw article from crucible and immerse 
slowly into Jar No. 3, which hardens the 
plate, after which rinse in clear water and 
it is finished. 

Knives, forks and spoons should be plated, 
one-half at a time; then the operation re- 
versed. About one minute is required to 
plate a single article. A little practise will 
make you perfectly familiar with plating 
in this manner, and you will be able to see 
at a glance when everything is perfect. 
When there is much old plate on an article, 
place stripping solution in a crock, heat it, 
and immerse article therein until the old 
plate is all removed; then rinse in clear 
water, dry with a chamois skin, and proceed 
to plate as above. 

(Special Note) — When much old plate 
is removed by stripping, it pays to reclaim 
the silver, which may be done in the follow- 
ing manner: Add common salt to the strip- 
ping solution as long as it throws down a 
precipitate, then pour off the solution. Wash 
the precipitate with clear water, then add a 
few small pieces of sheet zinc to it and let 
stand until the precipitate turns to a black 
powder, which will take several hours. 



64 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Then wash the powder several times in 
warm water, dry between sheets of blotting 
paper, and pick out the pieces of zinc. The 
powder will be pure silver which you can 
melt and run into bars. 



COPPER-PLATING CARBON MOTOR 
BRUSHES. 

It is usual to thoroughly copper plate the 
better class of motor and dynamo brushes 
made of carbon to improve their surface 
conductivity, and this may be accomplished 
in the following manner: 

The carbon brushes are usually cut from 
flat carbon plates of the desired thickness 
and measuring 12 by 12 inches. They are 
cut out in strips, which are then separated 
into the proper lengths by means of a high 
speed carborundum or corundum wheel 
about J4 inch thick and 12 inches in diam- 
eter. 

The brushes are first washed thoroughly 
and after drying they are dipped in pure 
paraffin, when they are placed in a bake 
oven and heated at 110 to 115° F. tem- 
perature for 20 to 30 minutes. 

fo4wit0gnor6a£- 




*]ec?ro/yle 



'Copper Anode 



Copper Plating Carbon Brushes in Electrolytic 
Bath. 



They are copper plated by immersing in 
an electrolyte bath. For small tanks the 
bath is prepared by mixing two pounds of 
copper sulphate with one gallon of water 
and adding ammonia until the precipitate 
first formed is just redissolved. This colors 
the solution blue. Potassium cyanid is then 
added until the blue color disappears. This 



bath should be used at a temperature of 
122° F. to 131°F. Another bath, which 
may be used cold, is composed of a copper 
sulphate solution with 1/10 of its volume 
of sulphuric acid. Its density should regis- 
ter 1.197. This bath cannot be used for 
metal objects attacked by the above chemi- 
cals. 




Details of Method Used in Firmly Securing Pig- 
tail Connections to Carbon Brushes. 

Pure copper anodes are placed in the 
bath, and these may be cut from pure cop- 
per sheets about }i inch thick. The carbon 
brushes are held by spring clips, resulting 
in about J / 2 inch of the brush remaining 
unplated, but this is all right, as the un- 
plated edge is the one ground down to fit 
the commutator curvature, and the copper 
plated surface need not necessarily reach 
the commutator. 

The electric current required for a small 
plating tank is 15 to 20 amperes at 3j^ to 
4 volts, and a regular electro-plating gen- 
erator is best employed. The brusnes are 
plated from 4 to 6 minutes generally, but 
this will vary with the temperature of the 
electrolyte and the amount of current used. 

A litle experimenting will soon tell as 
to how long the brushes should be plated 
and as to the proper strength of current. 
It should be possible to regulate the latter 
by means of rheostat. If the plating is done 
too rapidly by using too strong a current 
then the metal deposit on the brushes will 
tend to peel or turn black. Hints are given 
in the illustration for attaching the "pig- 
tail" connectors. 



PLATING. 



65 



TIN PLATING. 

To tin-plate a small article like a copper 
penny or a copper statue proceed this way. 
Put a half teaspoon of tartaric acid in a 
bright and shiny tin cup. Put the article 
in the cup and fill the latter about three- 
fourths full of water and set on stove to 
boil. Boil till water is nearly all driven off. 
The article is now tin-plated and a little 
polishing will make it shine as bright as a 
new dime. In this experiment the tartaric 
acid dissolves the tin and plates the object 
which is in the cup. 

The object to be plated must be clean 
and free from dirt or it will plate unevenly. 
To clean the article dip in weak sulphuric 
acid and dry. 



GOLD PLATING WITHOUT A BATTERY. 

Clean the article to be plated with a brush 
and ammonia water until it is bright and 
untarnished, then take a small piece of gold 
and dissolve it in four times its volume of 
metallic mercury, which forms an amalgam. 
With a dry cloth rub a little of this amal- 
gam on the article to be plated, then place 
it on a stone in a furnace and heat to the 
beginning of redness. After it cools clean 
with a brush and a little cream of tartar. 



"ROMAN GOLD" PLATING SOLUTION. 

When making the solution, obtain a por- 
celain jar that holds 4 gallons of water. 
Fill it almost to the top with clean water 
and set the jar in a tank of water. Keep 
the water boiling while you are using the 
solution, for if the solution is cold the work 
will smut up, instead of having an even 
Roman Gold finish. Next dissolve 8 ounces 
of potassium cyanide in the 4-gallon jar. 
After the cyanide is all dissolved place into 
the 4-gallon jar a porous cup that holds 
about 1 quart of water. Into the porous 
cup pour 4 ounces of cyanide; let this dis- 
solve also. Suspend the porous cup on cen- 



ter wire as per diagram. Put 10 pwt. of 
fine ribbon gold on both sides of the electric 
wire, making 20 pwt. in all. The gold will 
dissolve into the 4-gallon jar in about one 
hour and a half. After it is all dissolved 




/• Tank m'th hot voter 
*Z • 4 Gof.jor wth sott/t/0/7 
J« go/a* connected 'o/? fr/re ,~ 

4' Porous cup conn to negative *>re (£f) 



Arrangement of Apparatus for "Roman Gold" 
Plating. 

remove the porous cup from the 4-gallon jar 
and throw away what is left, as it is of no 
value. Allow the solution to settle about 2 
hours before using. You can use gold, 
platinum or carbon anodes to color with; 
that is to say, put one anode on each wire, 
and color on center wire. 



SILVER-PLATING POWDER. 

Chloride of silver, 3 oz. ; salts of tartar, 
6 oz. ; prepared chalk, 2 oz. ; common salt, 
3 oz. Mix. Dip a moist cloth in this 
powder and rub the article to be plated. 



SILVER-PLATING FLUID. 

One oz. silver nitrate, 12 oz. rain water, 
Dissolve and add 2 oz. of potassium cyan- 
ide. (The latter should be carefully han- 
dled, as it is poisonous.) Clean the article 
thoroughly and apply the fluid by rubbing. 
The fluid may be used on detector parts, 
but as the deposited film of silver is not 
very substantial it would not do for articles 
which are to be continually carried in the 
pocket, etc. 



66 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



COLD SILVERING OF METALS. 

Mix 1 part of chloride of silver with 3 
parts of pearlash, \y 2 parts common salt, 
and 1 part whiting; and well rub the mix- 
ture on the surface of brass or copper (pre- 
viously well cleaned), by means of a piece 
of soft leather, or a cork moistened with 
water and dipped in the powder. When 
properly silvered, the metal should be well 
washed in hot water, slightly alkalized; 
then wiped dry. 



GOLD-PLATING WITHOUT BATTERY. 

To gild without a battery, use the follow- 



ing process: In 1,000 parts of distilled water 
dissolve in the following order: Crystalline 
sodium pyrophosphate, 80 parts; 12 per 
cent solution of hydrocyanic acid, 8 parts; 
crystalline gold chloride, 2 parts. Heat to 
a boiling temperature and dip the article, 
first thoroughly cleansed, therein. To silver 
brass, copper, etc., dissolve 10 parts lunar 
caustic in 500 parts distilled water, and 35 
parts potassium cyanide (98 per cent) in 
500 parts distilled water; mix both solu- 
tions with stirring. Heat to about 194 de- 
grees F. in an enameled vessel, and enter 
the articles, well cleansed of all grease, 
until a uniform coating has formed. 



■»- 



Pyrotechny. 



COLORED FIRES. 



The Preparation of the Mixtures for 
Colored Lights. — The ingredients must be 
perfectly dry, in the state of very fine pow- 
der; mixed thoroughly but very carefully 
together on sheets of paper with the hands 
or by means of cardboard spatulas. 

The mixtures are best packed in capsules 
or tubes about one inch in diameter and 
from six to twelve inches long, made of 
stiff writing paper. 

Greater regularity in burning is secured 
by moistening the mixtures with a little 
whiskey and packing them firmly down in 
thtFfubes by means of a wooden cylinder, 
then drying. 

To facilitate ignition a small quantity of 
the following powder, loosely twisted in 
thin paper, is inserted in the top: 

Ignition Powder. — Sixteen parts of 
mealed powder, 2 parts of niter, 1 part of 
sulphur, 1 part of charcoal. 

White Lights. — Four oz. of saltpeter, 1 
oz. of sulphur, 1 oz. of black sulphide of 
antimony. 

Yellow Lights. — Four oz. of chlorate of 
potash, 2 oz. of sulphide of antimony, 1 oz. 
of sulphur, 1 oz. of oxalate of soda. 

Green Lights. — Two oz. of chlorate ofjy 
baryta, 3 oz. of nitrate of baryta, 1 oz. of 
sulphur. 

Red Lights.— Twenty-five oz. of nitrate 
of strontia, 15 oz. of chlorate of potash, 13 
oz. of sulphur, 4 oz. of black sulphide of 
antimony, 1 oz. of mastic. 

Blue Lights. — Three oz. of chlorate of 
potash, 1 oz. of sulphur, 1 oz. of ammonia- 
sulphate of copper. 

Rockets. — One part of sulphur, 2 parts of 
charcoal, 4 parts of niter, 2 parts of meal 
powder, 1 part of steel filings. 

Silver Rain. — Two parts of steel filings, 
7 parts of meal poivder, 1 part of niter. 

Gold Rain. — One part of sulphur, 2 parts 
of niter, 1 part of charcoal, 6 parts of meal 
powder. 



Chlorate Metal Powder. — Fifteen parts 
of chlorate of potash, 3 parts of fine char- 
coal, 2 parts of sulphur. 

Red Chinese Fire. — Sixteen parts of meal 
powder, 16 parts of niter, 4 parts of sul- 
phur, 4 parts of charcoal, 14 parts of iron 

hnrinns. 



HOW TO SET OFF FLASHLIGHT 
POWDER. 

Very often one wishes to set off flashlight 
powder when taking an indoor picture, etc. 
A simple way to set off the powder is shown 
in the diagram. 

A is a small base of slate 2 inches by 3 
inches. B two binding posts taken from an 
old battery. Screw the posts on the base 



3ase? 




When Current From the Battery is Past Thru 
the Single Strand of Steel Wool, It Becomes 
Incandescent; Igniting the Flashlight Fowtler. 

about one inch apart. Procure sonic line 
steel wool from a paint store. Pull out a 
strand and stretch it between the binding 
posts. A few dry cells and a push-button 
are connected as in the diagram. 

When a flashlight picture is to be taken 
pour some powder on the wire and push 
the button. The wire will become red hot 
and will ignite the powder. A reflector is 
put behind the base to increase the light. 



67 



68 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



FULMINATES. 

Much has been written about the guns 
used in the European War and it is not out 
of place to dig down to tjie root of the 
whole thing and find out what is the real 
source of the explosion in the gun chamber. 




Fulminate of Mercury Alone Will Not Ignite 
Gunpowder. When Mixed With Potassium Chlorat, 
However, It Readily Ignites the Gunpowder, Due 
to the Retardation of the Flash and the Heat 
Formed. 

Most guns are set off by means of a priming 
cap and the substance used inside the prim- 
ing cap is the subject of this article. 

Mercury Fulminate is the active sub- 
stance in the priming cap. This substance 
is prepared by the action of alcohol on a 
solution of mercury dissolved in an excess 
of nitric acid; and as this action is of a 
violent character, some care is necessary in 
order to avoid an explosion. On a small 
scale, the fulminate may be obtained with- 
out any risk by STRICTLY ATTEND- 
ING TO THE FOLLOWING DIREC- 
TIONS: 

Weigh out, in a watch-glass, 25 grains 
of mercury, transfer it to a half-pint beaker, 
add half an ounce (measured) of ordinary 
concentrated nitric acid (sp. gr. 1.42), and 
apply a gentle heat. As soon as the last 
particle of mercury is dissolved, place the 



beaker upon the table, away from any flame, 
and pour into it, pretty quickly, at arms 
length , 5 measured drachms ot alcohol (sp. 
gr. 0.87). Very brisk action will ensue, 
and the solution will become turbid from 
the separation of crystals of the fulminate, 
at the same time evolving very dense white 
clouds, which have an agreeable odor, due 
to the presence of nitrous ether, aldehyde, 
and other products of the action of nitric 
acid upon alcohol. The heavy character of 
these clouds is caused by the presence of 
mercury, tho in what form has not 
been ascertained; much nitrous oxid and 
hydrocyanic acid are evolved at the same 
time. When the action has subsided, the 
beaker may be filled with water, the ful- 
minate allowed to settle, and the acid liquid 
poured off. The fulminate is then collected 
on a filter, washed with water as long as 
the washings taste acid, and dried by ex- 
posure to air. 

On a large industrial scale, the prepara- 
tion of mercuric fulminate is carried out in 
the open air, under sheds. At Montreuil, 
300 grammes of mercury are dissolved in 




How to Make a "Throw-Down" Fire-cracker from 
a Few Quartz Fragments and a Piece of Silver 
Fulminate, All Wrapt in a Piece of Thin Paper. 

3 kilogrammes of colorless nitric acid of 
sp. gr. 1.4 ii> the cold. The solution is 
transferred to a retort, and 2 litres of strong 
alcohol are added. In the summer no heat 
is applied, and the vapors are condensed 
in a receiver and added to a fresh charge. 



PYROTECHNY. 



69 



When the action has ceased the contents of 
the retort are poured into a shallow pan, 
and when cold, the fulminate is collected 
in a conical earthen vessel partially plugged 
at "the narrow end. It is washed with rain- 
water and drained until it contains 20% of 
water, being stored in that state. 

Mercuric fulminate is represented by the 
formula HgC 2 N 2 2 being derived from the 
hypothetical fulminic acid H 2 C 2 N 2 2 by 
the substitution of Hg" for H 2 . Its pro- 
duction by the action of nitric acid upon 
mercury and alcohol may be explained by 
the following reactions: 

(1) Mercury, dissolved in nitric acid, 
yields mercuric nitrat and nitrous acid. 

(2) Nitrous acid, acting upon alcohol 
(ethyl hydrat), gives nitrous ether (ethyl 
nitrit) and water. 

(3) Ethyl nitrit, acted on by another 
molecule of nitrous acid, gives fulminic 
acid and water. 

(4) Mercuric nitrat (formed in the first 
reactions) may be supposed to act upon the 
fulminic acid, producing mercuric fulminate 
and nitric acid. 

Properties of mercuric fulminate. — This 
substance is deposited in the above process 
in fine needle-like crystals, which often have 
a gray color from the accidental presence 
of a little metallic mercury. It may be 
purified by boiling it with water, in which 
it is sparingly soluble, and allowing the 
fulminate to crystallize from the filtered 
solution. Very moderate friction or per- 
cussion will cause it to detonate violently, 
so that it must be kept in a corked bottle 
lest it should be exploded between the neck 
and the stopper. It is usually preserved 
in the wet state, with about one-fifth its 
weight of water. Its explosion is attended 
with a bright flash, and with gray fumes 
of metallic mercury. The violence of the 
explosion must be attributed to the sudden 
evolution of a large volume of gas and 
vapor from a small volume of solid, for 



the fulminate, being exceedingly heavy (sp. 
gr. 4.4), occupies a very small space when 
compared with the gaseous products of its 
decomposition, especially when the latter 
are expanded by the heat. One gramme of 
fulminate evolves 403.5 units of heat, giv- 
ing an estimated maximum pressure of 
48,000 atmospheres. The evolution of heat 
during the explosion, apparently in contra- 
diction to the rule that heat is absorbed 
in decomposition, must be ascribed to the 
circumstance that the heat evolved by the 




If a Thin L,ayer of Mercury Fulminate On a Sheet 

of Glass is Ignited, Metallic Mercury Will Be 

Deposited, Thus forming- a Mirror. 

oxidation of the carbon exceeds that ab- 
sorbed in the decomposition of the fulmi- 
nate. A temperature of 195 degrees Centi- 
grade explodes fulminate of mercury, and 
the same result is brought about by touch- 
ing it with a glass rod dipped in concen- 
trated sulphuric or nitric acid. The elec- 
tric spark, of course, explodes it. 

Cap composition. — The explosion of mer- 
curic fulminate is so violent and rapid that 
it is necessary to moderate it for percus- 
sion caps. For this purpose it is mixed 
with potassium nitrat or chlorat, the oxi- 
dizing property of these salts possibly caus- 
ing them to be preferred to any merely in- 
active substances, since it would tend to 
increase the temperature of the Hash by 
burning the carbonic oxid into carbon di- 
oxid, and would insure the ignition of die 
cartridge. 



70 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



For military caps, in this country, potas- 
sium chlorat is always mixed with the ful- 
minate, and powdered glass is sometimes 
added to increase the sensibility of the mix- 
ture to explosion by percussion. Antimony 
sulfid is sometimes substituted for powdered 
glass, apparently for the purpose of length- 
ening the flash by taking advantage of the 
powerful oxidizing action of potassium 
chlorat upon that compound. 
Since the composition is very liable to ex- 
plode under friction, it is made in small 
quantities at a time, and without contact 
with any hard substance. After a little of 
the composition has been introduced into 



/feeding mercury .■ 
\ fulminate o/i'es 
\ slight explosion ^> . 


i 


| Copper foil 1 x • ■ . 

Ftp 4 hewing si/ver fu/m/nafs reset /Is 
in violent explosion 





If Some Fulminate of Mercury is Heated On a 

Piece of Copper Foil a Slight Explosion Occurs; 

With Silver Fulminate a Violent Explosion 

Results. 

the cap, it is made to adhere and water- 
proofed by a drop of solution of shellac in 
wine. 

If a thin train of mercuric fulminate be 
kid upon a plate, and covered, except a 
little at one end, with gunpoivder, it will 
be found on touching the fulminate with 
a hot wire, that its explosion scatters the 
gunpowder, but does not inflame it. On 
repeating the experiment with a mixture of 
10 grains of fulminate and 15 grains of 
potassium chlorate (mixed upon paper with 
a card), the explosion will be found to in- 
flame the gunpowder. (See Fig. 1.) 



By sprinkling a thin layer of the fulmi- 
nate upon a glass plate, and firing it with 
a hot wire, the separated mercury may be 
made to coat the glass, so as to give it all 
the appearance of a looking-glass. (See 
Fig. 2.) 

Although the effect produced by the ex- 
plosion of mercuric fulminate is very vio- 
lent in its immediate neighborhood, it is 
slightly felt at a distance, and the sudden 
expansion of the gas will burst fire-arms, 
because it does not allow time for overcom- 
ing the inertia of the ball, though, if the 
barrel escape destruction, the projectile ef- 
fect of the fulminate is found inferior to 
that of power. It has been proved by ex- 
periment that the mean pressure exerted by 
the explosion of mercuric fulminate is very 
much lower than that produced by gun-cot- 
ton, and only three-fourths of that pro- 
duced by nitro-glycerin. Its great pressure 
is due to its instantaneous decomposition 
into CO, N, and Hg vapor within a space 
not sensibly greater than the volume of the 
fulminate itself, which volume being very 
small, on account of the high density of the 
fulminate, the escaping gases exert an enor- 
mous pressure at the moment of explosion. 

This detonating property of mercuric 
fulminate renders it exceedingly useful for 
effecting the detonation of gun-cotton and 
nitroglycerin. Berthellot finds that even 
such stable gases as acetylene, cyanogen and 
nitrid oxid are decomposed into their ele- 
ments by the detonation of mercuric ful- 
minate. Mercuric fulminate is generally 
contaminated with mercuric ovalat, which 
is one of the secondary products formed 
during its preparation. 

Fulminate of silver. — Silver fulminate is 
prepared by a process very similar to that 
for fulminate of mercury; but since its 
explosive properties are far more violent, 
it is not advisable to prepare so large a 
quantity. 10 grains of silver are dissolved 
at a gentle heat, in 70 minims of ordinary 
concentrated nitric acid (sp. gr. 1.42) and 
50 minims of water. 



PYROTECHNY. 



71 



As soon as the silver is dissolved, the 
lamp is removed, and 200 minims of alcohol 
(sp. gr. 0.87) are added. If the action 
does not commence after a short time, a 
very gentle heat may be applied until ef- 
fervescence begins, when the fulminate of 
silver will be deposited in minute needles 
and may be further treated as in the case 
of fulminate of mercury. 

(Note: — If the nitric acid and alcohol are 
not of the exact strength here prescribed, 
it may be somewhat difficult to start the 
action unless two or three drops of red 
nitric acid [containing nitrous acid] are 
added. Standard silver [containing copper] 
may be used for preparing the fulminate.) 
Silver fulminate is also prepared when 
nitrous anhydrid is past into an alcoholic 
solution of silver nitrate. When dry, the 
fulminate must be handled with the greatest 
caution, since it is exploded far more easily 
than the mercury salt ; it should be kept in 
small quantities, wrapt up separately in 
paper, and placed in a cardboard box. 
Nothing harder than paper should be em- 
ployed in manipulating it. The violence of 
its explosion renders it useless for percus- 
sion caps, but it is employed in detonating 
crackers. Silver fulminate is sparingly 
soluble in cold water, but dissolves in 36 
parts of boiling water. 

If a minute particle of the fulminate be 
placed upon a piece of quartz, and gently 
prest with the angle of another piece, it 
will explode with a flash and smart report. 

A throw-down detonating cracker (Fig. 
3) may be made by rolling up a particle of 
silver fulminate in a piece of thin paper, 
with some fragments obtained by crushing 
a common quartz pebble. 

The explosion of silver fulminate may be 
compared with that of the mercury salt, by 
heating small equal quantities upon thin 
copper or platinum foil, when the fulminate 
of mercury will explode with a slight puff, 
and will not injure the foil, but that of 
silver will give a loud crack and rend a hole 
in the metal. (See Fig. 4.) 



If a particle of silver fulminate be placed 
upon a glass plate and touched with a glass 
rod dipped in oil of vitriol, it will detonate 
and leave a deposit of silver upon the glass. 

When silver fulminate is dissolved in 
warm ammonia, the solution deposits, on 
cooling, crystals of a double fulminate of 
silver and ammonium, which is even more 
violently explosive, and is dangerous while 
still moist. A similar compound is formed 
with mercuric fulminate. 

Silver fulminate is also formed when 
freshly precipitated silver oxide is covered 
with a strong solution of ammonia, and 
allowed to stand for some hours, when it 
becomes black, and acquires dangerously 
explosive properties. 

Fulminating platinum. — This is obtained 
by dissolving platinic oxid in diluted sul- 
furic acid, and mixing the solution with an 
excess of ammonia, when a black precipi- 
tate of fulminating platinum is obtained, 
which detonates violently at about 400 de- 
grees F. 

_Fulminating gold. — This is obtained as a 
buff precipitat when ammonia is added to 
a solution of auric chlorid; its composition 
is not well established. It explodes vio- 
lently when gently heated. 

Fulminate of copper. — This is obtained 
by digesting copper (in the form of powder 
or filings) with fulminate of mercury or 
silver and a little water. It forms soluble 
green crystals which explode with a green 
flame. There are many other fulminates 
and they are all explosive. 



FOR FIREPROOFING ANY KIND OF 
FABRIC. 

A very good formula for this purpose is 
as follows: 

Boric acid, 50 grams. 
Borax, 60 grams. 
Water, 1,100 cu, cms. 

Paint or soak fabrics in the solution ; 
then cither hang up to dry or press fabric 
with a hot iron. 



; 



72 A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 

MAGIC SERPENTS FOR PYRO-TECHNICAL FIREWORK PAPERS AS PYROTECHNICS. 
DISPLAYS. Red Fire . 

Any of the three formulas given herewith Strontium nitrat 20 parts 

will produce the same effect when properly Potassium chlorat 10 

compounded as the ones which are for sale Alcohol 20 

in the form of a pyramid or an egg. Water 100 

1. Fuse in a crucible the following mix- Green Fire. 

ture : Prussiate of potash 46 parts, car- Barium chlorat 20 " 

bonate of potash 16 parts, sulphur 32 parts. Alcohol 20 

The heat should not be allowed to go be- Water 100 

yond a dull red and the mass should be Yellow Fire. 

removed from the fire when thoroughly Sodium oxalat . 10 " 

fused. When cold dissolve the mass in Potassium chlorat 10 " 

water and filter off the clear portion. To Alcohol 20 " 

this latter is added nitrate of mercury as Water 100 " 

long as the precipitate is thrown down, ^. ^. 

which is washed in many changes of water, ' 

collected on blotting paper, dried, rolled Potassium chlorat 10 ^ 

into little pyramids or eggs and covered ^tol 20 " 

with tinfoil. They are now ready for w t 1 00 " 

ignition. The mixture thus compounded 

is sulpho-cyanide of mercury, which can Violet Fire. 

be produced by the following method if Strontium chlorat 15 

preferred : Copper chlorat 15 " 

,, ,,. . ,. , , . ,.-. Potassium chlorat 15 " 

2. Metallic mercury is dissolved in dilute Alcohol 50 " 

nitric acid, taking the precaution of having Water 100 " 

an excess of the metal. Decant solution t -i p. 

and add to it a saturated solution of sulpho- PotassIum chlor J * _ "*' _ 2 " 

cyanide of ammonium. The precipitate Copper chlorat '. 10 " 

which falls must be collected and washed in Strontium chlorid 10 " 

several changes of water and finally dried. Alcohol 50 

Mix in a mortar this dried mass with a VVater 1UU 

little gum water to make a pasty mass, but Unsized paper is put in the solutions, 

as dry as possible. The compound now When the paper becomes saturated, then 

formed may be pressed into eggs as already rem °T e ? nd dr y b ^ hanging lt ove A r \ strin ? 

, ., j stretched across a warm room. A sheet or 

escri e * paper about 12 by 16 inches may be made 

These two compounds as described are to burn for several minutes. 

both extremely poisonous. The next has 

not this disadvantage and the residue may CHEMICAL FIRE FORMULAS. 

be used to polish brass. _ ^ . . . . „ . 

rut 9 drops of glycerol on a small piece 

3. Bichromate of potash 2 parts, salt- of paper in an evaporating dish. Then cau- 
peter 1 part, white sugar 3 parts. Pulver- tiously place 6 measures of potassium per- 
ize these ingredients separately and mix manganate on the glycerol Keep your face 

, ill • . r away. It will burn brightly with a lilac 

thoroughly and press into cones of paper cok)r ^ carbon dioxid * Q( $ 2) {$ ^^ 

These cones should be covered with tin-foil The lilac color comes from the element po- 

and varnished. tassium. 



PYROTECHNY. 



73 



The Manufacture of Colored Fire: Mix 
thoroughly on a piece of paper 4 parts of 
barium nitrate, 4 parts of potassium nitrate, 
j£ part of sulphur and 1 part of powdered 
charcoal. Pour this mixture in an evaporat- 
ing dish. Apply match. The mass will 
take fire and burn with green flame. 



HAND GRENADES. 

It often happens in a laboratory that 
some inflammable acid is accidently spilled 
or some chemicals which do not agree be 
mixed. A very bad explosion or fire is 
usually the outcome of such mistakes. 

A sanitary and safe device can be made 
by the experimenter at the cost of a few 
cents which will end chemical fires as quick 
as they begin. 

It consists of a mixture of chloride of 
calcium, twenty parts; sodium chloride 
(common salt), five parts, and water, 
eighty-five parts. Several small thin bot- 
tles are purchased, filled with this mixture 
and corked. 

When a fire occurs, one of these grenades 
should be thrown in such a way that it will 
break in or near the fire which will quickly 
be extinguished. 



A MAGIC FIRE FLUID. 

The magician appears with a small bottle 
of colorless liquid in one hand and a few 
pieces of white paper in the other. He 
proceeds to pour a little of the fluid on the 
paper and then places the paper on a screen 
or some other metal support. 

Then he steps back ; in the meantime ex- 
plaining to the audience that this magic 
fluid, invented by the Japanese thousands 
of years ago, was used by them to torture 
their prisoners, or relating any similar story 
to keep the audience interested. In a few 
minutes, usually about two, the paper will 
burst into flame spontaneously. The trick 
is very mystifying to any one who does not 
understand the principles involved. 



However, it is really very simple. The 
fluid is prepared by dissolving phosphorous 
in carbon di-sulfid. Be extremely careful 
in handling the phosphorous, to cut it un- 
der water and not to touch it with your 
hands. Also keep the carbon di-sulfid away 
from open flames, as it is very inflammable. 
The odor of the commercial product is 
rather disagreeable, but this may incidental- 
ly add to the mystery of the trick. 

What really happens is this: The phos- 
phorous is dissolved in the carbon di-sul- 
fid. When poured on the paper the carbon 
di-sulfid evaporates, leaving the phosphorous 
impregnated in the paper (in a finely divided 
form). This starts to oxidize and soon 
raises the temperature of some part of the 
paper to the kindling point. 

Practically any kind of paper will do for 
this trick. Filter and newspaper both work 
well. The main thing is not to spill it 
on anything that you do not wish to burn 
as it works 100 per cent of the time. 



HOW TO MAKE BENGAL LIGHTS. 

Take 8 parts saltpeter, sublimed sulphur 
4 parts, and antimony 1 part and mix well 
into powder. Beat firmly in stout iron cup 
and set on fire. Such lights are made use 
of for signaling long distances at sea. If 
a little camphor is added it will burn 
brighter. 



TO HANDLE FIRE WITHOUT HARM. 

Mercury neutralized in vinegar and the 
white of an egg smeared on will preserve 
anything from fire. 



FLASHLIGHT POWDERS. 

Take powdered magnesium, 3 o/t. ; pow- 
dered chlorate of potash, 6 o/>. : powdered 
sulphide of antimony, 1 oz. Mix by siev- 
ing. One hundred grams to be used each 
time a photograph is taken. 



74 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



LIGHTING A BUNSEN BURNER WITHOUT 
MATCHES. 

If a crystal of potassium chlorat is rubbed 
on the side of a safety match box, tiny 
sparks of flame will result. Xhis *s due to 
the combustion of the phosphorus on the 
box with the oxygen of the potassium 
chlorat. 



USING TELEPHONE MOUTHPIECE AS 
FLASH-POWDER HOLDER. 

An ordinary telephone mouth-piece forms 
a handy container for flashlight powder 
which is to be ignited from an induction 
coil or 110 volt circuit. The mouth-piece 
is mounted upright on a block of wood 
with two wires attached to it in such a way 
that a small spark gap is left inside the 
mouth-piece. Over this the powder h 
placed. When the push button in the pri- 
mary circuit is pressed the induction coil 
spark jumps the gap, igniting the flash- 
powder safely and accurately. Keep your 
face at least 3 to 5 feet from the powder 
when igniting it, and don't let your hands 




Make a Flash-Powder Holder Out of That Old 

Telephone Mouth-piece. A Spark Coil Ignites 

the Powder. 

get closer than this either, unless you want 
a nasty burn. 



PREPARATION OF PYROMORPHIC 
CARBON. 

Pyromorphic carbon is a substance which 
takes fire spontaneously. It is prepared 
from lead tartrat. To prepare the lead 
tartrat mix solutions of tartaric acid and 
lead acetat. Lead tartrat is precipitated. 
This is filtered, washed and dried in the 
air. 



Next an ampoule is prepared by draw- 
ing out a test tube. (See diagram.) The 
tartrat is now put in the ampoule and 
heated until no more white fumes are given 
off. It is then sealed at the constriction 



Test tube 



K0 




Finished -ampoules 




Lead tartrate 



An Interesting: Chemical Experiment of 
Spontaneous Combustion. 

before cooling. After it is thoroughly 
cooled and if the tip is broken off the sub- 
stance when sprinkled out will burst into 
flame before reaching the floor. 

On heating, lead tartrat decomposes, leav- 
ing lead and carbon. These are in such a 
finely divided state that they absorb oxygen 
— thereby bursting into flame. 



AN EXPERIMENT WITH "THERMIT." 

"Thermit" consists of a mixture of alum- 
inum and the oxid of an element — usually 
a metal — to be reduced, as Fe 2 O s , Mn0 2 , 
Si0 2 , etc. The aluminum has such intense 
affinity for oxygen that it reduces the ox- 
ides to their metals, giving a temperature 
of 3,000 deg. or over. 

The equation of the following is: 

Fe 2 3 + 2A1 = A1 2 3 + 2Fe 

Mix equal quantities of iron oxid and 
aluminum and place in a clay or sand 
crucible, through the bottom of which a Yz 
inch hole has been drilled, and the hole 
fitted with a cork. Support the crucible on 
a ring support or a ring stand, as shown in 
Fig. 1. Place some wet sand in a pan, and 
set about 6 inches under the crucible. 



PYROTECHNY. 



75 



A small hole is made In the sand with the 
finger and two nails placed in it as shown 
in Fig. 2. They should just touch each 
other. A piece of magnesium ribbon is 
placed in the mixture in the crucible and 
ignited. As soon as the ribbon is lighted 
the cork should be removed with a pair of 
pliers. This must be done quickly, and 
the operator should step aside and avoid 
being burned by the spattering which is 
quite considerable. The molten mass will 
now pour into the hole in the sand and weld 
the nails together. 







y " ■ w --- Crucible ivitf) rrMure 




m ! 5 Fig 2 

*y^^^^\ ti ,- Mf sand 





Do You Know What "Thermit" Is? This Experi- 
ment Will Get You Acquainted With It. One 
Use of It Is to Weld Street Car Rails. 



PHARAOH'S SERPENTS' EGGS. 

Take mercury and dissolve it in moder- 
ately diluted nitric acid by means of heat, 
take care, however, that there be always an 
excess of metallic mercury remaining; de- 
cant the solution and pour it in a solution 



of sulphocyanide of ammonia or potassium, 
which may be bought at a good drug store 
or of a dealer in chemicals ; equal weights of 
both will answer; a precipitate will fall to 
the bottom of the beaker or jar, which is 
collected on a filter and washed two or three 
times with water, when it is put in a warm 
place to dry; take for every pound of this 
material 1 ounce of gum tragacanth which 
has been soaked in hot water; when the 
gum is completely softened it is to be trans- 
ferred to a mortar, and the pulverized and 
dried precipitate gradually mixed with it 
by means of a little water, so as to present 
a somewhat dried pill mass, from which, 
by hand, pellets of the desired size are 
formed, put on a piece of glass, and dried 
again. They are then ready for use. 



JAPANESE MATCHES. 

(Scintellettes) — Lampblack 5 parts, sul- 
phur 11 parts, gunpowder from 26 to 30 
parts, this last proportion varying with the 
quality of the powder; grind very fine; 
make the material into a paste with alcohol, 
form it into dice about Y\ inch square with 
a knife as a spatula, let them dry rather 
gradually on a warm mantelpiece, not too 
near a fire; when dry fix one of the little 
squares into a cleft made at the end of a 
lavender stalk or, what is better, the straw- 
like material of which house carpet- 
brooms are made, light the material at a 
candle, holding the stem downward, after 
the first blazing off a ball of molten lava 
will form, from which the curious corrusca- 
tions will soon appear. 



"GST 



Polishes and Stains. 



POLISHES — 15 KINDS. 

Carvers' Polish. — White resin, 2 ozs.; 
seedlae, 2 ozs. ; spirits of wine, 1 pt. Dis- 
solve. It should be laid on warm. Avoid 
moisture and dampness when used. 

French Polish. — Gum shellac, 1 oz. ; gum 
arabic, % oz. ; gum copal, % oz. Powder 
and sift through a piece of muslin; put them 
in a closely corked bottle with 1 pt. spirits 
of wine, in a very warm situation, shaking 
every day till the gums are dissolved ; then 
strain through muslin, and cork for use. . 

Polish for Dark Colored Woods. — Seed- 
lac, 1 oz. ; gum guaiacum, 2 drs. ; dragon's 
blood, 2 drs. ; gum mastic, 2 drs. ; put in a 
bottle with 1 pt. spirits of wine, cork close, 
expose to a moderate heat till the gums are 
dissolved ; strain into a bottle for use, with 
yl gill of linseed oil; shake together. 

Waterproof Polish. — Gum benjamin, 2 
ozs. ; gum sandarac, Y\ oz. ; gum anima, % 
oz.; spirits of wine, 1 pt. ; mix in a closely 
stopped bottle, and place either in a sand 
bath or in hot water till the gums are dis- 
solved, then strain off the mixture, shake it 
up with ]/\ gill of the best clear poppy oil, 
and put it by for use. 

Finishing Polish. — Gum shellac, 2 drs.; 
gum benjamin, 2 drs.; put into y 2 pt. best 
rectified spirits of wine in a bottle closely 
corked; keep in warm place, shaking fre- 
quently till the gums are dissolved. When 
cold, shake up with it two teaspoonfuls of 
the best clear poppy oil. 

Polish for Removing Stains, Spots and 
Mildew from Furniture. — Take of 98 per 
cent, alcohol, J^ pint; pulverized resin and 
gum shellac, of each, 34 oz - Let these cut 
in the alcohol ; then add linseed oil, T / 2 pt. ; 
shake well, and apply with a sponge, brush, 
or cotton flannel, or an old newspaper, rub- 
bing it well after the application, which 
gives a nice polish. 



Polish for Reviving Old Furniture. — 
Take alcohol, \y 2 ozs.; spirits of salts 
(muriatic acid), y 2 oz. ; linseed oil, 8 ozs.; 
best vinegar, y 2 pt. ; and butter of antimony, 
\y oz.; putting in the vinegar last. 

Jet Polish for Wood or Leather, Black, 
Red, or Blue. — Alcohol (98 percent) 1 pt.; 
sealing wax, the color desired, 3 sticks; dis- 
solve by heat, and have it warm when ap- 
plied. A sponge is the best to apply it with. 

Polish for Turners' Work. — Dissolve 
sandarac, 1 oz., in spirit of wine, y 2 pt. ; 
next shave beeswax, 1 oz. ; and dissolve it in 
a sufficient quantity of spirits of turpentine 
to make it into a paste, add the former mix- 
ture by degrees to it, then with a woolen 
cloth apply it to the work while it is in mo- 
tion in the lathe, and with a soft linen rag 
polish it. It will appear as if highly var- 
nished. 

Furniture Polish. — Beeswax, y 2 lb., and 
% of an oz. of alkanet root; melt together 
in a pipkin until the former is well colored. 
Then add linseed oil and spirits of turpen- 
tine, of each half a gill; strain through a 
piece of coarse muslin. 

French Polishes. — 1. Shellac, 3 lbs. ; wood 
naphtha, 3 pts., dissolve. 2. Shellac, 2 lbs. ; 
powdered mastic and sandarac, of each 1 
oz. ; copal varnish, y 2 pint; spirits of wine, 
1 gal. Digest in the cold till dissolved. 

Black Walnut Polish. — Take pulverized 
asphaltum; put in a jar or bottle, pour 
over it about twice its bulk of turpentine or 
benzole, put in a warm place, and shake 
occasionally ; when dissolved, strain and ap- 
ply it to the wood with a cloth or stiff 
brush ; should it prove too dark, dilute with 
turpentine or benzole. If desired to bring 
out the grain still more, apply a mixture of 
boiled oil and turpentine ; this is better than 
oil alone. When the oil is dry the wood 
can be polished with the following: shellac 
varnish, 2 parts ; boiled oil, 1 part ; shake it 
well before using. Apply with a cloth, rub- 
bing briskly. 



76 



POLISHES AND STAINS. 



77 



POLISHES (Cont.) 

To Polish Wood. — Take a piece of pum- 
ice-stone and water, and pass repeatedly 
over the work until the rising of the grain 
is cut down. Then take powdered tripoli 
and boiled linseed oil, and polish the work 
to a bright surface. 

Clock Case and Picture Frame Finish. — 
Copal varnish, 2 lbs.; linseed oil varnish, 
Yz oz. ; mix well, shake often, and place in 
a warm spot. The wood to be varnished is 
prepared with a thin coat of glue-water, and 
rubbed down with fine pumice-stone or 
something equivalent. In a light-colored 
wood, a light pigment, such as chalk, is ad- 
ded to the glue-water; in dark wood, a 
dark pigment is added. When ready, the 
articles are varnished with the above mix- 
ture, and, after drying, rubbed with a solu- 
tion of wax in ether, thereby receiving a 
high polish. 

White Polish for White Woods. — White 
bleached shellac, 3 ozs. ; white gum benzoin, 
1 oz. ; gum sandarac, ^2 oz. ; spirits of wine 
or naphtha, 1 pt. Dissolve. 



STAINS OF ALL KINDS. 

The following formulas are used by 
many furniture manufacturers: 

Walnut Stain. — Dissolve in 30 oz. of 
water 1 oz. permanganate of potash. Apply 
this solution twice. Wait a few minutes 
and wash with clean water. When dry 
oil and polish. 

To Stain Pine a Walnut Color.— Mix 
thoroughly 1 pound burnt sienna, 1 pound 
dry burnt umber, and 4 oz. lamp black ; add 
to 1 gallon of very thin shellac. Apply 
with a brush. When thoroughly dry rub 
down with fine sandpaper and then give 
one coat of shellac or varnish. 

Walnut Stain for Hard Wood. — To 1 
gallon of strong vinegar add 1 pound dry 
burnt umber, ]/ 2 oz. rose pink, and l / 2 
pound dry burnt Vandyke brown. Mix 
thoroughly and apply with a brush. 



WALNUT STAIN FOR CABINETS. 

The following stain is excellently adapted 
to the finishing of wireless and electrical 
cabinets and instruments, and for various 
other wooden articles on which it is de- 
sired to have a uniform coloring or finish. 

Prepare a solution of : 6 ounces of a solu- 
tion of potassium permanganate, and 6 
ounces of sulfate of magnesia in 2 quarts 
of hot water. The solution is applied with 
a brush and the application should be re- 
peated. In contact with wood the potas- 
sium permanganate decomposes, and a last- 
ing walnut color results. If small pieces 
of wood are to be thus stained, a very di- 
lute bath is prepared according to the above 
description, then the wooden pieces are im- 
mersed and left in the solution for from 1 
to 5 minutes, according to whether a lighter 
or darker color is desired. 



The intense black color that cabinetmak- 
ers produce is obtained by moistening the 
wood with dilute sulfuric acid and after- 
wards gently heating. The following mix- 
ture answers well. Sulfuric acid, one ounce, 
water, 8 ounces. When cold add sugar in 
the proportion of 1 ounce to ten fluid 
ounces. 

Deep brown on oak can be obtained by- 
giving the wood a coat of iron chloride and 
when dry a coat of ammonium sulfide. 
This is darkened with tannic acid. 

Analine mahogany — One-half ounce Bis- 
mark brown in three pints of boiling water. 
This is darkened with tannic acid. 

Chinese Brown Mahogany — Boil log- 
wood chips in twice their bulk of water, for 
two hours; strain and add a small quantity 
of chlorid of tin. 

Vandyke brown 1 OZ., burnt umber, - ; j 
oz., aqua ammonia, 4 OZ. Mix in open air 
to avoid fumes, strain and apply. 

To brighten stain — Nitric acid ) £ oz., 
hydrochloric acid J a OZ., rain water 1 OZ. 

I\Ii\ several days before using. 



78 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Brown-Black — Logwood powder 1 oz., 
iron sulfate 1 oz. Apply separately in 
washes in order named. 

Finishing Wax. — 1 lb. best beeswax, 2 
lbs. turpentine. Place in a vessel and heat 
separately. Do not place over a fire. 

Metal Varnish — One part copal, 1 part 
oil of rosemary, in 2 or 3 pints of absolute 
alcohol. This should be applied while hot. 

Polish — One pint boiled oil, 4 oz. vin- 
egar, 2 oz. spirits of camphor, 1 oz. am- 
monia, y 2 oz. antimony. Shake and let 
stand 2 or 3 days before using. 



REMOVING STAINS OF ALL KINDS. 

Solution No. 1. 20% solution of acetic 
acid or tartaric acid. 

Solution No. 2. Five grams of bleaching 
powder (CaCIO). Boil in 100 c.c. of water 
until a pink color appears. Filter and add 
50 c.c. of cold water. 

To remove ink, coffee, tea, fruit, and dye 
stains, wet the spot thoroughly with No. 1. 
Absorb the superfluous liquid with a blotter 
and apply No. 2. Rinse and repeat if neces- 
sary. 

For removing common stains, treat as 
shown in the following table: 

STAIN REMOVED BY 

Acids .Cold water, Nos. 1 and 2. 

Grass and fruit Cold water, alcohol, Nos. 

1 and 2. 

Grease Gasoline, carbon tetra- 

c h 1 o r i d, chloroform, 
ether, carbon bisulfid, 
ammonia, soap-suds, 
warm fullers earth 
(cover with a blotter 
and apply a warm iron.) 

Dyes, coal tar or of 
vegetable origin Nos. 1 and 2, ammonia. 

Mildew ...Nos. 1 and 2, sunlight. 

Inks Nos. 1 and 2. 

Inks, indelible (silver). Potassium cyanid, 10%. 
Use great caution — in- 
tensely POISONOUS, 
Sodium hyposulfite 20% 
solution. 

Iodin Methyl alcohol, potassium 

iodid Sol. 10%. 

Iron Rust Warm oxalic or citric acid, 

10%. If in silk, let it 
alone. 

Paint, varnish Turpentine, benzine, car- 
bon tetrachlorid. Use no 
turpentine on silk. 

Tar, wagon grease ....Soap and oil, turpentine. 



STOVE POLISH. 

Black Lead, 5 parts; Bone Black, 5 parts; 
Iron Sulfate, 10 parts. Mix thoroughly and 
make into a paste with water. 



REMOVING ACID STAINS. 

If first aid is given to acid-stained cloth, 
one may often remove the stain without 
taking the trouble to neutralize the acid; 
the removing agent is merely chloroform. 
If, however, the cloth has been plainly in- 
jured or destroyed by the acid, strong am- 
monia should first be used to neutralize. 

In the case of hydrochloric or sulfuric 
acid, concentrated ammonia alone will be 
sufficient. But beware of cheap dyes! Am- 
monia will turn a pair of black-striped 
beach trousers into black trousers. In such 
a case, chloroform will also remove the 
running dye. 



POLISH FOR VARNISHING WOOD. 

Shake well together 1 pint Vinegar, 1 oz. 
Alcohol, 1 pint Linseed Oil, 1 oz. Butter of 
Antimony. 



ROSEWOOD STAIN. 

Alcohol 1 gallon, camwood 2 ounces. 
Set in a warm place 24 hours. Add extract 
of logwood 3 ounces, aqua fortis 1 ounce. 
When dissolved it is ready for use. 



A BRIGHT POLISHER. 

A few grains of butter of antimony added 
to a bottle of ordinary machine-oil proves 
to be an excellent polisher for old furniture. 
It is easily made and brightens wherever 
applied to. 



WOOD STAINS. 



To stain ebony, mix: Solution A — 
Water, 10 ounces; sulphuric acid, 1 ounce. 
Brush on and allow to sink into the wood 
to be stained, and then hold close to a fire 



POLISHES AND STAINS. 



79 



for a few minutes, in which time a rich 
black is produced. 

Solution B — Strong solution of aniline 
in alcohol or French polish. 

To Stain Walnut. — Potassium perman- 
ganate, 60 grains; water, 10 ounces. Used 
weaker it imitates oak. 



To Stain Green.— Solution A — Verdi- 
gris, 4 ounces; vinegar, 40 ounces. Solution 
B — Indigo, 1 drachm; vinegar, 20 ounces. 
Boil each for 10 minutes. Mix according 
to tint. Average proportion : (A) 6 ounces : 
(B) 1 ounce. 






Varnishes and Paints. 



VARNISHES. 

Varnishes (common Oil Varnish). — 
Resin, 4 lbs.; Beeswax, y 2 lb. ; Boiled Oil, 

1 gal. Mix with heat, then add Spirits of 
Turpentine, 2 quarts. 

Chinese Varnish. — Mastic, 2 oz. ; San- 
darac, 2 oz. ; Rectified Spirits, 1 pt. Close 
the Matrass with bladder with a pin hole 
for the escape of vapor; heat to boiling in 
a sand or water bath, and when dissolved 
strain through linen. 

Mastic Varnish. — Mastic, 1 lb.; White 
Wax, 1 oz. ; Spirits of Turpentine, 1 gal. 
Reduce the gum small, then digest it with 
heat in a closed vessel till dissolved. 

Turpentine Varnish. — Resin, 1 lb. ; Boil- 
ed Oil, 1 lb. Melt, then add Turpentine 

2 lbs. Mix well. 

Pale Varnish. — Pale African Copal, 1 
part ; fuse. Then add hot Pale Oil, 2 parts. 
Boil the mixture till it is stringy; then 
cool a little, and add Spirits of Turpentine, 

3 parts. 

Lacquer Varnish. — A good, lacquer is 
made by coloring Lac Varnish with Tur- 
meric and Annatto. Add as much of these 
two coloring substances to the varnish as 
will give the proper color; then squeeze 
the varnish through a cotton cloth, when 
it forms lacquer. 

Gold Varnish. — Digest Shellac, 16 parts; 
Gum Sandarac, Mastic, of each 3 parts; 
Crocus, 1 part; Gum Gamboge, 2 parts; 
all bruised, with Alcohol, 144 parts. If 
yellow is required, use Turmeric, Aloes, 
Saffron or Gamboge; for red, use Annatto 
or Dragons Blood to color. Turmeric, 
Gamboge and Dragon s Blood generally af- 
ford a sufficient range of colors. 

Varnish for Tools. — Take Tallow, 2 
oz. ; Resin, 1 oz., and melt together. Strain 
while hot to get rid of specks which are 
in the resin; apply a slight coat on your 
tools with a brush, and it will keep off rust 
for any length of time. 



Cabinet-Maker s Varnish. — Very pale 
Shellac, 5 lbs.; Mastic, 7 oz.; Alcohol, 90 
per cent, 5 or 6 pts. Dissolve in the cold 
with frequent stirring. Used for French 
polishing, etc. 

Waterproof Varnish. — The following is 
much used for waterproof textile fabrics: 
Boil together until thoroughly incorporated : 
2 qts. Linseed Oil and J4 lb. Flour of Sul- 
phur. Apply lukewarm. 

Electrical Varnish. — The only good var- 
nish for all kinds of electrical work, also 
for finishing wood and metal work, is 
formed by dissolving Orange Shellac in 95 
per cent. Alcohol. 

Mechanics Varnish. — Mix together: 5 
parts of Rosin, 1 part of Dragons Blood, 
1 part of Gamboge, 2. parts of Gutta 
Percha, 1 part of Shellac, 50 parts of Vola- 
tile Tar Oil. 



INSULATING VARNISH. 

White shellac 4 ounces, black aniline dye 
1 tablespoonful. The aniline dye must be 
soluble in alcohol only. This mixture, if 
correctly made, when laid on with a soft 
brush will produce a shiny black surface, 
giving the instrument a neat appearance. 
It must be laid on quickly, as it sets in a 
few seconds. 



PAINTS. 



Proportions of Colors for Ordinary 
Paints: 

White — 100 parts of White Lead. 

Black — 100 parts of Lampblack. 

Green — 25 parts of White Lead and 75 
parts of Verdigris. 

Stone — 99 parts of White Lead and 1 
part Burnt Umber. 

Lead — 98 parts of White Lead and 2 
parts of Lampblack. 

Red — 50 parts of Red Lead and 50 parts 
of Red Ocher. 

Chocolate — 4 parts of Lampblack and 95 
parts of Spanish Brown. 



80 



VARNISHES AND PAINTS, 



81 



Add the required quantity of Raw Lin- 
seed Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, Turpentine 
and Drier. 

For 20 lbs. of paint take 2 lbs. of Raw 
Linseed Oil, 2 lbs. of Boiled Linseed Oil, 
y 2 lb. of Turpentine, 1-10 lb. of Drier. 

The proportions given must only be taken 
as an approximate guide when the ma- 
terials are of good quality. 

Anti-Corrosive Paint. — Take equal parts 
(by weight) of Whiting and White Lead, 
with half the quantity of Fine Sand or 
Gravel, with a sufficient quantity of Color. 
This paint can be used as \ water color, 
but it is more durable to dry it in cakes or 
powder after mixing, and then use it as an 
oil paint by grinding it again in linseed oil. 
The proportions are: 12 parts of Raw Lin- 
seed Oil; 1 part Boiled Linseed Oil and 3 
parts of Sulphate of Lime well mixed; 1 
gal. of this prepared oil is used to 7 lbs. of 
the powder. 

Luminous Paint. — Mix together 40 parts 
of Copal Varnish (containing neither lead 
nor manganese, which would destroy the 
phosphorescence) ; 6 parts of prepared 
Barium Sulphate; 6 parts of prepared Cal- 
cium Carbonate; 12 parts of prepared 
White Zinc Sulphite; 36 parts of good 
Luminous Calcium Sulphite in a proper 
vessel to an emulsion and then grind it 
very fine in a color mill. 

Phosphorescent Paint. — Heat Strontium 
Thisulphate for 15 minutes over a good 
Bunsen gas lamp, and then for 5 minutes 
over a blast lamp. Mix with pure Melted 
Paraffin for use as a paint for clock dials, 
etc., and expose for a time to sunlight. 

Stencil Paint. — Take Shellac, 2 oz. ; 
Borax, 2 oz. ; Water, 25 oz. ; Gum Arabic, 
2 oz. ; Lampblack, sufficient quantity. Boil 
the borax and shellac in water till they are 
dissolved; when the solution has become 
cold, complete 25 oz. with water and add 
lampblack enough to bring the preparation 
to a suitable consistence. 



Innoxious Color for Painting Toys. — 
Mix 6 parts of White Fine Chalk, 3 parts 
of Calcined Magnesia (thoroughly cal- 
cined). Add a few drops of indigo solu- 
tion. Oil, turpentine, driers, as for any 
other paint. 

White Paint for Metallic Surfaces. — Oil 
paints used on metallic surfaces exposed to 
heat frequently turn yellow. If, instead of 
oil, Sodium Silicate be used, no change of 
color will be noticed. 

Marine Paint. — For metals in salt water : 
44 parts of Red Lead, 24 parts of Quick- 
silver, Sy 2 parts of Thick Turpentine. Mix 
to proper consistency with boiled linseed 
oil. Grind the turpentine and quicksilver 
together. Then grind this mixture with the 
Red Lead. 



LUMINOUS PAINTS, RED, BLUE AND 
GREEN. 

Orange — 46 parts of varnish are mixed 
with 17.5 parts prepared barium sulphate, 
1 part prepared India yellow, 1.5 parts pre- 
pared madder lake and 38 parts of luminous 
calcium sulphide. 

Green — 48 parts of varnish, 10 parts pre- 
pared barium sulphate, 8 parts green chrom- 
ic oxide and 34 parts luminous calcium sul- 
phide. 

Blue — 42 parts of varnish, 10.2 parts 
prepared barium sulphate, 6.4 parts ultra- 
marine blue, 5.4 parts cobalt blue and 46 
parts luminous calcium sulphide. 

Luminous colors for artists' use are pre- 
pared by using pure East India poppy oil, 
in same quantity, instead of the varnish, 
and taking pains to grind the materials as 
fine as possible. 



82 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



FOR CLEANING VARIOUS SUBSTANCES. 

Alabaster. — Use strong soap and water. 

Black Silk. — Brush and wipe it thor- 
oughly, lay on table with side intended to 
show, up; sponge with hot coffee strained 
through muslin; when partly dry, iron. 

To Remove Stains or Grease from Oil 
Paint. — Use bisulfld of carbon, spirits of 
turpentine, or if dry and old, use chloro- 
form. These and tar spots can be softened 
with olive oil and lard. 

Stains, Iron Rust, or Ink from Vellum 
or Parchment. — Moisten the spot with a 
solution of oxalic acid. Absorb same quick- 
ly by blotting paper or cloth. 

Rust from Steel. — Take half ounce of 
emery powder with one ounce of soap and 
rub well. 

Fruit Spots from Cotton. — Apply cold 
soap, then touch the spot with a hair pencil 
or feather dipped in chlorate of soda, then 
dip immediately in cold water. 

Grease from Silks. — Take a lump of 
magnesia, rub it wet on the spot, let it dry, 
then brush the powder off. 

Iron Rust may be removed from white 
goods by sour milk. 

Scorch Stains from White Linen. — Lay 
in bright sun. 

Mildew. — Moisten the spot with clean 
water; rub on it a thick coating of castile 
soap mixed with chalk scrapings; rub with 
end of finger, then wash off. 

Oil Marks on Wall Paper. — Apply paste 
of cold water and pipe clay, leave it on all 
night, brush off in the morning. 



Paint Spots from Clothing. — Saturate 
with equal parts turpentine and spirits of 
ammonia. 

To Cleanse House Paper. — Rub with a 
flannel cloth dipped in oatmeal. 

Black Cloth. — Mix one part of spirits of 
ammonia with three parts of warm water, 
rub with sponge or dark cloth, clean with 
water, rub with the nap. 

Furniture, for Finger Marks. — Rub with 
a soft rag and sweet oil. 

Chromos. — Go over lightly with a damp 
linen cloth. 

Zinc. — Rub with a piece of cotton cloth 
dipped in kerosene, afterwards with a dry 
cloth. 

Hands from Vegetable Stains. — Rub with 
a slice of raw potato. 

Window Glass. — Paint can be removed 
by a strong solution of soda. 

To Clean Tinware. — Common soda ap- 
plied with a moistened newspaper and pol- 
ished with a dry piece, will make it look 
like new. 



CLEANING COMPOUND. 

Mix 1 ounce of borax and 1 ounce gum 
camphor with 1 quart boiling water ; when 
cool add 1 pint of alcohol, bottle and cork 
tightly. When wanted for use, shake well 
and sponge the article to be cleaned. This 
is an excellent mixture for cleaning soiled 
black cashmere and woolen dresses, coat 
collars and black felt hats. 



JSf. 



Woodcraft 



TO PETRIFY WOOD. 

Equal quantities of gem salt, rock alum, 
white vinegar, chalk and Pebbles' powder. 
This solution will petrify wood or any other 
porous substance if put in after the ebul- 
lition is over. 

A Stone Coating for Wood: Forty parts 
chalk, fifty of resin, four of linseed oil, 
melted together; to this should be added 
one part of oxid of copper and then one 
part of sulfuric acid. This last should be 
added very carefully. Apply with a brush 
while hot. 

To Imitate Dark Woods: The appear- 
ance of walnut may be given to white woods 
by painting or sponging with a concentrated 
warm solution of permanganat of potash. 
The effect varies for different kinds of 
woods, some becoming stained rapidly, 
others requiring more time. When stained 
wash thoroughly with soft water. After 
the wood has dried it may be varnished, 
and will be found to very closely resemble 
the natural dark woods. 

To Polish Wood: Only a very few ex- 
perimenters who make their own cabinets 
know how to put a good polish on their 
woodwork. The following is a very good 
method. Take a piece of pumice stone and 
water, and pass regularly over the work 
until the rising of the grain is cut down; 
then take tripoli and boiled linseed oil, and 
polish to a bright surface. 



FILLER FOR WOOD. 

Equal parts Japan, boiled linseed oil and 
turpentine, and one-half that quantity of 
dry starch. Mix and apply with sponge or 
flannel. Dry 48 hours and apply with No. 
sandpaper. Make second application and 
when dry rub with ticking over a block of 
wood until the wood is perfectly smooth. 
Stain and finish up in any desired style. 
Use no color for oak. 



WOOD POLISHES. 

A polish for burnished wood surfaces 
may be made of the following: Wood Pulp, 
40 parts; Hydrochloric Acid, 44 parts; 
Chloride of Lime, 15 J^ parts; Turpentine, 
J4 part. Mix in the form of a paste and 
smear over the surface, allowing it to re- 
main a short time and remove it by quick 
strokes of a soft brush or leather, thoroly 
cleaning the surface. Rub gently to a 
polish with a fresh piece of cloth or chamois. 

For very highly polished surfaces the fol- 
lowing may be used : Dissolve 5 parts Potas- 
sium Carbonate in 300 parts Water; dis- 
solve in this 500 parts shaved-up Beeswax 
by boiling until the wax is partially saponi- 
fied, replacing the water evaporated. Re- 
move from the fire and stir until cold ; add 
Oil of Turpentine, 800 parts, stir con- 
stantly until a smooth emulsion results, then 
add 800 parts of Distilled Water, continu- 
ing the stirring. Wash, rinse and dry the 
surface to be polished. Apply the paste as 
uniformly and as thinly as possible; rub off 
with a soft woolen cloth. 



ACID PROOF TABLE TOPS. 

The following solutions render a table 
top impervious to the action of acids and 
alkalies. 

Solution No. 1 : 

Iron Sulfate 2 parts 

Copper Sulfate 2 

Pot. Permanganate 4 

Water 50 " 

Solution No. 2: 

Aniline 6 M 

Hydrochloric acid 9 

Water 50 " 

Two coats of solution No. 1 are applied 
with a brush — the second coat being applied 
after the first has dried. The surplus of 
the second coat is removed by rubbing, 
after which solution No. 2 is applied in 
two coats. When thoroughly dry, a coat 
of raw linseed oil is to be rubbed well into 

the wood with a cloth impregnated with it. 

83 



84 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



HOW TO PUT A PIANO FINISH ON WOOD. 

If the wireless man wishes to finish his 
instruments or table with a finish wl 
will not only last indefinitely, but closely 
rival the finish on his piano, the following 
process must be closely adhered to. The 
method described below is that which the 
manufacturers of line pianos use. 

1. Sandpaper the wood thoroughly with 
fine sandpaper. Do not sandpaper across 
the grain. 

2. Use oil stain or dye. Put on heavy 
and wipe off surplus. 

3. Next put on a good wood filler. "Rub 
filler into the wood with excelsior. The 
pores of the wood should all be filled. Rub 
across the grain. 

4. Sandpaper very lightly. 

5. Give three coats of shellac. Thin 
white shellac is preferable. Sandpaper each 
coat when the shellac is dry before applying 
the next coat. 

6. After the last coat of shellac is sand- 
papered apply a coat of the very best grade 
of varnish obtainable. Sandpaper this coat 
when dry. 

7. Apply another coat of varnish. When 
thoroughly dry rub with coarse pumice 
stone. The pumice stone is put on wet felt 
and rubbed hard until the wood is entirely 
free from lumps and perfectly smooth. Wipe 
oil all traces of the pumice stone with a 
wet rag or chamois skin. 

8. Give the last coat of varnish. 

9. Rub with fine pumice ; ::n: in the 
same manner as with the coarse, but do 
not rub as hard or as long. Rub just 
hard enough to take oft any lumps which 
the varnish might have left. "Wipe off any 
of the pumice stone remaining. 

10. Rub with rotten stone in the same 
manner; that is, very lightly. Rotten stone 
is sold in small cakes about the size of your 
fist and is likewise applied with wet felt. 
Wipe the wood clean and let it dry. 



1 1. Now rub with the palm of your hand. 
Rub hard until the wood is clear and 
smooth. You will now have a mirror-like 
finish. The wood becomes slippery after 
the hand rubbing and will not catch the 
dust. 

In applying the varnish and shellac put 
on a thick coat roughly. Then use long 
sweeping strokes with a fine brush. Always 

It until the varnish is dry before sand- 
papering. See that the varnish is always 
thin and plastic before applying. 



RESTORING THE COLOR OF MAHOGANY. 

Add y 2 ounce of Alkanet root, cut small, 
to a pint of linseed oil and when this has 
stood for about 5 or 6 days add J^ ounct 
powdered gum arabic and 1 ounce of shellac 
varnish. Let this mixture stand near the 
fire for a week and then strain. Wash the 
mahogany well with soap and water, before 
polishing with this recipe. This recipe 
Id be handy to experimenters for polish- 
ing the bases of their apparatus. 

Mahogany Stain. — Dissolve Burnt Sienna 
in vinegar. 

To make paper transparent. — By dipping 
the paper in fresh-distilled benzine, paper 
becomes transparent. This is handy for 
experimenters who desire to trace designs 

..out using ordinary tracing paper. The 
paper becomes opaque as soon as the ben- 
zine evaporates and it will be necessary to 
moisten paper again. Ink will not run on 
its surface when damp. 



SOLUTION FOR MAKING WORK TABLE 

IMPERVIOUS TO ACID AND ALKALI 

SOLUTIONS. 

Doubtless, many experimenters, especially 
those working with the various chemical 
reagents, desire some coating for the work 
table that is impervious to both acid and 
alkali solutions. The following method 
has been used in the laboratory with de- 
cided success, and is heartily recommended 
to those who desire a similar formula. 



WOODCRAFT, 



85 



Two solutions are to be made: 

Solution 1. Iron sulfate, 4 parts; copper 
sulfate, 4 parts; potassium permanganate, 
8 parts; water, 100 parts. 

Solution 2. Aniline, 12 parts; hydro- 
chloric acid, 18 parts; water, 100 parts, or 
aniline hydrochlora'te, 15 parts; water, 100 
parts. 

Apply two coats of solution No. 1, while 
hot, applying the second coat as soon as the 
first has dried. After solution No. 1 has 
dried, the excess of solution which has dried 
upon the surface of the wood is thoroughly 
rubbed off before the application of solution 
No. 2. 

Next, two coats of solution No. 2 are 
applied, and the wood permitted to dry 
thoroughly. The black color does not ap- 
pear at once, but requires a few hours be- 
fore turning to a rich ebony-black color. 
Later a coat of raw linseed oil is to be ap- 
plied with a cloth. 

The tables are cleaned very easily by 
washing with water or suds after any work 
is finished, and the application of another 
coat of oil puts them in excellent order for 
another experiment. 



WOOD POLISHES. 

1. The wood is first well smoothed with 
fine sandpaper, then covered with a thin 
coating of size from transparent glue, or 
thin shellac, to prevent the varnish from 
sinking into the wood. When dry, pour 
some varnish into a saucer, take a fine 
camel's hair brush, and commence to var- 
nish at one corner, gradually spreading over 
the whole surface. Take care that there 
is not too much varnish on the brush, other- 
wise an even surface cannot be obtained. 
The first coating must be allowed to dry, 
which will take 2 or 3 hours; then sand- 
paper the surface smooth. This done, with 
great care spread the next coat of varnish, 
always using sandpaper when the surface 
does not turn out smooth. 



The whole, when dry, may be rubbed 
well with a piece of warm woolen till bright 
and smooth. 2. To French polish, make the 
wood smooth ; then pour some prepared pol- 
ish into a saucer, and some linseed oil into 
another; take some pieces of woolen rag, 
and roll them up into a ball, covering them 
with a piece of linen drawn tightly over; 
the rags inside should first be saturated with 
the polish, and the whole should be taken in 
the fingers of the right hand in such a way 
that the linen may be drawn tightly over, 
and may present to the wood a smooth 
rounded surface. Polish with free, circular 
strokes, and gradually traverse the whole 
surface ; apply now and then a drop of polish 
and a drop of oil to the surface of the rub- 
ber. When the grain of the wood disappears, 
allow it to stand 1 hour, or until hard, and 
then sandpaper the whole; repeat the pol- 
ishing until smooth. If dull patches appear 
they may be removed by a few drops of 
spirits wine or a new rubber. 

3. Dissolve, by heat, so much beeswax in 
spirits turpentine, that when cold it shall 
be thick as honey. This may be applied to 
furniture or to work running in the lathe, 
by means of a piece of clean cloth, and as 
much as possible should then be rubbed off 
by means of a clean flannel. Beeswax alone 
is often used ; upon furniture it must be 
melted by means of a warm flat-iron ; but it 
may be applied to work in the lathe, by 
holding the wax against it until a portion 
of it adheres; a piece of woolen cloth should 
then be held upon it, and the lathe turned 
quickly, so as to melt the wax ; the superflu- 
ous portion may be removed by a small piece 
of wood, when a light touch with a clean 
part of the cloth will give it a irloss. A 
good polish may he given to mahogany by 
nibbing it with linseed oil, ami then holding 
against it a cloth dipped in tine brick dust. 



86 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



4. (Dark.) Seed lac 1 ounce, gum guaia- 
cum, dragon's blood, and gum mastic, of 
each 2 drams. Put in a bottle with 1 pint 
spirits wine ; cork close ; expose to a mod- 
erate heat till dissolved ; strain into a bottle 
for use, with *4 gill linseed oil; shake to- 
gether. 



5. Take a piece of smooth pumice stone 
and water and pass repeatedly over the work 
till the rising of the grain is cut down ; 
then take powdered tripoli and boiled lin- 
seed oil, and polish bright. 






Laboratory Hints and Experiments (Chemical). 



PRACTICAL CHEMICAL LABORATORY 
DEVICES. 

There are many instruments and opera- 
tions in chemistry that can be so improved 
as to make them handier or to shorten the 
time required for a given process. Many 
of these are in everyday use in large labora- 
tories but the experimenter hears but little 
of them. 



fjunnet 



ti Rod in tube 



ShomMeffect \- 
of pressure an) 
sides of Tube- 






To aspirator 



improved 
-^/pipef& 






face* 




ffr*K 



Here Are a Home-made Burette-Pipette and a 
Vacuum- Filter of Simple and Ingenious Construc- 
tion Welcome in Every Laboratory. 



A form of burette, or more properly a 
pipette, having several advantages is shown 
in Fig. 1. Instead of the usual form with 
the stop-cock at the bottom, a plain gradu- 
ated tube is fitted at the top with a 6-inch 
length of rubber tubing. The valve in this 
case is made by sliding a short length of 
glass rod into the rubber tube, locating the 
same midway of its length. The tube is 
normally kept closed by this rod but a slight 
pressure on one side of the rubber will 
cause the tube to buckle out and form a 
channel through which liquids or air can 
flow. 

The device can be filled either by sucking 
the fluid up into the tube with the mouth or 
by immersing it into the fluid with the valve 
open and removing after the valve is closed. 



This valve will give a finer regulation of the 
discharge than the usual stop-cock, a drop 




Cork 



:? 



/Glass rod 




Gloss moiJ 



Test 
tab* 



Fig.S 




'Device in use 



An Automatic Saturator Is Easily Made as Shown 
in Above Diagram and May Come in Handy. 

at a time or a steady stream being readily 
attainable. 

Vacuum Filter: When filtering thick 
fluids the process may be speeded up by the 
use of a vacuum filtering device. To create 
the vacuum, use can be made of the glass 
aspirators which are procurable at a very 




This Suggestion to Get Rid of All Obnoxious 

Fumes in the Small laboratory Is Certainly 

Meritorious and Shows What a Little Ingenuity 

Will Attain. 

reasonable price. To use this for filtering, 
the receiver is fitted with a cork having two 
holes. One, large enough to take the spout 
of the funnel, the other having a short glass 
tube inserted. See Fig. 2. 



87 



88 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



A wad of absorbent cotton is placed in 
the bottom of the funnel and reaching a 
short distance up the sides. This is to sup- 
port the filter paper and prevent it breaking 
under air pressure. The bent glass tube is 
connected to the aspirator and when the 
water flow is started a slight vacuum will 
exist in the receiver. Any liquid poured 
into the funnel will be filtered at a rapid 
rate due to the air pressure forcing it 
through. 

Saturated Solution Apparatus. 

Saturated solutions of salts can be more 
quickly made by supporting the salt near 
the surface of the liquid. The idea being 
that as the salt dissolves the fluid gets 
heavier and sinks to the bottom, being re- 
placed by other fluid. This circulation is 
automatic and continues till the saturation 
point is reached. 

A little device, easily made of glass, that 
can be used w T ith all chemicals is shown in 
Fig. 3. The body is made by cutting a two 
inch length from a large test tube and bend- 
ing in the edges at the cut by heating till 
soft in a Bunsen flame. A wad of glass 
wool is placed in the tube, being held in 
place by the turned-in edge. The glass rod 
used to support the device is fastened in 
place by heating the rod and tube where 
they are to be joined until soft and then 
pressing them together. A cork fitted over 
the rod will support the device inside a 
bottle. 

In use the tube is filled with the salt to be 
dissolved and placed in the bottle contain- 
ing the solvent at such a height that the top 
of the tube is just below the surface. Ad- 
ditional salts may be added from time to 
time as found necessary. 

The aspirator mentioned in connection 
with filtering can be used with advantage 
when drying or evaporating. In this case 
the evaporating dish is covered by a funnel 
the spout of which is connected to the 



suction tube of the aspirator; see Fig. 4. 
The vacuum created will draw off all fumes 
and vapors at a rapid rate. Should the 
vapor be required for further experiment a 
condenser can be connected in the line be- 
tween the funnel and the aspirator to con- 
dense the vapor. 



AN INTERESTING CHEMICAL 
EXPERIMENT. 

Dissolve a little cobalt chlorid in some 
aque regia (by heating). The mixture will 
be green. Add a few drops of water and it 
will turn red. Add three times as much 
water as mixture and use for invisible ink; 
when heated it will turn blue. 



HOME-MADE DISTILLING APPARATUS. 

The accompanying sketch illustrates a 
home-made Distilling Apparatus. The 
condenser is made from a student lamp 
chimney. Insert a cork at both ends and 
bore them for glass tubing. Tube A should 
extend straight through the condenser; tube 
D should extend about an inch below the 



*g.z 



Cwofco/0ater 

? L 





£ Topon or s t 



fi'S-i 



Easily Made Distilling Apparatus Which Every 

Amateur Chemist Will Find Extremely Useful 

About the Laboratory. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



89 



cork. I found that if tube D is cut off 
about four inches below the bend and a 
long piece of rubber tubing used instead of 
a long glass one it would cost less and be 
more serviceable. Tube C should extend 
about 1 inch above the bottom cork. The 
condenser is held in place by a piece of 
wood, shaped as in Fig. 2, fastened on a 
shelf above the bench. 

The boiler K is an empty coffee can. A 
hole is cut in the cover and the neck of an 
empty maple syrup can is soldered over it. 
The cover is then soldered on the can so 
that the steam cannot escape. Three pieces 
of tin are next soldered on to form a sup- 
port. 

Another can L is fitted with a small 
faucet which can be obtained from an old 
gas jet. This can is supported on legs 
like the boiler. Care should be taken that 
the bottom of the can L is on a level or 
higher than the top of the condenser. 

When the water boils in can K, the steam 
passes through tube A. The faucet on can 
L is turned on; cold water flows through 
tube C and circulates through the condenser 
and flows out through tube D into a sink 
or a large pan. The distillate is caught at 
E. 

If, when the water is turned on, the lower 
cork leaks some melted paraffin should be 
poured slowly into the tube and allowed to 
harden. This may be done on both sides 
of the lower cork. 

If anything besides water is to be dis- 
tilled a glass flask must be used instead of 
can K. 



HANDY DISTILLED WATER SUPPLY. 

The accompanying drawing shows a con- 
venient method for having a handy supply 
of distilled water. When it is once started 
siphoning through the bent tube, it will al- 
ways be ready. Any amount can be drawn 
at will. 



The thistle tube permits the air to enter 
the container, while the cotton in it keeps 
the dust, etc., from getting into the water. 
The drawing explains fully the construc- 
tion. 



Cotton, 
Thistle tube - 



.Disttlled water 




*• Rubber tube 



Here Is a Very Handy Distilled Water Supply 
Acting on the Siphon Principle. 



/ CHEMICAL BAROMETER. 

To make a chemical barometer take po- 
tassium nitrate, 30 grs. ; ammonium chlor- 
ide, 30 grs.; camphor, 120 grs.; alcohol, 2 
ozs. Put the mixture in a bottle ten inches 
long and Y\ inch in diameter. Cover the 
bottle with a piece of perforated plaster. 
If fine weather is indicated the insoluble 
matter will settle at the bottom of the 
bottle; previous to a change for rain the 
compound gradually raises, the fluid remain- 
ing transparent. 



90 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Twenty-four hours before a storm or 
very high wind the substance will be partly 
on the surface, the fluid being turbid and 
in a state resembling fermentation. 



STORM GLASS OR BAROSCOPE. 

Potassium nitrat Gr. 30 

Ammonium chlorid Gr. 36 

Absolute alcohol Fl. Dr. 6 

Alcohol Fl.Dr. 6 

Put the mixture into a bottle 18 inches 
in length and ^J inch in diameter, and cover 
the mouth with a piece of perforated plaster. 

If the weather is to be fair the insoluble 
matter will settle at the bottom of the tube, 
while the liquid remains pellucid ; but previ- 
ous to a change for rain, the compound will 
gradually rise, the fluid remaining trans- 
parent. Twenty-four hours before a storm 
or very high wind the substance will be 
partly on the surface of the liquid, appar- 
ently in the form of a leaf; the fluid in 
such cases will be very turbid and in a state 
resembling fermentation. 



A SIMPLY CONSTRUCTED GAS 
GENERATOR. 

Among the automatic gas generators on 
the market there are few within reach of 
the average experimenter. To meet this 





y *c#_ 






/- 


1 (l 

|Mi| 


ft 

V 








WBML 




This Illustration Shows the Different Parts Com- 
posing: the "Gas Generator" Here Described. 



Sectional View of Gas Generator. 

condition, Prof. C. D. Dilts has recently 
developed a generator which may be easily 
and cheaply constructed. In experimenting 
with qualitative analysis a constant supply 
of hydrogen sulfide is essential. This gener- 
ator, being self-regulating, will furnish a 
constant flow of hydrogen sulfide, carbon di- 
oxid, or hydrogen. The principle of opera- 
tion is the same as that of the well-known 
Kipp generator, namely that when the gas 
formed is not allowed to escape the solid 
material is automatically raised out of the 
liquid, but when the pressure is relieved 
the solid substance is lowered into the 
liquid, and the generator begins to func- 
tion. As will be seen in the drawing, the 
four parts are: first, a glass jar or con- 
tainer; second, a bottle of slightly smaller 
diameter, with the bottom removed, and 
fitted with a stopcock in the top; third, a 
lead basket for holding the solid material; 
and fourth, a small wash bottle. 

The glass jar may be easily made by cut- 
ting off the top of a large bottle. There 
are many methods which may be employed 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



91 




Completely Assembled Gas Generator and Wash 
Bottle. 

in removing the bell of the bottle, but by 
far the best and surest is the one described 
below. 

Several long strips of newspaper, about 
an inch wide, should be soaked in water and 
wound about the bottle in two bands at the 
place where it is desired to break the bottle. 
About a quarter of an inch should be left 
between the two bands. The bottle should 
then be slowly revolved with the hands, al- 
lowing a blow-pipe flame to play upon the 
exposed part between the bands. When 
this portion is heated sufficiently the ap- 
plication of a drop of water will cause the 
glass to be evenly broken. The edges should 
then be smoothed on a soft grindstone. The 
bottom of the smaller bottle is removed in 
the same manner. 

The sheet lead for the basket may be pro- 
cured at any plumbing shop. It may be 
easily bent to the required shape, leaving 
small holes in the bottom to allow the acid 
to enter. The basket is suspended by means 
of a closed piece of glass tubing, bent to 
form a hook, which runs through the two- 
hole stopper. The delivery tube from the 
bottle may be fitted either with a glass stop- 
cock or with rubber tubing and metal pinch- 
cock. Altho not absolutely necessary, a 
wash bottle is a desirable addition to the 



generator, as it not only steadies the flow 
but cleans and purifies the gas. 

The apparatus should now be assembled 
as is illustrated in the drawing and photo- 
graph. The solid material, such as iron 
sulfid (when H 2 S is desired) is placed in 
the lead basket and the dilute acid in the 
glass jar. When the smaller bottle is placed 
in the jar the acid, reacting with the iron 
sulfid, engenders a flow of H 2 S which forces 
the acid out of the basket if the stop-cock 
is closed. When the stop-cock is opened, 
the gas escapes and allows the acid to touch 
the iron sulfid, again causing the formation 
of H 2 S. Thus gas is always easily pro- 
curable without waste of material. 



A RELIABLE HYDROGEN SULFID 
GENERATOR. 

Herewith is a plan and description of a 
simple and cheap hydrogen sulfid generator. 

This hydrogen sulfid generator has given 
very satisfactory service to the author. It 
can also be used for generating hydrogen, 
carbon dioxid, etc. 

The necessary parts are : 

1. Student lamp chimney. 

2. Glass or porcelain jar (a large fruit 

jar will do). 

3. Glass stop cock. 



One hole stopper. 



Gloss jar ■ 

tl CI dilute -"■ 




Stop-cocA 



Student tomp 
" 'chimney 



J hole rubber 
corker piece of 
leacf 



A Simple Yet Reliable Hydrogen Svlfld Generator 
Made From » Few o<i»i Pieo o i of Appototut to 

Bo Found About tho Laboratory. 



92 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



4. Rubber stoppers, three hole and one 

hole. 

5. Iron sulfid (FeS). 

6. Hydrochloric acid (HC1). 



and the cork inserted. Diluted sulfuric acid 
is put into tube B, filling it about two- 
thirds full. When tube A is inserted into 
tube B, a large volume of gas is produced. 

If hydrogen is wanted, small clippings 
of iron or iron filings are put into tube A, 



A SIMPLE GAS GENERATOR. 

Frequently small quantities of gas are de- 
sired in the chemical laboratory, and no 
convenient and simple method of generation 
can be found. The apparatus described is 
very simple, yet it serves the purpose ad- 
mirably. 

First, procure two test tubes, one having 
dimensions approximately y§" x 7" long, 
the other approximately ]4" x 10" long. 
In the bottom of the smaller test tube file 
a small hole with a triangular file (Fig. 1), 
into this test tube fit a one-hole rubber stop- 



WbeJf 
\ 







y 



/ron 
su/ph/de 



Tub* 8' 

jL 



D/Iute 
h 2 so 4 \ . 



fig. 2 



Mole infest fube 



6 



i^yk 



r P v.Tjrii 



In Simplicity This Little Gas Generator Is 

Undoubtedly Unrivalled. Two Test-Tubes, a Cork, 

Some Rubber and Glass Tubing — That's All. 

per. Fit stopper, with a right angle, con- 
necting tube, and straight delivery tube, as 
in Fig. 2, and insert in smaller test tube. 
The smaller tube A, is inserted in the tube 
B, the flare of tube A prevents it from slip- 
ping through to the bottom of tube B. 

In operating: If H 2 S is to be generated, a 
stick of FeS, iron sulfid is placed in tube A, 



0/ghf anq/e t(/6e-. 



Tube A 



Rubber tube 




/ton 
su/ph/rfe 



Tube B 




: J D/fufe 



X. 



r . 



f&S 



The Gas Generator Ready Assembled for Business. 

and lowered into the dilute acid' in B. Re- 
moving tube A stops the generation of gas. 

If carbon dioxid is to be generated, fill 
tube A with marble chips and tube B with 
dilute hydrochloric acid. 

It is evident that the parts of the genera- 
tor can be easily cleaned and new chemicals 
put in. The completed apparatus is shown 
in Fig. 3. 



A SIMPLE KIPP GENERATOR. 

The Kipp generator shown in the accom- 
panying drawings can be easily and cheaply 
constructed. The drawing explains itself, 
so far as construction is concerned. The 
test tube should be as large as possible, but 
one 6" by Y^" will do very well. The best 
way to cut the end off the test tube is to 
encircle it with a file scratch, wind two 
strips of wet filter paper around it 1/16" 
from the mark, and then heat the tube be- 
tween the strips, when it will crack cleanly. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



93 



Such an apparatus, which will deliver a 
stream of gas at any time, is a great con- 
venience and time-saver in almost any ex- 



Pinch cxt .Rubber rube 



Test tube 




Rubber cor Jr 
Thistle Tube 



Simple Kipp Gas Generator, Made from Section 

of Test Tube, a Bent Thistle Tube and Two 

Rubber Corks. 

perimenter's laboratory. For generating: 
Hydrogen, chlorin, carbon dioxid, or hy- 
drogen sulfide, use: Dilute hydrochloric 
acid (1 : 3) in the thistle tube and granu- 
lated zinc, potassium permanganate, marble 
chips or iron sulfide respectively in the test 
tube. 



A PRACTICAL HYDROGEN SULFID 
GENERATOR FOR THE CHEMIST. 

Hydrogen sulfid is an absolute necessity 
in every laboratory where analysis is carried 
out, but, as this gas is quite poisonous and, 
furthermore, possesses a characteristic, dis- 



agreeable odor, it is essential that it be 
generated at the time of using. 

Below is described a simple generator of 
my own design, which, from my experience, 
has proved a complete success. As will be 
seen, the action is essentially the same as 
in the well-known "Kipp," but, as the con- 
struction of this differs somewhat from my 
own design, I have found it necessary t» 
add certain additional parts. 

The materials needed are: 

1 Wide mouth glass bottle G. 

- 1 Gas cylinder. 

' 1 Tube (6" x 1" diameter) made from 
narrow bottle. 

1 Atomizer bulb. 

3 Glass taps, or pinch cocks. 

3 Rubber corks to fit tube, cylinder and 
bottle. 

1 Thin one-holed cork (to hold FeS in 
tube). 

Rubber connections and glass tubing. 

Chemicals : — Ferrous sulfid. 

Hydrochloric acid. 




This Novel Hydrogen Sulfid (ins (ienerntor Can 

Bo Constructed from Parts Found About the 

Workshop. 



The essential working of the generator is 
as follows: 

When tap A is turned (see figure) the 
acid rises in tube B, coining in contact with 
the ferrous sulfid, thus generating hydrogen 



94 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



sulfid gas, which, passing through the wash 
bottle C is purified and escapes at D. 

Use of the Bulb. — The pressure in tube 
B required to overcome the counter pres- 
sure exerted by the water in the wash bottle 
is often strong enough to force down the 
acid in the tube B, and thus from further 
contact with the ferrous sulfid. The result 
is "no gas." Upon squeezing the bulb, how- 
ever, the pressure is overcome and the acid 
rises in tube B, thus forcing out the gas. I 
have proved this in practise. It is essential 
that a bulb having an air inlet is employed, 
otherwise it is useless. 

Use of the Pinch Cock "F."—In order 
that the acid may rise in tube B it is neces- 
sary to open the pinch cock F to admit air. 




4,r- 

' nlet ! 



FerrgusJu/pti/'de^Thin one-hole cork 



Details of Hydrogen Sulfid Gas Generator, 

This is also necessary, when shutting oft the 
generator, in order to expel air, but it 
should be kept closed when the acid has 
reached "low level," to prevent rise in case 
of leakage or lessening of pressure, due to 
the hydrogen sulfid dissolving in the acid. 

Any amateur chemist may set up this ap- 
paratus without much expense and I am 
confident that, if constructed upon this plan, 
it will give no trouble and the result is an 
odorless and convenient generator which 
makes a fine looking piece of apparatus for 
any laboratory. 



CHEMICAL WRINKLES. 

To Render Water Surface Phosphores- 
cent. — Wet a lump of loaf sugar with phos- 
phorized ether, and throw into a basin of 
water ; the surface of the water will become 
luminous, and glow beautifully in the dark. 
By gently blowing upon it, phosphorescent 
undulations will be formed, which will il- 
luminate the air above the fluid for a con- 
siderable, space. In winter the water must 
be blood warm. 

To melt a coin in a nut shell. — Mix 
three parts of dried niter, one of sulphur, 
and one of fine dry sawdust and press into 
a walnut shell, also inclose within the shell 
a piece of silver or copper, then fill the 
shell with more powder and set fire to it. 
The metal will soon be melted while the 
shell will be merely blackened. 

The alchemists' dyes. — Dissolve indigo 
in diluted sulphuric acid, and add to it 
an equal quantity of solution of carbonate 
of potash. If a piece of white cloth be 
dipped in the mixture, it will be changed to 
blue ; yellow cloth in the same mixture will 
be changed to green; red to purple; and 
blue litmus paper to red. 

Two solids make a liquid. — Rub to- 
gether in a mortar equal quantities of crys- 
tals of Glaubers salts and nitrat of am- 
monia, and the two will slowly become a 
liquid. 



MAKING A SOLID FROM TWO LIQUIDS. 

Make up a transparent solution of zinc 
sulphate. Fill a glass half full of zinc 
sulphate solution and another half glass 
full of strong ammonia. Pour them to- 
gether and if the proportion be properly 
calculated the two liquids will form a solid 
so apparently dry that on inverting the 
glass containing it not a drop will fall out. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



95 



TO MAKE SOLIDS FROM LIQUIDS. 

The spectacle of changing liquids into 
solids is at once both beautiful and mystify- 
ing. 

Pour a concentrated solution of water 
glass (sodium silicate) into a glass and add 
enough hydrochloric acid to make the solu- 
tion acid. The solution will turn into a 
solid resembling an opal and if the dish is 
inverted, will not fall out. 

Dissolve a lump of alum in water and 
add enough ammonia water so that the solu- 
tion smells strongly of it. Shake the mix- 
ture and it will turn into a thick transparent 
jelly. 



use, not only to prevent fumes escaping into 
the air (in the case of nitric and hydro- 
chloric acids) but also to preserve the liquids 
from dust and deterioration. 



HOW TO MAKE A VOLCANO. 

Take a bowl or crock about 6 inches in 
diameter and fill it up with earth, so that 
it resembles a miniature mountain. Make 
a hole about ^4. of an inch in diameter and 
6 inches deep for the crater. 

Fill up this crater with a mixture of po- 
tassium chloride 3 parts, sulphur 1 part, 
charcoal 1 part, wax 2 parts and sugar 2 
parts. Now light the mixture in the crater. 
The result will be a dense smoke, fire com- 
ing from the crater with lava pouring down 
its sides. 



ACCIDENTS WITH ACIDS. 

When strong mineral acids (nitric, sul- 
phuric, and hydrochloric acids) are used for 
experimental purposes it is a good plan to 
keep some washing soda handy in case of 
accident. If acid is spilled on the floor or 
table, a little soda should be sprinkled over 
it at once, and afterwards removed with a 
wet rag. Another useful dodge is to keep 
a saucer on the table in which the glass 
stoppers of acid bottles can be placed when 
removed. Of course, the stoppers should 
be put back in the bottles immediately after 



INTERESTING EXPERIMENTS FOR THE 
AMATEUR CHEMIST. 

The following experiments can be per- 
formed with household chemicals: 

If you possess a battery giving from 4 to 
20 volts you can perform the following ex- 
periment, which is particularly interesting 
on account of the variation of results, with 
apparently the same conditions: 

Immerse two pieces of brass in a strong 
solution of common salt or sal-ammoniac 
and water. Connect one piece to the posi- 
tive wire and the other to the negative, 
taking care that the brass pieces do not 
touch each other. 

After the current has passed for one or 
two minutes the solution will become col- 
ored, and if the process is continued a col- 
ored pigment will be precipitated. The 
color of the precipitant varies considerably 
and may be either red, purple, green, blue, 
orange and possibly others, depending on 
the strength of the current and the compo- 
sition of the brass. 

The Grand Rapids can be made as fol- 
lows: Fill a tumbler or test tube with 
water, throw upon its surface a few frag- 
ments or thin shavings of camphor gum 
and they will instantly begin to move and 
acquire a motion both progressive and ro- 
tary, which will continue for a considerable 
period of time. If the water be touched 
by any greasy substance the floating par- 
tides will reverse their course and dart 
back and, as if by a stroke of magic, be 
instantly deprived of their motion ami 
vivacity. 

A Rival to Jack Frost is produced by dis- 
solving camphor gum in warm spirits until 
the spirits will dissolve no nunc; pour sonic 
of the solution into a ami test tube or 



96 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



tumbler and the camphor will instantly 
crystallize in beautiful forms like trees and 
landscapes. 

This next experiment sounds as if it 
were "bigger," but it is not. Dissolve 150 
parts of hyposulphite of soda in 15 parts 
of water and pour the solution slowly into 
a test tube or tumbler which has been 
heated in boiling water ; fill the same about 
one-half full. Dissolve in another glass 100 
parts of acetate of soda in 15 parts of boil- 
ing water. Pour this solution slowly on 
the top of the first in such a way that it 
forms an upper layer, without mixing the 
solutions. The two solutions are then cov- 
ered over with a thin layer of boiling water 
and allowed to cool. Lower into the test 
tube a wire, at the extremity of which is 
fixed a small crystal of hyposulphite of 
soda. The crystal traverses the solution of 
acetate without causing trouble, but crys- 
tallization will immediately set in as soon 
as it touches the lower hyposulphite of soda 
solution. When the hyposulphite of soda 
solution becomes crystallized, lower in the 
upper solution a crystal of acetate of soda 
suspended by another wire and this will 
crystallize the same as the other solution. 



RADIO-ACTIVITY FROM GAS MANTLES. 

Here is an interesting experiment on 
Radio-activity. I obtained some Welsbach 
gas mantles, powdered them and placed 
the same in a cardboard box. I then put a 
key in the powder and covered it with a 
piece of cardboard, on top of which I laid 
a piece of sensitized photographic paper 
with the sensitized surface down. The 
above operations were all done in a dark 
room lighted only by a ruby lamp. The 
box was then covered and left in a dark 
room for one week. At the end of this 
period I found that upon developing the 
photographic paper that there was an in- 
distinct impression of the key on the same. 



The radio-active rays which are a property 
of the rare metal, Thorium, a small quan- 
tity of which is contained in these mantels, 
had passed through the cardboard and af- 
fected the sensitized paper. 



HINTS ON LABORATORY APPARATUS. 

To most experimenters chemistry un- 
doubtedly proves a most interesting study. 
However the chief fault lies in the fact 
that things mess up so easily. The follow- 
ing is intended to overcome this difficulty. 

First of all the laboratory should be ar- 
ranged that the one who uses the room may 
be able to find everything he wants. 

A gross of empty wooden boxes, 12 
inches x 8 inches x 4 inches, will be found 
convenient for keeping dry reagents in. 

Labels should be used freely, and all un- 
labeled bottles washed out. Paper labels 
on bottles may be protected by a coating of 
paraffin wax, varnish or shellac. But most 
bottles should have some label in the sub- 
stance of the glass. These are made in two 
forms. Enameled labels are melted on the 
glass. They last well, but white enamel is 
not always distinct when white crystals are 
in the bottle. Sand-blast labels are made 
by roughening the surface of the glass with 
a jet of sand driven by a blast of air. They 
are apt to be indistinct when wet, if not 
made with a really rough surface. They 
can be made more distinct by rubbing over 
with crayon or chalk. Sand blast labels 
cost only about half as much as enamel 
labels. 

Retort stands should be firm and sub- 
stantial. The sliding collars for the rings 
should be slotted at the sides, so as to move 
easily; and a good clamp should be chosen 
with well-made screw threads. 

Deflagrating spoons can be cleaned by 
holding the cup in the Bunsen flame for a 
few seconds. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



97 



Bunsen burners occasionally get blocked 
by some molten substance falling into the 
inner tube. They may be cleaned by wash- 
ing with water. After washing blow 
through the burner to remove any drop of 
water which may clog the exit. The re- 
volving tube or ring should be frequently 
turned, so as to keep it in order; otherwise 
they get jammed and it is impossible to 
change quickly from a yellow to a blue 
flame. 

Balances should turn with much less than 
a centigram. Balances with steel knife- 
edges, if protected from the air of the lab- 
oratory, will remain serviceable for years. 
Those with agate edges set in steel are 
more durable, but are more expensive. 
Weights less than a centigram are needless, 
and cause trouble to beginners. More exact 
weighing can always be done by watching 
the pointer, if the weights are accurate. 

Management of mercury. Mercury is 
difficult to manage, on account of its weight 
and the ease with which it picks up impuri- 
ties. Stone-ware mortars are better for hold- 
ing mercury than glass beakers, which 
easily crack when set down. All opera- 
tions with mercury should be conducted 
over a tray or on a table with a groove 
around the edge. 

Dust on the surface of mercury may be 
removed by allowing the mercury to run 
through a dry filter paper in which a few 
pin holes have been made. Or the mercury 
may be washed in a current of water, and 
then passed through a separating funnel. 
The little moisture on the surface may be 
removed with a blotting paper. Many met- 
als easily dissolve in mercury; and a very 
little tin or zinc will spoil its fluidity. They 
are best removed by shaking the mercury in 
a bottle with a little nitric acid ; the tin or 
zinc will then dissolve, leaving the mercury 
pure. 



A few words of caution concerning the 
care of reagent bottles are in place here. A 
good reagent bottle must have its stopper 
ground to fit it, and this stopper will not fit 
any other bottle you may have. Conse- 
quently the stoppers should never be inter- 
changed. Again, the stoppers of all re- 
agent bottles, excepting sulphuric acid, 
should be paraffined, otherwise they are apt 
to stick. 

Do not lay down the cork of a reagent 
bottle while pouring out a solution, as the 
stoppers may become changed. Again, no 
solution but the one corresponding to the 
name on the bottle should ever be placed in 
the bottle. 

Another important item is that each bot- 
tle shall have its own particular place on 
the shelf, and always be put in its place; 
thus the amateur chemist will know exactly 
where to find the proper reagent, just as a 
printer knows where to find the letters in 
his case, by prearrangement. 



USEFUL LABORATORY INFORMATION. 

Rain water may be used as distilled 
water, providing it is clean. 

Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. 

Vinegar contains dilute acetic acid. 

Common table salt is sodium chlorid. 

Rust from a nail or other iron is ferric 
oxid. 

Tea contains tannic acid. 

Blackboard chalk is calcium carbonate. 

Epsom salts is magnesium sulphate. 

Sugar of lead is lead acetat. 

Aqua fortis is nitric acid. 

Aqua-regia is a mixture of nitric and 
hydrochloric acids. 

Sal ammoniac is ammonium chlorid. 

Sal soda is sodium carbonate. 

"Hypo" is sodium thisulfatc. 

Denatured alcohol is principally | mix- 
ture of wood and grain alcohol. 

A porcelain mortar or pestle makes an 
excellent whet-stone. 



98 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Aqua ammonia is ammonium hydroxid. 

"Lye" or caustic soda is sodium hydroxid. 

Quicklime is calcium oxid; slacked lime 
is calcium hydroxid. 

German silver contains no silver. 

Freshly prepared ferric hydroxid is an 
antidote for arsenic poisoning. 

The glue on postage stamps is dextrin. 

Quartz is silicon dioxid. 

The ruby, sapphire and other gems are 
composed mainly of aluminum oxid. 

Borax is sodium borat. 

Salt-petre is potassium nitrat. 

Copperas is ferrous (iron) sulphate. 

Blue-stone is copper sulphate. 

Hydrochloric acid and ammonium hy- 
droxid are solutions of a gas in water. 

Oxygen is made by heating potassium 
chlorat with manganese dioxid. 

Carbon dioxid is prepared by treating 
marble chips with strong acid. 

Hydrogen is prepared by treating zinc 
with strong acid. 

Chlorin is easily prepared by heating a 
mixture of hydrochloric acid and manganese 
dioxid. 

Sulfur dioxid is made by burning sulphur 
in air. 

Nitrogen may be prepared by heating 
ammonium nitrit. 

Pure silver may be prepared by treating 
silver nitrat with copper. 

The silver is deposited as a gray powder, 
and may be collected by fusing into a solid. 



THE PROPER USE OF SULPHURIC ACID. 

This article is written for the benefit of 
amateur electrical and wireless experiment- 
ers as well as those interested in chemistry, 
not familiar with the dangers which may 
arise if sulphuric acid is not properly used. 

Sulphuric acid is chiefly used in electri- 
cal experiments in the construction of elec- 
trical batteries. It is commonly and com- 
mercially known as "sulphuric acid," but 
there are other names under which it is 



termed and sold, i. e., "hydrogen sulphate," 
"hydric sulphate," "oil of vitriol," etc. 

It is a thick, heavy, oily, sour and cor- 
rosive liquid, and in its pure state is with- 
out odor or color. It boils at 338 degrees 
and freezes at about zero. 

The fact has been repeatedly illustrated 
in experiments already performed that sul- 
phuric acid has a very strong tendency to 
absorb water and form compounds with it, 
thereby causing great heat to be formed in 
this action, and attention is called to the 
necessity for caution in mixing the liquid. 

ALWAYS POUR sulphuric acid IN 
SMALL QUANTITIES INTO the 

water while stirring the same VIGOR- 
OUSLY. It is also well to work with such 
chemicals as sulphuric acid, nitric acid, hy- 
drochloric acid, etc., where a draught of 
air can be created to prevent the poisonous 
fumes from being inhaled into the lungs. 



USEFUL CHEMICAL HINTS FOR 
AMATEURS. 

In many chemical experiments a ring- 




Several Useful Wrinkles for the Young Chemist 

Are Here Suggested. The Stands Shown Can All 

Be Made of a Piece of Wire, Properly Bent. 

stand is needed, but as these are somewhat 
expensive a substitute will be welcome. The 
stand is made of two rings of heavy iron 
or copper wire, one larger than the other, 
with three supporting legs. The ends of 
these are bent around the rings at equal 
distances. The stand should be covered 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



99 



with a double thickness of screen-wire upon 
which the vessel to be heated is placed. The 
stand should be of the proper height in 
relation to the heater (lamp or Bunsen 
burner). This stand is illustrated in Fig. 
1. A funnel stand is shown in Fig. 2 and 
a test-tube stand at Fig. 3. 

An inexperienced visitor to your labora- 
tory will be mystified and his admiration 
increased when you unconcernedly dip a 
piece of copper into a liquid in a bottle and 
bring it out coated with what seems to be 
silver. The liquid is prepared by dissolv- 
ing a drop of mercury in a little nitric 
acid. 

If some paper that has been soaked in 
starch solution and dried is dropped into a 
mixture of sulfuric acid and potassium per- 
manganate, it will flash several times and 
throw a very light black residue for several 
inches. This experiment looks like a minia- 
ture volcano. 

Invisible ink may be made by diluting 
one part sulfuric acid with twenty parts 
water. This ink is visible only when heat- 
ed very hot. 



SOME USEFUL WRINKLES FOR THE 
EXPERIMENTER. 

Turpentine makes a very good lubricant 
for a drill when boring thin glass. 

A liberal coating of paraffine on the out- 
side of battery jars keeps the acid from 
climbing. 

It is hopeless to try to restore dry cells 
to their former strength, but after they 
have lost most of their voltage they can be 
partially restored by drilling a number of 
holes around the base of the battery and 
soaking in a solution of salt water. 

A very good way to intensify weak radio 
or telephone signals when using only a 
single pole watch case receiver is to procure 
a large magnet from some electrical supply 



store. Bind one of the poles on the back 
of the receiver where the screw that holds 
the bobbin protrudes (some little experi- 
mentation will have to be done to deter- 
mine the right pole), and the signals will 
be found to have been increased to three 
and four times their previous strength. 

Never try to tap your local telephone 
line. The company dislikes it; in fact, so 
violently that they may have you arrested 
on a serious charge. Many an innocent 
experimenter has gotten himself into a lot 
of trouble doing this. 

Never try to make hydrogen gas with- 
out some knowledge of safety appliances 
to be used on the apparatus. It is about 
as quick a way to put your eyes out as 
there is. 

If you are using storage batteries in your 
wireless set, and they fail to give proper 
voltage, or get too hot, don't try to fix 
them yourself, as they can be very easily 
ruined. A garage man can't fix in a day 
what you can "unfix" in 10 minutes. 

Don't light matches around storage bat- 
teries to see if they are working properly. 
When operating they liberate a gas which 
is at times very explosive. Use a pocket 
flashlight. 

If you are disturbed by alternating cur- 
rents interfering with your wireless re- 
ceiving set turn your aerial in another di- 
rection. It may help. 

If you can get your wireless instruments 
silver plated, do so by all means, as silver 
is a much better conductor than nickel, and 
high frequency currents such as are used 
in wireless work travel almost entirely on 
the surface of switches. 

If you are intending to buy any instru- 
ment and don't know the size, range, 
adaptability to your requirements, etc., don't 
be afraid to ask the manufacturer about the 
instrument. Even it he does have a cata- 
logue, he will be glad to give you any addi- 
tional information you desire. 



100 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



When experimenting with 110-volt cur- 
rent always have a pair of 10 amp. fuses 
in circuit. It will stop a lot of pyrotech- 
nics if something goes wrong. 

Don't paint the stand that you intend to 
mount your instruments on. Paraffine is 
better; it doesn't allow so much current to 
leak through. 



CHEMICAL LANDSCAPES. 

These are drawn partly in India ink and 
partly in sympathetic inks, which are only 
visible when gently heated. The picture 
represents ordinarily a winter scene, but 
when heated the sky becomes blue, the leaves 
green and flowers and fruit are seen. The 
materials are as follows: Green, chlorid of 
nickel; blue, pure chlorid of acetate of co- 
balt ; brown, bromid of copper. If the pic- 
ture is too highly heated it will not again 
fade. 



MAKING A CRYSTAL BASKET. 

Water will, especially when boiling, dis- 
solve large quantities of various substances, 
which, when the water has cooled, are left 
behind in the form of most beautiful crys- 
tals, the shapes of which may vary with the 
substance employed. One may take advan- 
tage of this fact to make very handsome 
ornaments. It is also known that boiling 
water will take up a much larger quantity 
of alum than cold water. If we dissolve 
as much alum as possible in the former, as 
the liquid cools, crystals of alum will be 
deposited on any object placed in the fluid. 
A piece of coke or cinder allowed to stand 
in a boiling solution of alum, will become 
coated with numerous glistening crystals 
as the liquid cools. It will have the ap- 
pearance of a naturally formed mineralogi- 
cal specimen. 

Ornamental baskets, etc., may be formed 
in this way by covering the wire or willow 
baskets. The baskets covered with wire 



and then cotton are the most successful as 
the surface to be coated with crystals must 
be somewhat rough. Take twice as much 
water as will be sufficient to cover the 
basket, boil it in a saucepan and add as 
much alum as will dissolve in the water. 
A quart of water will require about 18 
ounces of alum. Strain this through mus- 
lin or blotting paper into a large jar and 
hang the basket in the boiling liquid. Stand 
the jar on one side to cool and keep free 
from dust. In a few hours the basket will 
be completely covered with white crystals 
of alum. Should it be desired to color the 
crystals, add the requisite dye-stuff to the 
alum solution before straining it. A few 
drops of cheap dyes will serve the purpose 
well. 



HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL GARDEN. 

Place a quantity of sand in a wide 
mouthed bottle or fish aquarium to a depth 
of about three inches. Slightly imbed a 
few pieces of copper sulfate, aluminum sul- 
fate, iron sulfate, chrome alum, lead ace- 
tate, calcium chlorid, magnesium and man- 
ganese sulfates, in the layer of sand (all 
these chemicals can be purchased at any 
drug store). Make a solution of water 
glass (sodium silicate) one part water glass 
and three parts water, pour this solution 
carefully over the sand and chemicals. In 
about a week a dense growth of the sili- 
cates of the various bases will be seen, in 
various colors and fantastic shapes. Now 
displace the solution of the water glass with 
clear water, by conveying a small stream 
of water through a small rubber tube into 
the vessel, which will gradually displace 
the solution of water glass. Care must be 
taken not to disarrange or break down the 
growth with the stream of water. Other 
sulfates such as chromium, nickel, cobalt, 
etc., may also be used. When successful 
this produces a very beautiful scene. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



101 



METALLIC TREES. 
To Make a Silver Tree. 

Dissolve two ten cent pieces in 2 fluid 
drams (about a dessertspoonful or two tea- 
spoonfuls) of concentrated nitric acid, 
evaporating nearly to dryness to drive off 
excess of acid (evaporate by holding solu- 
tion over a flame). Cool, and dissolve the 
resulting crystalline salts in sufficient dis- 
tilled water to make a saturated solution. 
This solution will be slightly blue on ac- 
count of the copper which is alloyed with 
coin silver. Place the solution in a glass 
vessel having a curved bottom. Add a drop 
of mercury the size of a large pea and set 
aside for a day. A large growth of mercury 
and silver amalgam will be produced which 
may be kept indefinitely. 

j To Make a Lead Tree. 

Place in a tall jar (a quart preserving 
bottle will answer the purpose) a solution 
made by dissolving 4 ounces of lead acetate 
in one quart of water. Place the bottle 
where it will not be subject to vibration 
and suspend in it a strip or cylinder of zinc ; 
battery zinc will answer the purpose very 
well. An abundant growth of crystalline 
spangles will collect on the zinc within ten 
days. 

To Grow a Tin Tree. 

Dilute commercial tin chlorid solution 
with forty times its bulk of water and pro- 
ceed the same as when making the lead tree. 



CHEMICAL GROWTHS RESEMBLE 
FOLIAGE. 

The following item may prove of inter- 
est to your chemical readers and those who 
dabble in chemistry just for the novelty of 
such experiments as this: 

A 10% solution of sodium silicate (water 
glass) is put into a glass or beaker, and 
crystals of any or all of the following salts 
are dropped in ; copper sulfate, ferrous sul- 
fate, nickel sulfate, cobalt nitrat. 



Many other salts will give similar results 
but the various sulfates appear to be the 
best. 

Shortly after the crystals are placed in 
the solution, they will begin to grow in fan- 
tastic shapes, each of the salts giving a dif- 
ferent growth of different color. These 
growths look so much like undersea foliage 
that they have often been called "Submarine 
Gardens." 

The rate of growth depends on the 
strength of the silicate solution as the crys- 
tals are due to a formation of the silicate 
of the salt used. A solution of the strength 
mentioned above allows the crystals to grow 
in a more even manner at a rate which can 
be watched. The growths, however, will 
not keep unless the solution is very weak, 
and then they grow too slowly. 



SOME INTERESTING CHEMICAL 
EXPERIMENTS. 

Procure at a drug store, or elsewhere, 
some phenolphthalein. Dissolve as much 
of this as possible in one fluid oz. of grain 
alcohol (C 2 H 5 OH). Add water to this 
until a permanent milkiness is observed in 
the solution. Now add more alcohol until 
the cloudiness disappears. The solution is 
now ready for use, provided that it does 
not cloud when a small amount of water is 
added to it. 

This solution of phenolphthalein, when 
used in the wine trick, imparts an odor 
of alcohol to the wine-colored solu- 
tion. Instead of using ammonia water 
(NH 4 OH) in the third glass, use a solu- 
tion of caustic soda (Na OH), since the 
caustic soda has no betraying odor as docs 
the ammonia. For the same reason, use 
diluted sulphuric acid (H 2 S0 4 ) instead of 
the acetic acid. 

The following is an extremely interesting 
color experiment: Obtain some iodic add 
solution (III0 3 ) and either make or buy 



102 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



some sulphurous acid solution (a solution 
of sulphur dioxide in water H 2 S0 3 ). Take 
definite proportions of the two solutions 
and mix them together. Note carefully 
the time of mixing. In about twenty or 
thirty seconds the solution will turn black 
and in about three seconds more it will 
turn colorless again. By varying the pro- 
portions of the ingredients the time inter- 
vals of the color changes will also be varied. 
For the same proportions of the substances 
the time will be the same. In this manner 
one can predict at just what second the 
changes will appear. It might be well to 
add that a fair amount of light (natural 
or artificial) is necessary for the success of 
this experiment. 

Another so-called freezing trick depends 
upon the conditions existing in supersat- 
urated solutions. If such substances as 
sodium thiosulphate (hypo) are dissolved 
in water at about 100° F. until absolutely 
no more of the crystals will dissolve, and 
the solution is allowed to cool, it will be 
supersaturated. This solution will become 
a solid mass if the smallest crystal of the 
hypo is allowed to drop into it. With a 
little dexterity the operator can pass his 
hand over the vessel containing the solu- 
tion and secretly drop into it a small crystal 
of the salt. A weird effect is produced 
when the solution immediately becomes 
solid. The explanation of this phenomenon 
is that the cold solution contains more of 
the salt that it could normally hold at that 
temperature, and when even the tiniest 
crystal of the salt is dropped into the solu- 
tion, the whole becomes a solid mass. The 
solution must be freed while hot from the 
surplus hypo and allowed to cool slowly. 



TESTED CHEMICAL LABORATORY 
STUNTS. 

Fire-Proofing Cloth. — First get two glass 
tumblers. Add two teaspoonfuls of am- 
monium chloride to the water in the glass 
and stir until dissolved. 



In the other glass put a piece of cotton 
cloth two or three inches square and then 
pour the dissolved ammonium chloride into 
the glass containing the cloth and see that 
it is well soaked with the solution. Hang 
the cloth up and let it dry. Then touch it 
with a lighted match. It will burn in the 
flame, but will go out as soon as the flame 
is removed. 

To Make Gun Powder. — Mix one tea- 
spoonful of potassium nitrate, one-half tea- 
spoonful of sulphur and one-half teaspoon- 
ful of powdered charcoal on a sheet of 
paper. This must be thoroughly mixed to 
make a good powder. 

Sympathetic Ink. — With a clean steel pen 
write on white paper with a cobalt chloride 
solution and let dry. When the paper is 
held near the fire the writing will gradually 
appear, and disappear again when it cools, 
because the chloride absorbs moisture from 
the air. Even though the paper is scorched 
the writing will still be visible. 

Green Alcohol Light. — Dissolve one-half 
teaspoonful boric acid in two and one-half 
teaspoonfuls of alcohol and light it. The 
flame will be bright green. 

To Remove Marks Due to Match 
Scratches. — Rub the scratched surface with 
lemon and then wash with a clean rag 
dipped in water. 



TESTED CHEMICAL LABORATORY 
STUNTS. 

Spoons That Will Melt in Hot Water. 
— Fuse together in a crucible 8 parts of bis- 
muth, 5 of lead, and 3 of tin. These metals 
will combine and form an alloy, of which 
spoons can be easily made which possess the 
remarkable property of melting in hot 
water, coffee or tea. 

A Self-Dancing Egg. — Take a thin glass 
tube about 3 inches long and fill it with 
mercury then seal both ends with good 
hard wax. Next have an egg boiled and 
then break a small piece of the shell from 
the smaller end and thrust the tube with the 
mercury in, lay it on a table and it will not 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical), 



103 



cease tumbling until the egg is cool. The 
same can be done by taking a small bladder 
putting a little mercury inside and blowing 
it up, then warm the bladder, it will skip 
about as long as the heat remains. 

To Give a Piece of Charcoal a Coat of 
Silver.— -Lay a crystal of silver nitrat upon 
a piece of burning charcoal; the metallic 
salt will catch fire and will emit sparks of 
various colors. The silver is reduced, and, 
in the end, produces upon the charcoal a 
very brilliant and beautiful appearance. 
An Water But Not Wet.— Vowder the 
^surface of a large or small vessel of water 
with some lycopodium, which may be ob- 
tained at any drug store; you may then 
challenge any one to drop a coin into the 
water, and that you will get it without 
wetting your hand. The lycopodium ad- 
heres to the hand and prevents its contact 
with the water. 

Artificial Petrifactions (turning into 
stone). — In a retort place a small quantity 
of pounded fluor-spar and sand, and pour 
upon it some sulfuric acid; fluosilicic acid 
gas will be disengaged, holding silex in so- 
lution. The subjects you wish to petrify 
must be moistened with water and placed 
in a vessel connected with the neck of the 
retort, the silex will be precipitated upon 
them like a frost and will have a beautiful 
appearance. It will wear for years. Note 
i — Do not inhale this gas. 

An Experiment With Sugar. — Take 
about 5 or 6 pieces of lump sugar and place 
them in a cup ; next pour about 3 tea spoons 
full of boiling water upon them, and then 
add some sulfuric acid. It is truly a won- 
derful spectacle, and more instructive than 
reading, to see the sugar turn black, then 
boil, and now, rising out of the cup in a 
black color. It is now charcoal. 

To Melt Steel. — Heat a piece of steel 
to redness in a fire, then hold it with a pair 
of pincers. In the other hand take a stick 



of brimstone or roll sulfur and touch the 
piece of steel with it. Immediately after 
their contact the steel will melt and drop 
like melted butter. 

Explosion Without Heat. — Take a crys- 
tal or two of nitrat of copper and bruise 
them; then moisten them with water and 
roll them up in a piece of tin-foil, and in a 
minute the foil will begin to smoke and 
soon after will take fire and explode. Un- 
less the crystals of copper are moistened, no 
heat will be produced. 

To Melt Lead in Paper. — Wrap up a 
very smooth piece of lead in a piece of 
paper, then hold it over the flame of a 
taper ; the lead will be melted without burn- 
ing the paper providing there are no 
wrinkles in the paper and that it is in con- 
tact with the lead everywhere. 

The Fiery Fountain. — If twenty grains 
of phosphorus, cut very small, and mixed 
with forty grains of powder of zinc, be put 
into four drachms of water, and two 
drachms of concentrated sulfuric acid be 
added thereto, bubbles of inflamed phos- 
phorated hydrogen gas will quickly cover 
the whole surface of the fluid in succession, 
forming a real fountain of fire. 

Ghastly Pleasure Party. — Dissolve com- 
mon salt in an infusion of saffron and 
spirits of wine. Dip some tow in this solu- 
tion and set fire to it, after extinguishing 
all other lights in the room. The ghastly 
effect produced on the faces of all present 
is very startling. 



EXPERIMENTS OFF THE BEATEN TRACK. 

The following experiments are not only 
interesting, but have the additional charm 
of novelty, being of a kind that one does not 
usually come across in the text-books. 

For the first there will be required a bob- 
bin about four inches in length with a 
central hole an inch or more in diameter 
and having a few hundred turns of double 
cotton covered wire wound on it. 



104 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



This should be fastened end-up on a sheet 
of mirror glass and the ends of the wire 
connected with a source of rapidly alternat- 
ing current. 

Into the hollow core drop a few flakes 
of black magnetic oxide of iron, prepared 
as described below. At first no effect will 
be observed ; but let a soft iron bar, or, 
what is better, a bundle of soft iron wire, 
be inserted for a moment and withdraw; 
the particles of oxide will at once become 
endowed with extraordinary activity. The 
flakes that were formerly at rest will be 
seen to be dancing vigorously under the 
influence of the alternating current, the 
movement being both side to side and up 
and down. The probable explanation is 
that the particles of oxide become perma- 
nently magnetized during the brief time 
that the iron core is within the bobbin. 
The polarity thus induced causes the par- 
ticles — which, it will be remembered, are in 
the form of flakes — to present opposite ends 
to the middle of the bobbin alternately un- 
der the influence of the alternating current. 
The lateral movement is attributed to the 
mutual attraction and repulsion between 
neighboring particles. 

To make the oxide in the form required 
for the experiment, cut a piece of tinned 
iron from a can and leave it in an open 
fire until the surface is covered with black 
oxide. If carefully removed and allowed to 
cool, a little gentle bending between the 
fingers will detach the oxide in the form 
of irregular flakes. 

The next experiment is even less exacting 
in the matter of apparatus, only a little 
finely powdered graphite or bronze powder 
being required. The current, which may 
be drawn from the house supply, should be 
about 200 volts D.C. Two wires should 
be carried from the lighting circuit, pro- 
vided with insulating handles for conveni- 
ence, and having a high-resistance voltmeter 
in series. 



Place a small heap of perfectly dry 
printers' bronze powder on a sheet of 
paper, and insert the ends of the wires in 
opposite sides of the heap. The voltmeter 
will not at first register the passage of a 
current; but upon gradually bringing the 
wires closer together the needle is ultimate- 
ly deflected. After this they may again 
be separated without stopping the flow of 
current. Moreover, if the wires are brought 
fairly close together they may be slowly 
separated, not only from each other, but 
from the powder, without interrupting the 
flow of current. Upon inspection it will 
be found that the wires are connected either 
with each other, or with the powder, by 
an exceedingly fine thread of bronze. With 
care it is possible to obtain a separation of 
an inch or so. No doubt the chain is pro- 
duced by a welding together of the minute 
particles composing it under the influence 
of heat, generated by the current. If 
graphite powder is used, several threads 
can be drawn simultaneously. 

The third experiment to be described is 
of a very simple character, and only re- 
quires a carbon filament lamp and a perfect- 
ly dry, warm cloth. Immediately after 
switching off the current, that is while the 
lamp is still hot, it should be removed and 
rubbed briskly with the cloth. The outer 
surface becomes charged by friction and 
the inner surface by induction, sometimes 
sufficiently to attract the filament to the 
side and hold it there. At the same time a 
luminous glow is observed in a dark room. 



SOME INTERESTING CHEMICAL 
EXPERIMENTS. 

When a very little dry powdered potas- 
sium permanganat is moistened with sul- 
furic acid, brownish-green oily drops of 
permanganic anhydrid (Mn 2 7 ) are 
formed. This compound is volatile, giving 
a violet vapor and is apt to decompose ex- 
plosively into oxygen and manganese dioxid. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



105 



Its oxidizing power is such that combus- 
tibles like paper, ether and illuminating gas 
are set on fire by contact with it. 

White phosphorus, when heated with sul- 
fur unites with explosive violence. By 
using red phosphorus the action can be 
controlled. The product is phosphorous 
sulfid and the kind depends upon the pro- 
portions used. 

If a small piece of sodium is placed on a 
piece of filter paper and placed on water, 
the water is decomposed and the heat lib- 
erated is sufficient to set fire to the sodium, 
which burns with a characteristic yellow 
flame. 

Powdered magnesium and potassium 
chlorat in the proportions of 10:17 is used 
in making flashlights for use in photography. 

Cordite, a variety of smokeless powder, 
is made by dissolving guncotton (65 parts) 
nitro-glycerin (30 parts) and vaseline (5 
parts) in acetone. The resulting paste is 
rolled out and cut into small pieces. When 
the acetone evaporates the horny cordite 
remains. 

Javelle water (solution of sodium hypo- 
chlorit) is an ingredient of ink eradicators. 
The solution is first applied to the ink and 
a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid is 
rubbed over it. The chlorin which is lib- 
erated is responsible for the bleaching ef- 
fect. 



CHEMICAL EXPERIMENTS. 

No. 1: Put on a clean white plate or 
saucer, a mixture of pulverized sugar and 
potassium, chlorat. Upon adding a few 
drops of sulfuric acid a vivid combustion 
will ensue. By adding with the sugar a 
few iron and steel filings, and performing 
the experiment in a dark room, or out of 
doors at night, fiery rosettes will flash 
through a rose colored flame, and produce 
a fine effect. 



No. 2: Mix a teaspoonful of nitric acid 
with a teaspoonful of sulfuric acid ; place a 
little turpentine in a teacup out of doors, 
and pour the mixture upon it at arm's 
length. The turpentine will burn with al- 
most explosive violence. 

No. 3: Make a saturated solution of 
sodium sulfate (Glauber's Salt), in warm 
water; pour the mixture in a bottle, and let 
it stand. The salt will remain for months 
without crystallizing; but if taken up, and 
shaken a few times, the whole mass will in- 
stantly form into crystals, so filling the 
bottle that not a drop of water will escape. 
Should there be any hesitation at the mo- 
ment of shaking, drop a small crystal of 
the salt into the bottle, and the effect will 
be instantly seen, by the darting of new 
crystals in every direction. 

No. 4: Heat a piece of tin until the 
coating begins to melt; then cool quickly 
in water and clean in aqua regia. The 
surface will be found covered with beauti- 
ful crystals of the metal. 

No. 5: Pour dilute nitric acid upon bits 
of tin. Dense red fumes will pass off. 

No. 6: Throw crystals of any nitrat on 
red hot coals; they will deflagrate with 
dense red smoke. 



CHEMICAL EXPERIMENTS. 

By experimenting a little you will find 
that an infusion of logwood chips and water 
will change color when other chemicals are 
added. 

Take three glasses Nos. 1, 2 and 3 and 
prepare them as follows: Rinse No. 1 with 
strong vinegar; Dust No. 2 with powdered 
alum; Rinse No. 3 with a solution of cop- 
per sulfate. The next step is to pour the 
logwood into each. If the glasses have 
been prepared correctly the logwood in No. 

1 will fade to a pale yellow. That in No. 

2 will become almost black and that in No. 

3 will change to a pale purple. 



106 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



This is the principal set of changes but 
following is a list of changes using not only 
logwood but also other chemicals. Some of 
them can be used as stated above but in the 
case of ammonia for instance, the odor 
would give it away. 

Color changes that are due to chemical 
action : 

1. — Logwood, ammonia and copper sul- 
fate gives a brown. 

2. — Logwood, vinegar and ammonia 
gives purple. 

3. — Logwood, alum and ammonia cause 
a red precipitate. 

4. — Logwood, vinegar and copper sulfate 
gives a brown. 

5. — Logwod, ammonia and common salt 
gives a light brown. 

6. — Logwood, copper sulfate, common 
salt, and alum mixed give a pink. 

7. — Phenolphthalein and ammonia gives 
a bright red (test for free ammonia). 

8. — Copper sulfate and ammonia gives a 
bright blue (test for copper sulfate). 

9. — Logwood and hydrogen peroxid gives 
a pale yellow. 

10. — Logwood, copper sulfate and caustic 
soda gives a pale blue precipitate. 



'TOURING RED, WHITE AND BLUE FROM 
THE SAME PITCHER." 

Fill 3 glasses 2/3 full of water. In the 
first dissolve 1 measure of Ammonium Sul- 
focyanat. In the second 1 measure of 
Strontium Xitrat and in the third y 2 meas- 
ure of Sodium Ferrocyanid. 

In the pitcher dissolve 3 measures of Fer- 
ric Ammonium Sulfat in 1/3 glassful of 
water. Pour a little of this into each glass. 
The first will turn red, the second white 
and the third blue. 



A FORTUNE-TELLING EXPERIMENT. 

Procure a cylindrical- carton about 2y 2 
inches in diameter and at least a foot in 
length. Place in the bottom of this carton 
a small bottle, preferably an ink bottle, 
containing some pieces of iron sulfide 
(Fe,S 3 ) covered with either hydrochloric 
or sulfuric acid. The cork of this bottle 
should have a hole about l /% inch in diam- 
eter drilled through it to allow the escape 
of the generated hydrogen sulfide gas. About 
an inch or so above this bottle (or gen- 
erator) a round piece of perforated card- 
board is held in place by resting on four 
common pins, the latter being placed at 
the ends of two diameters which are per- 
pendicular to each other. These pins are 
thrust through the wall of the carton so 
that they protrude on the inside; thereby 
forming a basis of support for the perfor- 
ated cardboard. The holes in the latter 
should be about % inch in diameter. Take 
a pad of ordinary unruled paper and write 
various fortunes on each sheet with a solu- 
tion of lead acetate, commonly known as 
sugar of lead. The solution being colorless, 
the pad paper will appear to have no writ- 
ing on it. 

In telling the fortunes of your friends, 
have one of them sign his or her name on 
the top of a sheet of this pad. Tear this 
sheet off. Have another friend place his 
or her name on another sheet of the pad. 
After having three or four signed sheets, 
roll them up, place them in the carton, and 
quickly cover. Keep your friends interested 
by quoting some magic patter, and after 
placing the carton to the four winds and 
going through some magic motions, remove 
the cover and take out the roll of paper. 
Immediately cover the carton. Then distrib- 
ute the sheets of paper to those whom the 
signatures designate. Behold ! Your 
friends will receive the same signed sheets 
of paper covered with black writing which 
upon reading will tell their fortunes. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 107 

The chemistry involved in this experi- The writer has tried all of these with 

ment is the formation of the black precipi- varying success. And then one day we 

tate of lead sulfide by the generated hydro- talked to one of these wonderful presti- 

gen sulfide (H 2 S) coming in contact with digitators (oh, yes; it's in the dictionary) 

the lead acetate Pb (C 2 H 3 2 ) 2 on the and got the only and original formula for 

paper. the real wine and water trick. You have 

m /nu A , . only to try it to know it's the REAL one. 

rD(L, 2 .H.3U 2 ; 2 -f- 

H 2 S = PbS + 2HC 2 H 3 2 First secure four glasses. Put a very 

small drop of Fe Cl 3 (iron chlorid) in each 

of two of them, and fill another half full 

of H 2 C 2 4 (oxalic acid). The other one 

THE "REAL" WINE AND WATER TRICK, remains empty. The glasses with the chemi- 
Many of you have heard of or seen the cals should be farthest from the audience. 

so-called "wine and water trick" wherein Fill a flask with a solution of OHC 6 H 4 - 

C0 2 H (salicylic acid). The table shows 
how to perform the separate operations of 
the trick in their proper order. That is, 
first pour some liquid from the flask into 
glass No. 3. Result — colorless. Then into 
No. 1. Result — red due to the formation 
of iron salicylate. Then into No. 2, color- 
less. Then into No. 4, red. 

Two and four combined give colorless. 
One and three give red. All together give 
colorless. See table herewith: 

3 + OHC 6 H 4 C0 2 H Colorless 

1 + OHC 6 H 4 C0 2 H Red 

Arrangement of Four Glasses as Used in Pro- 2 -f- OHC 6 H 4 C0 2 H Colorless 

ducingr "Wine and Water Trick" as Described. a , QTJQ JJ PQ TJ n-j 

a liquid, presumably water, is poured from J 

a bottle into different glasses, which are ~j~ * " \* ' '" ' 

apparently empty, and produces wine (don't 1 +^ + ^ + 4 Colorless 

drink it, for the love of Mike!) in some More glasses and chemicals may be used 

glasses and water in others. Various chemi- if desired, but must be prepared as above, 

cals are used to produce this effect. One To perform the trick pour from pitcher into 

way is to have a crystal of potassium per- g i ass No. 1 and we have wine, then into 

manganate, K Mn 4 , in one glass, a solu- g i ass No. 2 we have water, and glass No. 3 

tion of oxalic acid in another, and two we have win ^ then gkss No . 4 we have 

glasses empty. Warm water when poured wafer; pQm back glasse§ ^ 2 ^ 3 [ntQ 

from a bottle into three of them will pro- pitcher and then fiU ^ thm ^ ^ 

duce no result, but in the KMnO, glass f , . , n , 

, , , , TT1 ., , * , wine trom the pitcher, now pour all tour 

a red color results. When all three glasses . . . . . n .. . . . 

• j 4. ^ a. r -j j glasses back and then nil them with water 

are mixed together the oxalic acid de- 7 , . , 

colorized the KMn0 4 . Still another from the pitchen 

method utilizes potassium-sulpho-cyanide A little practise before you attempt this 

and an iron salt, and a third method, phen- with your friends will enable you to handle 

olphthalein. glasses and pitcher skilfully. 




208 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



Try to cover the solution in glass No. 4 
with your hand when pouring into it for the 
first time. 

CHEMICAL COLOR CHANGES. 

The following chemicals should be dis- 
solved separately in individual bottles, 
labeled properly and kept tightly corked : 

No. 1. — Permanganate of potash, y 2 
dram; water, 4 ounces. 

No. 2. — Caustic soda or potash, y 2 dram ; 
water, 4 ounces. 

No. 3. — Hypsosulphite of soda (hypo), 2 
drams; water, 4 ounces. 

No. 4 — Bichloride of mercury (poison), 
y 2 dram; water, 4 ounces. 

(Be sure and label bottle poison.) 

No. 5. — Sulphat of iron, y 2 ounce; water, 
4 ounces. 

No. 6. — Red prussiate potash, y 2 dram; 
water, 2 ounces. 

No. 7. — Oil of tartar, this is made as fol- 
lows : Carbonate of soda or common wash- 
ing soda, y 2 ounce; water, 4 ounces. 

No. 8. — Acetic acid (clear acid). 

The above chemicals are all used in 
photography and may be purchased of any 
photo dealer. 

In a tumbler containing a small quantity 
of water place enough No. 1 solution to 
give a nice wine color, then add about a 
half teaspoonful of No. 2 solution, this 
will slightly redden the No. 1 solution; 
now place a few drops of No. 3 solution, 
this will change to green ; add a small quan- 
tity of No. 8, you will observe this to 
turn brown and then clear itself. Rinse 
tumbler out thoroughly. 

Put about ten drops of No. 4 in half 
tumbler water, add a small quantity of No. 
7, this changes to a deep orange color; now 
add a small quantity of No. 8, immediately 
clears itself. Remember that No. 4 is 
poison and should be handled with extreme 
care. Rinse glass thoroughly. 



A small quantity of No. 5 in a half 
tumbler of water will be a clear solution 
and a small quantity of No. 6 in half 
tumbler of water will be clear; add both 
together and you will have a deep navy 
blue. 

By further experimenting (with albove 
chemicals you will be able to perform many 
other changes. 



CHEMICAL TRICKS. 
The Popular Wine and Water Trick. 

Obtain a small quantity of phenolphtha- 
lein from your chemist or druggist in pow- 
der form. Dissolve it in a small bottle 
and keep well corked. When ready for 
the trick (before the performance) place 
some of this solution in a small crystal or 
porcelain pitcher and partly fill with clear 
water, then prepare four wine glasses or 
small tumblers as follows : No. 1 glass with 
about a teaspoonful of ammonia. No. 2 
glass clear. No. 3 glass with a teaspoonful 
of ammonia, and No. 4 glass with two tea- 
spoonfuls of acetic acid. 

S Mysterious Smoke Trick. 
Place a small quantity of ammonia in a 
tumbler and upon a small piece of clear 
glass place a few drops of muriatic acid. 
Tell one of your friends that you can find 
out whether he is an excessive smoker or 
not, and have him place his thumb on the 
under side of the sheet glass and carefully 
turn it over on top of the tumbler with 
his thumb still in position; the result will 
be an excessive amount of smoke issuing 
apparently from his thumb. 

Mysterious Fire. 

A small quantity of chlorate of potash 
mixed with the same amount of sugar placed 
on a piece of tin or stone and then touched 
with a stick dipped in sulphuric acid will 
instantly burst into a bright white flame. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



109 



If a small quantity of strontium nitrate is 
mixed with this the flame will be red in- 
stead of white, or if the same amount oi 
barium nitrate is mixed instead of stron- 
tium the flame will be green. 



POLE INDICATING SOLUTION FOR 
BATTERIES. 

Formula. — Water, 1 teaspoonful; Phen- 
olphthalein, 3 drops; Potassium Nitrate, 1 
teaspoonful. 

Directions for Use. — Dip wires into solu- 
tion, and the one which is negative will 
color the solution about it red. 



small pea. Put in the bottle and cork. 
This is a fine bait for bass and can be used 



{Wire Protection 



Line-: 







'-■BotNe 



Attracting Fish by Means of a Luminous Bait 
and Hook. 



to an advantage at night. It can be used 
in winter fishing when the lines are placed 
through holes in the ice. 



A NOVEL CHEMICAL INDICATOR. 

In chemistry an indicator is something 
which tells whether a substance is acid or 
basic. 

The following is a rather peculiar one: 

Place some sulfate of quinin in a beaker 
and add some water. The sulfate of 
quinin will not dissolve. Now add dilute 
sulfuric acid drop by drop until the sulfate 
of quinin is all dissolved. 

To test for a basic reaction add some of 
the above solution to the solution to be 
tested. If the solution is basic the sulfate 
of quinin will reappear as a flaky precipi- 
tate. To test for an acid make some of the 
test solution slightly basic and add solution 
to be tested. If the solution clears the sub- 
stance is acid. 



LUMINOUS FISH BAIT. 

All fishermen know that a light will at- 
tract fish. The present device comprises a 
small bottle or vial wound with wire spaced 
one-eighth of an inch apart. Two hooks 
are swiveled to the end of the bottle with 
fish line, tying it to the main line above the 
bottle. A luminous mixture is then made. 
Heat some olive oil on the stove for about 
fifteen minutes, just sizzling and not boil- 
ing; then mix in phosphorus the size of a 



CANNED HEAT. 

Canned heat, a new discovery, is nothing 
else but solidified alcohol. The alcohol is 
suspended in a soap mixture so that it may 
be used for heating purposes and still not 
be open to the dangers from alcohol when 
burned alone. 

Solidified alcohol may be made according 
to the following formula: Stearic acid, 8J^ 
grammes; caustic soda, 1-35/100 grammes; 
alcohol (grain or denatured), sufficient 
quantity to make 100 grammes. 

Dissolve the stearic acid in about 50 
grammes of alcohol by the aid of heat. 
Dissolve the caustic soda in about 40 
grammes of alcohol. Mix and warm until 
the two solutions combine. Pour into suit- 
able moulds. The moulds ordinarily used 
are friction-top tin cans capable of holding 
three or four fluid ounces. To ignite, the 
cover is removed and a lighted match held 
over the solid mixture. To extinguish, the 
cover is slipped on the can. Care should be 
taken not to tip over the lighted can, as 
when the mixture is burning it becomes a 
semi-liquid and, therefore, a source of 
danger if spilled. When the fire is ex- 
tinguished and the mass allowed to cool the 
contents of the can again solidifies. The 
soap itself does not burn but is left in the 
can after the spirit has been consumed. 



110 A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 

TO SOLIDIFY ALCOHOL. 2. Gunpowder may be made by carefully 

Heat 500 parts of denatured alcohol over mixing together 70 to 80 per cent of nitrate 

a water bath to about 140 deg. F. and add of potash, 10 or 12 per cent of sulphur, and 

1 part of gumlac and 15 parts of dry Vene- 10 to 12 per cent of soft wood charcoal, 

tian soap (powdered). , A 

3. An interesting little experiment may 
be performed by throwing a piece of potas- 
sium as large as a pea upon some cold water 

TREE OF CRYSTALS * n t ^ le b° ttom °* a l ar ge bottle. Hydrogen 

is given off on account of the decomposition 

Put a small quantity of bruised gum ben- f tne water caused bv the potassium, 

zoin on a piece ot thin metal or a saucer Enough heat wJU be g[ven off tQ -.^ th(j 

invert it over a tumbler glass, in which h d whfch will burn wkh a ^ urplish 

p ace a sprig of wood, or any small-leaved red color< Immediately after throwi the 

plant, and applv the flame of a candle , ' , , , 

underneath, so as to melt the gum; dense P ^™ « the water a pasteboard card 

fumes will soon begin to arise, and deposit or glass plate should be placed over the 

themselves in most beautiful crystals of mouth ot the bottle - 

silky texture, on the sprig of ^ wood, in 4. R oc helle salts may be obtained bv the 

delicate soft flakes, resembling foliage. following experiment: Dissolve 10 grams 

of cream of tartar in about 175 cubic centi- 

meters of hot water. Add to this a strong 

solution of sodium carbonate as long as 

HOW TO MAKE ICE. the addition produce5 effervescence. Evap- 

1. Ice can always be purchased cheaper orate the solution to the bulk of 20 cubic 

than it can be produced in a small way. centimeters and then allow it to cool. Crys- 

However, it is sometimes desirable to have tals of Rochelle salts will be obtained. 

ice or to secure extreme cold when it can- For {he benefo rf those ^ do nQt un _ 

not be purchased, on bundav or in trie , , , . . ,. , , 

. . *; , ', ■ i'i • derstand the metric system, in which the 

night. Bv use ot the recipe below ice mav , . - , 

, fe . ' , , nn ' measurements in the last experiment are 

be made at home in about 20 minutes. . - . , • 1 t r 1 

rj, , , t j n -,. given, the equivalents in the English system 

Take phospate ot soda 9 parts to -m 1 1 - 1 ?->•"-. -7 - 

KT . _ r • a L.w* are: 10 grams equal 134.32 grains, 1/3 

JNitrate ot ammonia o parts ^ ^ Ten a •* 1 oA 

Diluted nitric acid 4 parts C - C - e S u fl al . ?' 9 fluld ounces - and 20 c - c - 

equals / fluid ounces. 

Place the water to be frozen in a small 

dish (about 3 inches diameter) and put the = 

dish in a large one, to hold the freezing 

mixture. It will require from 2 to 4 times FREEZING MIXTURES. 

as much of the chemical as of the ice de- u-, • ■ ■ j j 

. , TT -r to j e • j u ^ en ice or snow are not to be had and 

sired. Hence, it lb pounds ot ice is wanted * .i £ • , L 

M1 . , 10 , , -« , lor those ot us who do not have an up-to- 

lt will require about lb parts of soda, 12 ot , , , - . ., , -j_ 

. , , . . . , rrn date laboraton- that is provided with agen- 

ammonia and b of nitric acid. 1 he outer , ,. ' T , ,„ 

, i iji i ji • •• cies or cooime power, 1 am sure the rollow- 

vessel should be insulated bv wrapping it in .,i 

, , , ' T u j m g mixtures will prove most convenient, 
a wet blanket or paper. 1 he water and 

utensils should be made as cold as possible 1. Xitrat of ammonia, carbonat of soda 

by first immersing them in the coldest water and water, equal parts by weight; the ther- 

available. mometer sinks 57°. 

This is really a yen' cheap method of 2. Phosphate of soda, 9 parts, nitrat of 

making ice, as the chemical may be used ammonia, 6 parts; dilute nitric acid (acid 

time and again by merely evaporating the 1 part, water 2 parts), 4 parts. Reduces/ 

water. the temperature from 50° to 21°. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



Ill 



3. Sal-ammoniac, 5 parts ; nitrat of pot- 
ash, 5 parts; sulphate of soda, 8 parts; 
water, 16 parts. Reduces the temperature 
46° or from 70° to 24°. This latter is very 
cheap and easily procured. 

If you have ice and wish to reduce the 
temperature still further, use the following : 

1. Finely pounded ice, 2 parts; salt, 1 
part. This is a very common recipe. 

2. Finely pounded ice, 2 parts; crystal- 
lized chlorid of calcium, 3 parts. 

3. Finely pounded ice, 7 parts; dilute 
nitric acid, 4 parts. This reduces the tem- 
perature from 32° to 30°. The tempera- 
tures given are Fahrenheit. The materials 
should be kept as cool as possible. 



• 



"CHEMICAL SNOW." 



Two parts Strontium Nitrat are first dis- 
solved in 20 parts of water. Dissolve 2 
parts Sodium Carbonat in 10 parts of water 
(heat may have to be used to dissolve it). 
Pour the second solution into the first. The 
result resembles a miniature snow storm. 

Sodium Carbonat and Strontium Nitrat 
react, forming Sodium Nitrat and Stron- 
tium Carbonat. The latter is not soluble 
in water. 



BOILING WATER WITH ICE. 

This is an old, though very curious and 
interesting experiment, calculated to mystify 
the uninitiated. 

Obtain a Florence flask or glass distilling 
retort and fill it half full of water. Boil 
the water, and immediately on removing the 
flame, cork the flask tightly, and turn it 
upside down. As soon as the steam con- 
denses it will form a partial vacuum over 
the water. It is well known that water 
boils in a vacuum at a much lower tempera- 
ture than is required in the open air, and 
consequently, if the vacuum could be kept 
up, the water would boil long after it was 
removed from the source of heat. But as 
soon as steam is formed, it exerts a pressure 
on the water and stops the boiling. 



If now we place a piece of ice on the top 
of the flask, the vapor or steam will be 
condensed, a vacuum will be formed and 
the water will commence to boil violently 
and will continue to do so until the tem- 
perature of the water in the flask falls be- 
low that at which water boils in a vacuum. 

If the ice be removed before this occurs, 
the vapor will again form, press on the 
water and stop the boiling; but the boiling 
may be renewed by replacing the ice. 




If You Have Never Boiled Water With Ice, Ilere 

Is Your Chance! Next They Will Make Ice-Cream 

on the Gas-Range. 



In performing this experiment, it is well 
to wrap the ice in flannel to avoid the 
dripping of the melted ice. 



HOW TO MAKE, USE AND TEST COAL 
GAS. 

A test tube is half filled with ground 
soft coal, packed loosely. The tube is heated 
and the gas allowed to pass through a 
bottle filled with air. Anything left in this 
bottle will be coal tar. The gas is then 
passed through lime water. If any carbon 
dioxid is present, the lime water will be- 
come jnilky. The gas is then passed 
through the last jar containing red litmus 
solution. This will turn blue in the pres- 
ence of ammonia. 

From the last bottle, the gas may be al- 
lowed to flow through a rubber tube in the 
end of which is a burner. The gas will 



112 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



burn with a yellow flame. Using a 6" x fy" 
test tube, this flame will give about 1 
candle-power. 




We Should Care Now If "It Goes Up!" We WiU 

Make Our Own Gas and Laugh at the 

Consolidated! 



tungsten wire must then be removed. Care 
should be taken to keep the openings at 
the bottom as small as possible. If the bulb 
is now filled with water and quickly in- 
verted, the water will not flow out but by 
slightly tilting it, the water will come out 
drop by drop. This makes a very good 
dropper for use in chemical experiments. 
If a rubber tube is attached as in Fig. 2 
the dropper may be used on any receptacle. 



HOME-MADE GAS GENERATOR. 

A neat and efficient hydrogen gas gen- 
erator from which a supply of gas is avail- 
able at any moment, can be very easily 



DROPPER FROM OLD LAMP BULBS. 

I have found a very good use to which 
old worn out electric bulbs can be put. 
First, the solder is melted from end of the 
base and the small disc is removed. Now, 
by using a little pressure, the entire base 
may be removed. Then, with a piece of 
heavy wire or a nail, the glass post on 
which the tungsten filament is attached, 
can be broken. The glass pieces and 




n 9 .2 



Tf?/sf/e Tube 

Rubber cor As 



, P/pcb cocA 

: 5v Jf 



Su/pbur/c 
/lad 




The Burned Out Bulb in the Laboratory. 
Cheap and Efficient Dropper! 



A Handy Gas Generator Made from Odd Parts 
Found About the Work-shop. 

made of a wide mouth bottle, a test tube, 
two (preferably rubber) corks, a glass 
thistle tube and a wire pinch cock. 

The bottom of a test tube is heated and 
drawn to a point, the point is then nicked 
off with a file leaving a hole large enough 
to loosely admit the lower end of a long 
thistle tube. 

The thistle tube and a delivery tube are 
placed in a two-hole stopper and inserted 
in the test tube. The end of the thistle 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



113 



tube should protrude from the test tube 
about one quarter of an inch. 

The test tube is then mounted in a large 
single hole stopper and placed into the neck 
of a wide mouth bottle. After slipping a 
piece of rubber tubing over the delivery 
tube, the apparatus is ready for use. 

Place lumps of zinc to be acted upon by 
the acid into the test tube as shown. Now 
pour the diluted sulphuric acid (4 parts 
water, 1 part acid) into the thistle tube un- 
til it is full. The acid will soon reach the 
zinc and react with it, giving a steady sup- 
ply of gas. 

By closing the rubber tubing with a pinch 
cock the pressure of the gas in the interior 
will force the acid up the thistle tube, caus- 
ing the chemical action to stop. 



A CHEMICAL SIPHON. 

This will be especially useful to electro- 
chemists for siphoning off liquids from 
gravity batteries, etc. It is easily made by 
heating a glass tube till soft and drawing 
it out until of quite small diameter at the 
bend; it is bent as shown in sketch (aided 
by using a fish tail burner.) 




Simply Bend a Piece of Glass and Presto 1 
Much Desired Siphon Is Ready. 



That 



Its principle of operation is the "ram" 
action. Immersing it, keeping one finger 
closed over one end, and lower it horizon- 
tally into the shallow liquid. Remove finger 
and liquid will rush into tube, its velocity 
being sufficient to carry it up the narrow 
portion marked N, and over the bend. 



SOLUBILITY OF GAS PRODUCES 
FASCINATING EFFECTS. 

A very interesting chemical experiment 
can be performed with the apparatus shown 
in the illustration. A perfectly dry Flor- 
ence flask is used for the upper vessel. It 
is filled with hydrogen chlorid gas, which 





r ^r-J " 


* 








y /^^'"x 




















j rq\v\ 








1 


' I 










' & 


\ 












































si?i 


V.-sJ 






















| 






t 


«^ 





The Modern Heron Fountain. A Mysterious Trick 
of Fascinating: Effects. 

is prepared by heating a mixture of moist- 
ened common salt (sodium chlorid) and 
sulfuric acid. The gas is collected by down- 
ward displacement as it is heavier than air. 

This flask is connected by means of a 
glass tube to a similar vessel, which is 
nearly filled with a blue litmus solution. 
This solution is made by dissolving a very 
small quantity of the blue litmus dye in 
water. The end of the tube, opening into 
the upper flask is drawn out, so as to make 
a rather fine jet. All the stoppers are 
fitted tightly 

By blowing into the open tube of the 
lower vessel, a few drops of the liquid are 
forced into the upper flask. The hydrogen 
chlorid at once dissolves, thus diminishing 
the pressure inside the vessel. The blue 
solution then forms a fountain at the jet 
and continues to do so, until almost all the 
chlorid is used up. This gas has also the 



114 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



property of changing blue litmus to red, 
hence as soon as the solution comes in con- 
tact with it, the color is changed immediate- 
ly, thus presenting a very mysterious ap- 
pearance to a novice. 



EXPLOSIVE GAS APPARATUS. 

Having occasion to make hydrogen gas 
to explode in a gas cannon, I thought of 
the following idea: I secured an old show- 
case bulb and broke the tip off. After re- 
moving the filament (B), I fused a piece 
of glass tubing on the bulb, as shown at 
(A). Then I filled the bulb half full of a 
sulfuric acid solution, screwed it in a 
socket, and clamped the whole on the stand, 
as in Fig. 2. By running a piece of rubber 
tubing from the tube to the cannon, I was 
able to get a good explosion. Care must 



I overcame this difficulty by bending the 
tube so as to form a complete loop in it, of 
about three-fourths of an inch. One can 




Place Your Finger in the Loop of This Improved 
Pipette and It Simply Can't Slip from Your Grasp. 

slip a finger through this loop and all danger 
of its slipping is eliminated. The sketch 
represents the improved dropper more 
clearly. 




fig. 2 



Explosive Gas Experimental Apparatus Con- 
structed of Show-case Lamp with Tube Fused 
on Tip End. 

be taken not to disturb the platinum ter- 
minals. 



AN IMPROVED PIPETTE. 

In chemical laboratories the most com- 
monly used dropper consists of a straight 
glass tube. However, if the tube or one's 
hands are wet, the dropper is hard to hold. 



HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL BALANCE. 

The accompanying photo illustrates a 
chemical balance easily constructed. While 
not being extremely accurate it neverthe- 
less will measure quantities to the degree of 
accuracy generally demanded in an ama- 
teur's shop or laboratory. It is not difficult 
to construct and ordinary care being used, 
it can be made to weigh within a gram. 

The illustration is self-explanatory, but 
a few words may not be amiss. To make 
it, first obtain a telephone ringer set as that 
shown in figure. It is not necessary to pur- 
chase a brand new one, but go to some 
electric or telephone repair shop where you 
may secure a ringer for less than fifty cents 
or even for nothing, possibly. Proceed to 
rearrange the different pieces so as to appear, 
after adding other parts, like that shown 
below. On the armature, solder or bolt 
a strip of metal, preferably aluminum, y 2 " 
x 7" and on the ends of this "beam" at- 
tach two circular 4" pans. Below one of 
the pans place a right angle strip and ad- 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Chemical). 



115 



justing screw, In order to be able to make 
pans balance. Back of the instrument, after 
fixing on base, place a strip for an indicator. 




Every Experimenter Needs a Small Balance for 

Weighing: Chemicals On. Here's One Made from 

a Telephone Ringer Frame Fitted With a Set of 

Pans and a Scale. 



Finished with shellac, this instrument 
will make a neat looking and useful little 
piece of apparatus for chemical or photo- 
graphic work. 



SIMPLE TESTS FOR LEAVENING 

CAPACITY AND PURITY OF 

BAKING POWDERS. 

To ascertain the leavening capacity, place 
as many glass tumblers in a row as you 
have baking powders to test. Measure half 
a teaspoonful of each baking powder into 
a tumbler by itself, and fill two-thirds full 
of clear, cold water. Set the tumblers be- 
tween yourself and the light, observing 
which throws off the larger amount of tiny 
gas bubbles. The one that liberates these 
in the greatest abundance, possesses the 
highest leavening power, as these tiny 
globules developing in the dough, cause it 
to rise and become light. 

To test for purity place as many teacups 
in a row as you have baking powders to 
test. Deal a teaspoonful of each into its 



separate cup. Pour a very little boiling 
water from the teakettle into each and in 
about two minutes fill with boiling water. 
After they have stood half an hour to cool, 
pour each into a separate glass tumbler and 
set aside to rest. The baking powders that 
are pure and free from stuffing will be 
completely dissolved and the water will be 
as clear as crystal. The cloudiness and 
precipitate at the bottom of the impure ones 
will tell the amount of adulteration and of 
impurity. The tumbler with its solution as 
clear as crystal contains pure cream of tar- 
tar and no adulterants. The tumblers con- 
taining turbid solutions and yielding small 
precipitates contain little cream of tartar 
but phosphates of calcium and stuffing. The 
tumblers containing very turbid solutions 
and yielding heavy precipitates contain no 
cream of tartar, whatsoever, but plenty of 
alum and stuffing. 

Baking powders containing pure cream 
of tartar are recognized to be the best by 
experts while those containing phosphates 
and alum are regarded to be unwholesome 
and detrimental to our stomachs. 



EXPERIMENT HOW TO MAKE GAS. 

Take some hard coal and grind it up 
fine. Put it in the bowl of a clay pipe and 
put some plaster of Paris over the top to 
seal it. Then put the bowl of the pipe 
over or in the flame of the gas stove. In 
a few moments the gas will be coming 
out of the stem of the pipe and the same 
can be lighted. 



A DOUBLE FLAME LABORATORY BLOW 
TORCH. 

While working in a laboratory last w in- 
ter I frequently needed a blow torch tor 
welding purposes, but as there was none 
in the laboratory equipment I struck upon 
a novel means of making the desired heat, 
I attached a mouth blow pipe to a .mis jet 



116 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



by means of a rubber tube and, turning 
on the gas, held the blow pipe in the flame 
of a Bunsen burner. The gas coming 
through the blow pipe had the desired ef- 
fect upon the Bunsen flame, producing as 
great or greater heat than the average 
blow torch. 




A Double Flame Laboratory Blow ^orch. 



A HANDY SPIRIT LAMP. 

All that is needed to make this useful 
little spirit lamp are: An old ink or muci- 
lage bottle, a wooden cork, a small tube, a 
piece of asbestos and an old lamp wick. 

The cork should be made of hard wood 
and as seen in the diagram should have a 
hole bored through its center. Thru this 
a piece of metal tubing about \y 2 inches 
long is inserted. There should be a notch 
cut in the sid« of the cork to admit air. 



A piece of asbestos should be procured 
(a piece of an old asbestos shingle will do) 
about one inch in diameter with a hole 
bored thru the center to admit the tube. 




Useful Alcohol Torch. 



The wick, which may be flat, should be run 
up through the tube to the desired height. 
Wood alcohol should be used as fuel as 
it gives intense heat and little smoke. 



HANDY POCKET LAMP. 

First obtain a worn out metal magazine 
pencil and remove the center. Next secure 
about 6" of yarn and soak it in melted 
paraffine, take it out and let it become 
thoroly dry. Put it in the pencil case, 
allowing about Y%" to protrude from the 
end. When lighted this will burn steadily 




Pocket Lamp Made From Magazine Pencil and 
Some Cotton Wick. 



for at least five minutes. When it has 
burned out, cut off the end and pull out 
about Y%" more. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Mechanical). 



117 



RELATING TO THE SOLDERING IRON. 

By drilling a hole in the side of a solder- 
ing iron and filling it with solder, splices 
of the open-end style may be soldered with 



Jo/der^ /Hole 


® 


wsmikm 


W/mfo, 


' ^^M 


- 


zg@3g 


-otrf»iK>bKXX^Oyy^y^< 


Open ■ fnd sp//ce 



A Time-Saving: Kink for Rapidly Soldering 

Twisted Wire Joints. A Solder Well Is Formed 

by Drilling: a Hole in the Copper. 



much better results than by using the tip of 
the iron. The iron is heated until the solder 
in the hole melts, then the splice, already 
covered with paste, is pushed into it. This 
makes a very well soldered joint. The hole 



should be about J4"x^". 



A SMALL FORGE FOR THE AMATEUR. 

The construction of a small forge for 
the amateur is very simple. An old granite 



'Asbestos 




Air Tank 



Here Is a Way to Malte a Handy Forge for 
Amateur Shop-work. 



basin from the sink is filled with cement 
and a hole left for the fire box. While the 
concrete is still damp a sheet of asbestos 
is laid around the inside. This is to keep 



the heat in. A small tin funnel is put on 
the inside and the spout arranged to stick 
out underneath. Some rubber tubing is 
connected to this and thence to an old 
gasoline tank under the table through a 
stop cock to regulate the flow of air. The 
other end of the tank is fitted with a tire 
valve and an ordinary tire pump connected 
up as shown. Charcoal or coke may be 
used in this furnace. 



HOW TO CHANGE THE TONE OF ANY 
GONG. 

Take the ordinary gong and cut a deep 
groove or a slot in it with a hack saw and 
it immediately changes the tone to a cow- 
bell. 



A GASOLINE TORCH FOR THE 
EXPERIMENTER. 

A very handy gasoline torch for the ex- 
perimenter's laboratory can be successfully 
and easily built. This torch will develop 
a considerable amount of heat, which is 
frequently needed for certain experiments. 
The burner is made from a piece of brass 
tube, A, as illustrated in illustration. This 
should be y 2 inch in diameter and 2^2 inches 
long, plugged up at both ends, one end 
being drilled and reamed out to 5-16 inch. 
Three rows of holes 1-16 inch in diameter 
are next drilled in the tube as depicted. 
One row is drilled to come directly on top 
and the other two at about 45° from the 
vertical. It is then fitted to a sheet steel 
base, B, by means of the clips, C, C. 
A piece of y%-'mc\\ copper pipe, P, is next 
coiled around the brass tube, A, to form 
the vaporizing coil. This coil should have 
a diameter of about 1 inch. One end oi 
the copper tube is bent around so it will 
point directly into the reamed out hole in 
the end of the brass tube, A. A nipple, N, 
is made by drilling a Vs-inch hole halt way 
thrpugh a piece of brass, topped to lit the 
Vs-iiuh hole. A 1-64-inch hole is then 



118 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



drilled through the remaining part of the 
nipple. The other end of the copper tube 
is connected to the supply tank. 

The distance between the nipple, N, and 
the end of the tube, A, should be only 5-16 
inch. The supply tank can be made from 
a brass tube 3 inches in diameter and 6 
inches long, with the ends sealed by sol- 
dering on two end pieces of the same mate- 
rial. A small cock is provided, which 
is directly connected to the torch. A small 




A Home-Made Gasoline Torch, 

hole is made on the top of the tank to 
allow air entering the interior, in order 
to force the gasoline to the burner. Care 
should be taken in handling the gasoline, 
as it is very inflammable. It will be found 
that the torch will produce a hotter flame 
when the copper coil is quite hot; this is 
due to the fact that the gasoline is more 
readily vaporized and consequently a bet- 
ter mixture is produced. 

In order to start this device vaporizing 
it is necessary at first to warm the coil by 
means of a match, or with a little gasoline 
ignited under the worm. 



FILLING THE FOUNTAIN PEN WITHOUT 
DROPPER. 

Oftentimes a person finds an occasion to 
fill a fountain pen, but he has no dropper 
handy. So here is a little trick to try on 
your fountain pen. 



Take a pin or match, and draw a chan- 
nel out to the edge of the mouth of the ink 
bottle, with the ink. The ink will follow 
this channel, and run into the fountain pen, 
without spilling a drop. 



USE FOR AN ATOMIZER. 

An atomizer is a handy appliance to fur- 
nish a draft of air when drying precipitates 
or evaporating solvents like ether or chloro- 
form. The drying of precipitates and crys- 
tals can best be carried out when same is 
placed on a blotter to help absorb the 
liquid. 



MACHINE OIL. 



A good formula for light machine oil is 
submitted herewith. I have never found this 
oil to gum. Mix 2 oz. sweet or olive oil 
with \y 2 oz. kerosene or coal oil. Then 
add 12 drops oil of citronella. 



SPIRIT LAMP FROM FAN GREASE-CUP. 

A novel but efficient spirit lamp can be 
made from a fan grease-cup when cleaned 
and filled with alcohol and a wick inserted. 






5ma// Dross 
f'tt/ow tube 




Simply Fill a Fan Grease Cnp with Wood Alcohol, 
Insert a Wick in the Hole, and Yon Have a 
Serviceable Little Spirit Lamp for Light Soldering. 

It will burn for one hour. This lamp can 
be used for numerous purposes, such as 
removing enamel from enameled wires, et 
cetera. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Mechanical). 



119 



A small brass tube can be easily soldered 
to the cup for the purpose of providing a 
blast of air and a side-wise concentrated 
flame tip, by blowing through the tube. 
The upper end of the tube must be closed, 
and a tiny hole drilled in it — about No. 64 
drill. 



A HOME-MADE BLOW TORCH. 

A good blow torch for the purpose of 
soldering wire joints and numerous other 
things may be made as follows: Obtain an 
oil can similar to the one shown in the 
sketch with a rather long spout. Cut the 
spout off about half an inch from the top 
of the can. Next curve it as shown and 
attach to the larger end a small rubber 
tubing about 1 J^ feet long. Solder the spout 




Blow Torch Made from Oil Can. 

to the side of the can and pinch the small 
end of it together a trifle, in order to give 
a better draft. Place a wick in the can and 
some alcohol. When using, light the wick 
and blow in the tube, which will produce a 
very hot flame. 



A HOME-MADE GAS TORCH. 

Here is described how to make a gas 
torch. First two pipes arc procured, one 
3/16 and one j4 i ncn m diameter and about 
8 inches long. 



I then drilled a hole in the quarter inch 
pipe and bent it as shown in drawing and 
set the other pipe into it. The handle is of 
oak with the edges rounded and two holes 
drilled through it to fit each pipe. The 
air and gas supply come through rubber 
hoses. A very good air compressor is 















1 






@ s 



To Make This Gas Blow Torch You Will Require 
a Bicycle or Other Small Pump, a 1 to 5 Gallon 
Can, and Two ^Lengths of Rubber Tubing to Lead 
the Gas and Comprest Air to the Torch Handle. 

made out of a bicycle pump and a one 
gallon can; the gas may be taken from the 
gas service pipes or from a carbid gen- 
erator. 



BUNSEN BURNER. 
An old gas burner, the kind that is used 
with a mantle, and which can be purchased 
for a few cents is procured. It is bent in 
the shape depicted in the illustration. By 
wrapping some heavy wire around the tube 
it can be made to stand in an upright posi- 
tion. This burner will take the place of 
those costing 50 cents or more. 



120 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



,{P/P6 




Chech valve 



Air compressor 



Cheap Bunsen Burner Made from Gas Mantle 
Parts and a Piece of Wire, 



SMALL SCREWS. 

The length of the smallest screw ever 
made is .028 of an inch, its diameter .026 of 
an inch, weight .012 of a grain. There are 
360 threads to the inch and it takes 582,333 
of these screws to make a pound. 



A simple Hygrometer, which could fore- 
tell the approach of a rain sixteen to 
twenty-four hours in advance will come in 
quite handy. A description of the instru- 
ment follows: Referring to sketch: S, S' and 
S" form a wooden support. (The experi- 
menter can construct this to suit himself, 
some preferring to make a more fancy one 
than others,) W, is a small, stiff wire, 
about 3" long and attached to a thin piece 
of wood which has been planed down to 3" 
by y?." by 1/16". A cat-gut string is then 
procured — C. (Such as the "A" string on 
a violin.) This string is fastened securely 
at the top of the support, by boring a small 
hole, inserting the string and then plugging 
the hole with a small wooden plug. X' The 
free end of the wire, before described, is 
then bent into a small loop about %" 
diameter and is shown at L. 

Next we thread the string through the 
loop and give it one-half turn around the 
wire. It is then led through the indicator 
"R" by boring a small hole of slightly larger 
diameter than the cat-gut. The hole should 
be bored as near as possible to where the 
wire is secured to the indicator. The cat- 
gut string should now be pulled taut and 
plugged in the bottom of the support at 
"X." 



A HOME-MADE HYGROMETER. 

The Hygrometer, as v/e know, is an in- 
strument for measuring the quantity of 
moisture in the atmosphere. It depends on 
the property possest by some substances, of 
readily absorbing moisture from the air, 
and being thereby changed in dimensions or 
in weight. Of this kind is the Hygrometer 
of Saussure, in which a hair, that will ex- 
pand and contract in length accordingly, 
as the air is more or less moist, was made 
to move an indicator. 





./: 


s* *• 




^^.^sZ^jf 


s, 


1 


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f 


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— ** 


=3z J " 


II ■■■! Ill 1 fllllllMI 


^r x 








it 



A Home-Made "Hygrometer" Constructed from a 

Piece of Suspended Wood, Shaved Down Thin, 

Through Which Buns a Piece of Cat-Gut. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Mechanical). 



121 



A small nail P is then driven into the 
support S to act as a stopping point. Its 
duty is to allow the indicator to swing about 
in one direction only. "Fair" and "Rain" 
may now be painted on the indicator and 
our mechanical weather-man is completed. 

The builder may desire to construct a 
more elaborate support which he can do by 
making a small wooden house and decorat- 
ing it with pieces of bark to give a novel 
log-cabin effect. However, the front must 
be constructed open to allow the indicator 
to swing around. The instrument is then 
placed in some open but sheltered place and 
is ready for use. 

The action is as follows : When the cat- 
gut is taut it exerts a twisting motion on 
the wire and ten'ds to twist the end of the 
indicator marked "Rain" against the stop- 
ping point "P." When there is a great deal 
of moisture in the atmosphere the cat-gut 
string will become slack and allow the end 
marked "Rain" to swing half way around. 

In this way we can all become modern 
weather prophets. 



HOW TO MAKE A HYGROMETER. 

The hygrometer is an instrument to 
measure the degrees of dryness or mois- 
ture of the atmosphere. There are various 
kinds of hygrometers; for whatever body 
either shrinks or swells by dryness or 
moisture, is capable of being formed into 
an hygrometer, such as woods of most 
kinds, particularly ash, deal, poplar, etc. 
The following is the most lasting and con- 
venient mode of construction for an in- 
strument of this description. 

Take a very fine balance, and place in 
it a sponge, or other body which easily 
absorbs moisture, and let it be in equilib- 
rium with a weight hung at the other end 
of the beam. If the air becomes moist, 
the sponge, becoming heavier, will prepon- 
derate; if dry, the sponge will be raised 
up. 



This balance may be contrived in two 
ways, by either having the pin in the mid- 
dle of the beam, with a slender tongue, 
a foot and a half long, pointing to the di- 
visions of an arched plate, fitted on it, or 
the other extremity of the beam may be 
so long, as to describe a large arc on a 
board placed for the purpose. 

To prepare the sponge, it may be neces- 
sary to wash it in water and, when dry, in 
water or vinegar, in which sal ammoniac 
or salt of tartar has been dissolved and 
let it dry again ; then it is fit for use. The 



^3 


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Ef^yyerydamp 


f 


^zJDompweatfier 






K 


6 ^^*^r 


3^^. 


Jft\Drij *eotf}ir 






© ^ 







A Simple Hygrometer Which Can Be Made at a 

Cost of a Few Cents, from a Sponge, a Paper 

Scale and a Lightly Pivoted Lever. 



instrument can be hung against the wall; 
and, in that case a bit of steel, as at "A," 
should be placed before the needle, to keep 
it straight. 



COINS FOR WEIGHTS. 

In an emergency, ordinary coins can be 
used as weights. The weights given in the 
following table are near enough for all 
the usual purposes. 

Dime weighs 40 grains 

Cent weighs 50 grains 

Nickel weighs 80 grains 

One-quarter Dollar weighs 100 grains 

One-half Dollar weighs.. 200 grains 

One Dollar weighs 400 grains 



122 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



By simple addition and subtraction a 
great many different weights can be made 
with these coins. For instance, to obtain a 
weight of 20 grains, place a nickel on one 
side of the scales and a quarter on the 
other, and then add enough of the chemical 
to balance it. 



THERMOMETER SCALES. 

Of the three scales in general use, the 
Centigrade scale [also called Celsius] is 
the most rational one and the one used in 
all scientific research and international 
literature ; it is also used exclusively in most 
of the European countries. The zero point 
is the melting point of ice, and the 100° 
point is the boiling point of water. The 
Fahrenheit scale is used in the United States 
and England ; on this scale the melting point 
of ice is exactly 32°, and the boiling point 
of water is 212°. The Reaumur scale is 
in limited use in Germany; it has the same 
zero point as the Centigrade scale, but the 
boiling point of water on this scale is ex- 
actly 80°. 

TABLE SHOWING THE COMPARISON OF THE 
READINGS OF THERMOMETERS. 



c = 


Centigrade, or Celsius. R 


= Reaumur. 






F = Fahrenheit. 






c 


R 


F C 


R 


F 


30 


— 24.0 


— 22.0 23 


18.4 


73.4 


25 


— 20.0 


— 13.0 24 


19.2 


75.2 


20 


— 16.0 


— 4.0 25 


20.0 


77.0 


15 


— 12.0 


+ 5.0 26 


20.8 


78.8 


10 


— 8.0 


14.0 27 


21.6 


80.6 


5 


— 4.0 


23.0 28 


22.4 


82.4 


4 


— 3.2 


24.8 29 


23.6 


84.2 


3 


— 2.4 


26.6 30 


24.0 


86.0 


2 


— 1.6 


28.4 31 


24.8 


87.8 


1 


— 0.8 


30.2 32 


25.6 


89.6 


reezi 


ag point 


of water 33 


26.4 


91.4 





0.0 


32.0 34 


27.2 


93.2 


1 


0.8 


33.8 35 


28.0 


95.0 


2 


1.6 


35.6 36 


28.8 


98.8 


3 


2.4 


37.4 37 


29.6 


98.6 


4 


3.2 


39.2 38 


30.4 


100.4 


5 


4.0 


41.0 39 


31.2 


102.2 


6 


4.8 


42.8 40 


32.0 


104.0 


7 


5.6 


44.6 41 


32.8 


105.8 


8 


6.4 


46.4 42 


33.6 


107.6 


9 


7.2 


48.2 43 


34.4 


109.4 


10 


8.0 


50.0 44 


35.2 


111.2 


11 


8.8 


51.8 45 


36.0 


113.0 


12 


9.6 


53.6 50 


40.0 


122.0 


13 


10.4 


55.4 55 


44.0 


131.0 


14 


11.2 


57.2 60 


48.0 


140.0 


15 


12.0 


59.0 65 


52.0 


149.0 


16 


12.8 


60.8 70 


56.0 


158.0 


17 


13.6 


62.6 75 


60.0 


167.0 


18 


14.4 


64.4 80 


64.0 


176.0 


19 


15.2 


66.2 85 


68.0 


185.0 


20 


16.0 


68.0 90 


72.0 


194.0 


21 


16.8 


69.8 95 


76.0 


203.0 


22 


17.6 


71.6 100 


80.0 


212.0 






Boiling point of water. 



To convert Centigrade into Fahrenheit: 
Degrees Centigrade multiplied by 9, and 

divided by 5, then add 32. 
Example — 80° C.X9-^-5=144+32= 

176° F. 

To convert Fahrenheit into Centigrade: 

Subtract 32 from the number of degrees 
Fahrenheit, then multiply by 5, and divide 
by 9. 

Example — 100° F.— 32=68x5-^9= 
37.8° C. 

To convert Reaumur into Fahrenheit: 
Degrees Reaumur multiplied by 9, divide 

by 4, and add 32. 

Example — 16° R.x9-^4=36+32= 

68° F. 

To convert Fahrenheit into Reaumur: 
32 subtracted from degrees Fahrenheit, 

multiply by 4, and then divide by 9. 
Example — 95° F.— 32=63-^9X4= 

28° R. 

The above table and formula for convert- 
ing the different degrees to another will be 
found very useful, especially when, for in- 
stance, you have facilities to work with a 
Centigrade thermometer, and the Fahren- 
heit degree is mentioned. 

(See also Appendix.) 






HANDY APPARATUS FORMED ENTIRELY 
OF WIRE. 

As shown in the accompanying sketches 
a number of useful articles of constant 
service to the experimenter may be con- 
structed of ordinary wire with the aid of a 
few common tools. 

Obtain a few feet of galvanized iron wire, 
or if the item of expense is not important, 
brass wire; 3 or 4 gage numbers are re- 
quired, depending upon the size of the 
apparatus to be constructed. 

Provide a pair each of flat, round and 
cutting pliers, some wood sticks about the 
dimensions of a lead pencil, and a few 
short lengths of tubing to aid in bending 
and forming the wire; after a few ex- 
periments you will be able to determine 
the size of the wire best adapted. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Mechanical). 



123 



Cork Puller. 

Figure L — Cut two pieces of wire the 
desired length, twist together and form 
ring. Now twist the four ends to about 
one-third the length of the shank. Make 
separately a ring of sufficient size to fit 
loosely over the shank, cut wires of shank 
to same length and bend ends to a right 
angle about % inch. Slip on the ring 
and spring the four ends apart to keep 
ring in position. The completed article 
will be found of service in removing corks 
which have fallen into the container, and 




Numerous Handy Devices for Holding Test Tubes 

and the Like Can Be Easily Constructed from 

Wire with a Little Ingenuity. 

by placing a piece of cotton in the jaws a 
most useful instrument is formed for the 
cleaning and drying of test tubes. 

Holders. 

Figures 2 and 3. — Follow outline of 
sketch to obtain good results. Twist wires 
together 3 or 4 times, allowing but very 
little play. Bend the four ends at a straight 
angle and form the ring at the end of tool 
by bending wire around a rod of the re- 
quired size. 

Spring Holders. 

Figures 4 and 5. — Use very thick and 
springy wire; will be found of service in 
holding articles to be soldered or ce- 
mented. 



It will be observed from sketch that de- 
vice in figure No. 4 holds by itself, while 
the reverse is true of No. 5 design. The 
ends of these holders can be made pointed or 
flattened as preferred. 

Figure 6. — Holder for rubber tubes. Ob- 
tain a piece of thin wire. First bend it in 
two, making a loop to allow a hook to 
hold it in place. Then wind wire around 
a rod of proper size. Slip tube through 
spiral so formed. This device will not per- 
mit tube to kink or bend at an angle suffi- 
cient to kink or to fracture. 

Figure 7. — Holder for articles to be sol- 
dered or heated. The light pressure ob- 
tained by allowing the straight bend to 
pass a little through the ring will be found 
sufficient to hold the articles in a position 
convenient for operation. 

Figure 8. — Tripod to support retorts. 
This article is formed by twisting three 
wires together forming a stand as shown 
in sketch. 

Figure 9, 10 and 11. — Battery connectors. 
Figure 10 can be fastened to table by put- 
ting a screw or nail through ring at its 
end. In the event of the contact jaws 
becoming loose they can be adjusted by 
drawing the ends closer together. The 
line wires can be soldered to the connec- 
tors, and if desired the connection on 
figure 11 can be covered with insulating 
tape. 

Figure 12. — Very light weights. Each 
bend increases 1 centigram or 1 decigram, 
varying according to the size of wire used. 



MAKING FLEXIBLE-CORD COVERS. 

Cut a strip of cloth, any kind and any 
length, half an inch wide, fold it length- 
wise as in Fig. 1, with the wrong side out 
if there is a wrong side, and sew a line oi 
machine stitch down the side as shown. 
Don't try to sew too near the edge. 

Next, run a piece of stout twine through 
with a tape needle, as shown in Fig. 
When through, gather the upper edge oi 
your cloth tube together, as in Fig, 3, and 



124 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



tew it to the piece of twine. Don't try to 
tie your twine, as that makes rather too 
large a knot to start through easily. 

Now hold the other end of the twine in 
one hand (or if your tube is very long, tie 



tailor had got the seam inside. Recogniz- 
ing my old process, I was explaining it to 
her, when the boss came in and bet me a 
dollar I couldn't do it. The girl made the 
tube, I ran the string, manipulated a sec- 



it to a door-knob) and with the other hand ond > and "ft*!" thru it went, like a rat 

two jumps ahead of the feline. The boss 
handed over his dollar, while the stenog- 
rapher said something which in polite 
ladies' language is equivalent to — "Well, 
I'll de d— d> 




Pst: An Alcove Secret: A Friend TeUs Us How 
the Tailors Got the Seam Inside. 

work the puckered end down inside, with 
a motion like pulling on a glove-finger, 

(Fig. 4). Once started, there is not 
the slightest difficulty. 

Fig. 5 shows the end of the operation, 
with the completed tube coming through, 
right side out, with the seam concealed, and 
with the extra flap serving to stuff the tube 
and make it plump and round- The con- 
ductor, composed of a dozen braided wires 
from your old Ford secondary, is run 
through with the tape needle, and there 
you are. Cost per yard, exactly S0.00. 

I have a particular affection for this in- 
vention because I had a dollar on it once 
— about the only dollar I ever did wring 
from Science. The stenographer was aim- 
ing to replace a broken belt-loop on her vel- 
vet coat, and was stumped to know how the 



HOW TO DRAW LINES WITH WRITING 
PEN. 

Those who have tried to draw straight 
lines with a writing pen and rule, nine times 
out of ten have obtained an unsightly blot 

for their labors. 




To Draw Straight Tines Is >~ot So Simple a 

flatter as Ton Thinh, but with a Tittle Kelp 

You WiU Soon Attain Perfection 

Xeat and clean-cut lines may be drawn 
with the use of the following device. The 
thickness of the lines will depend on the 
kind of pen points used. The guide arm 
(A) may be constructed of brass, although 
steel is preferable in this case. The band 
(BD) should be made of spring steel, a 
piece of spring of an old clock would be 
sufficient. All that is required of the ma- 
terial would be that it should hold its form 
and not be easily bent. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Mechanical). 



125 



A rivet is flxt to hold the guide arm and 
band together. Make a dent with a center 
punch above the rivet both in the arm and 
band to hold the former in place, as in the 
case of the extension or commonly called 
zigzag rule. No dimensions are given, 
although for an ordinary pen-holder (A) 
could equal 3-16", B=%", C=l/ 8 ", 
D=y 2 ", and XY=iy 4 ". 

A desirable feature of the device is that 
the guide arm may be folded so that the 
pen may be dipt in the ink bottle as shown 
in Fig. 1, and in that position it can be used 
as a clip to hold it in the pocket also. The 
band may be constructed in any design suit- 
able to the maker. 



DRILLS MADE FROM NEEDLES. 

Having occasion to use many small drills, 
and not wishing to incur the expense of 
continually repairing old ones, I used the 
following trick : 

I procured several sewing needles of the 
same diameter as the drill I needed. After 
breaking off the eye, I ground the needle 
slightly flat on both sides of the large end. 
I then shaped the flattened end according 
.to the sketch. These drills will do good 
work and will not break so easily. 



_^_ 



Now Don't Get All Mother's Needles. Remember 

She Has to Darn Your Stockings! — And You 

Can't Unscrew This Wood-Screw! 

A WOOD SCREW WHICH CANNOT BE 
UNSCREWED. 

Many times the experimenter has need of 
a wood screw which can be screwed into a 



piece of wood; but cannot be taken out. A 
screw of this kind can easily be made by 
taking an ordinary wood screw and filing 
down each side of the head, as shown in the 
illustration. 

It will readily be seen that while it can 
be screwed into the wood, it cannot be un- 
screwed. 



MAKING THE MOST OF A LITTLE SPACE. 

It is most discouraging to have to 
spend half an hour finding tools and 
impedimenta before starting an hour's 
work in the evening. The remedy is to 
have a place for everything, and keep 
everything in its place. Also, keep them as 
compactly as possible. A good deal of 
extra room can be got out of an ordinary 
cupboard by the exercise of a little inge- 
nuity. Things not often required should be 
kept on the top shelf. Perhaps there is 
still some space to spare. Then tack a 
piece of cloth or a large handkerchief in- 
side the top of the cupboard, and screw in 
a couple of brass screw hooks a few inches 
from the ends. Sew a brass ring to each 
of the free corners of the cloth and you 
have a sort of cradle in which many odd 
things may be suspended by slipping the 
rings over the hooks. 

A dozen wooden soap or sugar boxes, 
stood one above another ill a corner of the 
room, preferably in a recess, will do duty 
for a cupboard. Capital shelves can be 
made inside the boxes, using wood from 
the lids, while the whole structure can be 
effectually disguised during the daytime by 
covering it with a piece of dark colored 
material. Extra room can be made by fix- 
ing hooks to the outside edges of the boxes 
for things that can be hung up, while other 
odds and ends can be dropt into cocoa 
tins and the like tacked to the sides of the 
boxes. 



126 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



TEST CLIP MADE FROM BINDING POST. 

For making contact with insulated wires 
take an old binding post and file the thumb 
screw to a point. Also cut a portion of 
one side out with a hack-saw as shown in 
the drawing. To make contact with an 
insulated wire, simply slip the wire in the 
slit in the side and force the thumb screw 
point through the insulation. This saves 
the time and bother of skinning the wire. 
It also may be used as a helix clip. 




At Left: Standard Lamp Base Fitted 'to Minia- 
ture Lamp. At Right: Handy Test Clip Made 
From Binding Post. 



FITTING A MINIATURE BULB TO 
STANDARD SOCKET. 

First we need a broken Edison bulb, a 
miniature lamp and some sealing wax or 
paraffin. Then break all the glass from 
the bottom of the large lamp base. Now 
solder the two wires from the Edison shell 
to the rim and center of the miniature bulb. 
Heat some sealing wax and pour in around 
the shell and set aside to harden. This at- 
tachment will be useful to anyone who has 
a socket with a snap on the side or a pull- 
chain socket. 



HOW TO TREAT STORED 
ACCUMULATORS. 

Bearing in mind that the result desired is 
always the preservation of the accumulator 
plates, the advice always depends upon 
whether the owner desires to keep his ac- 
cumulator in good condition with as little 
disturbance as possible of its working state, 
or whether he desires to store it for a long 



period of time and does not object to the 
trouble involved in removing the acid and 
refilling again when the battery is to be 
put in use again. 

There are two methods, the dry system 
and the liquid system, the former being the 
better. For the dry system give the battery 
a thoroly good charge in order to bring 
all the plates into a satisfactory state. Then 
remove the acid, fill up again with pure wa- 
ter, discharge the battery for a few hours 
until the voltage has fallen 10 per cent, 
and then immediately empty out the water, 
let the cells drain as much as possible, re- 
move the terminals, wash away any traces 
of acid on the top covers, put a little vase- 
line on the terminal stems and all connec- 
tions, and store in a place free from dust. 

The object of discharging after the water 
has been added is to avoid heating of the 
negative plates when the cells are dry. The 
object of putting water in the cells for the 
discharge is for the purpose of thoroly re- 
moving the acid in the pores of the plates. 
On no account leave the water in the cells, 
whether charged or discharged, as they will 
rapidly sulfate if you do. Advice is some- 
times given to fill cells with water and leave 
it in. This is absolutely wrong. 

The liquid system is as follows: — See 
that the plates are well covered with acid, 
but keep it below the lead connecting bars 
inside the cells. Charge up the battery un- 
til it is thoroly well charged. Remove the 
terminals and vents, carefully clean the 
tops of cells, vaseline all metal parts and 
store in the dark, with protection from dust. 
A periodical charge is beneficial, but not 
always necessary; this depends upon the 
condition of the battery when stored, the 
type of plates, and the amount of loose 
sediment there may be in the cells. If the 
voltage is found to be low after a few 
weeks, it is a sign that the battery requires 
attention. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Mechanical). 



127 



EMERGENCY CORK SCREW. 

Recently I had occasion to open a bottle 
and, not having a cork extractor, very 
simply accomplished my purpose by using 
an ordinary screw eye in combination with 




A Cork Screw in a Jiffy — Simply a Nail and a 
Screw Eye Do the Trick. 

a nail, as shown in the drawing. The use 
of the latter provided a better means both 
for turning the screw and pulling the cork 
out. 



RECIPES FOR KILLING FLIES. 

The United States Government makes 
the following suggestion for the destruc- 
tion of house flies: Formaldehyde and 
sodium salicylate are the two best fly poi- 
sons. Both are superior to arsenic. They 
have their advantages for household use. 
They are not a poison to children ; they are 
convenient to handle; their dilutions are 
simple, and they attract the flies. 

Preparation of Solutions'. — A formalde- 
hyde solution of approximately the cor- 
rect strength may be made by adding 3 
teaspoonfuls of the concentrated formalde- 
hyde solution, commercially known as for- 
malin, to a pint of water. Similarly, the 
proper concentration of sodium salicylate 
may be obtained by dissolving 3 teaspoon- 
fuls of the pure chemical (a powder) to 
a pint of water. 



A container such as shown below has 
been found convenient for automatically 
keeping the solution always available for 
flies to drink. An ordinary, thin-walled 
drinking glass is filled or partially filled 
with the solution. A saucer, or small plate, 
in which is placed a piece of white blot- 
ting paper cut the size of the dish, is put 
bottom up over the glass. The whole is 
then quickly inverted, a match placed under 
the edge of the glass, and the container is 
ready for use. As the solution dries out 
of the saucer the liquid seal at the edge of 
the glass is broken and more liquid flows 
into the lower receptacle. Thus the paper 
is always kept moist. 

Other Simple Preventives'. — Any odor 
pleasing to man is offensive to the fly and 
vice versa, and will drive them away. 

Take five cents' worth of oil of lavender, 
mix it with the same quantity of water, 
put it in a common glass atomizer and 
spray it around the rooms where flies are. 
In the dining-room spray it lavishly even 
on the table linen. The odor is very dis- 




When the "Fly Season" Is With Ua, tho 
Non-Poisonous (to Humans) Wet Blotter Fly 
Annihilator Shown, Which Is Recommended by 
the U. S, Government. Should Trove Particularly 
Valuable. 



agreeable to flies but refreshing to most 
people. 

Geranium, mignonette, heliotrope and 

white clover are offensive to Hies They 

especially dislike the odor of honeysuckle 
and hop blossoms. 



128 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



According to a French scientist, flies have 
intense hatred for the color blue. Rooms 
decorated in blue will help to keep out the 
flies. 

Mix together one tablespoonful of cream, 
one of ground black pepper and one of 
brown sugar. This mixture is poisonous 
to flies. Put in a saucer, darken the room 
except one window and in that set the 
saucer. 

To clear the house of flies, burn pyre- 
thrum powder. This stupefies the flies, but 
they must be SWEPT UP and BURNED. 

Recipes for Stables, Barns and Out-of- 
doors: — Borax is especially valuable around 
farms and out-of-doors. One pound of 
borax to twelve bushels of manure will 
be found desirable as a poison without in- 
juring its manurial qualities on farm stock. 
Scatter the borax over the manure and 
sprinkle with water. 

Lye, chlorid of lime, or copperas (sul- 
fate of iron) dissolved in water, crude car- 
bolic acid, or any kind of disinfectant may 
be used in vaults. 



A HOME-MADE CARBON CRUCIBLE. 

It is often that the experimenter desires 
to melt a small quantity of metal and 
mould it into a certain shape, or he might 
want to mix a special amalgam. But he is 
stopt by the lack of some suitable container 
or crucible; and he does not want to buy 




Make Your Own Crucibles and Build an Electric 
Furnace to Make Diamonds. 



one. Herewith are given the directions for 
making a crucible that will stand a very 
high temperature. 



From a round battery carbon cut a piece 
\y 2 '' long. From the top drill a %" hole 
134" deep. Round off the bottom and the 
result will be a good carbon crucible. The 
contributor has melted iron in a crucible 
of the above design. By using a dry 
plaster of Paris mould the metal may be 
cast into the desired shape. 



HOLDING ON TO THE SCREW. 

A clever little device has recently been 
put on the market which should save the 
motorist's or electrician's vocabulary of 



QlQ 




eol 



One of the Latest Devices for Mechanics Is an 

Attachment for Holding: On to Small Screws in 

Inaccessible Places. 

swear words from being overworked. The 
device is made of specially tempered 
crucible steel and may be slipt on any 
screw driver. Once in place it serves to 
hold a screw firmly on the end of the screw 
driver till it is well started into its re- 
quired position. 

Such a device should prove particularly 
helpful in fastening parts of machinery 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Mechanical). 



129 



which are hard to get at and which require 
the use of small sizes of screws. 



A SELF-LEVELING MEASURING SPOON. 

A set of measuring spoons with a 
self-leveling attachment is a recently pat- 





A New Measuring Spoon Which Saves Much 
Time and Many Poor Mixtures. It Always Levels 
Off the Spoon Even and Is Graduated as Indicated. 

ented invention which reduces to simplest 
form exact measurements while using the 
fewest possible utensils. 

The set consists of three spoons from 
one-fourth to a teaspoon, all riveted to a 
cleverly contrived bar so that the unused 
spoons form a handle, while the thumb 
easily pushes the bar across the spoonful 
of material, thus securing without using 
another article — usually a knife — the level 
spoonful now specified in culinary recipes 
and other formulae. 



"THE SYNTHETIC PRODUCTION OF 
RUBIES." 

During the last few years, practically all 
of the beautiful minerals of the corundum 
family have been produced synthetically in 
the laboratory. These artificial gems are 
identical in beauty, hardness, and chemical 
composition to those obtained from the 
mines. The accompanying diagram shows a 
furnace commonly used in producing the 
gems. 

The operations are as follows: 

A trace of chrome alum is added to a 
solution of common alum, the chrome alum 
being the coloring constituent. 

Then ammonia is added and a gelatinous 
precipitat of the hydrates of alum and 
chrome is formed. 

This precipitat is filtered off, evaporated 
to dryness and calcined in a furnace at a 
temperature of 1000° F. into an ultimate 
mixture of alumina and chromic oxid. The 





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11 


h 


IP 


8 


hydrogen—**^ 


ill 3 1 ' ' 

'IP 


| Jaimir'H.'frv-r- ^j- O/yyer? 






Wan^ 1 




■S— .... g 








n 



Do You Know Tlmt Rubies Are More Valuable 

Than Diamonds? With TIiIh Furnace You can 

Make 'Em by the round. Don't Forget to Send 

Us a Few Founds! 



130 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



proportion in which these two chemicals 
occur in the ruby are: 

Alumina 98% 

Chromic Oxid 2% 

The mixture is then ground into a pow- 
der and placed in the hopper "A." "B" is 
an electrical tapper which shakes the pow- 
der through the sieve "C" into the tube 
"D." Through this tube the oxygen is 
supplied through the tube "E." The two 
gases are ignited at "F." "G" is a plat- 
form made of a highly refractory substance 
against which the flame strikes and on which 
the ruby is formed in a pear-shaped mass. 
The rate of flow of the powder and the 
temperature of the oxy-hydrogen flame must 
be regulated very carefully. When a head 
of sufficient size has formed the heat is 
gradually lowered so that the gem may be 
free from great stresses. When it has 
cooled, it is broken off the base and sent to 
the cutter who finishes the gem. 

It is important that the ingredients used 
in producing the minerals be of the purest 
obtainable. 



A "COST-LESS" NIGHT LAMP. 

Obtain a small bell-ringing transform- 
er that gives three voltages on the second- 
ary, also a 14 volt Christmas tree lamp. 

Then purchase a wall socket that will 
hold this bulb and connect the wall socket 
to the 14 volt terminals of the transformer. 
Having connected the transformer to the 
110 volt A.C. current, insert the bulb. The 
result is a light that illuminates the whole 
house sufficiently at night. You can operate 
this same bulb every night, all night long, 
for years. The amount of current used 
scarcely causes the meter to move. 



ELECTRIC WARNING FOR POISON 
BOTTLES. 

This instrument is used in two ways as 
follows: The clamps 5 and 6 in illustration 



serve to fasten bottle to avoid its falling 
from shelf, and also to notify an ignorant 
person of the presence of poison. Proceed 
to first construct upright, A, 2" high, \y 2 " 
wide, and ]/ 2 " thick. Fasten block to shelf 
by screw 1. At any height put in binding 
posts on block, as shown in figure. Con- 
struct clamps 5 and 6 out of old clock 
springs heated, bent in above design and 
retempered. These should be constructed 
according to the circumference of bottle, 
leaving J4" between X and Y. 




When the Poison Bottle Is Removed From the 

Contact Strips, They Spring Together, Closing 

an Alarm Bell Circuit. 

Connect spring arms at posts and con- 
nect posts to batteries and warning bell as 
indicated in figures. When at night, any- 
one removes the bottle the springs come 
together and thus make contact accordingly. 
The bell rings as warning of poison. 



THIEF CATCHER. 

Very often people are bothered by noc- 
turnal cherry thieves. Hence this clever 
trap was made by annealing one end of a 
clock spring and puncturing it with two 
screws. Next screw it to a wooden base so 
that the free end is clamped to the base with 
a little pressure. Then screw a piece of 
metal on the base so that the spring rests on 
it. The spring and metal are connected so 
as to close a bell circuit. A small block of 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Electrical). 



131 



non-conducting material is placed between 
the spring and metal contacts and a thread 
tied around the block, so that the pulling 
of the thread will pull the block out and 
cause the circuit to be closed. The thread 
encircles the tree and the thief walking into 
it rings the bell. This device costs prac- 
tically nothing and may save many dollars 
worth of fruit and poultry. 



Saw slits- - v 



fuse 



fnds bent 




Renewable Fuse Easily Made. 



A HOME-MADE PUSH-BUTTON. 

Below is a description and illustration 
of a home-made push-button. 




fig j, 



Connections 
Hoilor screfffoMdMenonffll! 
fig. 2 



Here's a Nifty Brass Push Button Made from the 
Shell of a Discarded Lamp Socket. 



The top part of an old electric lamp 
socket is used for the case, as shown in Fig. 
1, and the assembled button is shown in 
Figs. 2 and 3, which explain themselves. 



bent in and in this manner the caps are 
fastened permanently to the fiber tube. The 
asbestos filling is removed and the tube 
cleaned out. 

To renew such a fuse it is only necessary 
to run a length of wire of the proper size 
through the tube and bend the ends of the 
wire around the ends of the tube, thus mak- 
ing connection to the brass caps. When the 
fuse blows the melted metal will not spat- 
ter, since it is confined by the tube. Corks 
may be placed in the ends of the tube to 
prevent undue splashing of the hot metal, 
but one of them should have a V-shape slot 
cut in the side to act as a vent for the gases. 



ELECTRIC BREAD RAISER. 

A box of suitable size is fitted with air 
tight cover and a 32 candle-power carbon 
lamp screwed in the bottom of the box. The 
shelf that the bread rests on is made of 



A SIMPLE RENEWABLE FUSE. 

Amateurs utilizing large amounts of cur- 
rent usually have trouble with their fuses 
blowing out. A method that makes this 
occurrence less expensive is to make use 
of the so-called renewable fuses. 

Cartridge fuses may easily be arranged 
so that new pieces of fuse wire may be 
put in very easily. A fuse of the proper 
size as regards the clips is obtained and 
the brass caps slit with a saw as shovvn in 
the illustration, thus cutting the ends of the 
caps into four pieces. The pointed ends arc 




Pen of 
bread 



An Electric Bread Baiter — Simply PUMM a M C. T\ 

Incandescent Lamp Under the Tan of Broad and 

Walch the Result*. 



132 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



slats, spaced about two inches apart. This 
is done to allow the heat to radiate freely 
in the box, when the bread is placed in it. 
The method has worked out well. 



D is a wing nut and screw, which can 
be clamped to keep the piece C at its ad- 
justed angle. 

The old brush is laid on as shown at E, 
and C adjusted to the nearest angle. The 



TELL-TALE FOR REFRIGERATOR DRIP 
PAN. 

This tell-tale for an ice box drip-pan con- 
sists of a piece of hard wood or fiber cut 
into the form (A). A piece of No. 14 cop- 
per wire is bent into the form (C). This 
form is allowed to turn on pivot (E) , which 
is a current carrying part of the circuit. 
When the pan is full of water, the form 
(C) floats up by means of a piece of wood 
(cork is good) attached to the end. The 
copper wire makes contact with (D), and 
the bell rings, indicating that the pan is 
full. The notch (B) makes it possible to 
take the device off when emptying the pan. 




Simplicity Is Stamped All Over This Home-made 

Refrigerator Drip-pan Alarm. It Costs But a 

Few Cents to Make and WiU Save Your Carpets 

and Hard-wood Floors. 




A Time-saving Carbon Brush Facing Device. 

file is placed on B. The new brush is held 
against B bearing against the file. This 
device roughs out the brush to approxi- 
mately the right shape. The clamp strip A 
may be graduated to correspond with dif- 
ferent angles. 

After beveling off the brushes in this 
way to approximately the correct angle, 
they are placed in the brush holders and 
shaped to fit the commutator curve accu- 
rately by pulling a piece of sand-paper back 
and forth under the brush. Hold down 
on both ends of the sand-paper — not up. 



POISON PREVENTER. 

The following will be found a useful 
prevention from taking poison by accident: 
In the cork of the bottle insert some pins 
so that they extend above the cork slightly 
and are thus exposed. Cover the cork with 
these except a small space so that the fingers 
can hold the cork without being pricked. 
The idea is that when a person takes hold 
of this bottle in the dark they invariably 
will be pricked by the pins, which warns 
them that the bottle contains poison. 



DEVICE FOR SHAPING NEW BRUSHES 
FOR COMMUTATORS. 

The drawing shows a simple device for 
shaping new brushes for commutators of 
motors and dynamos. The strip A is fasten- 
ed to the board B, while piece C is hinged 
to B. 



TO POISON RATS. 

Mix together 2 ozs. of carbonat of bar- 
ytes with 1 oz. of lard and lay it in their 
way. Also put a dish of water near, as it 
causes great thirst and as soon as they drink 
they die instantly. 



LABORATORY HINTS AND EXPERIMENTS (Electrical). 



133 



SIMPLE CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER. out to the binding posts and connected to 

Small nails are driven in a board one- the 110 mains. This is a fine heater, heat- 
half an inch apart and connected together ing the iron in \ J / 2 to 2 minutes and will 

last a long time if properly handled. 



Ull 




Simplest Circuit Interrupter Formed of a Ring 

of Nails, Against Which a Brass Spring Mounted 

on a Crank Is Turned. 



by wire. A crank pivoted in the center has 
a spring brass strip soldered to it. On turn- 
ing the crank fast or slow, the circuit is 
interrupted. 



ELECTRIC SOLDERING IRON HEATER. 

The tube here shown is made of sheet 
iron or steel bent around a 1^4 -inch pipe. 



z I oyer j *24 4S ff German silver mre 
Tude 4f ' /or?g 




Electric Heater for the Soldering Iron, Compris- 
ing a Metal Tube Wound with Several Yards oi 
Resistance Wire. 



Remove it and bend up the edges about j4 
inch to hold on the winding and insula- 
tion. First wind two layers of mica around 
the tube, then one layer of No. 24 German 
Silver resistance wire, then two more lay- 
ers of mica and another layer of wire. The 
total length of wire is 45 feet or so, as 
found by experiment. These arc brought 



CONVERTING ELECTRIC FAN INTO 
BUFFER AND GRINDER. 

An ordinary electric fan may be easily 
converted into a buffer or grinder by drill- 
ing both ends of the armature with a num- 
ber 6 drill, then tap it with a *4-inch ta P- 

Take two pieces of ^-inch round iron, 4 
inches long, and turn down about 1 inch 
on one end so as to cut a J4~i ncn thread. 




Converted Fan-Motor Serving as Buffer and 
Grinder. 

The ^4-inch end is to fit in the armature 
shaft. On the other end a J^-inch thread 
is to be cut to take buffer and lock nuts. 
Two set screws are used on each side to 
keep buffer and wheel from loosening. The 
same work is performed on the other end 
of the shaft or an emery wheel may be used. 
This makes a very handy machine, suitable 
for grinding, buffing and polishing small 
instrument parts. 




How Motor Shaft In Extended by Threaded See 
Uoiih at Either End. 



y 



134 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



AN ELECTRIC GAS LIGHTER FOR THE 
"LAB." 




® 



This Electric Gas Lighter Will Be Found a 
Distinct Convenience in Every Shop and Eabora- 
tory. Use an Iron Core Inductance On A. C. 
Circuits and a Resistance Coil On D. C. Circuits. 



An electric gas lighter is not only a ne- 
cessity but a convenience, especially in la- 
boratories and such places, where gas is 
turned on and off at frequent intervals. 
The sketch shows how one was construct- 
ed with a few tools and in a very short 
length of time. The casing (F) is of 
hard rubber or fiber sawed as shown in 
sketch; the bushings (E) and (E') are also 
hard rubber or fiber, but can be made of 
impregnated hard wood. Spring (C) is to 
keep the movable electrode separated from 
the stationary electrode (A) ; (D) is a 
clamp around the movable electrode to hold 
the spring in its proper place. 



The wires leading to the line and in- 
ductance are flexible cords and may be 
brought out to small terminals on the side 
of the casing. 

The inductance can be varied by the 
number or turns required for different cy- 
cles ; the inductance used by the writer was 
obtained from an old A. C. arc light but 
one may be easily constructed by winding 
a number of turns of wire around a soft 
iron core. 



A SIMPLE TROUBLE LAMP. 

Described below is a plan of a very 
simple trouble lamp. 

As you will see by looking at the sketch, 
the bulb is connected to a round-head screw, 
which makes contact with the wire which 
runs into a hole in the handle. The socket 
for the bulb is made by winding wire 
around its base, and tacking each end to 
the handle. The push contact is made from 
a short piece of thin brass. 




To battery 



A Wooden File Handle, a Battery Lamp, and Some 

Wire— You Then Have a Handy Trouble Lamp. 

A Push Button Can Be Added if Desired. 






Miscellaneous Formulas. 



MARKING POISON BOTTLES. 

A very convenient way to mark bottles 
containing poisons so that they can readily 
be distinguished in dark rooms or closets 
is to cut a piece of heavy, coarse sand-paper 
the size of the top of the cork and paste or 
glue the piece on the top of the cork or 
stopper of the poison bottle. As one's hand 
invariably comes in contact with the top of 



Sondpaper 




Take a Disc of Sand-paper or Emery Paper and 

Glue It on Top of Your Poison Bottle Cork— 

a Cheap Yet Efficient Marker Which You Can't 

Miss in the Dark. 



the cork in opening a bottle, this simple de- 
vice will prevent mistaking a bottle con- 
taining poison for another. 



into all the vessels of the body and you can 
thus preserve cats, dogs, birds, fish, etc. 



FULMINATING POWDER. 

Mix together in a warm mortar one part 
of saltpeter, two parts sulfur. Place on the 
edge of a fire shovel and hold over the fire. 
It will turn black and explode with a loud 
report. 



TO RESTORE THE ELASTICITY OF 

RUBBER. 

Immerse the article in a mixture of water 
of ammonia, 1 part, and water 2 parts until 
the object recovers its former smoothness. 



NO-GLARE HEADLIGHTS. 

Paste a piece of ordinary paraffin paper 
on the inside of the glass. A light so fixt 
is lawful and gives a good driving light. 



TO REMOVE PAINT. 

To remove paint without leaving any 
traces use ether on a piece of cheesecloth. 



TO PRESERVE DEAD PETS. 

One lb. of dry sulfate of aluminum, one- 
fifth of a quart of water and twenty grains 
of arsenous acid, well mixed. Inject this 



LITMUS PAPER. 

This paper is prepared by boiling litmus, 
and steeping the paper in the liquid ; this 
paper turns red when touched by acids. 



ROSEWOOD COLOR 



Boil in y 2 gallon of water, 1 pound loe- 
wood chips and J^ pound red sandalwood. 
Apply to the wood, then go over it with a 
mixture of asphaltum and turpentine. 



8- 



135 



Appendix. 



— — — ~ - ■»-—— — | ............. ^J v^. ...v^..- 

Hydrochloric ' .' ! '. '. '. '. '. '. '. \ I bicarbonate of soda, or 
Sulphuric ) m emer g enc y> Plaster c 



POISON ANTIDOTES. 

Poison*. (a) Acids. Antidotes. 

Oxalic Chalk, whiting, or magnesia in water. 

Nitric . 

carbonate or magnesia, chalk 

of the room beaten up in water. 

Carbolic ) White of egg well beaten up with water. A teaspoonful 

Muriatic > of mustard flour in a cup of hot water. 

Nitro-Muriatic ) Very thick lime water. 

Acetic Soap and water, lime, magnesia, milk, oil, thick gruel. 

Carbonic Fresh air, artificial respiration, friction. 

Tartaric Lime water, castor oil. 

Chromic White of egg in water. Mustard flour. 

Prussic Continuous and heavy douches of ice cold water over head 

and back. Mustard plasters on stomach and soles of 

feet. Prevent sleep. 

(b) Metallic Salts. 

Acetate of Lead Sulphate of soda or magnesia. 

Bichromate of Potash Magnesia and chalk. Emetics. 

Nitrate of Silver Common salt in water, followed immediately by emetic. 

Preparations or compounds ) „ T1 . , . ~. , , , , a 

L pi a 4.- f White or egg in water. 1 easpoontul or mustard Hour 

of Chromium, Antimony, > i ?*? ^ v 

r^ ti/t v I in cup or hot water. 

Copper, Mercury, Zinc. . ) K 

(c) Caustic Alkalines. 

p , ( Vinegar in water. Lemon juice. Oil. Demulcent 

q, f drinks. Large doses of milk. 

(d) Vegetable Poisons. 

Ivy Saline laxatives. 

Apply weak lead water and laudanum, or lime water and 
sweet oil; or bathe freely with spirits of nitre. 

Alcohol Strong coffee. Douche. Stomach pump. 

Belladonna Stomach pump. Emetics. Coffee. Artificial respiration. 

Digitalis Stomach pump. Emetics. Tannic acid. Stimulants. 

Mushrooms Stomach pump or emetics. Castor oil. Warmth. Stimu- 
lants. 

Opium, Morphine Stomach pump or emetics, inhale ammonia. Douche. 

Artificial respiration. 

Nicotine Stomach pump or emetics; stimulants, tannic acid. Hot 

applications to skin ; keep patient lying down. 

137 



138 A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 

POISON ANTIDOTES (Continued) 

(e) Miscellaneous. 

_ , -n i t» • ) Plenty of mustard flour in large quantity of hot water. 

Ether, Petroleum, Benzine, f Cold water douches> Fresh air# Prevent absolutely 

Fruit Essence j sleep< 

Arsenic and all compounds. .Stomach pump. Teaspoonful mustard flour in hot water. 

Teaspoonful dialyzed iron mixed with same quantity 
of calcined magnesia every five minutes for one hour. 
Then plenty of oil, or milk. 

Chloroform Stomach pump or emetic. Solution of carbonate of soda. 

Mustard to the heart. 

Coal Gas Mustard to the heart. Artificial respiration. Stimulants. 

Iodine Stomach pump or emetic. Starch. 

Phosphorus (matches) ....Emetic. French oil of turpentine. Copper Sulphate. 

Purgatives. 

Snake Bite Cauterization and ligature. Stimulants. Permanganate, 

liquor potassae, artificial respiration. Ammonia in- 
jection. 

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 
METRIC SYSTEM. 

In place of the complicated English system of weights and measures, chemists now 
use the very simple and convenient metric system. This system is based on the meter, 
which has a length of about 39.37 in. There are three principal units: the meter, the 
liter, and the gram — the units of length, capacity, and weight, respectively. Multiples 
of these units are obtained by prefixing to the names of the principal units the Greek 
words deka (10), hekto (100), and kilo (1,000) ; the submultiples, or sub-divisions, 
are obtained by prefixing the Latin words deci (1/10), centi (1/100), and milli 
(1/1,000). These prefixes form the key to the entire system. 

In the following tables, the abbreviations of the principal units of these sub- 
multiples begin with a small letter, while those of the multiples begin with a capital 
letter. Chemists commonly use c.c. for cubic centimeter. The equivalents in the 
common units in use in the United States are given in connection with these tables. 

MEASURES OF WEIGHT. 

10 milligrams . = 1 centigram (eg) 

10 centigrams = 1 decigram (dg) 

10 decigrams = 1 gram (g) 

10 grams = 1 dekagram (Dg) 

10 dekagrams = 1 hektogram (Hg) 

10 hektograms = 1 kilokram (Kg) 

1,000 kilograms = 1 ton (T) 

1 gram = 15.432 grains Troy or .03527 oz. avoirdupois. 
1 Kilogram = 2.2046 lb. avoirdupois or 2.6792 lb. Troy. 
1 Metric Ton = 1.1023 Ton of 2,000 lbs. 

The gram is the weight of 1 cubic centimeter (c.c.) of pure distilled water at a 
temperature of 4° C. ; the kilogram is the weight of 1 liter (1.) of water; the metric 
ton is the weight of 1 cubic meter (cu.m.) of water at 4° C. 



APPENDIX. 139 

MEASURES OF VOLUME. 

1,000 cubic millimeters = 1 cubic centimeter (c.c.) 

1,000 cubic centimeters = 1 cubic decimeter (cu.dm.) 

1,000 cubic decimeters = 1 cubic meter (cu.m) 

1 c.c. = .061023 cu. inch 

1 cu.m. = 35.314 cu. ft. or 1.3079 cu. yd. 

MEASURES OF CAPACITY. 

10 milliliters = 1 centiliter (cl) 

10 centiliters .....= 1 deciliter (dl) 

10 deciliters = 1 liter (1) 

10 liters = 1 dekaliter (Dl) 

10 dekaliters — 1 hektoliter (HI) 

10 hektoliters = 1 kiloliter (Kl) 

1 liter = 61.023 cu. in. or 1.0567 liquid qt. or .9078 dry qt. 

The liter is equal in volume to 1 cu. dm. 

EQUIVALENTS. 

MEASURES OF LENGTH. 

Metric U. S. Measure 

1 metre 39.3704 inches 

1 decimetre 3.9370 inches 

1 centimetre 0.3937 inches 

1 millimetre 0.0393 inches 

U. S. Metric 

1 yard (3 feet or 36 inches) 0.9143 meters 

1 foot ( 12 inches) 30.40 centimeters 

ENGLISH SYSTEM. 

One United States gallon has a volume of 231 cu. in., and contains 4 qt., or 8 pt. 
The English Imperial gallon contains 277.46 cu. in., hence the English gallon is 
equivalent to 1.20032 U. S. gal. 

A gallon of pure water at 62° F. weighs 133.37 oz. or 58,350 gr. ; hence, 1 pt. of 
pure water at 62° F. weighs 16 2/3 oz., or a little over 1 lb. The measure termed a 
fluid ounce is a measure of volume, and not of weight, and is equal to 1/16 part of 
a pint or approximately the volume of 1 oz. of pure water. 

One fluid ounce is equivalent to 29.57 c.c. and contains 455.86 gr. of water at 
62° F. One gram is equivalent to 15.43 gr., and 1 oz. avoirdupois is equivalent to 
28.34 gr. 

The unit of dry measure is the bushel which contains 2,150.4 cu. in. 

The avoirdupois pound contains 7,000 gr. 

MEASURES OF WEIGHT (AVOIRDUPOIS). 

437.5 grains (gr.) = 1 ounce (oz.) 

16 ounces = 1 pound (lb.) 

100 pounds = 1 hundredweight (cwt.) 

20 cwt., or 2,000 lbs = 1 ton (T) 

T. cwt. lb. oz. gr. 

1 = 20 or 2,000 or 32,000 or 14,000,000 



140 A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 

TROY WEIGHT. 

24 grains (gr.) = 1 pennyweight (pwt.) 

20 pennyweights = 1 ounce (oz.) 

12 ounces = 1 pound (lb.) 

1 lb. = 12 oz. or 240 pwt. or 5,760 gr. 

DRY MEASURE. 

2 pints (pt.) = 1 quart (qt.) 

8 quarts = 1 peck (pk.) 

4 pecks = 1 bushel (bu.) 

1 bu. = 4 pk. or 32 qt. or 64 pt. 

LIQUID MEASURE. 

4 gills = 1 pint (pt.) 

2 pints = 1 quart (qt.) 

4 quarts = 1 gallon (gal.) 

31.5 gallons = 1 barrel (bbl.) 

2 barrels or 63 gallons == 1 hogshead (hhd.) 

hhd. bbl. gal. qt. pt. gills 

1 = 2 or 63 or 252 or 504 or 2,016. * 
1 cubic foot of water at its maximum density 4° C, weighs 62.425 lb. and 1 gal. 
weighs 8.345 lb. 

LONG-TON TABLE. 

16 ounces = 1 pound (lb.) 

112 pounds = 1 hundredweight (cwt.) 

20 cwt., or 2,240 lbs = 1 ton (L.T.) 

COMPARISON OF UNITED STATES AND METRIC SYSTEMS. 

1 c.c. X -0338 = fluid oz. 1 liter X 1-0567 = qt. (liquid) 

1 c.c. X -608 = cu. in. 1 liter X .264 = gal. 

1 cu.m. X 35.315 = cu. ft. 1 liter X .908 = qt. (dry) 

1 g. X -0353 = oz. 1 liter X .0353 = cu. in. 

1 gal. X 3,785 = liter 1 m. X 39.37 = inch 

1 gr. (Troy) X .0648 = gram 1 oz. (Troy) X 31.104 = gram 

1 kg. X 2.2046 = lb. 1 oz. (avoirdupois) X 28.35 = gram 

1 pk. X 9.08 = liter 1 qt. (liquid) X .946 = liter 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 

A mile is 5280 feet or 1760 yards 

A league is 3 miles 

A fathom is 6 feet 

A metre is nearly 3 feet 3% inches 

A hand is 4 inches 

A palm is 3 inches 

A span is 9 inches 

* LIQUID MEASURES. 

A barrel holds 31% gallons 

A hogshead holds 63 gallons 

A tierce holds 42 gallons 

A puncheon holds 84 gallons 

A tun holds : . . 252 gallons 



APPENDIX. 
PER CENT. SOLUTIONS. 



141 



A table giving the weight in grains (avoirdupois) of any chemical substance re- 
quired to make a per cent solution from 1 per cent to 50 per cent based on the weight 
of one gallon of water at 40° F. = 8.33888 lbs. (avoirdupois) or one fluid ounce of 
water weighing 456.03 grains (avoirdupois). 



For each fluid ounce of water take: 
For a 1 per cent solution 4.66 



Gra 



ins 



2 


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3 


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4 


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5 


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6 


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7 


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8 


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(< <( 


9 


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10 


(< 


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15 


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20 


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25 


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30 


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35 


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45 


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<( 


c< «( 



9.38 

14.10 

19.00 

24.00 

29.10 

34.30 

39.60 

45.09 

50.67 

80.48 

114.00 

152.00 

195.44 

245.56 

304.02 

373.10 

456.03 



It should be noted that the above table applies to water; percentage solutions for 
other liquids would necessarily have to be figured on the weight of the particular 
liquid. 

Percentage solutions are also sometimes made up from a saturated base. This 
method is incorrect unless it is so designated in giving the formula, that is, by stating 
in the formula saturated solution base. Such percentages are made by placing in the 
liquid used, more of the chemical than the liquid will carry in solution ; this resulting 
solution is filtered to remove the excess chemical and then used as a base. For 
example, to make a 10 per cent solution, 10 per cent of the base is used and 90 per 
cent of the pure liquid or in other words, 1 ounce of the saturated solution to 9 
ounces of the liquid. 



142 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 
CONVERSION OF MEASURE EXPRESSED IN "PARTS. 



Sometimes a formula in an experiment is expressed in "parts;" for example, a 
formula may read: Use 1 part of nitric acid, 2 parts of potassium bichromate and 5 
parts of water. All that is necessary would be to designate the exact quantity that 
the part represents; then, if one grain for solids and one minim for liquids should 
be used, the above formula would work out as follows: Nitric acid, 1 minim; potas- 
sium bichromate, 2 grains, and water, 5 minims. Of course, this can be multiplied 
to any proportion. 



For further reference the following 


table will also be found very 


No. of 










parts 




Grains 




Minims 


1 




1 




1 


2 




2 




2 


3 




3 




3 


4 




4 




4 


5 




5 




5 


10 




10 




10 


20 




1 scr. 




20 


50 




50 




50 


60 




1 dr. 




1 dr. 


100 


1 


dr. 2 scr. 


1 


dr. 40 min. 


250 


5* 


oz. 32 grs. 


3/2 


dr. 40 min. 


500 


1 


oz. 62 grs. 


V2 


oz. 10 min. 


1,000 


2J4 


oz. 16 grs. 


2 


oz. 40 min. 



useful 



2,500 

5,000 

10,000 



5y 2 oz. 94 grs. 
11*4 oz. 79 grs. 



5 oz. 1 dr. 40 min. 
10 oz. 3 dr. 20 min. 



1 lb. 6^4 oz- 49 grs. 20 oz. 6 dr. 40 min. 



Grams, 

or c.c. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

10 

20 

50 

60 

100 

250 

500 

1,000 

2,500 

5,000 

10,000 



TABLE FOR CHANGING OUNCES AND DRAMS INTO THOUSANDTHS OF A POUND. 



DRAMS 

Ounces 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 

.000 .004 .008 .012 .016 .020 .023 .027 .031 .035 .039 .043 .047 .051 .055 .059 

1 .063 .066 .070 .074 .078 .082 .086 .090 .094 .098 .102 .105 .109 .113 .117 .121 

2 .125 .129 .133 .137 .141 .145 .148 .152 .156 .160 .164 .168 .172 .176 .180 .184 

3 .188 .191 .195 .199 .203 .207 .211 .215 .219 .223 .227 .230 .234 .238 .242 .246 

4 .250 .254 .258 .262 .266 .270 .273 .277 .281 .285 .289 .293 .297 .301 .305 .309 

5 .313 .316 .320 .324 .328 .332 .336 .340 .344 .348 .352 .355 .359 .363 .367 .371 

6 .375 .379 .383 .387 .391 .395 .398 .402 .406 .410 .414 .418 .422 .426 .430 .434 

7 .438 .441 .445 .449 .453 .457 .461 .465 .469 .473 .477 .480 .484 .488 .492 .496 

8 .500 .504 .508 .512 .516 .520 .523 .527 .531 .535 .539 .543 .547 .551 .555 .559 

9 .563 .566 .570 .574 .578 .582 .586 .590 .594 .598 .602 .605 .609 .613 .617 .621 

10 .625 .629 .633 .637 .641 .645 .648 .652 .656 .660 .664 .668 .672 .676 .680 .684 

11 .688 .691 .695 .699 .703 .707 .711 .715 .719 .723 .727 .730 .734 .738 .742 .746 

12 .750 .754 .758 .762 .766 .770 .773 .777 .781 .785 .789 .793 .797 .801 .805 .809 

I 

13 .813 .816 .820 .824 .828 .832 .836 .840 .844 .848 .852 .855 .859 .863 .867 .871 

14 .875 .879 .883 .887 .891 .895 .898 .902 .906 .910 .914 .918 .922 .926 .930 .934 

15 .938 .941 .945 .949 .953 .957 .961 .965 .969 .973 .977 .980 .984 .988 .992 .996 

Left column of figures represents OUNCES. Figures at top of columns represent DRAMS. 

Example: To find decimal equivalent of 4 ounces and 10 drams, take the figures opposite 4 and 
under 10. Result is .289. 

TABLE OF AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHTS. 

16 Ounces 1 Pound 

16 Drains 1 Ounce 

256 Drams 1 Pound 



APPENDIX. 



147 



TABLE OF ATOMIC WEIGHTS 



Names of 
Elements 


Sym- 
bols 


Approxi- 
mate 
Atomic 
Weights 0=16 


Inter- 
national 
Atomic 
Weights 
H=1.008 


Names of 
Elements 


Sym- 
bols 


Approxi- 
mate 
Atomic 
Weights 0=16 


Inter- 
national 
Atomic 
Weights 
H=1.003 


Aluminum 


Al 


27 


27.1 


Neodymium 


Nd 


144 


144.3 


Antimony 


Sb 


120 


120.2 


Neon 


Ne 


20 


20.2 


Argon 


A 


40 


39.88 


Nickel 


Ni 


59 


58.68 


Arsenic 


As 


75 


74.96 


Niobium 


Nb 


93.5 


93.5 


Barium 


Ba 


137 


137.37 


Niton (radium 








Beryllium 


Be 


9 


9.1 


emanation) 


Nt 


222.4 


222.4 


Bismuth 


Bi 


208 


208.0 


Nitrogen 


N 


14 


14.01 


Boron 


B 


11 


11.0 


Osmium 


Os 


191 


190.9 


Bromine 


Br 


80 


79.92 


Oxygen 


O 


16 


16.00 


Cadmium 


Cd 


112 


112.40 


Palladium 


Pd 


106 


106.7 


Caesium 


Cs 


133 


132.81 


Phosphorus 


P 


31 


31.04 


Calcium 


Ca 


40 


40.70 


Platinum 


Pt 


195 


195.2 


Carbon 


C 


12 


12.005 


Potassium 


K 


39 


39.10 


Cerium 


Ce 


140 


140.25 


Praseodymium 


Pr 


140.5 


140.9 


Chlorine 


CI 


35.5 


35.46 


Radium 


Ra 


226.5 


226.0 


Chromium 


Cr 


52 


52.0 


Rhodium 


Rh 


103 


102.9 


Cobalt 


Co 


59 


58.97 


Rubidium 


Rb 


85 


85.45 


Columbium 


Cb 


93.5 


93.5 


Ruthenium 


Ru 


101.5 


101.7 


Copper 


Cu 


63.5 


63.57 


Samarium 


Sm 


150 


150.4 


Dysprosium 


Dy 


162.5 


162.5 


Scandium 


Sc 


44 


44.1 


Erbium 


Er 


167.4 


167.7 


Selenium 


Se 


79 


79.2 


Europium 


Eu 


152 


152.0 


Silicon 


Si 


28 


28.3 


Fluorine 


F 


19 


19.0 


Silver 


Ag 


108 


107.88 


Gadolinium 


Gd 


157 


157.3 


Sodium 


Na 


23 


23.00 


Gallium 


Ga 


70 


69.9 


Strontium 


Sr 


87.5 


87.63 


Germanium 


Ge 


72 


72.5 


Sulphur 


S 


32 


32.06 


Glucinuin 


Gl 


9 


9.1 


Tantalum 


Ta 


181 


181.5 


Gold 


Au 


197 


197.2 


Tellurium 


Te 


127 


127.5 


Helium 


He 


4 


4.00 


Terbium 


Tb 


159 


159.2 


Holmium 


Ho 


163.5 


163.5 


Thallium 


Tl 


204 


204.0 


Hydrogen 


H 


1 


1.008 


Thorium 


Th 


232 


232.0 


Indium 


In 


115 


114.8 


Thulium 


Tm 


168.5 


168.5 


Iodine 


I 


127 


126.92 


Tin 


Sn 


118 


118.7 


Iridium 


Ir 


193 


193.1 


Titanium 


Ti 


48 


♦8.1 


Iron 


Fe 


56 


55.84 


Tungsten 


W 


184 


184.0 


Krypton 


Kr 


83 


82.92 


Uranium 


U 


238.5 


238.2 


Lanthanun 


La 


139 


139.0 


Vanadium 


V 


51 


51.0 


Lead 


Pb 


207 


207.20 


Xenon 


X 


130 


130.2 


Lithium 


Li 


7 


6.94 


Yetterbium 








Lutecium 


Lu 


174 


175.0 


(Neoyetterbiun 


)Yb 


17.? 


173.5 


Magnesium 


Mg 


24 


24.32 


Yttrium 


Y 


89 


SS.7 


Mercury 


Hg 


200 


200.6 


Zinc 


Zn 


65 


M.S7 


Molybdenum 


Mo 


96 


96.0 


Zirconium 


Zr 


90. 5 


90.6 



148 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



TABLE OF THE CHEMICAL ELEMENTS ARRANGED IN THE 
ELECTROCHEMICAL SERIES 



'Metals' 



+ 1. 


Caesium 


2. 


Rubidium 


3. 


Potassium 


4. 


Sodium 


5. 


Lithium 


6. 


Barium 


7. 


Strontium 


8. 


Calcium 


9. 


Magnesium 


10. 


Aluminium 


11. 


Chromium 


12. 


Manganese 


13. 


Zinc 


14. 


Cadmium 


15. 


Iron 


16. 


Cobalt 


17. 


Nickel 


18. 


Tin 


19. 


Lead 


20. 


Hydrogen 


21. 


Antimony 


22. 


Bismuth 


23. 


Arsenic 



24. Copper 

25. Mercury 

26. Silver 

27. Palladium 

28. Platinum 

29. Gold 

30. Iridium 

31. Rhodium 

32. Osmium 






'Non-Metals' 



33. Silicon 

34. Carbon 

35. Boron 

36. Nitrogen 

37. Selenium 

38. Phosphorus 

39. Sulphur 

40. Iodine 

41. Bromine 

42. Chlorine 

43. Oxygen 

44. Fluorine 



Note of Explanation: The above list shows the order in which the elements displace 
one another from their salts. For instance, metallic magnesium will displace hydrogen from 
dilute acids and will also precipitate zinc from a solution of zinc salt. Zinc in turn will pre- 
cipitate iron from iron salts; iron will precipitate copper from copper salts; copper will pre- 
cipitate silver from silver salts, etc In this way, a series has been worked out such that any 
metal in the list will (generally) displace those which follow it, and be displaced by those 
preceding it. 

Secondary reactions sometimes prevent the precipitation of the metal, but in many cases 
the displacement is quantitative. The further apart the metals in the series, the greater trie 
amount of heat liberated when reaction occurs and in general the greater their mutual re- 
activity. 

The metals preceding hydrogen give hydrogen when treated with acids; those following 
it usually do not. 

With the exception of tin, lead and iron, the metals preceding hydrogen are not found 
free in nature, but those following it are. The position of oxygen will make one reason for 
this clear. 



APPENDIX. 149 

TABLE OF BOILING POINT OF VARIOUS COMMERCIAL LIQUIDS 

Liquid Boiling Point Centigrade 

Acetaldehyde 21 

Acetic Acid (Glacial) 119 

Acetic Anhydride 136 

Acetone 56 

Acetophenone (Hypnone) 202 

Amylacetate (Banana Oil) 148 

Amyl Alcohol (Iso) (Fusel Oil) .. 129 

Anethol 235 

Aniline 183 

Anisole 155 

Benzene 80.5 

Benzyl Alcohol 206 

Benzaldehyde (Oil of Bitter Al- 
monds) 179 

Benzylacetate 206 

Brombenzene 155 

Bromoform 151 

Bromstyrene 144 

Carbon Disulphide 46 

Carbon Tetrachloride 76 

Chloroform 61 

Diacetin 260 

Dimethyl Aniline 193 

Diphenyl Methane 263 

Diphenyl Oxide (Geranium Artifi- 
cial) 259 

Ether 34.6 

Ethyl Acetate 77 

Ethyl (Grain) Alcohol 78 

Ethyl Benzoate 213 

Ethyl Bromide 38 

Ethyl Chloride 12.5 

Eucalyptol (Cincol) 176 

Formic Acid 101 

Mercury 357 

Methyl (Wood) Alcohol 66 

Methyl Salicylate (Oil of Winter- 
green) 219 

Nitrobenzene (Oil of Mirbane) . . 205 

Paraldehyde 124 

Phenol (Carbolic Acid) 183 

Pyridine 115 

Safrol 232 

Sulphur Dioxide — 10 

Terpineol 216 

Toluene 110 

Water 100 

Xylene 137 



ISO 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



TABLE OF PRESSURE OR TENSION OF WATER VAPOR AT 
DIFFERENT TEMPERATURES 



Temperature 


Temperature 


Pressure 


in Degrees 


in Degrees 


in Millimeters 


Centigrade 


Fahrenheit 


of Mercury 





32.0 


4.6 


2 


35.6 


5.3 


4 


39.2 


6.1 


8 


46.4 


8.0 


6 


42.8 


7.0 


10 


50.0 


9.2 


12 


53.6 


10.5 


14 


57.2 


11.9 


16 


60.8 


13.5 


18 


64.4 


15.4 


20 


68.0 


17.4 


22 


71.6 


19.7 


24 


75.2 


22.2 


26 


78.8 


25.0 


28 


82.4 


28.1 


30 


86.0 


31.6 


40 


104.0 


55.0 


50 


122.0 


92.2 


60 


140.0 


149.2 


70 


158.0 


233.8 


80 


176.0 


355.5 


90 


194.0 


526.0 


100 


212.0 


760.0 


110 


230.0 


1075.4 


120 


248.0 


1491. 


130 


266.0 


2030. 


140 


284.0 


2718. 


150 


302.0 


3581. 


160 


320.0 


4651. 


170 


338.0 


5961. 


180 


356.0 


7546. 


190 


374.0 


9442. 


200 


392.0 


11688. 


210 


410.0 


14324. 


220 


428.0 


17389. 


230 


446.0 


20925. 



APPENDIX. 



151 



TABLE OF DENSITIES OF HEAVY 
LIQUIDS. 

(Non-corrosive) 

Specific 

Liquid Gravity 

Carbon disulphide 1.25 

Chloroform 1.47 

Acetylene tetrachloride 1.58 

Carbon tetrachloride 1.60 

Bromoform 2.88 

Acetylene tetrabromide 2.97 

Methylene iodide 3.33 

Methylene iodide saturated with 

iodoform 3i43 

Thallium silver nitrate f 4.5-4.9 

Metallic gallium * 5.95 

Mercury 13.59 

t Melts at 75C. 

* Melts at 30 C. 



FREEZING MIXTURES. 

The low temperatures which can be ob- 
tained by freezing mixtures depend in the 
main upon the heat of solution of salts in 
water. When salts are dissolved, just as 
when liquids are evaporated, heat is used 
up through the doing of work. This causes 
with vapors, gas pressure, with solutions, 
osmotic or solution pressure. The quicker 
the solution of the salt results (as the 
quicker the evaporation of a fluid) the 
greater is the absorption of heat or lower- 
ing of the temperature. Therefore such 
salts are employed for freezing mixtures 
as corrtpletely and quickly dissolve, and 
they are accordingly rapidly mixed in a 
pulverized condition with the water (or 
snow). If ice or snow or salts containing 
water of crystallization are used, the effect 
is still greater because then heat is com- 
bined through the transition of the water 
from the solid to the fluid state. 



Lowering of Temperature with Water-Sail 
and Snow-Salt Mixtures. 

(The amounts stated are only approxi- 
mate but sufficiently exact for practical 
purposes. ) 



And the 








parts 








by weight 








below 


The temperature 


It the salt are mixed 




(Centigrac 


e) 


used is w ith 




will sink 




100 parts 








of water 










From To 


Or 


Crystallized alum . . 14 


10.8 C 


' 9.4° 


1.4° 


Sodium chloride 








(salt) 36 


12.6 
14.7 


10 1 


2.5 
3.0 


Potassium sulphate 12 


11.7 


Crystallized sodium 








phosphate 14 


10.8 


7.1 


3.7 


Ammonium sulphate. 75 


13.2 


6.8 


6.4 


Crystallized sodium 








sulphate (Glauber's 








Salts) 20 


12.5 


5.7 


6.8 


Crystallized magnesium 








sulphate (Epsom 








Salts) 85 


11.1 


3.1 


8.0 


Crystallized sodium 








carbonate 40 


10.7 


1.6 


9.1 


Potassium nitrate 








(Nitre) 16 


13.2 


3.0 


10.2 


Potassium chloride . 30 


13.2 


0.6 


12.6 


Ammonium carbonate 30 


15.3 


3.2 


12.7 


Crystallized sodium 








acetate 85 


10.7 


—4.7 


15.4 


Ammonium chloride 








(Sal Ammoniac) 30 


13.3 


—5.1 


18.4 


Sodium nitrate (Soda 








Nitre) 75 


13.2 


—5.3 


18.5 


Crystallized sodium thio- 








sulphate (Hypo) ..110 


10.7 


—8.0 


1S.7 


Potassium iodide . . . 140 


10.8 


—11.7 


22.5 


Crystallized calcium 








chloride 250 


10.8 


—12.4 


23.2 


Ammonium nitrate 60 


13.6 


—13.6 


27.2 


Ammonium 








sulphocyanate .... 133 


13.2 


— 1S.0 


31.2 


Potassium 








sulphocyanate .... 150 


10.8 


—23.7 


34.5 



If 100 Parts of Snow at — 1°C. are Mixed 
With 



Parts of 

10 Potassium sulphate 

20 Crystallized sodium carbonate 
13 Potassium nitrate (Nitre) . 
30 Potassium chloride 



The Tempera- 
ture win become 
Centigrade 

— 1.9° 

- 2.0 

— 2.8S 

—10.9 



25 Ammonium chloride (Sal Ammoniac) . . — 15.4 

45 Ammonium nitrate — 16.75 

50 Sodium nitrate (Soda Nitre) — 17.75 

33 Sodium chloride — 21.3 

143 Crystallized calcium chloride 

CCaCla+2H a O) —SO 

Solid carbon dioxide | ether — 100 



1,52 A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



w -S «« 

QO «j ,-, "w "T3 

C aj ™ — ' ? i— — i fcl < 

a> ^ •« -S h 5 p « 

H** s d — c •- "S^ w 5 

•-> s * 2 ^ * w ° 



< 



ftf 2? .3 

fen's y «j3 o- 

Oqu i-J -cou 3 — 

| s e s « "-Ss",^ .i is 

§8§ I |.ss .|!l|It £ ||»l s 

B s 4 I s - 1 g-s 3 |atSg|-g|| a « 

O Q w co^ ^ 

5 S,-a E 2 is 8 .2 

•uj c — * ^ • « r: c 3 

•jw "^ «« => O C <u O £ 

.B ■§ S « H I 



APPENDIX. 153 

RULES RELATIVE TO THE CIRCLE, ETC. 

To Find Circumference 

Multiply diameter by 3.1416. Or divide diameter by 0.3183. 

To Find Diameter 

Multiply circumference by 0.3183. Or divide circumference by 3.1416. 

To Find Radius 

Multiply circumference by 0.15915. Or divide circumference by 6.28318. 

To Find Side of an Inscribed Square 

Multiply diameter by 0.7071. Or multiply circumference by 0.2251. 

Or divide circumference by 4.4428 

To Find Side of an Equal Square 

Multiply diameter by 0.8862. Or divide diameter by 1.1284. 

Or multiply circumference by 0.282 L Or divide circumference by 3.545. 

SQUARE— 

A side multiplied by 1.1442 equals diameter of its circumscribing circle. 
A side multiplied by 4.443 equals circumference of its circumscribing circle. 
A side multiplied by 1.128 equals diameter of an equal circle. 
A side multiplied by 3.547 equals circumference of an equal circle. 
Square inches multiplied by 1.273 equal circle inches of an equal circle. 

To Find the Area of a Circle 

Multiply circumference by one-quarter of the diameter. 
Or multiply the square of diameter by 0.7854. 
Or multiply the square of circumference by .07958. 
Or multiply the square of y 2 diameter by 3.1416. 

To Find the Surface of a Sphere or Globe 

Multiply the diameter by the circumference. 

Or multiply the square of diameter by 3.1416. 

Or multiply four times the square of radius by 3.1416. 

To Find the Weight of Brass and Copper Sheets, Rods and Bars 

Ascertain the number of cubic inches in piece and multiply same by weight per 
cubic inch. 

Brass, 0.2972. 

Copper, 0.3212. 

Or multiply the length by the breadth (in feet) and product by weight in pounds 
per square foot. 

USEFUL RULES. 

To find the area of a triangle, multiply the base by one-half the perpendicular 
height. 

To find the area of a trapezoid, add the two parallel sides together and multiply 
the sum by half the perpendicular distance between them. 

To find the area of a regular octagon, multiply the square of the diameter of the 
inscribed circle by the decimal .828. 

To find the area of a regular hexagon, multiply the square of the diameter of 
the inscribed circle by the decimal .866. 

To find the area of a circle, multiply the square of the diameter by the decimal 
.7854. 

To find the area of the section of a flat bar, or the area of a rectangle, multiply 
the width by the thickness. 

To find the number of cubic inches in any bar, multiply the area of its section in 
inches by its length in inches. 



154 



A THOUSAND AND ONE FORMULAS. 



PROPERTIES OF METALS. 



Names of Metals Specific 
Gravity 

Copper 8.94 

Silver 10.5 

Gold 19.26 

Aluminum 2.56 

Zinc 7.13 

Platinum 21.5 

Iron 7.84 

Nickel 8.82 

Tin 7.30 

Lead 11.4 

German Silver 8.5 

Antimony 6.72 

Manganese Steel 7.8 

Mercury 13.6 

Bismuth 9.8 



Relative 
Resistance of Wires 

100 feet long 
weighing 1 pound 


Relative 
Resistance 
of Equal 
Volume 


Pounds 
Atomic in ten 
Weight ten 


Deposited 
hours by 
Amperes 


1.00 


1.06 


63.4 


.2636 


1.113 


1.00 


108. 


.8980 


2.203 


1.27 


197. 


.5460 


.526 


1.95 


27. 


.0569 


2.732 


3.74 


65.2 


.2710 


13.62 


6.02 


197. 


.4145 


5.33 


6.46 


56. 


.0776 


7.69 


8.28 


58.8 


.1222 


6.75 


8.78 


118. 


.2453 


15.55 


13.05 


207. 


.4303 


12.16 


13.92 






16.69 


23.60 


122. 


.1863 


34.82 


42.43 






89.76 


62.73 


200. 


.8315 


89.92 


87.23 


210. 


.3492 



SPECIFIC GRAVITIES OF METALS. 



Specific 

Names of Metals gravity 

Aluminum, cast 2.5 

Aluminum, hammered 2.67 

Antimony 6.702 

Arsenic 5.763 

Barium 4. 

Bismuth 9.822 

Cadmium 8.604 

Calcium 1.566 

Chromium 7.3 

Cobalt 8.6 

Copper 8.895 

Copper, rolled 8.878 

Copper, cast 8.788 

Copper, drawn 8.946 

Copper, hammered 8.958 

Copper, pressed 8.931 

Copper, electrolytic 8.914 

Gold 19.258 

Iron, bar 7.483 

Iron, wrought 7.79 

Steel 7.85 

Lead 11.445 

Magnesium 2.24 

Manganese 6.9 

Mercury 13.568 

Nickel 7.832 

Platinum 20.3 

Potassium 865 

Silver 10.522 

Sodium 972 

Strontium 2.504 

Tin 7.291 

Zinc 6.861 







Melting point 


Weights per 


Specific 


Fahrenheit 


cubic foot 


heat 


in degrees 


156.06 


.214,3 




166.67 






418.37 


.050,8 


810. 


359.76 


.081,4 


365. 


249.7 






613.14 


.030,8 


497. 


537.1 


.056,7 


500. 


97.76 







455.7 







536.86 


.107 





555.27 


.095,1 


1,996. 


554.21 






548.59 






558.47 






559.25 






557.52 







556.46 






1,202.18 


.032,4 


2,016. 


467.18 


.13 


2,786. 


486.29 


.113 


3,286. 


490.03 


.116 


3,286. 


714.45 


.031,4 


612. 


139.83 


.249,9 




430.73 


.114 


3,000. 


846.98 


.031,9 


38. 


488.91 


.109,1 


2,800. 


1,267.22 


.032,4 


3,286. 


54. 


.169,6 


136. 


656.84 


.057 


1,873. 


60.68 


.293,4 


194. 


156.31 






455.14 


.056,2 


442. 


428.29 


.095,5 


773. 



APPENDIX. 155 

TABLE OF SIZES OF TAP DRILLS 





Tap 


ThreE 


ids 




Drill for 


Drill 


for U. S. Drill for 


Diameter. per inch. 




V Thread 


Standar 


d. Whitworth. 




y* 


16, 


18, 


20 




tfk s 5 2 hi 




ft 




ft 






& 


16, 


18, 


20 




« n *i 














& 


16, 


18 






h hi 




,% 




hi 






u 


16, 


18 






% hi 














% 


14, 


16, 


18 




% $2 $2 




A 




& 






M 


14, 


16, 


18 




ii H H 














& 


14, 


16 






H ii 




ii 




u 






II 


14, 


16 






§i % 














y 2 


12, 


13, 


14 




% M §1 




ii 




% 






a 


12, 


14 






T 7 S 91 




ft 










% 


10, 


11, 


12 




ifi % % 




y 2 




Vz 






ft 


11, 


12 






ft ft 














i% 


10, 


11, 


12 




a* % % 




% 




% 






11 


10 








gi- 














7* 


9, 


10 






ll ii 




ii 




II 






ft 


9 








if 














l 


8 
LUBRICA 




it 




rooLS 


M 






NTS 


FOR CUTTING 1 




Material 




Turning 




Chucki 


ng Drilling 




Reaming 




Tapping, 
Milling 


Tool Steel 




Dry or 






Oil or 


Oil 




Lard oil 




Lard oil 






Oil 




Soap Water 












Soft Steel 




Dry or 










Oil or 




Lard oil 




Lard oil 




S 


oap Water 




Soap Water Soap Water 










Wrought Iron 


Dry or 










Oil or 




Lard oil 




Lard oil 




Soap Water 




Soap Water Soap Water 










Cast Iron 




Dry 






Dry 




Dry 




Dry 




Oil 


Brass 




Dry 






Dry 




Dry 




Dry 




Oil 


Copper 




Dry 






Dry 




Dry 




Mixture 




Oil 


Babbitt 










Dry 




Dry 




Dry 




Oil 


Glass 




Turpentine or Kerosene 












Mixture 


is % 


Crude Petroleum, 


% 


Lard Oil. 


Oil is Sperm 


i or Lard 


Sperm preferable. 


When two lu 


jricants are mentioned the first is prefe 


rable. 











CURRENT REQUIRED BY MOTORS. 



Direct-Current Motors Alternating-Current Motors 

H. P. Single Phase Two Phase (4 wire) Three Phase (3 wire) 





110 V. 


220 V. 


500 V. 


110 V. 


220 V 


. 500 V 


. 110 V. 


220 V. 


500 V. 


110 V. 


220 V. 


500 V. 


1 


9 


4.5 


2.0 


14 


7 


3.1 


6.4 


3.2 


1.4 


7.4 


3.7 


1.6 


2 


17 


8,5 


3.7 


24 


12 


5.3 


11 


5.7 


2.5 


13 


6.6 


2.9 


3 


26 


13 


5.6 


34 


17 


7.5 


16 


8.1 


3.5 


19 


9.3 


4.1 


5 


40 


20 


8.8 


52 


26 


11 


26 


13 


5.5 


30 


15 


6.4 


7Y 2 


60 


30 


13 


74 


37 


16 


38 


19 


8.1 


44 


22 


9.3 


10 


76 


38 


17 


94 


47 


21 


44 


22 


10 


50 


25 


12, 


15 


112 


56 


25 








66 


33 


15 


76 


38 


17 


20 


150 


75 


33 








88 


44 


19 


102 


51 


22 


30 


226 


113 


50 








134 


67 


29 


154 


77 


33 


40 


302 


151 


66 








178 


89 


39 


204 


107 


45 


50 


368 


184 


81 








204 


102 


45 


236 


118 


52 


75 


552 


276 


122 








308 


154 


68 


356 


178 


77 


100 


736 


368 


162 








408 


204 


90 


472 


236 


104 


150 


1,110 


555 


244 








616 


308 


135 


710 


355 


156 


200 


1,474 


737 


324 








818 


409 


180 


940 


470 


208 



This table gives the current taken, at full load, by various sizes of electric motors for 
direct and alternating current at the ordinary pressures of 110, 220 and 500 volts. The current 
taken by direct current motors depends upon the efficiency, and with alternating-current motors 
it also depends upon the power factor. These qualities vary somewhat in motors of different 
make, so the above values must be considered as fair averages. They are useful in making 
wiring calculations, fixing size of fuses, etc. The current given for two-phase motors is the 
full-load current taken in each phase; the current for the three-phase motors is the current 
in each of the three line wires. 



Index 



A Page 

Accidents with Acids 95, 98 

Acid Ink-Eradicator .24 

Acid-Proof Cement 7 

Acid-Proof Table Tops 83, 84 

Adhesive Plaster 48 

Alfenide 38 

Alloys 37, 38 

Aluminum Lacquer 37 

Aluminum Polish 36 

Aluminum Solder 41,42 

Amalgam Receipts 38 

Anti-Corrosive Paint 81 

Antidotes, Poison 137, 138 

Antique Bronze Paint 33 

Appendix 137-155 

Aquafortis Dip 34 

Artificial Amber 11 

Artificial Ivory 11 

Artificial Petrifaction 103 

Artificial Skin 48 

Asphalt Composition 12 

Atmosphere, Composition of 146 

Atomic Weights 147 

Atomizer Use 118 

Automatic Saturator 88 



Barometer 



. 



Baths, Photographic 51 

Belgian Welding Powder 43 

Bell Alloys 39 

Bengal Lights 72, 73 

Black Color for Brass 34 

Black Dip for Brass 34 

Blacking for Harnesses 28 

Blacking of Metals , 30 

Blackings for Shoes and Boots 27 

Black Solder 39 

Blow Torches 115-119 

Blue-Black Coating on Brass 30 

Blue Bronze on Copper 33 

Blue Ink 21-25 

Blue-Printing 56, 57 

Bluing Brass 31 

Bluing Gun Barrels 31 

Bluing Metals 31 

Bluing Silver 32 

Bluing Steel 31,32 

Boiling Points of Liquids 149 

Boiling Water — with Ice Ill 

Boot Blacking 27 

Bouquets 47 

Brass Blacking ...'.!!'.".! 30 

Brass Etching .....! 44 

Brass for Medals 39 

Brass Polish 33 

Brass Signs Etchings 44 

Brass Solder '.39 40 

Bronze Dip , ' 33 

Bronze Etching ....!!!!!!! 44 

Bronze Paint ....'...'.....'.......'. 36 

Bronze Powders .33, 34 

Bronzing Brass 33-36 

Bronzing Compositions 33 

Bronzing Copper 36 

Bronzing Fluids ......-...! 36 

Bronzing Liquids 36 

Bunsen Burner , , ,,,,,, 119 

Burn Salve 48 

Burrctte-PIpette 87 

c 

Cabinet Makers Varnish 80 

Canned Heat 109 

Cannon Metal 38 

Carbon Brush Plating 64 

Carbon Crucible 128 

Carpet Soap 48 

Carriage Harness Polish 28 

Case Hardening 31 

Casting Solder Bars 43 

Celluloid Cement 7 

Cement for Glass and Porcelain 5 

Cementing Brass letters to Glass 13 

Cementing Brass to Glass B 

Cementing Glass to Glass 6 



Page 

Cementing Glass to Metal 6, 13 

Cementing Metal Letters to Glass 13 

Cements 5-7 

Cements for Work Shop 5 

Centigrade Thermometer 143 

Changing Tone of Gong 117 

Chapter Index 3 

Chemical Balance 114 

Chemical Barometer 89 

Chemical Cement 5 

Chemical Color Changes 108 

Chemical Composition of Atmosphere 146 

Chemical Elements, Tables 148 

Chemical Fire 72 

Chemical Growths 100, 101 

Chemical Hints for Amateurs 98 

Chemical Indicator 109 

Chemical Laboratory Hints and Experiments 87-115 

Chemical Landscapes 100 

Chemical Siphon 113 

Chemical Snow ill 

Chemical Tricks 101-108 

Chilblains Cure 49 

Chinese Fire 67 

Chinese Varnish 80 

Chlorate Metal Powder 67 

Circle, Rules 153 

Circuit Interrupter 133 

Cleaning Brass 44 

Cleaning Compounds 82 

Cleaning Metals 43 

Cleaning Paste 33 

Cliche Alloy 39 

Cock Metal 38 

Coins for Weights 121 

Cold Brazing 39 

Cold Silvering 66 

Cold Soft Solder 40 

Colored Fire 67 

Colored Solutions 152 

Color for Lacquer 35 

Coloring Brass 31,32 

Coloring Steel 30, 31 

Composition of Alloys 37 

Compositions of All Kinds 8-12 

Composition, Welding 42 

Compounds 8-12 

Conversion of Measures 142 

Conversion of Thermometer Scales 122 

Converting Fan into Buffer 135 

Copper Bronzing for Zinc 36 

Copper Etching 44 

Copper Fulminate 68 

Copper Plating 62 

Copper Plating without Electricity 62 

Copper Solder 39,40 

Copper Test 37 

Copying Ink 20 

Copying Process 9, 10 

Cork Puller 123 

Corn Cure 49 

Court Plaster 4 8 

Crystal Trees 1 1 

Current Required by Motors 155 

Cutlers Cement 5 

Cutlery Etching 44 

Cutting Glass 16, 17, 18 

Cutting Glass Bottles 18 

Cutting Glass Tubes 17. 18 

Cymbals Alloy 39 

D 

Dancing Egg ! ^7 

Dark Green Bronze £;» 

Darkroom Lamp ™ 

Dead Black for Brass 80 

Dead Black for Brasswork £* 

Dovolopcrs 

Disappearing Ink ■• 

Disinfectant J-' 

Distilled Water Supplier ■ gg 

Distilling Apparatus ', ,r 

Double Flame Blow Torch '';* 

Drafting Hints H 

Drawing Lines '"* 

Dressing for Tan Shoes - ' 

Drill and Tap Table ' ? 1 

Drilling Glass 10 

157 



158 



INDEX 



Drill Holes in Glass 13 

Dropper 112 

Dull Black on Copper 30 

Dull Brass 33 

Durable Blue on Iron 32 

E 

Ebony Stain 78 

Eikonogen Developer 51 

Electrical Cement 5 

Electrical Conductivity of Alloys 38 

Electrical Laboratory Hints and Experiments 130-134 

Electrical Varnish 80 

Electric Bread Raiser 131 

Electric Film Developer 51 

Electric Gas Lighter 134 

Electric Glass Cutter 16 

Electric Soldering Iron 133 

Electro Zinc Plating 61 

Electrum Alloy 38 

Emergency Blue Printing 54 

Emergency Cork Screw 127 

Enamels for Jewelers 8 

English Ball Blacking 28 

Engraving Glass 13 

Etching for Metals 44 

Etching on Steel 45 

Everlasting Ink 20 

Experimenters Aphorisms 4 

Explosion without Heat 103 

Explosive Gas Apparatus 114 

Explosive Paper 58 

Extracts 49 

F 

Facsimile Rubber Stamp 10 

Fahrenheit Thermometer 143 

Ferrous Developer 51 

Fiery Fountain 103 

Filler for Wood 83 

Finishing Blacking 27 

Finishing Polish 76 

Fire-Cracker 68 

Fire-Proofing Cloth 102 

Fire-Proofing Fabric 71 

Fire-Work 67 

Fire-Work Paper 72 

Flashlight Powder 73 

Flash-Powder Holder 74 

Flexible Cord Covers 123 

Flexible Insulating Mass 8 

Fluorescent Writing 25 

Fluxes, Soldering 41 

Fly Paper 59 

Forge for Amateur 117 

Fortune-Telling Experiment 106 

Fountain Penn Filling 118 

Fountain Pen Wrinkle 22 

Freezing Mixtures 110, 151 

French Boot Blacking 27 

French Polish 76 

Frosting Lamp Bulbs 19 

Fruit Spots Remover 82 

Fulminates 68-71 

Fulminating Powder 135 

Furniture Polish 76 

Fusible Metals 38 

G 

Gas-Generator 90, 92, 93 

Gasoline Torch 117 

German Boot Blacking 27 

German Silver 38 

German Silver Alloys 37 

German Welding Powder 43 

Ghastly Illumination 103 

Gilder's Pickle 36 

Gilding Brass 32 

Glass 13-19 

Glass and Porcelain Solder 40 

Glass Cement 14 

Glass Cleaning Solution 16 

Glass Cutting 13, 17, 18, 19 

Glass Etching 44 

Glassworking 13-19 

Glazier's Solder 39 

Glues 5-7 

Gold Bronze Powder 33 

Gold Colored Lacquer 35 

Gold Fulminate 71 

Gold Ink 20, 22 

Gold Lacquer for Braes 35 

Gold Plating 65, 66 

Gold Rain 67 

Gold Varnish 80 

Gong Metal 38 

Grate Makers Black ..,...., ,..,.. 30 



Grease Remover 

Green Alcohol Light 

Green Bronze 

Green Bronze Dip 

Green Coloring for Brass. 

Green Ink 

Green Stain 

Ground Glass, Imitation 
Grounds for Etching 
Gum 



Page 



102 
34 

33 
32 



Gun Metal 

Gun-Powder 

Gutta-Percha Composition 



.20, 22 
.. 79 
.. 13 
.. 45" 
6 
.. 30 
.. 102 



Hand Electroplating 60 

Hand Grenades 73 

Hard Cement 5 

Hard Fibre Polish 29 

Hard Solder 40 

Harness Blacking 28 

Heavy Liquids, Densities .' 151 

Hectographs 9, 10 

Heron Fountain '113 

Hints for Photo Workers 52 

Horticultural Ink 25 

How to Bore a Hole in Hardened Steel '.'. 45 

How to Count Rapidly Paper 56 

How to Clean Various Articles 82 

How to Cut Brass 45 

How to File Soft Metals 45 

How to Get Rid of Obnoxious Fumes 87 

How to Handle Fire Without Harm 73 

How to Light Without Matches 74 

How to Make a Chemical Garden 100 

How to Make Alloys 39 

How to Make a Solid from Two Liquids 94, 95 

How to Make a Volcano 95 

How to Make Coal Gas ill 

How to Make Gas 115 

How to Make Ice no 

How to Make Paper Transparent 84 

How to Make Water Phosphorescent 94 

How to Make Waterproof Paper 59 

How to Make Your Own Velox Paper 54 

How to Mark Tools 46 

How to Prepare Pure Silver 45 

How to Prevent Lead from Exploding 45 

How to Prevent Rusty Pen Points 46 

How to Print Pictures from Print 54 

How to Remove Various Stains 82 

How to Restore Dull Files 46 

How to Set Off Flashlight Powder 67 

How to Silver Brass Objects 61 

How to Solder Aluminum 4J 

How to Test Arsenic in Wall Paper 59 

How to Touch Water Without Getting Wet 103 

How to Treat Stored Batteries 126 

How to Weld Cast Iron 42 

Hydrochinon Developer 51 

Hydrogen-Sulphide Generator 93 

Hygrometer 120, 121 

I 

Igniting Paper 51 

Ignitionj Powder 67 

Imitation Gold Alloy 39 

Imitation Ground Glass 13 

Impervious Work Tables 83, 84 

Indelible Ink 20, 25 

India Ink 25 

Indicator for Drip Pan 132 

Ink Eradicator , 24 

Ink Eraser 21, 22 

Ink-Erasing Blotter 22 

Ink for Use on Glass 21 

Ink Powder 21 

Inks 20-26 



Ink Thinned 

Innoxious Toy Paint 

Insulating Compound 

Insulating Varnish 

Interesting Chemical Experiments 101-103- 

Invisible Ink 21,24, 

Iridescent Brown for Brass 

Iron Cement 

Iron Developer 

Iron Solder 39, 



Japanese Matches 
Jewelers Enamels 



80 
105 



Killing Flies 127 

Kipp-Generator , ,...., 92 



INDEX 



159 



Laboratory Apparatus Hints • • 

Laboratory Hints and Experiments • » ' 

Laboratory Stunts 101 

Lacquer for Tin Plate 

Lacquer, Ormolu 

Lacquer Varnish 

Leather Belting Cement •••• 

Leather Polishes H-2S3 

Leather Preservative 

Leather Working 2 « 

Lights, Colored 

Liniments *° 

Lining for Plating Tank 

Liquid Glue 

Liquid Japan for Leather •- 

Liquids, Boiling Point 

Liquid Shoe Blacking 

Lithographic Ink 

Litmus Paper 

Lowering of Temperature 

Lubricants for Tool Cutting 

Luminous Pish Bait 

Luminous Ink! 

Luminous Paint 



Page 

96 

-134 

-104 

35 

34 

80 

5 

76 

27 

29 

67 

49 

62 

5 

27 

149 

27 

25 

135 

151 

155 

109 



81 



Machine Oil 118 

Magic Fire Fluid 73 

Magic Ink 24, 25 

Magic Paper 24, 59 

Magic Serpents 72 

Mahogany Restoring 84 

Making Crystal Basket 100 

i Making Lacquer 35 

, Making Mirrors 15 

Marine Glue 6 

j Marine Paint 81 

i Marking Poison Bottles 130, 135 

Mastic Asphalt 12 

■ Mastic Varnish 80 

\ Match Scratch Remover 102 

Measures of Capacity 139 

! Measures of Length 139 

Measures of Volume 139 

Measures of Weights 138 

j Measuring Spoon 129 

; Mechanical Instruments Alloy 38 

, Mechanical Laboratory Hints and Experiments 117-129 

j Mechanics Varnish 80 

- Melting Lead in Paper 103 

• Melting Steel 103 

" Mending Holes in Pots 5 

- Mending Marble 6 

. Mercuric Fulminate 69, 70 

| Metal-Craft 30-46 

I Metallic Trees 101 

| Metal Polish 36 

I Metals, Properties of 154 

I Metals, Specific Gravities 154 

: l Metal Varnish 80 

1 Metal Writing Ink 24 

j' Metric System 138 

Mildew Remover 82 

Miniature Socket " 126 

Mirrors 15 

Mixing of Paints 80 

Moisture Indicator 120, 121 

Moisture Resisting Cement 5 

', Moisture Resisting Glue 6 

I Motors, Current Required 155 

( Moulding Composition 8, 11 

Mysterious Fire 'l08 

Mysterious Smoke Trick 108 



Needle Drills 125 

Night Lamp ........!! 130 

No-Glare Headlights 135 



Oil for Harnesses 28 

Oil Marks on Wall Paper 82 

Oil Varnish \ \ gQ 

Olive Bronze Dip 34 

Olive Green Bronze 34 

Orange Gold Color on Brass 33 

Organ Pipe Metal . . \" 33 

Ormolu Lacquer 34 

Oxidizing Silver 31 



Page 

Pale Lacquer for Brass 35 

Parisien Bronze Dip 33 

Patent Leather Paste 27 

Patina on Brass 32 

Pencils for Writing on Glass 16 

Perfumeiy 47-50 

Petrifying Wood 83 

Pharaoh's Serpent Eggs 75 

Phosphorescent Paint 81 

Photography .....* 51-55 

Photograph Printing 53,54 

Piano Finishing 84 

Pipette 114 

Plaster Casts 11 

Piate Glass Drilling 18 

Plating 60-66 

Platinum Fulminate 71 

Plumbers Solder £9 

Pocket Lamp 116 

Poison Antidotes 137, 138 

Poison Bottles 130, 135 

Poison Bottles Warning 130 

Poisoning Rats 132 

Poison Preventer 132 

Pole Indicators 109 

Pole Test Paper 58 

Pole Varnish 80 

Polishes 76-79 

Polishes for Wood 83 

Polishes, Leather 27, 28 

Polishes, Metal 36 

Polishes, Wood 85 

Polish for Harnesses 28 

Polish for Iron and Steel 30 

Polishing Paste, Glass 13, 33 

Polishing Powder 33 

Porcelain Ink 20 

Practical Chemical Laboratory Devices 87 

Preparation of Blue Print Paper 56 

Preserving Dead Animals 135 

Priming Cap 69 

Properties of Metals 154 

Proper Use of Sulphuric Acid 98 

Push-Button 131 

Pyro Developer 51 

Pyromorphic Carbon 74 

Pyrotechny 67-75 



Quick Bronzing Liquid 36 

Quick Dip for Brass 34 



Radio-Activity in Gas Mantles 

Red Bronze Powder 

Red Gold Coloring Brass 

Red Ink 20, 

Red Lacquer for Brass 

Removing Glass Stoppers 

Removing Hard Rubber Scratches 

Removing Oil Stains from Leather 

Removing Paint 

Removing Rust Spots 

Removing Stains 

Renewable Fuse 

Repairing Test-Tubes • 

Restoring Rubber 

Restoring Shabby Leather 

Restoring Soiled Harness 

Revolver Barrel Bluing 

Rockets 

Roman Gold Plating 

Rosewood Color 

Rosewood Stain 

Rubber Stamp 

Rub-Out Ink 

Rules Relative to the Circle 

Russet Shoe Dressing 

Russian Waterproof Blacking 

Rust Protector 

Rust Remover 

Rust Spot Cleaning 43 



Paints 80-82 

Paint Spots Remover 82 



Salves 

School Ink 

Scintellettes 

Screw Hints 125, 

Sealing Wax 

Self-ShinlBg Blacking 

Shabby Leather Restorer 

shaking Liniments 

Shaping Brushes for Commutators 

Shoe Blacking 

Shop Kinks 

Silica Killing Cement 



96 
33 
32 
25 
35 
16 
11 
28 

135 
44 
78 

131 
15 

135 
28 
28 
31 
67 
65 

135 
78 
10 
23 

153 
27 
27 
46 
82 

, 44 



48 
20 
78 

128 
10 
27 
28 
49 

132 

27 

46 

7 



160 



INDEX 



Page 

Silver Etching 44 

Silver Fulminate 70 

Silvering a Piece of Charcoal 103 

Silver Ink 21, 22 

Silver Plating Brass 61 

Silver Plating Fluid 60, 65 

Silver Plating Glass 61 

Silver Plating Pennies 60 

Silver Plating Powder 65 

Silver Plating Solution 60 

Silver Plating Steel 61 

Silver Plating without Battery 48 

Silver Polish 36 

Silver Rain 67 

Silver Wash 46 

Silver White Bronzing Powder 33 

Smallest Screw 120 

Soaps 47-50 

Solder for Glass and Porcelain 40 

Soldering Fluid 40 

Soldering Fluxes 41 

Soldering Glass ., 14 

Soldering Iron 117, 133 

Soldering Solution 39 

Soldering Wrinkles 41 

Solders 40. 41 

Solidified Alcohol 110 

Solubility of Gas 113 

Specific Gravities of Metals 154 

Spelter Solder 39 

Spirit Lamps 116. 118 

Spontaneous Fire 74 

Spoon Melting in Hot Water 102 

Spring Holder 123 

Stain Removing 78 

Stains 76-79 

Stains Remover 82 

Stamping Ink 20 

Steel Blue 32 

Steel Etching 45 

Steel Grey Bronzing on Brass 36 

Stencil Paint 81 

Stencil-Plate Ink 25 

Stencils for Chemistry Students 8 

Stone Cement 5 

Storm Glass 90 

Stove Blacking 30 

Stove Polish 78 

Substitute for Gold 39 

Substitute for Wax Compounds 8 

Sulphuric Acid, Proper Use of 98 

Sun-Proof Window Glass 13 

Sympathetic Ink 22. 23. 24, 102 

Synthetic Rubies 129 

T 

Table for Converting Ounces and Drams 142 

Table of Alloys 37 

Table of Atomic Weights 147 

Table of Chemical Elements 148 

Table of Colored Solutions 152 

Table of Decimal Equivalents 145 

Table of Densities 151 

Table of Distances 140 

Table of Percent Solutions 141 

Table of Pressures 150 

Table of Solubilities 145 

Tan Shoe Dressing 27 

Test-Clip 126 

Testing Baking Powder 115 

Thermit Experiment 74 

Thermometer Scales 122, 143 

Thief Catcher, Electric 130 

Ticketing Ink 25 



Page 

Tin Plating 65 ' 

Tin Solder 39 

Tintypes Developer 52 

Tool Lubricants 155 

Tool Varnish 8r 

Toy Paint 8 

Transferring Prints 5' 

Transparent for Tools 4 

Trick Paper 5 

Tripod 12: 

Trouble Lamp 13* 

Troy Weight 140 

Turpentine Varnish . . 8«. 

Typewriting Ink 2( 



United States Government Gum I 

Universal Ink 2 

Useful Chemical Hints 9 

Useful Laboratory Information 9 '. 

Useful Rules 15; 

Utilizing Small Space 12 



Vacuum-Filter 87 

Varnishes 80 

Varnish for Leather 21- 

Vanishing Ink 20, 2 1 

Vaseline Harness Composition 2>- 

Violet Ink 2: 



Walnut Stain 7' 

Warts Cure 4! 

Water and Wine Tricks 106, 107, 10b 

Water-Pen 2S 

Waterproof Blacking 27 

Waterproof Cement 5. 9 

Waterproof Compound li 

Waterproof Harness Paste 2- 

Waterproof Oil Blacking 2; 

Waterproof Polish 7» 

Waterproof Varnish 8i 

Water Vapor Pressure 15i 

Wax for Metal Patterns 11 

Wax for Sealing Bottles 11 

Weighing Balance . . . 5i 

Weights 121. 12' 

Weight sand Measures 13' 

Welding 42, 4. 

Welding Cast Steel 42 

Welding Flux 4L 

Welding Powder 42 

Wheel Glass Cutter 17 

White Ink 2G 

White Metal Plating 62 

Wine and Water Tricks 106, 107, 108 

Wire Apparatus 122 

Wire Gauge '. 144 

Wire Holder 123 

Wood Cement 5 

Wood-Craft 83-86 

Wood Polish 76, 77 

Woodscrew Hint 125 

Wood Stains 78 

Wrinkles for Experimenters 99 

Writing Fluid 22 

Writing Ink 20-26 

Writing on Glass 16 



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Zinc Solder 39 



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